PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) Valve
#1
PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) Valve
PCV Valve replacement is recommended every 30k. Like any maintenance it is debatable if you're conservative or liberal with how often you replace parts...
regardless, anyone know off hand what's involved? Can't find any help. Even the FSM is no help. I understand it is located somewhere on the rear of the engine on the driver's side...
a write up would be great, or tips and I can write it up after I swap mine out.
Thanks!
regardless, anyone know off hand what's involved? Can't find any help. Even the FSM is no help. I understand it is located somewhere on the rear of the engine on the driver's side...
a write up would be great, or tips and I can write it up after I swap mine out.
Thanks!
#3
so i might as wait until I change my spark plugs...
parts guy at dealer told me driver side. although the FSM looked like possibly passenger side. But still not clear enough for me to jump into this little project and get right at it. Just don't enjoy removing parts and searching for a part blindly.
any other input?
I'm hoping more become aware of this maintentance item since i see little to no discussion about it.
parts guy at dealer told me driver side. although the FSM looked like possibly passenger side. But still not clear enough for me to jump into this little project and get right at it. Just don't enjoy removing parts and searching for a part blindly.
any other input?
I'm hoping more become aware of this maintentance item since i see little to no discussion about it.
#5
thanks Terrentius for the pics.
If you pick up a valve you can easily recognize it under the hose. Looks like only the cover needs to be removed to access the hose...
Last edited by NismoMax80; 10-29-2010 at 01:11 PM.
#8
Well alot of people dont think about this , if you change manifolds as much as I do you will also notice that the PCV will also cause blow by oil,
if you open up the VIAS plate you will more than likely see alot of oil inside the intake manifold.
there hose route from PCV to the intake manifold.
for some you can run a DIY mini catch can to catch the oil before it goes into the manifold, or you can drilled out the PCV for the catch can.
if you dont want to do either, just replace the PCV as its a routine mainitance
DIY catch can mod :
http://my350z.com/forum/engine-drive...catch-can.html
http://my350z.com/forum/engine-drive...n-diy-pix.html
But to get to the PCV , you need to pull off the manifold off , and you might as well change the plugs while your back there
if you open up the VIAS plate you will more than likely see alot of oil inside the intake manifold.
there hose route from PCV to the intake manifold.
for some you can run a DIY mini catch can to catch the oil before it goes into the manifold, or you can drilled out the PCV for the catch can.
if you dont want to do either, just replace the PCV as its a routine mainitance
DIY catch can mod :
http://my350z.com/forum/engine-drive...catch-can.html
http://my350z.com/forum/engine-drive...n-diy-pix.html
But to get to the PCV , you need to pull off the manifold off , and you might as well change the plugs while your back there
#9
2007 slightly different?
I recently had to replace mine and talk about a P.I.A.. First I had to removed the windshield wipers, plastic cowl piece and finally a metal crossmember right about the firewall to have enough space to get my hands in there. By looking at the picture you guys have posted, it doesn't seem like the 2006 and down models had this problem. Correct me if I'm wrong. Here are some pics to show you what I'm talking about.
#12
Changed my PCV valve out today..wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. The pics from Houstonhulk made the difference in my morale to this task. Props to him.
Now for a question to him. When I took the cowl off, there was this strange floppy piece of rubber with two clips on it. It was just laying there. I assume it has a proper place to go. Any ideas?
Now for a question to him. When I took the cowl off, there was this strange floppy piece of rubber with two clips on it. It was just laying there. I assume it has a proper place to go. Any ideas?
#16
Well, I am at 60k and my PCV valve was pretty gummed up. I also had a pretty rough idle. I will probably do mine now at every 30k interval.
Give this a read to clarify justification: www.filtercouncil.org/techdata/tsbs/94-2R1.pdf
Give this a read to clarify justification: www.filtercouncil.org/techdata/tsbs/94-2R1.pdf
#17
You're saying you did it at 60k, and it cleared up a rough idle?
Interesting.
What's the best place to get one of these, dealership, or any auto parts store should have adequate replacements? Is there an online source anyone would like to recomend?
Interesting.
What's the best place to get one of these, dealership, or any auto parts store should have adequate replacements? Is there an online source anyone would like to recomend?
#18
I should've done this a month or 2 ago when the weather was warmer lol -- completely forgot about it since Advance Auto's website doesnt even have a PCV valve listed for the 07
Autozone shows $16
Pepboys $23
NAPA $12
O'reillys has one for $9 and another for $11 so I'll go pick one up from there and hopefully try to replace it this Friday (should hit 55 deg so not too bad)
Autozone shows $16
Pepboys $23
NAPA $12
O'reillys has one for $9 and another for $11 so I'll go pick one up from there and hopefully try to replace it this Friday (should hit 55 deg so not too bad)
Last edited by Jatan; 11-17-2010 at 11:49 AM.
#19
I assume you can just pci one up an Auto Zone, Napa or even the dealership. They are not that expensive.
#21
Do it now, bro. The hardest part is taking off the wiper-arms if you can call that hard. Pop those puppies off, pull off the plastic part to the cowl, then the metal cross beam and you are good to go. Took me under an hour.
#24
OK. I know this thread is old but I just wanted to add some things for people attempting this as a DIY project. Definitely not a hard one to pull off. You need a 10mm socket with a 6" extension for the 16 bolts that hold the cowl support in place. You also need a 15/16" deep-well socket to pull the pcv valve out with. Also, be careful when removing the plastic cowl as the clips that hold it in place are designed to stay put and the cowl slide off of them in one specific direction. I believe the one on the drivers side clips in from the drivers side and the other two clip in place from the passenger side. Don't pull straight up on them as they will snap and you will have a leaky seal around the windshield.
Also, check the hose from the pcv valve to the intake. Mine was split and so I replaced it with a short section of 3/8" fuel hose I had laying around.
Good Luck.
JB
Also, check the hose from the pcv valve to the intake. Mine was split and so I replaced it with a short section of 3/8" fuel hose I had laying around.
Good Luck.
JB
#26
Random question for you guys, but I replaced my pcv valve. Now with the engine running, I could hear the air moving through it. Sounds like a vacuum leak even though i know there isnt one. Normal or is it supposed to be quite at idle?
#28
what are the advantages of replacing the PCV valve? is it just a piece of mind or does letting it go hinder performance? when i installed my BOP i looked into my IM and it was as clean as a whistle in there.
#29
Two reasons:
1-Relieves pressure inside the crank case. Too much pressure brings on blown head-gaskets and the like. Think about the weakest link in the crankcase...it is gonna give if your PCV valve is not function properly. When the force of pressure exceeds the force of the parts holding your crankcase together, then you gots a wee problem.
2-It redirects both moisture, brought in through the air intake, and gasoline, both of which blow-by the piston rings, back into the combustion chamber to be burnt off. In fact, there is a considerable amount of both that gets past the piston-rings into the crank case. You don't want moisture in there cause it will cause rust inside the crankcase, and you don't want gasoline in there because it breaks down oil, which is self explanatory.
This is why your change your PCV valve.
This is also why you should change your oil regularly. Your oil changes color because of the dirt, moisture and gasoline getting by the piston-rings, due to blow-by, into the crank case. Changing your oil infrequently is just asking for trouble. This aforementioned gets past your piston-rings and there is no way around it. So, change your PCV valve and change out your oil regularly and you will get the best of your engine for as long as possible.
1-Relieves pressure inside the crank case. Too much pressure brings on blown head-gaskets and the like. Think about the weakest link in the crankcase...it is gonna give if your PCV valve is not function properly. When the force of pressure exceeds the force of the parts holding your crankcase together, then you gots a wee problem.
2-It redirects both moisture, brought in through the air intake, and gasoline, both of which blow-by the piston rings, back into the combustion chamber to be burnt off. In fact, there is a considerable amount of both that gets past the piston-rings into the crank case. You don't want moisture in there cause it will cause rust inside the crankcase, and you don't want gasoline in there because it breaks down oil, which is self explanatory.
This is why your change your PCV valve.
This is also why you should change your oil regularly. Your oil changes color because of the dirt, moisture and gasoline getting by the piston-rings, due to blow-by, into the crank case. Changing your oil infrequently is just asking for trouble. This aforementioned gets past your piston-rings and there is no way around it. So, change your PCV valve and change out your oil regularly and you will get the best of your engine for as long as possible.
Last edited by Terrentius; 08-11-2011 at 07:58 AM.
#30
PCV VALVE REPLACEMENT
GUYS YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE ANY COWLS OR MANIFOLD COVERS TO REPLACE THE VALVE... I USED A 23MM SOCKET, A UNIVERSAL JOINT AND A SMALL EXTENSION TO REPLACE MINE. IT TOOK ABOUT 15 MINUTES TO COMPLETE AND I DIDNT REMOVE ANY OF THE MENTIONED ABOVE PARTS. JUST REMOVE THE 2 ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS AND DONT WORRY ABOUT MIXING THEM UP, THEY ARE FOOLPROOF.. ONE IS A 6 PIN AND THE OTHER IS A 8 PIN, THEN REMOVE THE HOSE FROM THE MANIFOLD AND THEM OFF OF THE VALVE AND PUT THE WRENCH ON AND REMOVE.. ITS THAT EASY, THE ONLY THING I RECOMMEND IS THAT YOU DO IT WHEN THE ENGINE IS COOL, I DID WHEN IT WAS HOT AND BURNED MY HAND... I KNOW I'M DUMB
#31
when you say universal joint do you mean like a 3/8" or 1/2" swivel joint? damn, im thinkin i should do this now. i have an 04 with ~101k. and what sucks is like 2 months ago, i did spark plugs and NWP spacers it wouldve been cake walk then id bet.
#32
GUYS YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE ANY COWLS OR MANIFOLD COVERS TO REPLACE THE VALVE... I USED A 23MM SOCKET, A UNIVERSAL JOINT AND A SMALL EXTENSION TO REPLACE MINE. IT TOOK ABOUT 15 MINUTES TO COMPLETE AND I DIDNT REMOVE ANY OF THE MENTIONED ABOVE PARTS. JUST REMOVE THE 2 ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS AND DONT WORRY ABOUT MIXING THEM UP, THEY ARE FOOLPROOF.. ONE IS A 6 PIN AND THE OTHER IS A 8 PIN, THEN REMOVE THE HOSE FROM THE MANIFOLD AND THEM OFF OF THE VALVE AND PUT THE WRENCH ON AND REMOVE.. ITS THAT EASY, THE ONLY THING I RECOMMEND IS THAT YOU DO IT WHEN THE ENGINE IS COOL, I DID WHEN IT WAS HOT AND BURNED MY HAND... I KNOW I'M DUMB
#33
I do mean a swivel joint or universal joint and i had to use a 1/2'' drive because the 23mm socket was a 1/2''... and guys YOU CAN GET YOUR HAND OR HANDS IN THERE to replace it. Sorry to you guys who had to remove parts to replace it.
#34
Yes, you should have plenty of room if you are driving anything before an 07/08. If you, however, own an 07/08, then you are most likely going to have to take the cowl off, unless of course you are a midget-contortionist
#35
Ok know this is an old Thread guys and I’m bringing it back!
I did the 3.5 swap on my 97, the rear pcv I want to bring to a catch can and go back into the manifold. I’m supercharged so I don’t want blow by oils getting into my manifold.
The front crank case is just a fresh air intake when the rear pvc vents, correct?
If that’s the case, I only need to run a hose before the throttle body or any fresh air source. I have a dual catch can, for front crank case I’m thinking out routing the the hose out the front crank case, through the catch can, and back to a fresh air source. This way any gases are flowing through the catch can first before going back into the engine. Or now that I’m thinking out loud maybe I don’t need a catch can for the front crank case since it’s just fresh air in.
That sound right to anyone?
I did the 3.5 swap on my 97, the rear pcv I want to bring to a catch can and go back into the manifold. I’m supercharged so I don’t want blow by oils getting into my manifold.
The front crank case is just a fresh air intake when the rear pvc vents, correct?
If that’s the case, I only need to run a hose before the throttle body or any fresh air source. I have a dual catch can, for front crank case I’m thinking out routing the the hose out the front crank case, through the catch can, and back to a fresh air source. This way any gases are flowing through the catch can first before going back into the engine. Or now that I’m thinking out loud maybe I don’t need a catch can for the front crank case since it’s just fresh air in.
That sound right to anyone?
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4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
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