Well I would start searching the org site here for any other instances of this happening and see what the fix was. You may also think about going to your regonal forum (Under regonal>United states the one in Light Blue) and check with orgers there to see who could help you diagnose this or a good shop in your area that would take a serious look and diagnose the issue.

 

^^ go to Autozone and pull the code. Then compare it with the DTC codes in the Sticky in this forum, which will link you to the possible fix.

NEVER believe "the dealer" when it comes to codes and what they mean...

 

I just received new clear corners for my 00 Max and installed them, and after about five days, both rear bumper light bulbs blew (possibly conicedence), and there was condensation in one of the rear side marker light housings. Any particular reason as to why I might have had condensation in one, but not the other? And is it coincedence that both blew? Thanks.

 

are you using stock bulbs, or were they new ones?

condensation is from bad seal on the lens...pretty typical for the cheaply-made clear corners out there. Take some clear silicone and make sure they're sealed up.

 

I'm not sure if they were stock - the ones I moved from front to back (to put amber bulbs in the front under the clears and clears in back under the OEM Red side markers) were new, and the ambers I put in were new, too, just coincedental that they blew at the same time.

I figured it may have been seals, but I would have thought that they all would have turned out having condensation and not just one...looks like I need some silicone.

Thanks, Irish.

 

i just got the car saturday and put a rack of mile on it driving it back to va from md.

1. what does the tranny slip feel like?

2. i have a small whine, sorta like a bearing or something, it goes away most of the time after driving.

3. what has to be done to put the 02-03 hids in the 01? thanks.

4. noobies cant even search this thread, 75 pages is alot the flip thru.

 

1. Automatic?

2. Is it speed-related? Could be bearings, tires, or many other things

3. You need to buy the 02-03 HIDs, the 02-03 wiring harness, and the lower clips. Then you have to find someone who remembers how they wired it all up (there is no how-to posted), or someone willing to send you their instructions. Make sure you take a photo of the RECEIPT when you buy them, or else nobody will help you (there is a serious theft problem with HIDs from Maximas in some areas)

4. This thread is just for noobs to post in and have people answer the questions. I wouldn't really bother searching it for anything. Check out the stickies at the top of the 5th gen forum instead.


Also make sure to visit the DC/VA/MD/NC forum while you're here. Alot of local activity in Va...

http://forums.maxima.org/forumdisplay.php?f=14

 

thanks alot

i have an automatic.

sometimes it shifts a little harder from first to second, but i am not sure if its just torque? im coming from a 92 accord. powwwwwer : )

and the noise can be heard at a stand still and like in a drive thru

 

also im a copier tech so my trunk has a load in it, its not stupid heavy but my rear end seems to be squatin pretty good. should i look into a set of srings and adjustable struts? and set the rear stiffer to resist sagging?

 

Ok guys, noob here with a ?. Maybe silly one, maybe not. I just got an 02 SE after the 90 finally died and I noticed the cooling fans coming on more often than Im used to. Im in the NW and this happens even when the weather is cool (mid 60's). I read the FSM and saw that the fan is designed to come on low at 203 and high at 212 with the thermostat opening at 180. Is it normal for the fans to come on often? They do go on and off and I checked the coolant temp sensor and the relays and all is good. Its just that I dont recall driving any cars that do this when its mild outside. Im not driving crazy (well not too crazy) and the AC is off. Is this normal for the 02?

Oh, and the gauge stays below center.

 

the engine is designed to run hotter than others, my fan comes on quite often when I am idling for a while with no airflow to the radiator.

 

I'm looking to purchase the following for my black 2001 stock Maxima:

- Upper and lower Street Scene mesh grill
- Factory (or well-constructed replica) spoiler

I've never bought any aftermarket (or factory, for that matter) parts before and would appreciate any recommendations for vendors that are reliable and reasonably priced. Thanks in advance.

 

I have a set of used rear Maxspeed springs. They are similar height to stock but a bit stiffer. If you come to the RCP BBQ, I'll bring them and you can have them, I have use for them anymore. The powdercoat is chipping a bit, but they're in ok shape if you throw some paint on them.

Adjustable struts won't really help anything...the adjustment is rebound, not ride height.

 

both can be best found on ebay, frankly.

 

My girlfriend has a 2000 Maxima, 3.0 that occasionally stalls. This usually happens when coming down from 2500+ rpm to stop. The clutch is pushed in while coming to a stop and the engine dies. I've even managed to reproduce occasionally by revving in neutral. Most of the time, the RPM drops down to 500 then recovers. It seems like there is something that is letting the rpm drop lower than it should.

She first noticed this happening when she was getting a CEL, which my scanner read as p0139 (oxygen sensor). I cleared the code and drove the car for a few days. I got it to stall only a few times but the code never returned.

I've read here that p0139 may be a red herring due to # TSB #NTB02051A (MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP ON WITH REAR 02 SENSOR). I'm assuming she should take it in to have the ECM updated. Is this normally free?

Any thoughts on the stalling or p0139 code would be greatly appreciated.
Heyjerr

 

I've had the same problem on and off for months. I think its a bad IACV (Idle Air Control valve) but haven't gotten around to fixing/replacing it. I'm so used to it I blip the throttle a bit coming to a stop without even noticing it now.

 

thats whats up cuz, if i wanted to do it one time and one time only, and im going for performance handling, exit ramp and country back road stuff : ) what would u say i should do?

 

and no, the ECM update will not be free unless you're under warranty. Probably cost $45-90 depending on dealer/hourly charges.

 

Hey Irish hope your well.. havent talk to you an awhile..

But is this a easy fix to do on your own.. I was told to change the 02 Sensors if not i have to change the Cat ... Let me know what ca thing

 

01 Maxine, what susp u running, u got a killer stance. and what lip kit is that?

 

Hey thanks Craigs.. Im running Ksport Pro and also those lips and skirts are part of the AE .. OEM !! baby !!!

 

If it's a bad IACV, shouldn't it throw up a code of some sort?

 

Yeah, I thought that too. But when I checked, there are no vendors selling the top or bottom for my 2001.

 

I have a quick question on PIAA bulbs. My car is stock and I just want to replace my headlight and foglight bulbs with some matching PIAAs to get the HID/blueish look without dropping too much cash. I would appreciate any recommendations on bulbs that are reasonably priced, reliable, and won't burn out too quick. Thanks in advance.

 

no, not necessarily. Not unless it's totally stuck. I think this happens when it gets gunked up and doesn't control idle air correctly, but not bad enough to throw a code.

that's just speculation though.

 

Check out housecors site. Its in the stickies under lighting mods in the FAQ link. I have the link at work computer.

 

Since I can't search the forum...

I know the '00 Engine mounts for AT's can cause problems. Anybody ever just unplug these, and if so, any problems after that?
I ask because when I warm the car...I can hear 1 or 2 loud "tacks" in the 3-5 minutes it takes to completely warm up. I always figured that it was the engine expanding as it got heated, but after I unplugged the front and rear engine mounts...no tack noise. Wondering if I should leave them umplugged...if it won't be a problem. Thanks for the help!

 

Originally Posted by heyjerr
If it's a bad IACV, shouldn't it throw up a code of some sort?

Is this something I can ungunk, or is replacement the only/best option?

 

you can unplug electric motor mounts with no problem.

 

i think i located my noise. it sounds like the belt tensioner pulley. it is very easy to see and rides ontop of the belt. anybody else have that issue. i had the same issue with my 98 passport

 

Hey Craigs.. If you got a winning noise i got the same thing when i got it first replaced.. Try losing up the Tensioner pulley .. i try before but i barely hear it now but i will also loosen it up as well

 

well i havent replaced it yet, i was wondering if i needed to, to fix that sound

 

are those available for purchase.

 

Yeah they are .. Check here this is where i got my deal at ..

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=430568

Jinsu is a pretty cool and he will beat prices if you find them for cheaper

 

http://www.innerbean.com/housecor/

http://www.optionsauto.com/departments.asp?dept=54
If you want to save money, pick up some SilverStars.

 

i meant the lip kit.

 

You know what Craigs..

Im still pretty new to Maintenance etc for the Max's. But i had my Belt replace when it was making a really bad WINNING noise when the engine was cold as well as the weather.. And also notice it was cracking..

Now after i got the belt replace it was too lose and still made the Winning noise so you tighten the Tension on it .. But if its too tight it will make a whistling kind of noise ..

(hope that make sense)

 

I dont think they sell the Anniversary Edition lips or skirts.. you might want to look into getting the Stillen Kit.. Or unless somebody is selling their own AE kit on the Classifieds..

 

they sell them....but keep in mind it's an OEM Nissan part...which means it costs about 10x as much as comparable aftermarket products.

keep your eye on junkyards

 

yea that is true. but most people these days go with the stillen lip it looks 10x better. then the AE kit.