For the first time since ive owned it im up for an oil change. Im usually a valvoline guy but castrol was on sale this month and im 500 overdue so i figured id make the sacrafice. Found the clunking is either because both swaybar end links are worn out or it looks like the passanger tie rod looks like its on its last leg. Also i got around to replacing the cabin air filter which has NEVER been done. So spent an hour blowing out dead bugs and old wet leaves. I dont know if im just making it up but my air is ice cold now and it blows way harder.

 

Haven't been on here in a while, so I feel the need for nice post with bunch of pics

Changed her oil with Amsoil full synthetic, Amsoil oil filter and will be using Amsoil exclusively from now on. Got interior detailed nicely.

Engine bay (before power washing):


Engine bay (after power wash):


Passenger side dent removed, waxed a bit:


Exhaust cleaned (Mag aluminum polish is some good stuff):


Cleaned up valve cover, painted rusty heat shield:


And finally, just this evening after a good wash:

 

Looking good.
How bad do you blind people. A lot, or bunch?






Polishing will do so much.
There is another level of resurrection.


before/after.
Lights turned out fantastic.
I need to buff them to get some of that orange peel off to make them look perfect.
$30 for the 2k can and some finishing sandpaper. Cheap!









Blam!

 

Stillwell, your Max is looking amazing.

Donkey, you're a wizard I need to do my headlights asap, they're looking terrible.

 

^ Thanks!

Actually I dont blind people at all, never had one complaint and my lights are aimed properly. I think the lighting in those pics made the lights look really bright.

And those fogs came out incredible donkey! I need to do the same with mine sometime

 

Might try to get a little body work done

 

today i drove it. noticed a sweet smell when i stopped the car. opened the hood to this:



looks like i'll be learning how to replace a radiator lol

 

Put a stillen lip on today.

 

Im waiting for those repairs to be done in the next fews days and will do exactly what you said for the first time too


also....open faced sandwich guys..

 

rim details sir?

 

370z wheels. +15 offset in the rear 255/35/18. +35 offset up front with 225/40/18, wrapped in Bridgestone Potenzas

 

Another shot.

 

So many of us have been there and done that. About the only consolation is that it isn't a tough job.

 

loving the back setup, low offset nice stance

These are def for rear wheel drive, but the rear on this car i find needs a spacer + low offset.

Since you got nice back grip, i'd go with larger back breaks and you will actually get more braking performance.

I thought maybe you'd have front turning issues but the front ones are sized right for FWD

 

I love it man. I'm actually trying to get rears for the front haha

 

^^^^^^ Dang Y2kMaxima that ride looking nice bro Do the cops ever give you a hard time about the no front plate?

 

Thanks brother!
Pfft no haha. Never get any issues with it

 

Swapped out the stock door scuff guards with chrome ones I got at the junkyard for $12.



Installed a leather Infiniti e-brake I got at the junkyard for $15.



Replaced all four door speakers with Kenwoods. Also replaced the stock tweeters with Alpines and installed a new battery ground, battery to chassis ground, and engine to chassis ground.



Up next: rear Brembo brake rotors, rear Hawk HPS brake pads, new fuel filter, new spark plugs, KYB shocks, Eibach struts, and a Pioneer stereo.

 

Ricerrr

 

will they fit?? i fear they might rub on the inside somewhere?

also i started this thread:
https://maxima.org/forums/tires-whee...h-5th-gen.html

your picture is referenced

 

Past weekend I did a bunch to my Maxima. I went to Vegas the weekend before and it was way hot...Maxima was running very hot, but never overheated. With that...I went through the cooling system.

• Replaced out thermostat and water valve.
• Drain and refill coolant (previous coolant in very good condition, still bright green).
• Replaced radiator cap.
• Replaced PCV valve.
• Replaced blower motor (was making a buzzing sound).
• Cleaned in cabin filters.
• Re-installed stock intake. My previous SRI was sucking in heat from the engine bay. Running about 10 degrees cooler with the stock intake.
• Replaced air filter.
• Installed O2 spacer on bank 2 secondary O2 sensor (had a P0430 code).
• Rotate tires and patched a screw puncture in one tire.
• Replaced spark plugs (read my plugs!!! See picture).

Do you think I was running hot? Looks like it...plugs seem to indicate running hot with the whitish around the tops. What do you think?

 

Used coil cleaner and get that condenser as clean as it can get really.

 

I have been trying to change out my Bose head unit since the beginning of June (the CD is dying) but so many things aren't going right.

The PAC ROEM line adaptor I bought on ebay was used, it was supposed to be new. Had to get that straightened out.
I forgot to buy the antenna adaptor and found out when I was trying to install the radio. Ordered one off of amazon and the guy shipped me one for a honda. Finally after almost a week I got an e-mail from him that he will ship me the correct one, so maybe I will have it by Friday.

You waste so much time d1cking around with all these things that don't go right.

 

Actually, the condenser and radiator were very clean. There were a couple bugs on the front, but I removed them. That was the one piece that's working ok. I found the thermostat was removed when I changed it out. Can't tell when that happened because I've had the Maxima in and out of a shop I use locally for the past 6 or 7 years. They may have done that when they changed the radiator or flushed it last time so it may have been like that at least a couple years. Maybe that's why my mileage hasn't been that great (not terrible, but it did dip).

Everything else seems to check out ok with no leaks and coolant temperature keeping steady at about 200 to 220. Since the thermostat doesn't open till 190 degrees this sounds about the right range for ECT. Outside temps have been in the mid 90's with higher than normal humidity.

One thing I do notice is when the RPM's go up on the car the coolant temperature drops. My only potential concern would be the water pump since it is original and the Max now has over 285,000 miles on it. I have kept the coolant maintained so I don't think there is wearing down of the fins on the pump.

 

Isn't that fun? I hate electrical projects like that, especially when you have to wait for a component or part. It seems to be hit and miss when buying that stuff on Amazon or Ebay in getting the exact part you need.

 

Could've just bought a new head unit .........

 

I believe he did. Hence the need for a line adapter.

 

..Few days Ago i picked up a car i been hunting for a LONG time.
6 speed! Currently have a auto 5.5 and a 6 speed now. Working out the kinks in the new; doesnt seem to be running where i "thought" it would be. My auto def. feels faster for some reason.

 

If you mean a Bose head unit - no. Not only no, but hell no!

A new Bose head unit goes for around $2,300.ohmygod USD. You can find them discounted for around $1900. Bend over and drop your drawers!

A used head unit will be between $100 and $200. The problem with a used head unit is that it is used. A 15 year old Bose isn't going to last long. The head unit I am replacing is one that I put in maybe a year ago, and now I'm replacing it.

My aftermarket Kenwood radio (with more features than the Bose), plus the PAC Roem adaptor, plus the antenna adapter cost me $155.

Bye bye bose.

 

Maybe the auto was a rare "automagic"

 

Well....where do I start. In the last week.


1. A/C compressor, drier, expansion valve, condenser.
2. OBX headers with my own 2.25....front bank, to 3.0 rear bank back Y pipe.
3. Self built dual O2sim to get rid of codes.
4. Chucked the MAF tube up in the lathe, and turned it out to 75mm....plenty of meat left.
5. Mounted 90degree soft plume nitrous nozzle in MAF tube.
6. Ordered parts to make return fuel system, so I can spray the rods out of it.
7. Ordered flex hone to port the upper and lower intake manifold. Or, rather hone the crap out of it....LOL
8 Installed smoked side markers on all 4 corners.....Look pretty good.


Next week, full custom 3" exhaust from where the rear bank hits the Y pipe.


Boredom therapy....

 

So did you find your rust-free, cherry '03 Titanium or did you settle?

 

Installed Obx headers (spent 20 hours hands on time). And had a friend install 3 inch high flow cat and 3 inch BRM catback last week.

 

New clutch is still in break in period. Got rid of a p0021 issue (replaced camshaft sensor) Seems to be running better. But biggest issue now is the mounts are absolutely toast. Only thing i can think of it power transfer is the issue. Has these surges while driving...i will report back once mounts and cv is fixed.

Thanks for remembering my car hunt. My .org family cares about me!
I ended up settling; its a 02 black on black loaded minus the nav (heated seats/steering etc). Got her fairly cheap, definitely rust free. Full time cali car. Slowly iv transferred some of my mods/things over from my automagic (Cotozic)
It has some minor issues to deal with which im on top of now. Overall im happy!! It is not my cherry manual tho. As with allll my preferred cars in the past i usually go thru a few to find my right and favorite one. Has happened with 3 miatas, 2 rl's, 2 sc300/400 among many others.. and now this 6mt being my 4th 5th gen so far. I still hunt almost daily to see if one pops up lol

 

^^ Congrats on the 6speed dude, but you do need to fix the fact that your auto is faster lol

get that new Maxima right!

As for myself, finally got some new wheels and will be using the stock wheels for winter time with winter tires. Here is a pic:

 

Thanks Vlad! yeah brody im working on figuring out my issues with the mt. I personally think its the motor mounts really; and the role they play in power transfer as i described above.
Your max is lookin' proppa with the new motegis!

 

I was driving and my car died.
The idle control valve has passed away. New one is like $190

My 27 year old bmw idle valve still works though. Hmm.

 

Out with the old in with the new



Unfortunately got a better look at my rad support, a little worse off than I thought it was from the front.

 

^You'll be set for a longgg while with a new one. Replacing both upper and lower rad hoses as well for peace of mind??
& that rad support seems to be pretty far gone.

 

Gave it a much needed bath. This rain wasnt enough help.