So, I have a few issues. 1st: my rear passenger side keeps going down faster (to the point of grinding without any usual wear notice) than any other set of pads on my car! I've replaced all pads when i first obtained the car at 114,000 and the fronts again at 220,000. Sad part is, somewhere in between, I had to replace that same rear passenger. And here I am again at 226,000 having to replace it again. What could be the issue???

2nd: the other side seems to never really wear down (I'm not really complaining) but its leading me to think I don't have a properly functioning brake system. I've taken it to the dealer, but they way because of my aftermarket wheels, they can't/won't do anything.... Of course that doesn't make sense but I didn't ask questions because I know how I can get.

So can anyone help me? Thanks in advance.

 

It sounds like guide pins are rusted on both sides.

 

Pass. rear sounds like seized pins and/or caliper. The pins should move easily when properly lubed with either Sil-Glyde or 3M silicone paste; caliper piston should retract without much force.

Driver rear's possibly a collapsed brake hose not providing fluid to compress the caliper piston. Check the piston and pins here as well. But keep in mind that rear brakes overall don't wear nearly as fast as the front.

Jack up the rear to get both wheels off the ground & disengage the parking brake. Have a helper press the brake pedal. You shouldn't be able to spin the back wheels now. Tell the helper to let off the pedal; wheels should freely spin by hand. Any resistance here = frozen brakes

 

Okay, found problem one on both sides. Both bottom guide pins weren't moving freely. So I lubed them up (replaced one with a new) and now that's good. Replaced the pads as well. So now the new issue is the driver rear is generating more heat, and a smell of burning fluid??? Also definitley worth mentioning that it was smoking profusely after a short calm drive...

 

Tested the calipers the way you suggested, all is well.

 

Does the left rear caliper piston move easily inward when turned?
Both sliders in good shape, lubricated properly, heads positioned correctly, and
slide easily in bracket?
Difficult to check the rubber hose on a screw in piston when hot, but if any question,
just replace the hose. Usually if a hose, the pads will heat up after brake usage, then
after sitting, the fluid returns to the master cylinder, pads will retract and the
cycle begins again. What can be done when hot, remove caliper and see if piston
moves inward easily, if not, loosen the bleeder and try again. If it now moves inward,
bad hose.