Correct!
The premium package have dimming drivers and center rear review mirror, while non premium SVs only have the center rear review mirror.

 

Thanks Ricko, ill get the car checked out on monday hopefully its something little.

 

You are welcome, and good luck!

 

lol alright another one. Manual says break in period dont go over 4000 rpm first 1200 miles not a problem i haven't gone over 2500 yet. but it also says dont drive at a constant speed for extended period of time.
well my main route is highways and such about an hour drive.
so should i be in the right lane just jumping from 5 under the speed limit to 10 over randomly?


sorry if i ask too many questions, i just want to get everything right.

 

Every driver is different, but here is how I handle this:

This is not a critical point, and many drivers are not even aware of this reccommendation to avoid constant speed during breakin. You should be fine if you simply drive at the speed limit for five or ten minutes, then two or three MPH over or under the speed limit for a minute or two, then back to the speed limit for five to ten more minutes, and simply keep repeating this cycle.

This is best done smoothly, not abruptly. Very gradually let the speed float to two or three MPH over or under the speed limit, then let it very gradually float back. Do this once every five or ten miles and you should be fine.

This varying of speed is a good practice during breakin, but is not a rigid thing. Do not let accomplishing this speed variance cause you to do anything that interferes with the smooth flow of traffic. If you are in fairly heavy traffic that is traveling at the about same speed, it is fine to skip varying your speed at times. The important thing is to not get on a long freeway trip and set the car on cruise control and stay at the same speed for very long periods.

It is much more important to limit time over 4K RPMs, limit wide-open throttle takeoffs and go a little easy on the brakes during the breakin period. Soon after I buy my car, I find a parking lot or other place where I can repeatedly use the brakes gently in order to have all the parts form a good fit. I also check the tire pressure and oil level and condition fairly frequently during the first few thousand miles, just in case there is a problem of some sort.

I don't let the 1200 mile breakin period be the end of my breakin. After 1200 miles, I avoid exceeding 5K RPMs and limit wide-open throttle takeoffs right up to 2400 miles. Yes, I tend to baby my Maximas.

 

Sounds like very good advice above!!! I try to do the same on all my new vehicles. Sometimes its hard to follow the break in period but it pays out in the long run i feel.

 

Yes there is one from 2009 that I started. But that was before the colors of the 2010 were released.

http://forums.maxima.org/7th-generat...09-maxima.html

 

when i press the gas pedal it feels a little weird. i dont know how to describe it. its like when the abs kicks in on the brakes pedal but its 1/100th of that. so its not a pushback in the gas pedal but a really tiny clicking feeling(not a sound) when im driving on a brand new paved surface. its not that it affects my driving its just weird and was wondering if it was like that for anyone else or does everyone have a smooth feeling when hitting the gas.


also my rpm jumps from like 1500 to 3000 when i hit this hill on my way back home everyday. ive driven down a few other hills and it never happens just that one hill. it is kind of steep and does come out of nowhere though that might be why

 

I can feel the suspension friction in the gas pedal. Not sure if this is what you are refering to nycmets718 but seems the only thing that i feel or hear. I have 275 miles so far on my 2010 maxima. No clicking noises at all. Its almost more like a vibration in the gas pedal, seems like i feel the road/ground. Not complaining here becouse is doesnt seem anything is wrong. I love my 2010 MaX!!!

 

yea you describe it a little better, but thanks i guess nothing to worry about

 

Does the Bose amp cut power to the 6x9s at high volumes? Reason I ask is because I have an aftermarket sub/amp running off of the 6x9s and my sub seems strong at low volumes but loses loudness at high volumes. It seemed louder in my previous car.

 

I did a search, no luck. I don't know if its a setting issue or what, but it was working fine up until about two days ago. The lines come up on the display, but just a black screen. Anyone have this issue or know how to resolve it? Thanks.

Mike

 

First time this has been reported here. This is not a setting issue, and not a 'reverse' gear sensor issue. Has to be either the wire/connection to the camera or the camera itself malfunctioning.

 

This is very odd. I parked my 2010 Maxima in the garage last night, absolutely certain that all of the windows were closed. We had a very severe storm late last night and a lightning bolt struck very close to our home resulting in a power failure. When I went to get into the Maxima this morning, both front door windows were down (open)! Could that have been caused somehow by the lightning storm? Has anyone else ever experienced anything like this? If it had been parked out on the driveway last night the interior would have been a lake. Any thoughts?

 

The windows can be rolled down by holding the unlock button the key fob. Probably did it by accident.

 

Be glad you weren't parked outside.

 

Thank you! I had no idea that the key fob did that. Likely happened when the key was in my pocket. Could have been a rather painful disaster.

 

If it is any consolation, many here have had that same thing happen. A few got water in their car. Several have put their fobs in flexible rubber sheaths, which seems to reduce the chances of this happening. I solved the problem by wearing nothing but very relaxed (baggy) pants.

 

I bought 2010 Maxima a couple das ago, and I notice that when I turn lights on, everylights inside door lock control was on except for the unlock button. Lock butoon light was on with kind of red color but unlock door button. Is this normal or my car is defected? I also notice when AC is on, RPM is moving just a little bit, is every Maximas same way?

 

Yes to both questions.

The lock button lighting was discussed here over a year ago, and that thread is now probably in ancient archives. I do recall it was logically explained.

While we have the AC system on, it automatically cycles the compressor on and off as needed, and every time this happens, I see a very slight twitch in the RPMs. That is because getting the big AC compressor turning from standstill puts an additional load on the engine, but only for a very brief instant.

 

 

Doctor P - a few (very few) of us actually have cars where the front windows roll down completely by themselves.

At first I thought it was me mishandling the fob also, but quickly ruled that out. At work, I could see my car in the parking lot 1/10mi away and the windows would be up one minute and down the next. This happened at home and at work 5x over two days.

I took it to the dealer and left it, and the windows rolled down by themselves there, too. They said they had seen it just once before on an Altima, and the only thing they knew to stop it was to disable the auto-down function from the fob.

So although it was technically not the fob itself, the car "thought" the fob was sending the signal to roll down the windows.

I live in the city and didn't want to risk vandalism or water damage, so I just had them disable it without pursuing it further.

 

Very interesting! I was not aware we have a few cars where the windows went down by themselves with no real signal from the fob. Not good at all.

 

Wow. That can't be good.

I really hope that your dealer did more than just disable the fob function. That's BS!

 

I have a 2009 sv with sport and monitor pkg. I'm getting tints. I want cold air intake and springs. What's the best sounding CAI and best riding (closest to stock sport pkg ride) springs. I don't wanna slam it and I don't want to mess up the handling (not bouncy). Will springs improve the sport pkg handling or mess up what nissan spent millions developing?

 

well as you have the sport pkg, the springs will improve the handling more

 

Hey guys,

New to the forum and I just wanted to get your guys opinion on something. I had the factory spoiler installed today on my 2010 Maxima SV, looks great but the dealer did not remove third brake light on the rear deck. Both lights come on when the brake pedal is depressed. My question is should I take it back and have it removed, or just leave it? It really doesn't look bad, but would it be kinda dorky to leave it? I guess it does improve visibility, especially for trucks that may be behind you. Thanks in advance for any input.

 

id have em take it off.. imho it looks tacky n the whole world doesnt need to know ur car didnt orginally come with a spoiler n by having the second light there makes it obvious but thats juss me

 

I'm more into practicality than style, so I might be tempted to leave it.

BUT

Removing the shelf-mounted third brake light and covering the resulting hole with the OEM cover that is used on cars that come with OEM spoiler IS SUPPOSED TO BE PART OF INSTALLING THE NEW SPOILER.

Your dealer should have either done that automatically, or at least asked you if you wanted that done before he even started installing the new spoiler.

 

@ kmoney, thanks your ride is sick brother. So what spring would you suggest to keep the ride stock-ish? Eibach seem like the king but then I hear h&r are good as well. I just want her to sit pretty and ride the way she does now. Do u think Y pipes are worth it? I thought the my max's exhaust would sound like g35 or fx35 but its wimpy. It has the look but not the sound. Cai and y pipe fix that?

 

So I have gone from confused to reassured now to nervous. Am I not supposed to leave my beautiful car out in the rain?!

Did they disable the fob or do something to the car itself to keep it from happening? Seems to me if it is the CAR that "thinks" the fob was sending a signal, disabling the fob itself would make no difference. You'd have to disable the CAR where it "thinks."

 

The command was definitely coming from the FOB. There's a thread here somewhere about accidentally setting off the alarm while the FOB is in a pocket. I've set mine off several times accidentally. I've never rolled the windows down though.

the "auto down" feature is standard on SV's on the front windows (rears too if you have the premium package). You hold down the unlock for 3 seconds (might be 5) and they'll roll down partially, continue to hold it and they'll go all the way down.

Doctor,

The dealers can interface with the vehicles computer, via the CONSULT III system, and change a myriad of settings. In his case, it sounds like they merely disabled the autodown feature.

The buttons are VERY easy to depress while the FOB is in your pocket, especially if you have anything other than the FOB in your pocket.

There's no disabling the commands sent from the FOB to the car required. The way the car responds to those commands is altered.

 

How long would it take a mechanic to install springs? Should this be done at Nissan dealer?

 

Hi,

I have been in the market for an 09 Maxima. Looking for Precision Grey.

There's one that is fully loaded with 14k miles on it and the internet sales manager is stuck at 28.5k.

I am getting quoted from other dealerships 28.5k for a brand new 2010 maxima SV.

I don't understand. Am I missing something? Why can't I get the used car lower?

Thanks!

 

Probably because selling the new one is more important to the dealer since the '11s are coming soon. They don't wanna be stuck with 2 new model years.

 

ya i have noticed the prices for brand new are amazing when you think about what the used are being listed at

 

We have to be able to compare apples to apples, etc.

You said the '09 you are looking at is fully loaded. That could mean many things. If it has the Premium package and Navi package, then the original MSRP was right at $40,000. It would have been difficult to get the price on that car below $34,600 new at most dealers. If the car you are looking at has the Premium and Navi, and is in really good shape, then $28.5 could be a good price, especially with 22,000 miles left on the warranty.

Or the car may have the Sports package and Navi. $28.5 would be an OK price for that combo.

But if the '09 you are looking at has neither the Premium or Sports package, $28.5 is definitely too high.

As a quick reference, the base price of an '09 SV was around $32,860. Adding the Premium package adds around $3,500 (you will know the car has the Premium package if it has the double panel roof). Adding the Sports package adds about $2,300 (the Sports package is detectable by the 19" wheels and tires). Adding the Technology (Navigation) package to a base SV adds $2,400; adding it to an SV with Sport package adds $2,250; adding it to a Premium package adds $1,850.

I can guarantee you the new SV other dealers will let you have for $28,500 does not have either the Premium package or the Sport package, and probably not the Technology package.

You need to get the Maxima brochure from the dealer and study the contents of these three packages before committing yourself to a purchase. A Maxima with the Premium and Technology packages is a totally different (and more upscale) vehicle than a base SV.

The three packages are fairly similar from 2009 through 2011, so any recent Maxima brochure will suffice for your purposes. Also, as Car Addict correctly pointed out, the dealers are giving very good deals right now on the '10 Maximas, because the '11s are arriving at dealers this month.

 

Thanks for the replies. Big help.

The Car has sport, sport tech and premium package. They are asking 28.5k.

If I could get them down to 26.5k I would grab it in a heart beat...

 

You can't have Sport and Premium packages. You can have one or the other but not both. However you can have either package with the technology package.

 

Okay, thanks.

Then I believe it has tech and premium package.