How To Reset Ecu
10-19-2010, 07:23 PM
#41
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 35
Go to dealer to get the ECU reset. Save yourself the headache.
Hello all,
I just had my 75k service done at my local Nissan last week. In the service package they cleaned the throttle body and MAF sensor. Then 2 days ago I was on my way back to Nissan to do a Nitro fill of my tires when the SES light came on. When I arrived at the dealer, I told the Service Mngr and he asked if I had placed the gas cap on tightly after my last fill up. My response.."I've had this car for 70k miles and never once seen this light come on and I'm pretty sure I know how to put on the gas cap." Anyhow, the tech tested the car...disconnected the battery...retested/drove the car and the light appeared again. Long story short...there is a electronic tool that they hook up to the car to get the "air volume flow...etc, etc..." reading reset. Apparently, by cleaning the throttle body...the car was getting choked out by an imbalance of air/fuel. So, for $105 the system was reset and all is fine now. Since I was on my way to the dealer...I can't say how long you can drive with this problem. I would imagine that highway speed trips would be ok.
I just had my 75k service done at my local Nissan last week. In the service package they cleaned the throttle body and MAF sensor. Then 2 days ago I was on my way back to Nissan to do a Nitro fill of my tires when the SES light came on. When I arrived at the dealer, I told the Service Mngr and he asked if I had placed the gas cap on tightly after my last fill up. My response.."I've had this car for 70k miles and never once seen this light come on and I'm pretty sure I know how to put on the gas cap." Anyhow, the tech tested the car...disconnected the battery...retested/drove the car and the light appeared again. Long story short...there is a electronic tool that they hook up to the car to get the "air volume flow...etc, etc..." reading reset. Apparently, by cleaning the throttle body...the car was getting choked out by an imbalance of air/fuel. So, for $105 the system was reset and all is fine now. Since I was on my way to the dealer...I can't say how long you can drive with this problem. I would imagine that highway speed trips would be ok.
10-20-2010, 02:10 PM
#43
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 35
NismoMax,
Yes, you know how the dealer will screw you. Of course, I think the Service Mgr was recouping for the free hub assembly he installed for me last month. So, in my head...when I calculated $150 plus labor (new hub assembly) - $105 (reset ECU) I didn't raise a stink. On top of that he gave me a free nitro fill on both my cars.
Though, I would suggest to anybody getting the throttle body and/or MAF cleaned...that they demand the "idle fuel air relearning" done as part of the service. Besides, avoiding the gas pedal & stop watch resetting procedure is worth MUCH more to me than $105.
Yes, you know how the dealer will screw you. Of course, I think the Service Mgr was recouping for the free hub assembly he installed for me last month. So, in my head...when I calculated $150 plus labor (new hub assembly) - $105 (reset ECU) I didn't raise a stink. On top of that he gave me a free nitro fill on both my cars.
Though, I would suggest to anybody getting the throttle body and/or MAF cleaned...that they demand the "idle fuel air relearning" done as part of the service. Besides, avoiding the gas pedal & stop watch resetting procedure is worth MUCH more to me than $105.
10-20-2010, 03:21 PM
#44
Nations 1st 6th Gen Turbo
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Displaced New Yorker in Southern, MD
Posts: 10,202
NismoMax,
Yes, you know how the dealer will screw you. Of course, I think the Service Mgr was recouping for the free hub assembly he installed for me last month. So, in my head...when I calculated $150 plus labor (new hub assembly) - $105 (reset ECU) I didn't raise a stink. On top of that he gave me a free nitro fill on both my cars.
Though, I would suggest to anybody getting the throttle body and/or MAF cleaned...that they demand the "idle fuel air relearning" done as part of the service. Besides, avoiding the gas pedal & stop watch resetting procedure is worth MUCH more to me than $105.
Yes, you know how the dealer will screw you. Of course, I think the Service Mgr was recouping for the free hub assembly he installed for me last month. So, in my head...when I calculated $150 plus labor (new hub assembly) - $105 (reset ECU) I didn't raise a stink. On top of that he gave me a free nitro fill on both my cars.
Though, I would suggest to anybody getting the throttle body and/or MAF cleaned...that they demand the "idle fuel air relearning" done as part of the service. Besides, avoiding the gas pedal & stop watch resetting procedure is worth MUCH more to me than $105.
11-07-2010, 06:38 AM
#46
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Holden, LA
Posts: 10
ECU Resetting Procedures
Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a seconds needle will be useful.
Operations Procedures
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ON and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to OFF position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.
Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a seconds needle will be useful.
Operations Procedures
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ON and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to OFF position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.
02-18-2011, 08:39 AM
#47
I know this thread is specifically about the check engine light, but since it has been mentioned several times now I'm going to ask my question. After installing my Pioneer head unit in my 04 SE last night and getting everything hooked back up and in place, the check engine light came on when I started the car. Should these two things be linked in any way? Should I try this reset procedure or is there something else wrong?
02-18-2011, 12:42 PM
#50
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 67
02-18-2011, 05:14 PM
#51
Hey guys I hope this is not rule breaking but, I am wondering if I reset my ECU will this help my System Settings.... I reset the tire rotation notification but when I restart my car it still gives me the notification, I have reset it about 20 times in 3 days. If I am breaking the thread rule I AM SORRY just annoyed at my max. Thank You for any help.
02-19-2011, 03:58 PM
#52
I unhooked the battery for roughly an hour while I installed my new Nismo CAI, which is AWESOME by the way! When I hooked it back up the light was still on. So I did the process outlined earlier, and it worked! It took about 3 attempts, the timing does have to be perfect but it worked.
02-19-2011, 05:19 PM
#53
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: inside my own mind
Posts: 1,506
That's kind of weird but I'm glad that you got to reset your ECU using the other way. You got any pics of the installed CAI or maybe even a video?
Well, it works for me. MIGHT take a couple of times (might just leave it off for an 1 1/2 sometimes) but one sure way that I know is when I re-connect the battery. The alarm would kick in..first time I found this out. It scared the living sh out of me LMAO!
Well, it works for me. MIGHT take a couple of times (might just leave it off for an 1 1/2 sometimes) but one sure way that I know is when I re-connect the battery. The alarm would kick in..first time I found this out. It scared the living sh out of me LMAO!
Last edited by 6.5affiliate; 02-19-2011 at 05:21 PM.
02-19-2011, 06:18 PM
#55
Didn't want to highjack this thread.
06-08-2011, 10:30 AM
#57
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 2
Works perfect now - Everything is back to normal. It's been 3 weeks and no problem. Yes - Timing is everything. I did this about 7 times before I got it right. I know now not to clean the throttle body!
06-08-2011, 11:05 AM
#58
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Wyncote, PA
Posts: 22
06-08-2011, 11:14 AM
#59
06-08-2011, 04:12 PM
#60
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 92
think i saw someone ask about how to drive after the ECU reset for the best map.
the deal with the resetting the ECU is this. There is a segment of memory that will get cleared out by resetting the ECU. This segment holds info for fuel mapping, airflow, etc... based on your driving style, and is continuously updated and averaged.
So, as you can probably guess, unless you floor the car from every stop, and constantly drive 100mph, that memory will eventually get populated by a descent representation of your "overall" driving style.
If you always drive conservatively, never really give it too much throttle, don't go much above the speed limit, then you will end up with a map that simulates this. On the other hand, if you always have your foot "in the gas", you will end up with a more aggressive map. If you have a conservative map, the car will seem slower to respond if you do want to get on it, and vice versa. Some people say they don't notice any change when resetting the ECU, some say it is quite noticeable, so the overall health of the vehicle comes into play here as well.
so short story is, if you drive your car more aggressively on a daily basis, your car will be faster. but at what price? wear and tear, and fuel cost.
the deal with the resetting the ECU is this. There is a segment of memory that will get cleared out by resetting the ECU. This segment holds info for fuel mapping, airflow, etc... based on your driving style, and is continuously updated and averaged.
So, as you can probably guess, unless you floor the car from every stop, and constantly drive 100mph, that memory will eventually get populated by a descent representation of your "overall" driving style.
If you always drive conservatively, never really give it too much throttle, don't go much above the speed limit, then you will end up with a map that simulates this. On the other hand, if you always have your foot "in the gas", you will end up with a more aggressive map. If you have a conservative map, the car will seem slower to respond if you do want to get on it, and vice versa. Some people say they don't notice any change when resetting the ECU, some say it is quite noticeable, so the overall health of the vehicle comes into play here as well.
so short story is, if you drive your car more aggressively on a daily basis, your car will be faster. but at what price? wear and tear, and fuel cost.
Last edited by revvinMAXto11; 06-08-2011 at 04:15 PM.
06-10-2011, 03:31 PM
#61
I use an OBD2 scanning tool. I erase the memory with the scanner. All it does is reset the sensors used to make these "maps". Best way IMHO. I also have a quick battery disconnect, which I used to use, but have found does not reset all the sensors unless you leave it off for an extended period of time. With the scan tool, I can have it done in about 30 seconds.
05-06-2013, 09:06 PM
#62
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 29
Excuse me for a second please. My car is missing pretty badly but my check engine light (I belive it is aka SES light) is not on. Do I even want to attempt a code check or reset. Is there a certain procedure page in FSM someone can refer me to?
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