Today I connected my notebook to the max with a serial/consult cable, and ran ECUTalk with logging enabled. I was looking for what happened with this MAF when I opened the throttle quickly. Looking at the log, I see that when you smack down on the throttle hard, and hit fuel-cut, the log shows the injector pulse-time as NOT going away at fuel cut - instead the log shows a short but definite injector pulse.

This means that a 99 ECU still has an injector pulse at fuel-cut which could be used by Greddy EU to raise the rev limit. There has been a lot of discussion about whether or not there is an injector pulse, so I have evidence in the log that there is a pulse after cut, with the injector pulse going from 14.55ms to 0.61ms. Fuel seems to be restored at row 1194.

Log sample intervals seem to be every 20-30 ms. Rows 1186 and 1187 show fuel-cut clearly.

Column labels are:
C= RPM D= Throttle/tps E= Timing F= Injector pulse

 

Man its hard to keep up with this thread, i leave for a couple of weeks and now I am lost.
So you were looking into an EMS because the stock issue fluctuates the timing too much? I am 100% with you on this. I think one thing to think about is MAF delete, I say this because you have control of the maf voltage, and maf votage affects timing, and we know the voltage jumps around ALOT. So I have pretty much a fixed value across the board while in boost. Although timing is still not a flat line, it is rather smooth. I dont wanna throw that into your already complex project, but its an idea lol.

 

I'm lost a lot, lately. I went down this path because my latest setup, after the Altima UIM/LIM install, bogged very badly on launch. I thought maybe bad MAF or O2 sensors, so while I was ordering NGK sensors, I would check the MAF - I had two, then eBayed another. The original KramRam MAF showed less than 10:1 A/F when the throttle was floorboarded - that's the bogging. I installed the other street MAF and saw the same thing. Hmmm... Then installed the third one and it was worse. I remembered - no tape - so I installed some tape across the back of the MAF sensor tunnel, only lower, and the bogging went away! The A/F never dropped below 12:1, and only rebounded to about 16:1 when lifting the throttle. Too much airflow when going WOT.

I decided to try the ECUTalk program and see exactly what the ECU was doing, and see that the timing does wander all over the map, from 0* to at least 47* depending on the throttle action. I gotta get a Haltech. MAP is good...

 

But wait, why exactly do you want haltech? for timing, or for mafless?

 

Yes. The Haltech would be a good way to deliver accurate crank-based ignition timing and injector pulses - to start with. It has many options as well - and I think it would be good to have for any transition into using MAP and a turbo....

There are others, but local support is important, so any final decision would involve features and support. The latest Emerald also looks very good for 1/2 the price, but driving to Florida for an initial tune ain't gonna happen. Driving to Wichita KS - that's doable. Maybe Tulsa OK as well...

 

I was actually going to mention Emrald on my last post, I actually know the guys and have always heard great things about it.

 

The English web site covers the Emerald K6 - and it sounds a lot like Haltech, with many modern features and accessories - like a choice of crank trigger wheels.

Since you know the krew, ask them what they can do for a '99 Maxima.

 

I can ask them, or I can get you the contact info so you can give them a call. The owners goes by "English", real cool and knowledgeable guy.

 

There's an ORG member " NiZMo101 " down your way who works there. Here's a recent message:


"Quote:
Originally Posted by grey99max View Post
So what do you know about the Emerald K6? Has your shop installed one yet? The specs look good and they offer the correct trigger wheel and sensors, I see. If the K6 can work with their crank trigger on my front pulley and the installed VQ35 in-head cam sensors, I'm interested.

Grey just called the # on our website and speak with Mack

www.emeraldperformance.com

as Ive said we are the US dealers for Emerald and Jenvey.

the Man that supplies them also is the man that installed them in-house and has done many ECU setups for caterhams , Lotus just to name a few.

We have our own trigger wheel and a few cut in-house.

If you want to inquire about it then give us a ring , Mack can tell you more than I can as im still learning the system myself and fiddling on the laptop with the settings.

if you want to inquire Haltech we have one of the BEST tuners in the U.S. right next door to us.

Crispeed ( google his name )

and we also sold a set of Jenvey ITB's to HAL @ injected peformance for their g35 project , HAL has done alot of VQ tuning as well"


Helpful, but still no answers... All I want to know is what it takes to mount the correct trigger wheel on the crank pully and set the K6 set up to run on my engine.... I'm not driving to Florida for an installation and tune -as much fun as that would be.

 

Any updates on the shark?

 

The blown differential goes to my shop tomorrow to remove the transmission and take it to a pro transmission shop to try and exchange the bad differential with the one in the photos. Apparently it takes "special tools" to mount a diffy and get all the clearances correct. Pain in the azzz, right?

We had some discussions on what to do with the bad VLSD thingie, but other racers told me that welding up the gears in the diffy is a Bad Idea. Sounded good to me, but hey, these guys are real racers. But, if it happens again, it's TIG time....

 

Yeah, there are clearances you have to set.

I'm rebuilding my 6 speed right now and it isn't that bad, but I haven't gotten to putting the newer internals in yet so we'll see how that goes.

 

Wish you could cryo all those gears and case - there is a good cryo shop up north in Marysville KS. They have a web site... I can't cryo my VLSD unit because it's a sealed unit full of some goo. Otherwise, I'd be there.

Something else - I've been thinking about an electronic dash or display that starts up with the engine. I really like the ECUtalk program because it's really fast, versatile, and logs everything through a Consult port. I think that a 15" LCD dash-mounted display connected to a stashed notebook might be legal and would be cheaper than commercial digital dashes.

 

I don't think the tranny will need it. It looks like it was a freak thing that messed up the trans. These trannies look pretty beefy.

The electronic dash would be awesome! Sounds really cool.

 

Any photos of your transmission's guts?

 

Just on my phone which can't send pictures. I have to upload them onto my computer.

Maybe I can have a friend take some with a real camera tonight.

 

If you get a chance.... that would be good. I'd like to "eyeball" your differential and compare it to my VLSD photos. Not that they would swap, but how strong the gears appear to be when comparing... I'm really starting to hate transmissions.

 

I got the goods today , I can't wait to put them in!!

Thanks a lot!

 

Be kind to them - they needed a good home....

 

What kinda goods?

 

Just some "stuff" for his 3.5 project.....

 

"Stuff" is always good.
Did you hook him up with those cams? Those would be sweet in his motor.

 

Aaron should discuss his plans..... I'm just contributing a couple of things to his bucket list.

 

Dan (DandyMax) was kind enough to share this information with me.

Here are Cam and front and rear Crank timing waveforms:

Cam: ----------------------------------------------------------




Cam and Front Crank:--------------------------------------------





Rear Crank: ------------------------------------------------------




---------------------------------------------------------------------

With this information (and some other diagrams not shown here - great work, from 2005 ! ), maybe there's enough information to get an answer from Haltech and Emerald about their compatibility w/VQ30 engine timing....

 

I see that many people refer to the Q45 TB as 90mm - since I have one, I decided to measure it. Photos follow.

Turns out that the Q45 TB measures 80mm, not 90mm. I measured the ID right at the butterfly shaft.

 

Talk to Haltech about the 3.0 stuff man!!!




and 80mm is plenty good! at 90mm the intake manifold prolly causes too much restriction anyway!

 

we have the trigger wheels made in-house , you must use an aftermarket pulley

 

My VLSD differential has been broken for a few weeks. The car started jumping back and forth during a "test" N2O run on the highway, and did it again doing a burnout at the now-defunct KCIR drag strip.

At home, I put the car in neutral and raised both front tires off the ground. When I rotated one tire, the opposite side would either not more at all or move in the opposite direction, jumping as it was moved. Definitely broken.

I removed the whole differential from the last transmission, still sitting in the garage, and had a highly-recommended transmission shop install the differential in the car's transmission. I picked up the car tonight - and it's still broken, with no changes in how it feels. The last diffy has some worn gears inside, but the VLSD module is a sealed steel thingie that bolts on, so I can't see inside it.

The car is already back at my shop for some headscratching tomorrow, but I'm not sure what to do about this one. If NHRA didn't ban spool diffys, I'd have the suckar welded up.

Anyone have any knowledge of the VLSD differential in 4th gens?

 

I'd just weld the damn thing. They won't know, just don't turn to sharply.

Too bad u can't use the HLSD out of my transmission. Looks like a nice unit!

 

Of course that's the first thing that came to my mind - but - welding the gears can create cracks and other weak spots in the housing. A couple of real racers warned me off that this morning. Instead, what if the inside of the differential was filled with poured metal, like aluminum or bronze?

The bearings and speedo gear would have to come off, and the two axle gears would have to be plugged and the outside of the housing would need to be wrapped so that only one hole is open into the differential to pour metal, but still - nothing could spin inside there.

The other choice is to buy a new complete differential made by Nissan and install it into the transmission - but chances are that it would break again.... I dunno yet, but having the broken differential poured full of stuff sure would be - interesting.

 

I didn't know NHRA banned spools. They've always prohibited welding the differential to prevent it from moving (aka Lincoln Locker). But a lot of race cars still use full spools. I thought about having a few custom ones made for the VLSD transmission. The spool will replace the entire VLSD unit. It'll be a lot lighter and tougher at the same time. And we could see an extra few HP at the wheels by going with a lightweight spool.

Also, I don't know of a way to weld a VLSD. But you can definitely weld an open diff and be very tough if it's welded right. I have a few pics I think of how Jime did his a long time ago.

One day, I plan to revisit having a full spool made. I even started a thread about it. I was originally going to swap in a welded open diff, but it's not a direct swap. The transmission casing is different between open and VLSD. So in order for me to run a welded open diff, I'd have to swap the entire transmission.

So a full spool will suit people like us.

Here's the thread I started about it: http://forums.maxima.org/1-4-1-8-mil...nterested.html

 

If you weld it correctly you shouldn't have to worry about it. Use a tig rather than a mig so you don't get splatter on places you don't want.

This sounds interesting. Sounds like it could work really well.

 

This is from the 2011 NHRA General Regulations, Section 20 Page 14:

"2:11 REAR END

Welded spider gear rear ends prohibited in all classes....." which is what I was thinking of above.

There's more about Four-wheel drive and aftermarket axles required in certain classes, but this is the raw meat. Hmmm... front-wheel drive ???

Anyway, I'm not going to weld up anything for class competitions. Now pouring bronze in the differential is not mentioned.

------------------
Aaron, I remember your thoughts about a manufactured VLSD spool - sounds good right about now.... but pouring molten metal into a differential would accomplish the same thing.

 

Yeah, I guess pouring metal into the diff isn't mentioned.

 

I guess the VLSD isn't as strong as I thought it was - the built transmission works great, especially under load, but after looking at the spider gears in the diffy I just had removed, I'm worried. Those gears are badly scuffed and discolored. I gotta take some pixs of them. I haven't begun to really raise the power yet - only about 400WHP on the last settings, but things broke. It's time for a trip to my machinist, I guess.

 

Without cracking the tranny apart how will the tech know if the diff is welded, filled or has a spool. At the end of the day they all will operate the same.

 

Which is exactly why I did mine 4 years ago.

Its not like you are cheating and having an unfair advantage over your competition, like a delay box etc.

All you are really doing is saving a bunch of money by buying a Quaife etc.

 

Here's more photos of the last VLSD, complete with scuffed pinion gears. Is this even weldable through the side ports?

And for comic relief, here at the end is a shot of a Man's Bear Claw, complete with bacon. It was yummy - fresh from a bakery in Manhattan KS - KState's home base. See the doughnut with purple frosting?

 

You need an open diff to weld not vlsd.

 

I Thought that looked familiar....