Nope, but there is a "dealer & vendor experience" section of the forum, and if you search and spend enough time on here you will generally come across alot of good reviews & opinions on various products.

 

Hey yall.. I searched and couldn't find. I recently put on tokico illuminas to match my eibach coilovers and to replace my blown stock struts. Since getting new struts handling has gotten amazingly better, but when I hit any significant bumps at more than say 5-10mph I have experience some tramatizing crashes. Twice bolts where even squeaking afterwards. Cringe cringe.. One time I hit a joint on the freeway and it crashed so hard that it literally slung my wiper **** on. Another thing are manhole drains on one side of lanes.. those things KILL me. Arrrr

Thats really really bad and I'm tired of it.. I know everybody on here doesn't have stiff suspension and deal with that.. anything I can do? I want quiet suspension like everybody else. And I'm tired of being paranoid about bumps most people don't even think about. O yeah I run my illuminas on 4 and reducing it to 1 doesn't help. Thanks, please help.

Regaurds

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=449807
Did you trim your bumpstops?
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=291334

 

Can someone help me out here? Im still looking for an answer.

 

The VB mod fixed my problem. My problem was the 1-2 shift more so than the 2-3.

www.maximumtuning.net

If you don't want the jolt, get the stage I.

 

is any certain type of paint needed for this??
also how do u remove them??

 

I just saw this pic on cardomain of a 6th gen convertible whats up with that but it looks like a 2 door.

[http://www.cardomain.com/ride/672142

 

I have a 00 and i was wondering what would i need to do to change them to the 02-03 hid's?

 

you can do...research

 

I used dupli-color universal black, and 2-3 coats of gloss clearcoat.

 

I have a noob question so ill ask here:

I was in the process of putting my stock intake back on and I got close. The MAF has 4 screws that connect it to the stock airbox. I got 3 screws on but theres one thats impossible to reach with your hand. Im thinking the only way to bolt all 4 up is to take the MAF out...is this correct? I heard so many stories of people's MAFs failing so I didnt want to mess around with it unnecessarily if theres no need. How exactly is it taken out? Theres a silver bracket around it and loosens and tightens with a flathead screwdriver...is this the right way to do it?

 

you mean the bolts on the MAF tube?

you can get them all on...use an extension

 

extension? Can you elaborate? I think I know what you mean I just want to clarify

I have absolutely no room to get my hand under...Im thinking I should just take the MAF out?

 

a socket extention

you dont have to remove the MAF from the tube.

you put an intake on...how did you remove it then

 

I have searched the threads, and I do apologize if I've missed it, but...

...my boyfriend and I changed my brakes this weekend - my rotors were warped so we replaced the pads and rotors. The front two wheels, fine, no problem, but the rear two - we weren't able to fully depress the caliper pistons and the new brake pads were too thick to put on with the new rotors. Thankfully, my old pads were in pretty good shape. We replaced everything and then realized, after bleeding the brake lines, that I had no pressure under on my brake pedal. We rebled the system, no result. Did it a third time, including disconnecting the ground from my battery, and the ABS Sensors, and still no luck. We came to the conclusion that the master cylinder was dieing.

Can a master cylinder be killed/die if air is in the lines, the vehicle is driven, and the air gets into the master cylinder? Or was it probably going before, even though I didn't have a single problem before changing my brakes?

Also, anyone having problems completely depressing the rear caliper pistons?

Thanks.

 

the arrow points to where the bolt is that I just cannot reach...I need my hand to atleast put it in its place. I have an extension...

it looks like a lot of extra space but you know how massive the stock air box is...once its in place I have no room

 

remove that tube from the car then attach it to the box. install the box and tube as one piece

 

you need a special tool to compress the rears (due to the e-brake). you might have messed up the master cylinder.

 

You must use a special tool (or needle-nose pliers) to TURN the rear pistons, they don't push in with a c-clamp, instead they are threaded.

As for the bleeding, I HIGLY doubt that it is the master, there is a special order that you must follow in order to bleed the brakes..... Right Rear---Left Front---Left Rear---Right Front. Also keep an eye on the level in the master obviously

 

so I DO have to remove the MAF right? And basically re-attach the MAF to the hose as one piece with the stock air box?

and holy **** I just realized how new looking my popcharger was...now it looks nothing like that

 

thats where you confused me
you remove the MAF TUBE

not the MAF itself (from the tube)

 

haha yea sorry..thanks

 

What is the part number for the 2002 headlight wiring harness im having trouble finding it on the courtesyparts site the re did the site and the search gives 200 results.

 

No I didn't trim the bumpstops.. that would be the issue.. the one mod I haven't done myself this is what I get. Arrrr THanks for the help..

 

call daveb

 

i recently pulled the a/c clutch/pulley and removed a bad bearing similar to the post found here:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=506182

the bearing used in that post however is not the correct size . the bearing i removed is smaller and has the size

50mm outer diameter
30mm inner diameter
15mm width

i can't find this bearing size anywhere... any suggestions ?

the car is a 2000 5sp non-se the ac compressor is unidentifiable by looking at it, i can't seem to find any markings or nameplates

thanks for the help

 

I completely forgot about using that other tool.

As far as bleeding, we did do the RR, LF, LR, RF order, and we disconnected the battery and ABS sensor...but there was also a good amount of fluid leaking from the MC.

If it turns out the MC is good, we'll return the part to the store, (it should be coming in today).

Thanks for the heads up about the rear pistons.

 

Hey there, this noobie question thread is a great idea. I'm the proud owner of a 5th Gen as of February, and just have a coiuple questions I'd like to bounce off the experts:

1) My Bose 6-disc deck is shorting in and out when I hit small bumps; the entire left side speakers (doors, tweets...etc) short on and off. Would this be coming from the deck, and has this ever happened to anyone else?

2) When the temperature gets below about 12-13 degrees C, the CD player skips incessently - to the point where just have to listen to the radio. Ever happened to anyone? The dealership quoted me ~$375 for a new deck including parts and labour.

3) In researching aftermarket decks, I've found that I need some sort of amplifier adaptor in order to power the Bose sound system, is this true? if so, where's the cheapest place to get one?

Thanks for any and all help that can be provided.

 

Happened to all of us. Give it a good slam, or take it in and get it replaced for free under the TSB. Should work ok for a few months, then the problem will return. I just keep giving mine the nudge, and it works fine after that.
Same thing happens here, enjoy the radio while it 'warms' up.


We have a forum dedicated to Audio, check in there for opinions. http://forums.maxima.org/forumdisplay.php?f=25

 

Hi,
I'm new, and I've read the rules and I understand I am not allowed to ask about xenon retrofit due to stealing etc.

However, I am looking to buy a pair of new xenon headlight housing+xenon lights from ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/02-03...36802453QQrdZ1

I want to know: Does this retrofit onto my 2000 Maxima? I am dieing for an answer and I've exhausted my searching and have found no real answers. This type of factory retrofit worked on my 2003 mini cooper and I am very satisfied with that so I'm wondering if I can do this on a 2000 Maxima (which didn't have factory xenon as an option). I got this maxima as a hand me down and I really would love some xenons on it =).

Thank you so much........

 

Hi,
I found out from reading the forums that my front whell bearings are shot(winding noise, clunking on bumps). Nissan near New Orleans charges me 1300 including parts. Im in the Navy so we have a hobby shop on base , I know I can do it my self but im looking for a write up hopefully with pics. They also have the press to put them in, car is 02.
Thanks, Rudy N.

 

I've been researching and researching but cannot find a how to for installing 02 hid's in a 00. Can somebody give me a link to it, pls?

 

So Im think about gettin' the Injen RS intake and the Gready Evo2 exhaust system. Im just wonderin how many extra ponies these mods would get out of my fully stock 2000 max?

 

dont get the Injen...its overpriced and does the same as other intakes
i suggest the one from berk

 

for the Berk Intake. I've had mine for nearly 3 years now and couldn't be happier.

 

i gotta quick question...i changed the bulbs in my fog lights and when i popped my panel i lost some of the screws that screw the panel back and its hangin down a lil....what can i get to screw or put it back 2gether...

 

[QUOTE=NmexMAX]Happened to all of us. Give it a good slam, or take it in and get it replaced for free under the TSB. Should work ok for a few months, then the problem will return. I just keep giving mine the nudge, and it works fine after that. [QUOTE]

Thanks for the info. WHat is this "TSB"?

I'll check out that audio thread.

 

get the tabs from a dealership or use zipties

 

technical service bulletins
nissan sends them to dealership to help them fix common problems
http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/

 

I can't find any info on reproggraming keys. I've found several on programing the key fob but not the keys them selves. I've got an 02' Is there a link or how too I'm over looking? I'm Not in the position to pay $100 bucks for a key right now.