Andrew

iTrader: (5)

All,

Last night I replaced the passenger side control arm (with ball joint, etc) and since I never did this before, it took me and my dad quite a while. When looking at a video today, I saw that you can remove the 3 nuts under the front bushing which holds up the bolt that goes into the front of the LCA. What me and my dad did was to knock the LCA forward while we were under the car. It didn't take much to remove but is it necessary to remove those 3 bolts? I see its a bit easier but in a video someone said that you have to keep the LCA level while reinstalling the bolts so you can keep the alignment the same?

So my question is, do you take out the 3 bolts or just smash out the LCA?

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

WHAT?! You remove the castle nut, remove the big nut on the front, remove the big bolts on the swivel arm, then the two rear bolts around the bushing. It just drop out.

I just bolt the new one in. I don't see how it matters, b/c preload won't do anything. You will need an alignment probably if one was done with the bushings bad.

MichMaxFan

I've tried it like the op had done but found it better to unbolt the link pin because then the impact wrench takes off the nut with ease. Fitting wrenches on it on the car is tight without lots of ground clearance.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

I forgot the end link. That's the only hard part part, b/c of rust. Odds are it needs replaced, anyway. If it's a pain in the ***, I just cut it off, then work on the top one.

Yes, absolutely use an impact. There's no point even bothering with anything on a car without one. It's the best 150ish you'll ever spend.

Andrew

iTrader: (5)

That what I didn't do. Unbolt the big bolts from the swivel arm. My dad and I were using a long pipe and a sledge hammer to take the LCA off that long stem/bolt in the front with the bushing. I didn't know to take off the 3 bolts under the LCA.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, too much work with hand tools.

Andrew

iTrader: (5)

So we did it differently this time because on the driver side we couldn't get a ratchet to take off the big bolt in front of the LCA. We took down all the bolts and I can't say it was easier but it was better than hammering the LCA over that bolt. We needed a jack to hold the LCA up and then line up the bolts.
Thanks!

MichMaxFan

I've read where some have stripped the threads on the 4 bolts holding that pin on. While I've not had a problem, I've taken it easy and threaded them by hand quite a bit.

Be super careful on those bolts.

Andrew

iTrader: (5)

yea i wouldn't care about the bolts though cause I would have bought new ones but as long as the body/frame was in tact, we would still be golden

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Yeah start those link pin bolts by hand or make a real Pain in the A$$ for yourself...

MichMaxFan

Whatever you do........Just. Don't. Cross thread. Those. Bolts. And.The. Holes!!!!!!! ))))))))

Andrew

iTrader: (5)

I made sure to hand tighten the bolts almost all the way until I needed the ratchet for the last .5 inch or so

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

You can't cross thread them once you get them started! But if you don't tighten them evenly or mate/hold the link against the frame you could get the link to bid up if you're not paying attention and it gets cocked, especially with power tools! Good going Andrew!

reggut

One of my bolt holes was stripped when I removed my control arm pin. There were four bolts holding the control arm pin, I just put the three bolts back in place, leaving the stripped hole alone.


Do I go ahead and have my 4-wheel alignment, or go back and fix the stripped hole?

Andrew

iTrader: (5)

Not sure if you can fix that. Those holes are part of the chassis and might need someone to tap a new hole or a new chassis!

One of the veterans on the site here can probably answer that for you

reggut

Thanks for the offer.
I will leave the control arm pin with mounted with the three bolts and get the alignment. My reasoning is:
A) The control arm pin is not coming loose.
B) The control arm pin may shift from when I hit a hard bump; however, it would shift with all four bolts in place.
I'm going to plug the missing bolt hole with some electrician's putty, to keep the hole clean.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Heli coil with red thread locker....once that's cured install the bolt with anti-seize....It'll be stronger than OEM. Heli-coils are SS.