OTTO FSTB is pretty much impossible to find anywhere. Stage 2 LTB is a VERY good upgrade. Irish will chime in more on that later I'm sure.

 

I should assume that you've read the stickies/faqs, but anyways:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=378748
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=368622

It should be easier for a donating member, such as yourself, than an ordinary member.
How are you searching? What kind of criteria are you using to search?
Have you tried using the "Advanced Search" function? It enables you to set parameters (post vs. thread, date, generation, subforum, member name, etc.) so you don't get 300 posts that say "RSB."
It's nearly as easy to use as

 

Hey all,

I hope some easy cure can be had for me or that I'm just over reacting, but when I start my maxima that I just bought last week it makes a startup knock noise for just a second or two. It occurs when the car has been sitting for a few hours or so and goes away quickly, when apparently oil gets to it (as far as I can reason).

My question is what would cause this? I've talked to the dealership that sold me this 60k off lease car and am obviously a little troubled, because I've owned a car that did this before and predictably the noise got worse.

Is it possible that there may be a faulty oil filter? I know that some of them have valves that do not allow the oil to drain out when the engine stops running so as to avoid a dry startup. I hope that the dealer can effectively duplicate the sound when I drop it off to have them check on it.

Is this as bad as I think it is? The noise isn't overly loud, but noticeable to me (I'm very picky with my cars). Could it be the lifters filling up with oil? If this car has any lifters? (not overly familiar with maximas) yet..

 

IIRC it actually is the starter motor not "retracting" quickly enough. The way to solve the problem is to replace the starter or open it up and re-lubricate. There's a how-to in here someplace (check the stickies).

 

The first thing you should get, which is the absolute BEST modification you can do in terms of both handling and ride quality, is the SFCs (Truax or Warpspeed).

The Stage 2 LTB is an excellent mod as well. It tightens up the steering response and helps the car sit flatter in turns to some extent, as well as eliminating wheel hop. In alot of cases there are some fitament issues with the LTB2, which is the only downside. I've had to do some minor "customizing" on mine to make it fit.

The FSTB is of marginal use unless you already have everything else.

Also:
- get some poly (Energy Suspension) front sway bar bushings to elimiate a bit of front end slop

- springs and struts, obviously, if you don't already have em.

 

+1 on the SFC's being the first suspension mod to do.

Then maybe LTB's, struts and springs only if you want a lower ride.

 

You should listen to this man, he's pretty much the 5thgen suspension God and knows what he's talking about.

 

Already got tokico/eibachs. This SFC sounds incredible... my only complaint about the maxima has been the soft chassis/handling. Not happy with the suspension crashing and understeer with the pro kit/illminas, although a vast improvement, big bumps KILL ME arrrrgh.

Now how serious is the ground clearance thing.. as I don't want to be peeing myself everytime there is a speedbump.

Also, more scary than smooth speedbumps is that I drive some exceptionally harsh roads at times, huge wells and pothholes so I'm a little nervous. Is this simply a no-can-do as far as the SFC and LTB. My lowered car can make it carefully, very carefully might be pushin it though with the SFC.

I searched Truax both on google and on here... no results is it just me or what ... ..

RSTB worth it? Now that is a non-searched Q lol. I may just have to go with RSTB/FSTB/RSB for now because of the clearance issue. Thanks, sorry bout all the Qs.

 

Irish has Eibachs/Illuminas and an LTB II. I am not lowered and live in Buffalo and I have not rubbed anything anywhere. Eibachs are a modest drop of 1.3 so I would think you would be okay. The threads are in the Group Deal sections and How-To's...I have them at work as links...

 

Anyone know of a solution to my problem?

 

lovely, appreciate it, I'm working on the spam lol bear with.

 

Ok small one, got SS corp BBK (12" rotors)... standard SS lines work fine right? I'm realllly feeling noob about this one.

 

yes, SS lines are always better then rubber.

 

As in the length is ok for aftermarket brakes as well as stock.

 

how hard is it to change out my spark plugs and what type should i get? i have a 2001 max

 

Search, you can use free search by typing in google for instance Spark Plugs site:maxima.org

That will search spark plugs for just this site.

General Consensus from what I have read is NGK Platinums.

 

There is a writeup in here for the VQ30DE-K somewhere under either ignition coils or spark plugs:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=33563

Take a look at the write up and see if that's a job you're comfortable with.

 

I recently bought an 02 SE with an auto transmission and am having it slip from 2nd to 3rd especially when cold. I read the TSB for the valve body and read some threads about the VB mod. I dont really want the jolt during shifting so Id like to stay stock. Im wondering if my problem is related to the VB and Id like to change it out and see. The problem is I cant find the part anywhere online. Is it a pricy part or is it something that I can take out, clean, inspect and replace to solve my problem? What would I be looking for? I already did the flush and still have the problem. The car has ~75K miles on it.

 

This morning the A/C stopped pushing out cold air in my '01 Maxima SE. Air was still coming out however it was very warm. It has 93k miles on it and still runs great. I been reading around that it could be the fact that I ran out of freon. Is this something that I can purcahse at and autozone and do on my own or do I need to take it to a mechanic (any specific kind of mechanic?) to have done?

Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

Today I was on my way to work at the usually 4:40AM and my car decides to throw a check engine light and not rev past 2,300 RPM. Well I thought it could be my oil catch can because I have yet to replace the hose that supposedly melts. I messed with that and it now revs fine and drives fine. I got the code pulled at Advanced Auto and it is P0102 - Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit Low Input.

I have a VAFC-II and was maybe thinking the wiring could be at fault??? I do not think so but am not sure what circut low input is all about. If my maf was shot or blown wouldn't I not be able to rev past 3k?

Also, When people upgrade to the landrover MAF does it come with the sensor inside or is just the housing? Maybe this is a good time to do the upgrade.

 

I've been looking around but haven't been able to come up with the production numbers for 2002-2003 maximas with 6spds. Can anyone help?

 

If anyone can help me out with my situation here http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=528480

That would be awesome

 

Because that's what this thread is for.

 

just to be sure.. SS lines don't need to be modefied to fit aftermarket brakes do they?

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....00#post5717900
hmmm..at least you know the right place.

 

There is condensation building up inside my drivers side headlight. Its been perfectly fine the first couple of months that i've owned the car, but the other day it rained pretty hard and its been fooged up ever since. Any ideas how to keep out the condensation???

 

Stick the headlight in the oven in a pan with a towel on the bottom so no plastic touches metal. Make sure your oven is preheated to 230 degrees stick them in their for aout 15-18 minutes, pull them out and clap were ever the clear part of the headlight joins the dark part

 

Dam i got 120K all my miles and the ac still blows cold as heck, if i was you i would call a local shop and ask how much it is, unless you have previous experience with recharging ac systems i wouldn't do it

 

Take it back to the dealer the car should of come with some 60-90 day warranty or if you bought an extended warranty take it back to the dealer and have them replace it

 

i have a couple of ?'s,first is there a fuel filter on an 02 maxima,second why cant i post a new thread or pm people?

 

Thanks for the reminder.

 

Yes, you have a fuel filter; here is the write-up to replace it: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=314172

Can't post a new thread(not that you need to) or PM people because: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=413179

Don't forget to read the stickies at the top of the page.

 

Originally Posted by Reizy
I recently bought an 02 SE with an auto transmission and am having it slip from 2nd to 3rd especially when cold. I read the TSB for the valve body and read some threads about the VB mod. I dont really want the jolt during shifting so Id like to stay stock. Im wondering if my problem is related to the VB and Id like to change it out and see. The problem is I cant find the part anywhere online. Is it a pricy part or is it something that I can take out, clean, inspect and replace to solve my problem? What would I be looking for? I already did the flush and still have the problem. The car has ~75K miles on it.


I wish I could but I bought the car private party and sure enough the tranny was nice and warm when I bought it and didnt slip. It mostly does it when cold or under load. Has anyone had Nissan service the tranny per the TSB for slip? Did the VB fix the problem?

 

when i post, nothing goes to my subscribed post bin?

 

ok i have 2 questions one is that famous squeak in low rpms.... motor mounts right? should i be woried

2. when i start my car the oil light flickers but oil level is ok ... normal or bad?


thanks in advance
Derek

 

I want to replace my door speakers. I think I have to take off the whole panel for the door. how do I get it off without breaking it?

 

You'll probably need a panel tool to pop the tabs.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=60393

 

Hey guys... I'm going to try and run my amp kit myself... I found this: http://www.vqpower.com/v2/readarticle.php?article_id=9

I was just wondering if you all think that's the best approach or can you suggest something better?

Also, can anyone give me some tips for wiring a Pioneer deck? I bought the Double-to-Single DIN adapter and it comes with a harness, but I need to know which colors match up to where.

 

my car started acting up tonight. i was driving along when the brake and battery lights both went on. a couple of seconds later the airbag light started flashing, then all the gauges went to zero. as this was happening all the lights on the dash dimmed to nothing and my stereo turned off. the car continued running while all this happened. when i got to my in-laws' house a mile later i turned off the car and restarted it twice, but the idle started jumping.

now the car wont' start without a charger/jumper pack and will shut off if i remove the exterior power source.

i am thinking,it's either a really dead battery, or the alternator is not working. any advice?

 

sounds like the alternator.
the battery is only an issue during startup...after that, the alternator provides all the power. since the alternator is bad, the battery isnt charging which is why you cant start it now.