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Wiring is finished. You can see the wiring in the doors in the posts I made yesterday. Today I worked in the trunk, completing the hook-ups to my amps and tucking all the wires into their final places. This first photo is of the driver's side of the trunk, with all the finishers removed showing the wiring to the JL Audio FIX.
Here is the other side of the trunk, the passenger's side. I mounted the TwK D8 on this side. I have a TOS-link digital cable connecting the FIX and the TwK. I also keep a long USB cable connected to the TwK in case I want to make changes. That way I don't have to take the trunk finisher out to connect to the TwK.
And here we are with all the finishers and carpet reinstalled. All the wires are hidden. Now that all my wiring is finally finished my immediate task is to fine tune my DSP. My next two improvements will be noise control (sound deadening mat) and proper woofers for the rear deck. If tweaking DSP fixes my weak bass a bit, noise control will be first, otherwise woofers are next up.
Why, thank you. I checked out your install, too. Great work on your car. Mine doesn't sound quite right yet. I have all kinds of tweaking to do with crossovers, delays and level boosts and cuts. Then, there's EQ...
I got my amps' gains balanced. Unfortunately, I picked a gain that's way too hot. I compensated for that by cutting output from the DSP units. Everything sounds much better, bass especially is more present. I'm really impressed with how much the antique JL Audio Evolution 6.5" mid/woofers are capable of. I'll spend some time this weekend cutting the gain and rebalancing so I can put everything back to "level" in my DSP and I can use more of my pre-amp output level.
I spent some more time in the trunk today. I reset the input gains on my amps and balanced them a bit better. I tweaked the settings in my DSP and now everything sounds pretty good. I hope the store I go to has a spectrum analyzer, I'd like to apply some EQ, but don't really want to do it "blind". Next up, sound deadening mat. That might have to wait a while, though: it's too cold to install that stuff and my garage isn't heated.
Edit: Hmm....I uploaded the photos using the website's handy-dandy feature but it isn't working for some reason.
The bass adjustment control **** is installed just to the right of the heated steering wheel on/off switch on the dash.
With this **** I can control the bass from a nice subtle compliment to the music or crank it to max where the bass will cleanly overpower the music.
The Amp is an entry level JL 12" sub in a JL pre-fab enclosure.
The amp is a JL JX250/1D.
The interface that allows me to keep the factory headunit, bose amp and bose speakers is an LC2i.
The system gets louder than I can handle listening to for any extended period of time...and that's not because I'm "old".
The sound quality is clean enough for my tastes, especially in a car!
The Maxima factory system was REALLY lacking bass. Whether you want to rattle the mirrors or provide a nice compliment to the music, I think this is a must upgrade.
Last edited by CerOf; 01-11-2019 at 10:40 AM.
Reason: Photos Not Showing
Edit: Hmm....I uploaded the photos using the website's handy-dandy feature but it isn't working for some reason.
The bass adjustment control **** is installed just to the right of the heated steering wheel on/off switch on the dash.
With this **** I can control the bass from a nice subtle compliment to the music or crank it to max where the bass will cleanly overpower the music.
The Amp is an entry level JL 12" sub in a JL pre-fab enclosure.
The amp is a JL JX250/1D.
The interface that allows me to keep the factory headunit, bose amp and bose speakers is an LC2i.
The system gets louder than I can handle listening to for any extended period of time...and that's not because I'm "old".
The sound quality is clean enough for my tastes, especially in a car!
The Maxima factory system was REALLY lacking bass. Whether you want to rattle the mirrors or provide a nice compliment to the music, I think this is a must upgrade.
That's good to hear, I was wondering what I was going to do because I really like the infotainment screen/controls/etc and didn't want to lose that but the bass is so anemic. No punch at all. My old car was a 2008 Hyundai Azera and I didn't even think about getting a sub because the bass was so much better than the Maxima. Those infinity speakers sounded a lot better than the Bose too. Can I ask how much you paid including installation?
It was about $850 out the door. You could use a different brand of sub or amp. JL fetches a premium price.
I bought a 12" JBL sub/box with amp for my 96 Maxima in the late 90's for around 600 installed so that seems pretty reasonable and less than I thought you were going to say, thanks.
Edit: Hmm....I uploaded the photos using the website's handy-dandy feature but it isn't working for some reason.
The bass adjustment control **** is installed just to the right of the heated steering wheel on/off switch on the dash.
With this **** I can control the bass from a nice subtle compliment to the music or crank it to max where the bass will cleanly overpower the music.
The Amp is an entry level JL 12" sub in a JL pre-fab enclosure.
The amp is a JL JX250/1D.
The interface that allows me to keep the factory headunit, bose amp and bose speakers is an LC2i.
The system gets louder than I can handle listening to for any extended period of time...and that's not because I'm "old".
The sound quality is clean enough for my tastes, especially in a car!
The Maxima factory system was REALLY lacking bass. Whether you want to rattle the mirrors or provide a nice compliment to the music, I think this is a must upgrade.
CerOf and Carp,
Here's my guess about what Car Toys did: they took the signal to the speakers in the rear deck (probably by splicing into the speaker wires so your rear deck speakers are still active) of your Maxima and fed it to the LC2i, which will give a line-level output. The line-level bass signal they fed to the new JL Audio JX250 amp, which they then wired to your new sub enclosure. Car Toys would also have had to run a new power cable from the battery to the JX250. Then they installed the sub controller in your dash.
I'll bet your stereo sounds much much better. It's a pretty simple thing to replace the 6"x9" speakers in the front doors with new 6"x9" speakers with actual tweeters rather than just whizzer cones. Perhaps that's your next upgrade? No wiring or new amps required.
I've had a stock of Noico mat in my garage for several weeks, waiting for a Saturday warm enough to install it without a heat gun. I made that mistake when I installed DynaMat in my old car years and years ago. It didn't adhere well. Here's a photo of the driver's door with the Noico mat installed. I also have it on the inside surface of the outer panel, but I didn't get a decent photo of that (too dark inside the door cavity for a good photo). On Sunday I got the two passenger-side doors done before it started to rain. I have the driver's side rear door and rear deck to do. As Tommy70 said in his thread, the Noico is effective, even with only three doors done, I think my car is noticeably quieter inside. Noico deadening mat in the driver's door.
After I'm done with my original plan (doors and rear deck) I'll decide if I want to expand my effort to include the floor "boards". I think I have significant tire noise coming in through the floor, although it is much reduced with the doors being insulated.
A note about Noico: I read all kinds of customer comments on Amazon before buying the Noico. There are lots of negative comments about Noico being cheap and having thin foil that tears easily. I didn't notice that the foil tore EASILY, but I did tear it in a few places. My thoughts about the Noico are it is not state-of-the-art mat, it is old fashioned, brute force mass damping. It adds weight to the panels it is applied to and reduces the resonant frequency of those panels and reduces the amplitude of vibrations. If you want state-of-the-art constrained layer dampening material, you need to step up to DynaMat or Hush Mat.
I decided against that because in my old car and I original DynaMat (no longer available) and it was just fine. It did what I wanted it to do.
Anything done in terms of sound insulation is a win for the owner! In the past I have used FATMAT with great success in the doors. For me the the DYNAMAT product was just too expensive and offered very little improvement. An easy task is to pull the rear sea bottom and add carpet padding to the floor area. ( Or FATMAT) Also added dense foam padding under the rear spare tire area floor panel .
Originally Posted by macdonjh
A note about Noico: I read all kinds of customer comments on Amazon before buying the Noico. There are lots of negative comments about Noico being cheap and having thin foil that tears easily. I didn't notice that the foil tore EASILY, but I did tear it in a few places. My thoughts about the Noico are it is not state-of-the-art mat, it is old fashioned, brute force mass damping. It adds weight to the panels it is applied to and reduces the resonant frequency of those panels and reduces the amplitude of vibrations. If you want state-of-the-art constrained layer dampening material, you need to step up to DynaMat or Hush Mat.
I decided against that because in my old car and I original DynaMat (no longer available) and it was just fine. It did what I wanted it to do.
I finally took the time to add Noico sound damping mat to the rear deck and driver's side passenger door. That finishes the basic sound damping effort for my car. I'm pretty convinced most of the sound is coming in through the floor boards and fire wall. I'll look into what it takes to pull the carpet up. Someday. Noico mat on the rear deck. A glare-hampered view of the rear deck with the Noico mat.
For the rear door, I did the same thing as for the other doors: covered the inside of the outer panel as completely as I could and covered the part inner panel that is covered by the door finisher. Photos of similar work are in earlier posts, no new photos.
Can anyone tell me which wire is positive In rear deck
Originally Posted by logicallysick
Glad I was able to help. I was in the same situation at when I first got mine. I wanted to install my setup from my 2012 Altima Coupe asap. Nice write up by the way, looking forward to see what you do.
Hey curious I have Green and White at the speaker in the rear deck 2018 SV, can you tell me positive and negative? Plan on installing my LC2i and tapping off the rear deck wires, thank you
Update to my old thread: it was time for new tires this weekend. I hated the OEM Continentals, now my car adheres to the ground with Yokohama. Much improved cabin sound. The Yokohamas do a better job of absorbing road noise and shifting it down in frequency and amplitude. It isn't nearly as intrusive as the tire noise from the Continental tires. Good switch.
Update to my old thread: it was time for new tires this weekend. I hated the OEM Continentals, now my car adheres to the ground with Yokohama. Much improved cabin sound. The Yokohamas do a better job of absorbing road noise and shifting it down in frequency and amplitude. It isn't nearly as intrusive as the tire noise from the Continental tires. Good switch.
12-02-2018, 01:25 PM
