i might have missed or misread something.... but are you even using a mount on the passenger side rail-to-timing-cover? being that you already have 4 mounts (2 trans, 2 xmember) is that sidemount still necessary? i know that the xmember on VQs is closer to the center of the car than the VG/VQ are, so if anything that would be my reason for including the sidemount.

 

I checked the actual throttle position. Even though it says 85%, I was seeing something more like 95%. It doesn't look perfectly parallel to airflow though. What does yours look like?

I did not do anything to the bottom end. The only thing I have to break in are the cams. I got cheap engine oil and a filter with Lucas Engine Break In additive, which was about $20 for a pint. I'll probably change my oil around the 500 mile mark.

Yeah, I showed a picture of my solid front mount. It is necessary since the two engine mounts are in the middle of the car, not the engine.

What you call the side mount is known as the front engine mount. The front of the engine is the timing cover side. Then there are two engine mounts on the crossmember, the RH and LH.

 

Well, I had the camera ready to roll and fluids in the car. But it wouldn't start. There is no signal going to the starter. Right now, I don't know what the exact problem is. I feel my wiring is perfect. But obviously something isn't right. So I will retrace all the schematics and figure it out somehow. I will try to crank it up tomorrow. If anybody has any ideas, please feel free to throw them out there.

My dash harness and EC harness wiring seems correct after checking them. But with this 02 Maxima ignition switch, there are 6 wires. The VE switch only has 5 wires. That extra wire on the 02 Max switch goes to the Blower Motor Relay and I didn't see a need to wire that up since the VE uses the ACC relay-2 for the blower motor. I really don't know why the 02 Maxima has a wire going to the blower motor relay. But I don't know if anybody has swapped ignition switches before on a full ECU swap.

I am guessing my problem is in my stock inhibitor and interrupt and P/N switch circuit. But at first glance, all that seems ok. I will have to spend more time tomorrow tracing everything one wire at a time until I find why the start signal isn't making it way to the starter.

Edit: Oh yeah, and I am not getting any codes. Nothing that isn't expected, like EVAP, VIAS, and CAN signals.

And all fuses are ok.

 

The first thing I'd do is jump either the PNP sensor harness, or at the relay, see if it'll crank then.

 

Yeah thanks. I will probably do that. Just bypass everything, give the starter juice and physically see it turn before I trace every single wire.

 

I would jump the starter then work backwards from there, get out the multi meter and test the ing switch and netural switch

 

Yeah, I'll put 12 volts directly to the starter and make sure it works since I didn't bother bench testing it when I got it. The starter circuit isn't that complicated. I should be able to figure it out this afternoon when I finish my work for the day.

 

Have you ever done something so incredibly dumb that you contemplate whether to tell people what you've done?

Well, I found out the cause of my 'no start' problem. I knew it was going to be something simple. I check a certain wire that should have continuity and nothing. So I start peeling back my heat shrink and electrical tape to find a weird wire going somewhere it shouldn't be going. STARTER KILL SWITCH! I forgot to push my kill switch button. I haven't tried to crank this car up since last Sept when it died. I just forgot I had that switch in there!

I blipped the starter and it works. At least I know my 3.5 wiring skills are top notch and I did the job right the first time. Before I fire up the engine, I am going to set up the camera so you guys can see the initial start up.

 

We've all been there, at least you figured it out.

 

hahaha nice AARON!


good luck with the first start up. i know i would be soo scared. im sure you know what kind of procedure your going to do tho.

 

lol

 

been there countless times. everyone has their moments Aaron. at least you found out what it was even though it wasn't a problem rather something that you forgot about that was already there. can't wait to see the vid.

 

That's a long list, you know, and I'm right up near the top of it... Of course I'm not going to admit what the last "stupid" was that I did.

You're in good company here.

 

Haha! Thanks for not flaming me too bad guys.

 

Yeah, we have all done it. haha

When are you gonna let it run?

 

 

I hope to fire it up within the next 15 minutes. I hope it starts.

 

It's alive! It fired up perfectly the very first time I cranked it up! The video is 2gb, so it'll take some time to upload.

 

Sweet!!

 

Nice! Can't wait for the video

 

yeah it took me a minute to get that... i was thinking relative to the car, not relative to the 'traditional' sides of the engine

great job getting it running tho! can't wait to see it going. are you gonna go ahead and road-test it as soon as you get the cams broken in? guess your "project car" page on your site is bout to get a whole new look after maxus is over, huh?

 

wow 2 gb???




glad to hear it cranked up just fine!!!


break that Bi*** in good.

 

Thanks. The cam idle break in procedure is done. I just need to spend the next 50-100 miles under 4K rpm.

Yeah, it's a 19 minute video in HD. Hopefully, the video will be done uploading by tomorrow morning. I don't have software that can edit the MOV format right now. So you guys get to see the ENTIRE initial start up. It's going to be hard for you to believe that this was truely the very first time I turned the engine over. Not the SLIGHTEST rattle came from my engine! NOTHING! Permatex Engine Slick Assembly Lube applied liberally! And the tensioners had as much tension as possible before installing the timing cover.

 

Here's a quick video I made since I know you guys are eager to see something:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EQDcAJbNg9g

This is not the first time I fired it up though. The initial start up video hopefully will come soon.

 

nice mannnn


glad its paying off!!!!

 

I just took the car for a small test drive and my speedometer doesn't work and it won't shift into 2nd gear. They are probably related. Any ideas?

I am using a 4th gen VSS with 4th gen converter housing and stock VE auto tranny. I'm not sure if the VSS is picking up a signal, but that's probably the first thing I will test. To see if it's producing voltage like it should.

 

i thought there is no VSS on 5.5 gen???


on mine their isent.. 6spd tho



it gets speed from ABS sens

 

Yeah, I think it gets the speed from the ABS sensor.

in AT it says it uses the revolution sensor. in EC the VSS is the abs stuff.

 

The VE gets it's signal from the tranny VSS. I know it works cause other full ECU 3.5 swappers have done it that way. That may be the reason why it wouldn't shift into 2nd gear on it's own. My stock TCM is 100% stock. And I made sure it was getting a tach and speed signal from the cluster. It's just the speed signal to the cluster isn't operational right now.

 

does it shift into 3rd and 4th but just not 2nd? or it wouldn't get past 1st? if the latter, perhaps the problems are related. how does the drive-by-wire tps relay info to your stock 3G TCU? are the resistance-per-percent-throttle figures the same?

also for the VSS, maybe check to see if the length-below-flange of both 3/4G vss's are the same. maybe your 4g one is just a dud.

 

It just won't shift out of 1st gear. Tomorrow, I will see if the VSS is putting out voltage like it should. I know the signal works with the 5.5 gen cluster since others have done it before. The stock TCM doesn't need a TPS signal. All it needs is vehicle and engine speed. Which it's obviously not getting cause the VSS sends the signal to the cluster first, then it goes to the TCM.

 

according to the FSM the TCU does connect to the TPS.... OR/L and B/W wires. And the shift-pattern things show the shift points based on throttle position (1994 AT-110). Otherwise, how would the TCM know that it needs to downshift when you bury the pedal? Also look at diagnostic 12 on AT-142 (still 1994 FSM)

taking a peek at page AT-189 on the 2003 FSM, and page AT-99 on the 1994FSM, you will notice that the voltage outputs are the same for both the 3rd gen TPS and the 5.5gen 'accelerator pedal position sensor'. so if you haven't already, you would need that pedal thing to also splice into the TPS wires on the 3rd gen TCM harness. So, whatever your output (~4.5v @ WOT) from the pedal is, would to go Orange/Blue pin 31 on your VE TCU.

 

Ok I will check that out. Thanks.

I believe it doesn't NEED the TPS signal to make it's shifts in forward gears. I don't need full function though. I just need the thing to automatically shift down the 1/4 mile.

 

i edited to add info. maybe see if some VE-auto person can unplug his TPS and see how his car shifts with it unplugged. sadly Burhan92se is the first one that comes to mind.

also, while "who cares as long as it shifts at the right points down the track" is fine if you tow your car to the track, but it's going to be a very uneasy ride getting to and from if you're just buzzing along at 5k revs cuz the thing won't upshift when it's supposed to yaknow what i mean?

 

You can always put in a couple of switches for the A and B noids and shift manually for the street, I did that for quite a while until I got the Suprastick.

 

Upshift is what I DO need. But I can care less about automatic downshifting right now.

Thanks. I looked at my TB plate. The Auterra software says 85% when I have it to the floor. The plate looks to be just barely shy of parallel with the airflow. What does your plate look like at WOT? I'd say mine appears to be about 95% open.

 

haha nonono, when i said "down" i meant "down the length of the track" not "downshifts"

 

I don't know what you mean.

Why would I be running my car at 5K rpm? It's going to upshift properly before I can race the car. If I can make my way down the 1/4 mile, then it most certainly will drive properly on the street. I don't need it to automatically downshift right now. All I need it to do is upshift. I'll worry about the VSS signal tomorrow. Once I fix that, my shifting problem will probably go away.

 

down the road... down the street... down the track.


ignore the 5k thing. half the stuff i say only makes sense in my mind (as many people tell me).

anyhow... i still think that the VSS isn't the only problem.. i'm still putting some monopoly-money on the TPS thing too. cuz, from what i've read, right now your TCM thinks it's moving 0mph at 0% throttle no matter what, if it's missing those 2 signals. I unplugged my TPS once, and the tranny did not shift right at all... nowhere close. So it's definitely an important part of the equation.

 

good shat aaron