5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
11-10-2007, 11:10 PM
#3641
Hey guys, I have a problem, which I didn't search for because I don't know what to search for!! '02 Maxima, 6 speed, 148,000kms... While driving straight, or having the wheel slightly to the left, I hear a sound like a tire rubbing. It's not constant, but only when the wheel goes round, and "hits" a certain spot. I figured it's the tire, but after checking, I didn't notice anything. It's coming from the right side of the car, sounds like the front to me. When I steer to the right a little bit, the noise goes away... What else could it be, if it's not the tire itself? Hard to explain the sound, other than just like a wet tire grinding on a piece of plastic (happened on my Olds) Oh, and the rims and tires are factory, 225/50-17... What could it be, what do I look for, I'm pulling the wheel off tomorrow morning. Thanks for the advice
11-11-2007, 12:29 AM
#3642
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 2
I have a problem with my 01 maxima. When I put my key in to start it occasionally the panel lights will not turn on and all the gauges aren't working either. if I try to start my car like this it will turn over, sputter and die. I'll have to take my key out and retry until the panel lights and gauges respond. Once this happens my car usually starts runs fine.
I have on occasion, had my car die while driving. I'll use my turn signal and my panel lights/gauges will die and my engine sputters out as well. I've change the starter and had the dealership replace the ignition harness. After doing both of those repairs my car seem fine for a week or two and then it's back to the same crap. Has anyone had anythin similar?
I have on occasion, had my car die while driving. I'll use my turn signal and my panel lights/gauges will die and my engine sputters out as well. I've change the starter and had the dealership replace the ignition harness. After doing both of those repairs my car seem fine for a week or two and then it's back to the same crap. Has anyone had anythin similar?
11-11-2007, 12:48 AM
#3643
I have a problem with my 01 maxima. When I put my key in to start it occasionally the panel lights will not turn on and all the gauges aren't working either. if I try to start my car like this it will turn over, sputter and die. I'll have to take my key out and retry until the panel lights and gauges respond. Once this happens my car usually starts runs fine.
I have on occasion, had my car die while driving. I'll use my turn signal and my panel lights/gauges will die and my engine sputters out as well. I've change the starter and had the dealership replace the ignition harness. After doing both of those repairs my car seem fine for a week or two and then it's back to the same crap. Has anyone had anythin similar?
I have on occasion, had my car die while driving. I'll use my turn signal and my panel lights/gauges will die and my engine sputters out as well. I've change the starter and had the dealership replace the ignition harness. After doing both of those repairs my car seem fine for a week or two and then it's back to the same crap. Has anyone had anythin similar?
11-11-2007, 10:52 AM
#3645
Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: SCHI
Posts: 40
Has anyone tried the Tornado Air (http://www.tornadoair.com)?
If so where did you install it; right after the MAF sensor or right on the throttle body?
I presume it would alter the MAF sensor readings somewhat, am I correct?
If so where did you install it; right after the MAF sensor or right on the throttle body?
I presume it would alter the MAF sensor readings somewhat, am I correct?
11-11-2007, 11:35 AM
#3648
any other suggestions as for why my car cranks and dies unless i rev the motor, MAF is only 9 months old and i'm thinking its still got at least 3 factory ignition coils in it, i've replaced one since i've had it and i'm thinking the other guy replaced 1 or 2
11-11-2007, 12:29 PM
#3649
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 10
Camber for the front, OK. How about the Rear, where it's worse than front. Is there anything I can abjust or put in. I, myself pretty much leveled the front, to where it's little bit like /--\ to |--| being straight, but the rear is the worse, where it's twice of /--\ this.
Anybody guys have this problem when you lower your ride?
How can it be fixed?
Anybody guys have this problem when you lower your ride?
How can it be fixed?
11-11-2007, 02:06 PM
#3650
Hey guys, I have a problem, which I didn't search for because I don't know what to search for!! '02 Maxima, 6 speed, 148,000kms... While driving straight, or having the wheel slightly to the left, I hear a sound like a tire rubbing. It's not constant, but only when the wheel goes round, and "hits" a certain spot. I figured it's the tire, but after checking, I didn't notice anything. It's coming from the right side of the car, sounds like the front to me. When I steer to the right a little bit, the noise goes away... What else could it be, if it's not the tire itself? Hard to explain the sound, other than just like a wet tire grinding on a piece of plastic (happened on my Olds) Oh, and the rims and tires are factory, 225/50-17... What could it be, what do I look for, I'm pulling the wheel off tomorrow morning. Thanks for the advice
11-11-2007, 02:37 PM
#3651
Has anyone tried the Tornado Air (http://www.tornadoair.com)?
If so where did you install it; right after the MAF sensor or right on the throttle body?
I presume it would alter the MAF sensor readings somewhat, am I correct?
If so where did you install it; right after the MAF sensor or right on the throttle body?
I presume it would alter the MAF sensor readings somewhat, am I correct?
you dont have to be an engineer to know that thing is pointless
11-11-2007, 11:35 PM
#3659
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 81
11-12-2007, 06:50 AM
#3663
UPDATE: I jacked up the car, and tried moving the front passenger wheel while it was in the air, and noticed quite a bit of wheel play. A fair ammount more than the drivers side. I took the wheel off, and didn't notice anything overly obvious, but I'm not sure what to look for. Any ideas? Please let me know if anything comes to mind...
11-12-2007, 07:01 AM
#3664
Thank you. I was hoping someone said something. Yes, it's been parked since I heard the noise, so I'm not driving like that. I will lift it up again today, and try to pinpoint what's the problem. I read that 9-3 movement is tierod, and 12-6 is ball joint, and both of them are wheel bearing. Is this correct?? I didn't know that was a testing method so I didn't pay attention which was it was moving. I'll let you know what happens... Thanks again.
11-12-2007, 08:17 AM
#3665
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 63
Synthetic oil to dino
I recently purchased a 2002 Maxima with 46,000 miles. I am the 3rd owner. The previouse owner said that he and the original owner both used synthetic oil. Can I switch to dino oil? If so can I switch back to sythetic later? What about the blended oils? I know the owners manual says not to mix oil. So wouldn't I be mixing it if I switch to dino?
I really have not firm reason for switching at this point other than I have a stock of dino oil and I'm used to it. I've never used sythetic. So I'm just wondering if I can switch back and forth.
I really have not firm reason for switching at this point other than I have a stock of dino oil and I'm used to it. I've never used sythetic. So I'm just wondering if I can switch back and forth.
11-12-2007, 08:47 AM
#3666
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 10
I recently purchased a 2002 Maxima with 46,000 miles. I am the 3rd owner. The previouse owner said that he and the original owner both used synthetic oil. Can I switch to dino oil? If so can I switch back to sythetic later? What about the blended oils? I know the owners manual says not to mix oil. So wouldn't I be mixing it if I switch to dino?
I really have not firm reason for switching at this point other than I have a stock of dino oil and I'm used to it. I've never used sythetic. So I'm just wondering if I can switch back and forth.
I really have not firm reason for switching at this point other than I have a stock of dino oil and I'm used to it. I've never used sythetic. So I'm just wondering if I can switch back and forth.
11-12-2007, 09:45 AM
#3668
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 51
Saturday morning when I got in my car I had the Battery + Brake light come on, which I know from previous experience is the alternator (I replaced it 3months or so ago).
At the same time the ABS light was coming on and flickering.
I took it to Autozone to have them test it to make sure it was bad and the first one I took it to just used the little handheld and the alternator tested as bad. I do all my work at my dads house, so I headed out there ready to change the alternator for the day. The battery+brake lights went back off, so I stopped at another autozone and this time the guy had a big tester on wheels, and he tested it and it came back as bad battery 3 times, nothing wrong with the alternator (I assumed this would happen since the Brake+Battery light were no longer on)
So I purchased a new battery, since this would be an easier fix and I know if the alternator doesnt test bad, even if I have lifetime replacement of the alternator through autozone, they wont replace it.
Everything was fine on Sunday.
This morning I get up and head to work, and same thing again, Battery + Brake light is on, and the ABS light is also on. This time when I rev up over 2500RPM I can hear a whine from the alternator, so I'm pretty sure its gonna crap out soon and I'm okay with replacing it .
Thats mostly background, I want to know what the ABS light has to do with the alternator going bad?
At the same time the ABS light was coming on and flickering.
I took it to Autozone to have them test it to make sure it was bad and the first one I took it to just used the little handheld and the alternator tested as bad. I do all my work at my dads house, so I headed out there ready to change the alternator for the day. The battery+brake lights went back off, so I stopped at another autozone and this time the guy had a big tester on wheels, and he tested it and it came back as bad battery 3 times, nothing wrong with the alternator (I assumed this would happen since the Brake+Battery light were no longer on)
So I purchased a new battery, since this would be an easier fix and I know if the alternator doesnt test bad, even if I have lifetime replacement of the alternator through autozone, they wont replace it.
Everything was fine on Sunday.
This morning I get up and head to work, and same thing again, Battery + Brake light is on, and the ABS light is also on. This time when I rev up over 2500RPM I can hear a whine from the alternator, so I'm pretty sure its gonna crap out soon and I'm okay with replacing it .
Thats mostly background, I want to know what the ABS light has to do with the alternator going bad?
11-12-2007, 10:48 AM
#3669
extreme squeaking / grinding noise
this happens pretty much anytime i'm not giving throttle. Taking turns squeaks like crazy, stopping squeaks etc etc
doesnt seem to happen while im giving it gas. I just changed the front brakes yesterday and the noise is still there.
sounds like grinding/squeaking.
i've read up on it and it appears it could be the bearings, but the car only has 55k on the clock, seems kinda early for such issues with bearings ..
2002 6speed
i havent checked the tire for extra play specifically , but i didnt notice any play up or down while taking off the tire to change the brakes ..
any ideas or tests i can do to narrow down the cause?
this happens pretty much anytime i'm not giving throttle. Taking turns squeaks like crazy, stopping squeaks etc etc
doesnt seem to happen while im giving it gas. I just changed the front brakes yesterday and the noise is still there.
sounds like grinding/squeaking.
i've read up on it and it appears it could be the bearings, but the car only has 55k on the clock, seems kinda early for such issues with bearings ..
2002 6speed
i havent checked the tire for extra play specifically , but i didnt notice any play up or down while taking off the tire to change the brakes ..
any ideas or tests i can do to narrow down the cause?
11-12-2007, 11:28 AM
#3670
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 63
What are your reasons for switching back to dino oil?
What are others reasons for using sythetic?
11-12-2007, 12:27 PM
#3671
Long distance driving is easy on oil. Dino can handle 5k miles under those conditions/10K plus for syn oil. In your situation, cold start wear would be the biggest concern, and you can't beat a good syn oil with excellent cold flow properties.
On my two vehicles I go back and forth. Dino or blends in the summer, synthetic in the winter. I'd lie if I said it's for the cold flow properties, but the truth is that I don't want to mess with an oil change when is 10 degrees outside and about 30 in my garage.
On my two vehicles I go back and forth. Dino or blends in the summer, synthetic in the winter. I'd lie if I said it's for the cold flow properties, but the truth is that I don't want to mess with an oil change when is 10 degrees outside and about 30 in my garage.
Last edited by CCS2k1Max; 11-12-2007 at 12:30 PM.
11-12-2007, 01:58 PM
#3672
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 63
Long distance driving is easy on oil. Dino can handle 5k miles under those conditions/10K plus for syn oil. In your situation, cold start wear would be the biggest concern, and you can't beat a good syn oil with excellent cold flow properties.
On my two vehicles I go back and forth. Dino or blends in the summer, synthetic in the winter. I'd lie if I said it's for the cold flow properties, but the truth is that I don't want to mess with an oil change when is 10 degrees outside and about 30 in my garage.
On my two vehicles I go back and forth. Dino or blends in the summer, synthetic in the winter. I'd lie if I said it's for the cold flow properties, but the truth is that I don't want to mess with an oil change when is 10 degrees outside and about 30 in my garage.
11-12-2007, 03:48 PM
#3673
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 70
Despite what the computer thinks is supposed to be the fuel/air ratio, it's wrong and is running too lean (meaning not enough fuel for the air that's coming into Bank 1 [half your cylinders]). Running an engine too lean for an extended period of time burns it up since lean condition means ultra hot. Recall, gasoline serves the purpose of fuel for the combustion process. It is also a very effective top end lubricant and coolant for the heat of the previous ignition cycle.
When I had this code (yes, the very same one), it was the MAF that was doing it for me (and apparently quite a few other Org'ers). Check out: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=538422 for our most recent discussion on this topic.
When I had this code (yes, the very same one), it was the MAF that was doing it for me (and apparently quite a few other Org'ers). Check out: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=538422 for our most recent discussion on this topic.
11-12-2007, 09:03 PM
#3675
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 72
Stupid Question:
Where is the rear window defogger relay located? Or what is it addv. as? I did a quick look under the hood and nothing caught my eye.
I'm trying to hook up my AstroStart to my rear defogger so when I hit a button on it, it kicks on my rear defogger (soon to kick on leather seats, steering wheel & mirrors). It'd be hard, but worth it
Where is the rear window defogger relay located? Or what is it addv. as? I did a quick look under the hood and nothing caught my eye.
I'm trying to hook up my AstroStart to my rear defogger so when I hit a button on it, it kicks on my rear defogger (soon to kick on leather seats, steering wheel & mirrors). It'd be hard, but worth it
Youll need a constant/time/latch ~200mA(-) to the Green/Red at the coil of the "rear window defogger relay."
11-12-2007, 11:49 PM
#3676
What happened prior to replacing the MAF:
1) Random stalling when idle.
2) Fuel cut-off at around 3500rpm.
So I decided to use the CRC cleaner to clean the MAF, figuring it was dirty. Was it? Absolutely. I was also warned by Orgers that the MAF doesn't hold up well to a cleaning.
What happened after cleaning the original MAF:
1) Stalling ceased.
2) Fuel cut-off disappeared.
3) Started getting pinging even running on Chevron 93 gas.
4) ECU threw a code that Bank 1 was running too lean.
Orgers noted that the Bank 1 too lean code was generally a sign of symptomatic MAF failure. Although the initial problems disappeared, the engine just would not cooperate on the high octane gas. That dreamy SES light pisses me off, too, so I decided to take the plunge and purchase the MAF.
What happened after the MAF replacement:
1) Pinging ceased immediately.
2) Throttle response improved a great deal (you don't know how bad it is until you get a fully new working part).
3) After a thousand miles, ECU throws a new code - general catalyst deficiency.
I reset the code, and a couple hundred miles - boom, code reappears. I talk with a Nissan guy who explained that the programming of the ECU is linked to the current model of MAF. Reprogramming the ECU is highly recommended to ensure accurate fuel/air ratio.
I was ready to take the plunge and schedule an appointment with Nissan for ECU reprogramming. This past Friday - poof, the code disappears on its own. The Nissan guy did say that the colder it got, the more likelihood of the code would be to reappear (cold air == denser air). So, it's been a hundred miles without a code. Should it reappear, I'll bite the bullet and go get the ECU updated as recommended. But as long as the ECU thinks everything is game, I'm waiting in the balance...
11-13-2007, 07:40 AM
#3677
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 34
When i am driving, my car seems noiser than usual. It doesn't seem like it's wind noise.
To clarify the "noise", it's like being in an old honda civic compare to a new Lincoln Town Car
Does anybody know what's wrong?
2001 maxima, 73k mileage
To clarify the "noise", it's like being in an old honda civic compare to a new Lincoln Town Car
Does anybody know what's wrong?
2001 maxima, 73k mileage
11-13-2007, 07:56 AM
#3678
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Houston,TX
Posts: 899
It seems that somebody filled your tires with golf *****.... Take your car to the nearest tire shop, have them remove the tires from the rims and then have them remount the tires again...but this time without the golf *****. Make sure they fill the tires with air instead. - Hope that helps. Keep us updated.
11-13-2007, 08:04 AM
#3679
where is the sound coming from, when does it happen, does it get worse when you ____, does it get better when you____, does it happen at idle, etc, etc. Under the hood or in the cabin?
11-13-2007, 08:25 AM
#3680
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 34
I have my windows closed when i'm driving. the noise in the cabin is louder than usual when i am driving. It's more noticeable when i'm on the highway (probably b/c i'm driving faster).
When idling or on "park", it is quiet. When i open the hood to listen to the engine, it seems normal.
Could it be bad transmission fluid?
When idling or on "park", it is quiet. When i open the hood to listen to the engine, it seems normal.
Could it be bad transmission fluid?