A few weeks ago I had P0174 and P0174, along with 'stumbling' when cold. After reading through posts here, I replaced the MAF.

The stumbling went away, but the SES stayed on. It did not clear after many, many trips.

Last weekend I checkedbooked an oil and sparkplug change at the dealership (yeah yeah... I know. I'm trying to sell the car soon though). They said it wasn't throwing any codes and they cleared the SES.

Two trips later, SES came back on. Got the codes pulled today and it's P0133 and P0430.
I couldn't find any threads relating to getting these two codes together, nor if they could come from replacing the MAF and not flashing the ECM. My guess is bad O2 sensor, but wanted to ask if anyone had this particular combo and what the solution was.

2001, BTW

 

IIRC P0430 is o2 sensor.

 

Now I've seen conflicting things... It's a non-cali '01. Does it have 3 or 4 sensors? And is it just the first one that needs to be replaced?

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...4&postcount=38

 

Cali = 4
Fed = 3

 

Thanks for the find! I'll replace that soon and cross my fingers.

 

i have some general questions: how do you know if yout throttle position sensor is bad?
whats a knock sensor , what it do?

 

tps should throw a code

knock sensor detects knock, and pulls timing until the knock stops.

 

Search.


Took two seconds on google.
http://search.aol.com/aol/search?inv...=what+is+knock

From the results: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_knocking

 

Just got my car back from having the clutch replaced. I was in a time crunch and got reamed accordingly, $1600 for clutch and dual-mass flywheel. I know, that's pretty bad, but the worst is that my car threw a P0021 code (intake valve timing controller, bank 2) a couple of hours ago. It idles just slightly rough, almost diesels when turning off. Could they have just unplugged something??? This is getting a little ridiculous seeing as I've had the car for 1.5 weeks now. Help!!!

 

BTW, I cleared the code and drove it around for a bit, it hasn't resurfaced (I know some codes have to happen on two consecutive trips, so I went for a couple drives). The idle and shutdown issues are still there though...

 

How can you determine if your car is Cali spec by the VIN #?

 

Can anybody answer above? Anyone?

 

i was attempting to change my dome light...didnt go so well...the metal peice that the bulb makes contact with wont go back in tight so theres no bulb in it....thats not the real problem though.....since i tried to replace it my keyless entry wont work....the open/close door button on the side of the door wont work either and the rear defroster doesnt work....im thinking that i may have blown a fuse...but what fuse will affect all of those things...thanks for any help

 

Well you don't list your year in your options, please do that, it will help us out a ton.

I'd start with #12 & #13 though...........

Just look at the fuse panel cover, start off with the ones that the abbreviations might stand for interior or illumination or interior illumination or anything else related to what doesn't work.

 

Does the light come on at all or is there a problem with the abs or tcs system? The light needs to be on in order to read the codes, with the dealers consult tool or manually via consult port & jumper wire.

The sensors can bi a biotch, requiring hammering out. Yes you can make sure there is not metal shavings on the sensor tip or tons of build-up in/on the sensor ring (teeth attached to wheel that the stationary sensor reads)

To replace the sensor it's easiest to remove the hub (Make sure to properly tourqe wheel bearings afterwards!) and hammer it out from the inside. You can download the fsm from phatg20.net or vq35de.com/esm for more info.

 

its a 2000 cali spec gle....everything died after i attempted the dome light....also is there a write up on dome light LED replacement....ive searched with no luck...thanks

 

Went to change my oil on my 2002 Maxima SE and discovered a lot of oil splatter. I checked and the filter did not seem like it is leaking and the drain plug was tight. Has anyone ran into this before, could it be the gasket around the oil pan?

 

Clean the oil splatter up and then check the area a few days later. That should at least eliminate the possibility you simply drove through some oil on the road, plus give you a better idea of where it is coming from should you have a leak somewhere.

 

After doing a bit of research, i decided that i want to drop my 02 Se with eibachs. Been hearing a lot of talk about spring/shock combos, and was wondering if its OK to install the eibachs without upgrading the shocks. I think Housecor (think thats the name) said that aftermarket springs would cause additional wear, and my Max has 72xxx miles on it, but hasnt been driven too hard. Anyone know if this would be ok?

 

It would be OK, but it is not recommended. ^^^

 

Im guessing its not recommended because of the wear to the shocks? Or does it have to do wth ride quality/handling? Eibachs website says its fine, although they do "recommend" purchasing their own shock kits, as expected. Also, while i'm at it, what are the downsides of purchasing a cheap set of new rims as opposed to some of the more expensive ones? Will they dent easily? I just don't see why i would spend an extra 1 or 2 hundred bucks if i like the way the cheap ones look.

 

First off, yes, the 'wear and tear' is what I was referring to.

Next, explain 'cheap' wheels. Entirely. (material, brand, size, etc)

 

Do you mean cheap as in, cheap quality, or price? You can find some really nice wheels that are OEM like 350Z wheels at a good price, but you have to keep looking through the classifieds on this and other websites.

Refer to the Tires and Wheels section and read the stickies.

 

Damn. You always get your post in before me.

 

Cheap wheels tend to be heavier and have a less durable finish.

 

I meant cheap in price. Went to tirerack.com, searched for wheels for my car, and came up with ones that ranged from 150 each to like 900 each. The more expensive ones are from brands like BBS and made of materials like forged magnesium or w/e, and are way out of my price range. Im not too concerned about weight, just wondering if they would be of a substantially worse quality. Ill post brands/size soon as i get back to site

 

Heavy wheels will affect MPG’s, obviously. Stock units are actually fairly heavy.

I paid $275/wheel for my lightweight wheels and they improved my MPG by 12-15%.

 

Maybe ill just look around for used G35/350Z wheels, im sure i could get they would be of decent quality and relatively cheap. Thanks for the help.

 

Heavy wheels also make you slower. By choosing lighter wheels than stock, you may free up some weight from the driveline.

 

Not only feel, they actually make you slower.

 

I saw a set of 350Z wheels go for ~$300 in PA (pick up only). They had the sensors in them that can be sold, and you end up paying very little for a set of 4 wheels if you sell the sensors. Of course those wheels sold quickly. Look around, and read the stickies in the Tires and Wheel section.

 

Look in Auto Trader, or call around to the tire stores to see what they have in the way of factory take-offs.

 

I have 245 45 18s and I have plenty of space (my car is not lowered and I have 1-1.5 inches of space.
I think with 19s you could get the 235 35 19s on no problem and even the 40s. As far as the 45s, they will not look as good and will give you less handling perfomance than the 35 or 40 series tires. Get the

 

2 quick questions that should be easily answered. first one is on an 03 how much should i expect to pay for a stillen classic lip panted and installed?

2nd is when going w/ a HID fog light kit what kit do i need for the 03? h3, h3c mini h3?

 

Whats the difference between a berk and a frankencar intake? They seem to me like theyre pretty much the same.

 

they are pretty much the same.
biggest difference, frankencar isnt made any more.

 

And they are a rare commodity (for those that like them).

 

is a 6 speed transmission from an 02 3.5L capable of being bolted into an 01 3.0L (originally a 4 speed auto) without major mods? how much should i expect to spend on a professional doing the swap?

thanks in advance

 

This is the newbie thread, not the advanced newbie thread.

Heres a link to an AT to 6 speed conversion in a fourth gen. Hope that helps.