djfrestyl's DEFINITIVE "I HAVE A SUSPENSION QUESTION" THREAD!!!
my first thought was bearing.
second, is the strut shaft. Does it squeak going over bumps as well?
if you replace the mount/bearing, do the strut as well. Same amount of work so might as well while you are there.
Do both sides too.
second, is the strut shaft. Does it squeak going over bumps as well?
if you replace the mount/bearing, do the strut as well. Same amount of work so might as well while you are there.
Do both sides too.
No squeaking on bumps just turning. Im gonna do the struts soon anyway so im just gonna have the bearing ready.
Recommend saving up to do it right the first time. Don't cheap out and *just* do struts without doing lowering springs, or lowering springs without struts, or struts and lowering springs without mounts/boots, etc.
What exactly is your budget? Feel free to PM me if you don't want to disclose publicly.
Last edited by djfrestyl; Sep 20, 2013 at 02:48 PM.
True. But this setup (including mounts and boots to do it right) still costs ~$700 not including installation.
Recommend saving up to do it right the first time. Don't cheap out and *just* do struts, or springs, or struts and springs without mounts/boots, etc.
What exactly is your budget? Feel free to PM me if you don't want to disclose publicly.
Recommend saving up to do it right the first time. Don't cheap out and *just* do struts, or springs, or struts and springs without mounts/boots, etc.
What exactly is your budget? Feel free to PM me if you don't want to disclose publicly.
THIS. 100%.
I did the entire Illumina setup (springs/struts/shocks) for 550 wheeling and dealing with an ebay seller, than an extra 180 for the boots and front mounts. So I spent around 750-800 on my setup, all 4 corners. And that's without paying a shop for the install.
First, the way you captured this video is freakin awesome. Kudos to you, sir.
I hear two noises - a squeak, and then a clunk.
Interestingly, both seem more related to the movement of the engine (by watching the oil pan) than the suspension itself. I'd check tranny mount and anything else in that general area. Only other time I hear a noise like that is a sway bar link..and ONCE, it was a badly worn strut mount.
Can you replicate the noise if you push up/down on the car at the fender? Also push and pull the fender so it shimmies side to side.
I hear two noises - a squeak, and then a clunk.
Interestingly, both seem more related to the movement of the engine (by watching the oil pan) than the suspension itself. I'd check tranny mount and anything else in that general area. Only other time I hear a noise like that is a sway bar link..and ONCE, it was a badly worn strut mount.
Can you replicate the noise if you push up/down on the car at the fender? Also push and pull the fender so it shimmies side to side.
First, the way you captured this video is freakin awesome. Kudos to you, sir.
I hear two noises - a squeak, and then a clunk.
Interestingly, both seem more related to the movement of the engine (by watching the oil pan) than the suspension itself. I'd check tranny mount and anything else in that general area. Only other time I hear a noise like that is a sway bar link..and ONCE, it was a badly worn strut mount.
Can you replicate the noise if you push up/down on the car at the fender? Also push and pull the fender so it shimmies side to side.
I hear two noises - a squeak, and then a clunk.
Interestingly, both seem more related to the movement of the engine (by watching the oil pan) than the suspension itself. I'd check tranny mount and anything else in that general area. Only other time I hear a noise like that is a sway bar link..and ONCE, it was a badly worn strut mount.
Can you replicate the noise if you push up/down on the car at the fender? Also push and pull the fender so it shimmies side to side.
Last edited by nestorlugo; Sep 20, 2013 at 07:43 PM.
That rattle at ~1:40 sounds like strut or mount.
The squeak could be from the engine/trans mount or the sway bar link. Just pop the tire off and start looking and shaking things around. Stuff usually isn't that hard to find.
personally, I think paying a shop to do this work is crazy. It's super easy to do with a basic set of tools.
The squeak could be from the engine/trans mount or the sway bar link. Just pop the tire off and start looking and shaking things around. Stuff usually isn't that hard to find.
THIS. 100%.
I did the entire Illumina setup (springs/struts/shocks) for 550 wheeling and dealing with an ebay seller, than an extra 180 for the boots and front mounts. So I spent around 750-800 on my setup, all 4 corners. And that's without paying a shop for the install.
I did the entire Illumina setup (springs/struts/shocks) for 550 wheeling and dealing with an ebay seller, than an extra 180 for the boots and front mounts. So I spent around 750-800 on my setup, all 4 corners. And that's without paying a shop for the install.
[QUOTE=AWeb80;8854295]That rattle at ~1:40 sounds like strut or mount.
The squeak could be from the engine/trans mount or the sway bar link. Just pop the tire off and start looking and shaking things around. Stuff usually isn't that hard to find.
Ok,so i put her up on a pedestal(jackstands)lol....took the tire off and channeled my inner thor banging away with my hammA(rubbermallet)......
Well looks like lca bushing are shot...reading around here suggests going es...so will do....also ordered moog sway bar ends and ball joints...looks like at 185@#%mi.she's getting a mini makeover.
The whole kyb gr2,6,8,4,6,#,@,%whatever lower springs rear kicks out to the right etc etc is just too muCh...imo the driver side strut assembly is bad(Bad bearing and super spongy)a Fleetwood would be jealous so pick and pull here i come
The squeak could be from the engine/trans mount or the sway bar link. Just pop the tire off and start looking and shaking things around. Stuff usually isn't that hard to find.
Ok,so i put her up on a pedestal(jackstands)lol....took the tire off and channeled my inner thor banging away with my hammA(rubbermallet)......
Well looks like lca bushing are shot...reading around here suggests going es...so will do....also ordered moog sway bar ends and ball joints...looks like at 185@#%mi.she's getting a mini makeover.
The whole kyb gr2,6,8,4,6,#,@,%whatever lower springs rear kicks out to the right etc etc is just too muCh...imo the driver side strut assembly is bad(Bad bearing and super spongy)a Fleetwood would be jealous so pick and pull here i come
is that 185,xxx on the factory struts/mounts?
I'd say your LCA's were gone a long time ago. New Bj's and end links are a good idea. Be ready to hacksaw off those end link nuts.
Are you pulling a stock strut assembly from a JY car? why? Just get new front mounts and all new struts.
I'd say your LCA's were gone a long time ago. New Bj's and end links are a good idea. Be ready to hacksaw off those end link nuts.
Are you pulling a stock strut assembly from a JY car? why? Just get new front mounts and all new struts.
is that 185,xxx on the factory struts/mounts?
I'd say your LCA's were gone a long time ago. New Bj's and end links are a good idea. Be ready to hacksaw off those end link nuts.
Are you pulling a stock strut assembly from a JY car? why? Just get new front mounts and all new struts.
I'd say your LCA's were gone a long time ago. New Bj's and end links are a good idea. Be ready to hacksaw off those end link nuts.
Are you pulling a stock strut assembly from a JY car? why? Just get new front mounts and all new struts.
I would think so(Mileage), i bought her last February $2300
... both front struts shot
pulled two of a doner and i think one has failed. ...just worried about the thump sound. ..i need to do all fours but just not in a real hurry beside lack of funds(weallgotpriorities)
For the LCA's, I'd just go with some Dorman or ACDelco arms from Amazon/rockauto. It's going to cost as much to get the ES bushings and have them pressed in and reassembled. New arms would be plug and play.....and since your lack of funds is a factor, I'd go with the plug and play method.
Basic suspension questions
djfrestyl, I am wanting to lower my 02 max and have looked around at my options for quite some time around here and on google. While looking through the forums and the interwebz I have come to realize that this is an expensive mod to do right.
At first I thought I should just get some lowered springs because its the cheapest way to go without cutting the springs. Then I realized I will need to buy aftermarket struts because the OEM doesnt fit very well with aftermarket springs. Seeing as though when you buy lowered springs you have to buy a load of other parts, it all seems to add up. Is it better to just shell out the extra cash for coilovers? I'm trying to spend the least I can here while getting a good bit of performance at the same time. Whats the best way to do that?
At first I thought I should just get some lowered springs because its the cheapest way to go without cutting the springs. Then I realized I will need to buy aftermarket struts because the OEM doesnt fit very well with aftermarket springs. Seeing as though when you buy lowered springs you have to buy a load of other parts, it all seems to add up. Is it better to just shell out the extra cash for coilovers? I'm trying to spend the least I can here while getting a good bit of performance at the same time. Whats the best way to do that?
you do realize that lowering springs can be used w/ stock struts. I used H&R springs w/ new KYB struts, which are stock replacements. It's just a good practice to put new struts on when doing springs since it takes all of that same amount of work to do the struts in the first place.
It isn't expensive. ~$80 per front strut, ~$50 per rear, and ~$215 for H&R's. I threw on new front mounts because it is just good practice.....and don't use monroe struts. ever. spend the money to get good ones.
You'll spend a lot more on CO's.
It isn't expensive. ~$80 per front strut, ~$50 per rear, and ~$215 for H&R's. I threw on new front mounts because it is just good practice.....and don't use monroe struts. ever. spend the money to get good ones.
You'll spend a lot more on CO's.
you do realize that lowering springs can be used w/ stock struts. I used H&R springs w/ new KYB struts, which are stock replacements. It's just a good practice to put new struts on when doing springs since it takes all of that same amount of work to do the struts in the first place.
It isn't expensive. ~$80 per front strut, ~$50 per rear, and ~$215 for H&R's. I threw on new front mounts because it is just good practice.....and don't use monroe struts. ever. spend the money to get good ones.
You'll spend a lot more on CO's.
It isn't expensive. ~$80 per front strut, ~$50 per rear, and ~$215 for H&R's. I threw on new front mounts because it is just good practice.....and don't use monroe struts. ever. spend the money to get good ones.
You'll spend a lot more on CO's.
Also, the struts I was looking at were 135 apiece. Iirc they were Illuminas though. I'm not sure what mid grade struts are approved on the forums.
Basically I want the drop, but I want it to feel if not the same as it does on stock, then better.
Actually, I have spent quite a bit of time on the forums lately and from what I can tell Aftermarket springs+OEM struts= terrible ride. At least the large majority of what I have read seemed to say that. The OEM struts are not rated to be used with that low of springs, meaning the ride would be uncomfortable.
Also, the struts I was looking at were 135 apiece. Iirc they were Illuminas though. I'm not sure what mid grade struts are approved on the forums.
Basically I want the drop, but I want it to feel if not the same as it does on stock, then better.
Also, the struts I was looking at were 135 apiece. Iirc they were Illuminas though. I'm not sure what mid grade struts are approved on the forums.
Basically I want the drop, but I want it to feel if not the same as it does on stock, then better.

Post 779 makes note of 'stock' struts
Post 780 states 'aftermarket' struts.
Please note - there is a difference between OEM and aftermarket. 'Stock' is not the right term to use because it is too ambigious.
Lowering springs on OEM struts = terrible idea
Lowering springs on aftermarket struts = depends on WHICH strut. GR-2's are fine. IMO Tokico Blues are not.
Your spring will dictate which strut to get. So pick your ride height first and we'll go from there.
Last edited by djfrestyl; Sep 24, 2013 at 06:24 AM.
Okay, that sounds like a good idea. I was looking at the Eibachs for quite some time and was pretty set on them because other users say they love the ride and that it's about the best you can get. Plus, I don't want my ride "slammed". I just wanna lessen the gap between my wheels and the fender. Seemed like a moderate drop.
However, after reading a couple of your posts that randomly popped up, It seemed like you would NOT recommend the Eibachs. Iirc you said you have seen more of those break than any others. Which is not something I want.
As for struts, I know absolutely nothing about.
However, after reading a couple of your posts that randomly popped up, It seemed like you would NOT recommend the Eibachs. Iirc you said you have seen more of those break than any others. Which is not something I want.
As for struts, I know absolutely nothing about.
Correct, stay away from Eibach's. They're not comfortable, and they break.
H&R's are the best. They're not super low, but that's what allows comfort.
This might help:
http://www.shiftice.com/spring_strut_decision.html
Keep in mind the site is old and a few of those springs are no longer available, but it should help point you in the right direction.
H&R's are the best. They're not super low, but that's what allows comfort.
This might help:
http://www.shiftice.com/spring_strut_decision.html
Keep in mind the site is old and a few of those springs are no longer available, but it should help point you in the right direction.
Let me clarify because we are getting caught up in semantics.
Post 779 makes note of 'stock' struts
Post 780 states 'aftermarket' struts.
Please note - there is a difference between OEM and aftermarket. 'Stock' is not the right term to use because it is too ambigious.
Lowering springs on OEM struts = terrible idea
Lowering springs on aftermarket struts = depends on WHICH strut. GR-2's are fine. IMO Tokico Blues are not.
Your spring will dictate which strut to get. So pick your ride height first and we'll go from there.
Post 779 makes note of 'stock' struts
Post 780 states 'aftermarket' struts.
Please note - there is a difference between OEM and aftermarket. 'Stock' is not the right term to use because it is too ambigious.
Lowering springs on OEM struts = terrible idea
Lowering springs on aftermarket struts = depends on WHICH strut. GR-2's are fine. IMO Tokico Blues are not.
Your spring will dictate which strut to get. So pick your ride height first and we'll go from there.
I should clarify, I don't know why anyone would put lowering springs on stuck struts. If you go through all the same work to put the springs on, why woukdnt you just save the money to do it right. Unless you are a ricer.
Correct, stay away from Eibach's. They're not comfortable, and they break.
H&R's are the best. They're not super low, but that's what allows comfort.
This might help:
http://www.shiftice.com/spring_strut_decision.html
Keep in mind the site is old and a few of those springs are no longer available, but it should help point you in the right direction.
H&R's are the best. They're not super low, but that's what allows comfort.
This might help:
http://www.shiftice.com/spring_strut_decision.html
Keep in mind the site is old and a few of those springs are no longer available, but it should help point you in the right direction.
Okay, let's say I go with the H&R. How does it ride compared to the Eibachs? Is it still smooth?
Back to the struts.. If I go with the H&R, what struts would you recommend?
Will I notice the difference between the 5/16 inch on the Eibachs and the 3/4 on the H&R? It seems silly, but I feel like I can see a difference. I want people to be able to tell a difference from stock and after I out these on.
Okay, let's say I go with the H&R. How does it ride compared to the Eibachs? Is it still smooth?
Back to the struts.. If I go with the H&R, what struts would you recommend?
Okay, let's say I go with the H&R. How does it ride compared to the Eibachs? Is it still smooth?
Back to the struts.. If I go with the H&R, what struts would you recommend?
And if that is your confirmed choice on springs, then agree on the above, GR-2 is the way to go for struts.
Hi everyone I'm at wit ends the problem is that from time to time my shocks feel blown then randomly it doesn't (not motor mounts) at other times its uncomfortably stiff ,and for some weird reason when it's stiff it is because the bumpstops have no room for play example the bump stop touches the shock and the top hat at the same type these are kybs btw with about an inch drop lowering spring i cut the bumpstops when i first figured out thats what was causing the stiff ride now its happening again even after i cut about an inch off
2. Need more info. WHAT (specifically) do you have installed? What kind of struts? What kind of springs? It sounds like you have blown struts combined with shortened bumpstops so you're bottoming out, but that's speculation because I don't have enough background info from your post.
Spring is for ride quality. It's what holds the weight of the car. The strut is there to dampen the up and down motion of the spring and keep the car from pogoing down the road. It controls ride quality too...but not as much.
Will I notice the difference between the 5/16 inch on the Eibachs and the 3/4 on the H&R? It seems silly, but I feel like I can see a difference. I want people to be able to tell a difference from stock and after I out these on.
Okay, let's say I go with the H&R. How does it ride compared to the Eibachs? Is it still smooth?
Back to the struts.. If I go with the H&R, what struts would you recommend?
Okay, let's say I go with the H&R. How does it ride compared to the Eibachs? Is it still smooth?
Back to the struts.. If I go with the H&R, what struts would you recommend?
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...b-shifter.html
I'd see if he'd go lower.
Now, I've never done this before so I figured I'd ask, but are springs not something that should be bought new rather than getting used one? I think the lowest I've seen them online are 236. Eighty dollar difference.
I've used used springs before. As long as there isn't any cuts/knicks in the paint that could lead to cracks, I don't see a problem with using them.
I've had some and seen more factory installed springs break more than aftermarket.
I've had some and seen more factory installed springs break more than aftermarket.



