So, after completing the job of replacing the RTA bushings - the rear end clunking is still present. The last moving pieces in the rear suspension left are the Lateral Link and Arm. While I'm glad I replaced the RTA Bushings, wish I wasn't throwing new parts at my problem. I've priced both components and can get them for $91.00 and $60, which isn't bad IF it fixes my problem. While looking at the rear end while the car was on Jacks in a mild depression - I heated up all the nuts to the lateral link and rod and loosened them up. Once I get the parts - it shouldn't be too bad of a job. Only bad part will be the COLD garage floor. I cannot find the individual bushings, is it true that they are not available separately?

BTW - pressing the bushings into the RTA with a big hex bolt worked like a charm. Ended up using a metal electrical box covers with a hole drilled in it for press plates.

Next problem is a higher than normal idle - I cleaned the MAF sensor, which I thought helped a little - but will need to do a little more reserach. Any way to test if the MAF need to be replaced?

 

If you have that rear axle assembly and know where to purchase the bushings for all the components I'll buy it from you.

 

12 years later i would have to suspect its gone.

 

I always wonder why people restore really old threads.

 

having done it myself accidentally once or twice, there's not much more one can say other than "dude, old thread".

lots of rear axle beams on car-parts . com

 

it's best to get the bushings replaced with an energy suspension bushing than buy a used rear axle that may leave you in the same boat within a year. I've been running the Energy Suspension rear trail arm bushing on my 02 and they have been holding up great since 2014 I believe.

 

I think they were maybe planning on getting a axle and then changing the bushings at their leisure before attempting to get the old one out, so potentially having the car out of commission for less time.

 

not a bad idea. I heard that 95-03 use the same rear axle.

 

All the same except a small difference where the lateral link connects to the beam.

 

I remember the moment I realized mine where bad. I was on the highway and braked pretty hard, the back of the car felt really unstable. with E.S. bushings, Addco rear sway bar, fresh shocks and Tein S-Tech springs the rear stays really planted when maneuvering..

 

The people that support the Board probably like the new action. It's not like there are thousands of posts to read through daily. Be glad people still come here.

 

It used to be a little annoying when the forums moved pretty quickly but now its a ghost town so who cares, at least it shows theyre using the search bar. In another 3 years my max will qualify as an antique vehicle on my insurance policy, these cars are only going to become more and more obscure.

 

Yes mine too! No more emissions required in GA!

 

Yep, getting close to Historic Plate time. Then I can get the reduced-price Wendy's Frosty!

 

This is off topic, but since this thread is busy, I will post here:

I have a Megan 2.5 inch catback that is too loud for me. I took off a Walker Quiet Flow 2.25 because I thought it would stifle the power. I have come to the realization that the Megan is too loud.

I don't care if I lose a little power, I just need it quieter. Is the Walker good to go, or is there a better option?

Thanks, all!!!!

 

it's just a matter of trial and error until you find the sound you like. so far all the quieter turbo style mufflers that I have tried internally fell apart except for the Dynomax Super Turbo that I'm running now and it's a bit loud still. I have full 3" catless with a glass pack for a resonator and Dynomax Super Turbo muffler and 4th gen exhaust manifold with Warpspeed Y. my next step is to install a better resonator to see if it helps. I have a Dynomax Ultra Flow 17223 sitting in the garage.

 

doesn't the drive axle in the photo mean it's the front suspension? There's no rear anti-sway bar...