5th gen Off Topic Thread (Official Ghustle thread v1)
I can't help myself in that store.
Plasmas are a double-edged sword. On the one hand, they are very bright and they all run at 600Hz so you never have a distorted picture. On the other hand, you will eventually have pinkish crap filtering in to the white parts of the picture as the pixels start exploding. It's weird. My 42" Samsung plasma is 6 years old and works great, but I have that pink only on totally white screens, but if it goes to anything else, the picture is perfect and the hi-def looks fantastic. I did the proper 100 hours break-in with the contrast turned way down and the picture relatively dark. I have no burn-in anywhere, but I still have the pinkish-white screen now... The other problem with plasmas is they weigh a half-ton compared to an LCD or an LED. My next TV will probably be a 55" LED or LED-LCD, at least 120Hz, 240Hz if I can afford it.
Plasmas are a double-edged sword. On the one hand, they are very bright and they all run at 600Hz so you never have a distorted picture. On the other hand, you will eventually have pinkish crap filtering in to the white parts of the picture as the pixels start exploding. It's weird. My 42" Samsung plasma is 6 years old and works great, but I have that pink only on totally white screens, but if it goes to anything else, the picture is perfect and the hi-def looks fantastic. I did the proper 100 hours break-in with the contrast turned way down and the picture relatively dark. I have no burn-in anywhere, but I still have the pinkish-white screen now... The other problem with plasmas is they weigh a half-ton compared to an LCD or an LED. My next TV will probably be a 55" LED or LED-LCD, at least 120Hz, 240Hz if I can afford it.
Basically, each has its tradeoff against the other types. If you're dead-set on an LED, get the highest quality you can afford, 'cause it sucks when the LEDs burn out.
Last edited by EuroDriver; May 18, 2012 at 01:51 PM.
Go bigger and get Plasma. 
Called the body shop that's got the wife's outback for a status update, and I get told that the $1420 insurance estimate has morphed into a $3600 repair ! Shee-it, good thing we're only on the hook for the deductible.
The assessed value of the car is $4200 so it's in that territory...... I want it fixed, not totalled.
Called the body shop that's got the wife's outback for a status update, and I get told that the $1420 insurance estimate has morphed into a $3600 repair ! Shee-it, good thing we're only on the hook for the deductible.
The assessed value of the car is $4200 so it's in that territory...... I want it fixed, not totalled.
Plasmas don't have pixels. The pink crap is the anti-glare filter they put on them (and Panasonics are notorious for it). LCD's have pixels and suffer from pixelation (pixels burn out and you start getting black dots on the screen). LED's suffer from uneven picture brightness, especially when LEDs start to burn out. Plasmas suffer from burn-in (an image will burn onto the screen, causing a "ghost" image). But most plasmas nowadays come with a tool in the settings to "erase" burn-in.
Basically, each has its tradeoff against the other types. If you're dead-set on an LED, get the highest quality you can afford, 'cause it sucks when the LEDs burn out.
Basically, each has its tradeoff against the other types. If you're dead-set on an LED, get the highest quality you can afford, 'cause it sucks when the LEDs burn out.
Can you explain how a plasma makes it's picture? Because I can tell you when I look very closely at the picture I can see individual squares in the picture that look an awful lot like pixels.
Here's a decent explanation of the differences: http://www.cnet.com.au/plasma-vs-lcd...-240036500.htm
Last edited by EuroDriver; May 18, 2012 at 02:04 PM.
OK, so I just did some reading on how a plasma is made up and I'm sort of going to have to disagree with you Euro on plasmas not having pixels. They are in fact made up of many hundreds of thousands of tiny cells of xenon and neon gas sandwiched between 2 plates of glass. Now maybe the actual "technical" term for it is a "cell", but it amounts to exactly the same thing as a pixel.
From Wiki, the definition of a pixel: pixel, or pel,[1] (picture element[2]) is a physical point in a raster image, or the smallest, addressable element in a display device; so it is the smallest, controllable element of a picture represented on the screen
From Wiki, the definition of a pixel: pixel, or pel,[1] (picture element[2]) is a physical point in a raster image, or the smallest, addressable element in a display device; so it is the smallest, controllable element of a picture represented on the screen
I know that the lwfw doesn't change engine output. But if it changes the rate of acceleration through the minimization of drive train loss, doesn't that mean the rollers on the dyno will spin faster? Thus resulting in a higher number on paper?
I'm thinking of it the same way you look at AT vs MT dynos. The engine puts out the same power of course. But the wheels see more of that power it was missing out on which results in a higher number on the dyno.
I'm thinking of it the same way you look at AT vs MT dynos. The engine puts out the same power of course. But the wheels see more of that power it was missing out on which results in a higher number on the dyno.
This means that even it accelerates faster that wont change the actual output numbers.
Yes, auto vs. manual will put diff. numbers down but that's becuase the power flow is completely different, the transmission of power is different, this translates in to different power loss through the geartrain.
This is why comparing a DM flywheel to LW one piece you could see minor gains on a dyno, becuase a DM flywheel could potentially rob some power in it's dampening effect.
force is equl to mass*acceleration. THis is the principle they work off of. The weight of the rollers is known. The computer is connected to the ignition system to measure the RPMS. Once the speed of the rollers is measured they use these numbers to calculate wheel HP. Simple concept but is different from brake horsepower which is the actual engines HP without loss through the drivetrain
From My understanding? No. dyno's aren't just free wheels that measure speed, they actually measure the load applied, etc.
This means that even it accelerates faster that wont change the actual output numbers.
Yes, auto vs. manual will put diff. numbers down but that's becuase the power flow is completely different, the transmission of power is different, this translates in to different power loss through the geartrain.
This is why comparing a DM flywheel to LW one piece you could see minor gains on a dyno, becuase a DM flywheel could potentially rob some power in it's dampening effect.
This means that even it accelerates faster that wont change the actual output numbers.
Yes, auto vs. manual will put diff. numbers down but that's becuase the power flow is completely different, the transmission of power is different, this translates in to different power loss through the geartrain.
This is why comparing a DM flywheel to LW one piece you could see minor gains on a dyno, becuase a DM flywheel could potentially rob some power in it's dampening effect.
All of this is the reason why till this day, I prefer to street tune. I'm not saying that a dyno is useless at all. I think it is essential to fine tuning. But i've beaten cars that dyno upwards of 260whp. And I know for a fact that i'd be lucky to pull 220whp in perfect conditions.
Last edited by ShocknAwe; May 18, 2012 at 03:02 PM.
Did you see them dyno at this number? Either they are lying or they use a crappy dyno and some less than reputable tuners change smoothing factors to make it seem like they made your car 30hp faster. Old software etc. On a modern dyno in a reputable shop. ITs accurate to within 10hp. A decent shop doesnt need to falsify numbers because they dont need anymore customers lol. You dont NEED a dyno like most people seem to think but its safer to do it in a controlled environment and if you frequent shops like I do you get a good bang for your buck
lol my msg made no sense when I reread it lol had to edit. Oh there are some cars that dyno way high and others that dyno low. Its weird and I couldn't tell you why. Then again 300hp is all relative to what car its in too. Im just saying that a good dyno is pretty damn accurate and unless you want to take your engine out to get a true number then its really the only game in town. Not all roller are created equal either.
Just did a quick search myself and it looks like the average ones dyno around the 240whp range with a few up in the 260s. Still, that should be more than enough to take this old tired dek down.
You would think. Like I said its probably them lying or the dyno/software that is downright ancient. Im lucky to live in ATL where there are tons of shops competing against each other but a lot of people only have 1 game in town so the shop has no reason to upgrade equipment you know? It can be a shady game
So is that coating breaking down as time goes on then? Because I only see it on parts of the screen that are turning white. Once they change color, the pink is gone.
It will generally be deemed a total loss once the repair bill reaches 80% of the value. If they do total it out, the silver lining for you will be that you can "buy it back" from them dirt-cheap (they pay you the difference). Then you can find a cheap, reputable body shop (plenty of mom & pop shops are cheap and reputable) to do the repairs and you can end up with a nice wad of cash in your pocket.
See if aackshun has a flux capasitor and harness off a 80's delorian you'll also need a Mr.Fusion maby the chinese joint has a extra one of them next to the 3fer5 packs of 4B hair and $5 wigs
Plasmas are a double-edged sword. On the one hand, they are very bright and they all run at 600Hz so you never have a distorted picture. On the other hand, you will eventually have pinkish crap filtering in to the white parts of the picture as the pixels start exploding. It's weird. My 42" Samsung plasma is 6 years old and works great, but I have that pink only on totally white screens, but if it goes to anything else, the picture is perfect and the hi-def looks fantastic. I did the proper 100 hours break-in with the contrast turned way down and the picture relatively dark. I have no burn-in anywhere, but I still have the pinkish-white screen now... The other problem with plasmas is they weigh a half-ton compared to an LCD or an LED. My next TV will probably be a 55" LED or LED-LCD, at least 120Hz, 240Hz if I can afford it.
Many concede that 1/4 mile times and 0-60 are the most accurate times, but tuning must be done via dyno to really do a good job.
HP numbers are what you tell the boys around coffee. If you're serious about shyt, those numbers don't mean a lot, it's the times you put down in a race that matter.
just like anything there's a billion variables.
Many concede that 1/4 mile times and 0-60 are the most accurate times, but tuning must be done via dyno to really do a good job.
HP numbers are what you tell the boys around coffee. If you're serious about shyt, those numbers don't mean a lot, it's the times you put down in a race that matter.
Many concede that 1/4 mile times and 0-60 are the most accurate times, but tuning must be done via dyno to really do a good job.
HP numbers are what you tell the boys around coffee. If you're serious about shyt, those numbers don't mean a lot, it's the times you put down in a race that matter.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 10,344
From: Jacksonville, FL
Here's a Gerry can full of gas. In order to light it on fire, you have to first remove the safety cap by depressing the locking tabs, and turning it in the proper direction, then you have to pour the gas out over something.
But this is still safe. As an added safety feature, you need a Lighter to do anything further!
Even more safe, there's a safety depress tab on the lighter before you can strike it. Once depressed you can now use the lighter. Then, you have to actually put the lighter, WHILE lit, up to the gasoline.
So that's why lighters and gas are perfectly safe, and don't light on fire. People light fires.
I appreciate your effort in this matter, and you can truly argue with me and win on many fronts about pro-guns. But that concept is way to ignorant for you to believe CJ, yo'ure far to smart for that. Wash that concept out of your head.