streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

Iv always wanted to get rid of that POS box. is it possible to remove the whole evap system?

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

without throw codes? not too sure, maybe involving resistors. I want to say you can get away with removing just that box without throw a code, but I havent looked at that box to see whats connected to it.

if you dont care about codes, you can just yank it all out.

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Would that even be "okay"? Codes are nothing, but what about it's function?

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

I dont mind about codes at all. i have about 10 lol. already got evap codes. i really wanna remove the whole evap crap. specially the thing on top of the intake manifold that has vacuum to it.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

Here is a short clip of acceleration. it was from a slow roll basically at idle. http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...oid=1751144300

ObsidianIce69

iTrader: (11)

If you don't tuck it into the actual bumper..then you could put it ...

[/QUOTE]

There in the top left of that picture..you can tuck the filter in there..and runn the piping to the inlet..tecvhincally you could even run the piping directly beneath the gas tank..there's room for it clearance wise. but probably won't be to pretty. Fashion a cone, or piece of ABS plastic or aluminum that only leaves a space facing the rear of the car to suck in air so you avoid the water/dirt kicked up when driving..just my $.02 and i'm a bit sleepy but i think it would work

ObsidianIce69

iTrader: (11)

nice! definitely has a some speed to it

nismology

iTrader: (8)

^^That run was with 3 passengers.

meximax

iTrader: (19)

I did a custom relocate on the evap box to create space for my old dual exhaust setup. That was about three years ago, so I don't remember all the details. It did require a bit of hacking (non-critical) of the box, rerouting of the vent pipe, extra vacuum lines, and zip ties to keep everything away from the exhaust pipes/mufflers. I think that the total work took less than an hour. No codes on my setup.

Anyway, here is a closer pic of it relocated. For your reference, that Magnaflow muffler/resonator is 4" in diameter and the pipes in and out are 2.5".

meximax

iTrader: (19)

For my SC CAI setup, I used a slim (3.5" O.D.) K&N Filter (KNN-RU-3130) that I got from Summit for something like $28. You would easily clear everything if you place the filter where my muffler is currently installed.

So I dug my database and found a high-res image to help you should you decided to relocate. I threw in some details for ya .....

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

awsome meximax. I might just put the filter where the evap box is. My CEL is always on for iacv, so having it on dosnt bother me. I might just remove the entire evap system. but first i wanna see if its safe to do so.

95BLKMAX

iTrader: (10)

Man u forgot already? When we were finishing my 3.5 swap the charcoal canister (which on 95s are directly below the fuel filter) kept getting on the way. I asked chris (S13 RB20DET swap dude) "do i really need the evap stuff?", told me no, that he took it off during his RB swap and he's got no problems, just smell alot of fuel at start up. So I ripped all the evap stuff in my engine bay out (which is the stuff you have at the rear bumper+over your IM). My car runs just fine without it.

To my understanding, the EVAP system is there to absorb the remaining fuel vapors in the intake manifold after shut off. It does it via the charcoal canister. With it off, all I notice is an ubber smell of fuel when I start the car in the mornings. But that could be partially due to my ubber 60-65psi fuel pressure (POS FRP gotz 2 go meng).

If anyone can comfirm/ disprove my notion of the EVAP system please do so.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

I wasnt there the day u took off the evap stuff. u also had the box i have in my rear pumper?

95BLKMAX

iTrader: (10)

oh sorry bout that, well yea I have no canister. And no I dont have the box. Just an empty stop there

Nupemax96

I see many sc for the 4th gen like stillen vortech but i haven't seen any tc. So what brands are there and which one is the best.

ObsidianIce69

iTrader: (11)

not that easy a question. You'll need to research. Onlyy PFI ever made a kit for 4th gens. It will basically be custom work...and stop jacking threads, i believe there's a thread dedicated to new people with questions!

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Not quite. TurboKit.com had 2 kits listed for awhile, I believe one was their own. I think they took it off their site because no one was buying it, but IIRC it's still available by request.

ObsidianIce69

iTrader: (11)

my mistake i stand corrected. looks like both kits are here

http://www.turbo-kits.com/maxima_turbo_kits.html

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Yeah, including the single-bank wonder

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

back to on topic, You guys suggest I do front mount IC? I dont kno if its safe to depend 100% on water/alk/meth injection.

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Do it. Get a smaller unit like I told you.

ghostmax301

iTrader: (7)

I was thinking the same thing for the past 3 days(FMIC) but was just wondering if it's as easy as it seems; redo the piping instead of going up, turn it to the right to enter the FMIC then on the other end bring it up, across the valve cover into the MAF. Or use the FMIC that has the enter & exit(dont know the exact name for them) on the same side





.. Seems easier then Water/ahl/meth injection..

ghostmax301

iTrader: (7)

Also does anyone think this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TO4E-...spagenameZWDVW would be a good turbo to use? It's a bit smaller then the TO4b, this is pretty much a TO4e with a .57 compressor wheel trim, .63 A/R turbine, and a .50 A/R compressor.




EDIT: dont think im going to get it from them, they sale full catback exhaust WITH bolt on turbo kits for $800!! So there quality is probably some crap.... o well

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

Thats exacly what I was thinking. using a same side inlet/outlet FMIC to reduce piping, so instead of piping coming up how it is now, it turns left to driver side, into the front (making a hole), then into the FMIC, then back and up behind the battery, like how the CAI comes up. then into the maf, it will look exacly like a CAI. except people will see the IC, FTL. lol but it should work. First im going to look for a z32 maf, then start doing things to be able to up the boost. like finally install 255 pump.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

Dont buy Ebay turbos.

ghostmax301

iTrader: (7)

LOL tell them its a Frontmount cold air intake lol.... there is a MAF with plug F/S in the F/S section for like $100 i think.....

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

too late lol. I already ordered a MAF on ebay. turbo93 dude was taking too long to respond.

ObsidianIce69

iTrader: (11)

so have you checked to see if you're getting any knock? have you checked to see the charge temperature? a FMIC could be totally unneeded at this point

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

i havent checked for knock. at 5psi and rear mounted. i seriously doubt i need FMIC, but i wanna do it for higher boost, not for the level im at now.


update:
I just took of the maf and pipes near engine bay for something with the tranny. and the entire charge pipe is full of oil, EVERYWHERE. I am thinking this is because of the feed pipe dripping oil into the turbo while the car is off. I have to find a way to put a check valve on there. SIGH!!!!!

Can oil cause any damages? i know it lowers octane, but other than that. can it cause any damage to the cylinders. With my little knowledge i dont think it causes any damage, if anything it lubricates the cylinders lol. Iv herd old schoo poeple put oil or atf in cylinders to help lubricate or something.

95BLKMAX

iTrader: (10)

Def put that check valve, anything that will lower the octaine of the mixture is a bad situation for boost.

Depends on how much oil is getting in there. #1 Intake valves can build gunk deposits on them. If there's gunk on their seating surfaces on against the cylinder head, then there would be a loss of compression (again, depending on how much gunk builds), and #2 you'd burn up and smoke the oil (must domestics with 100k+ miles do that anyways j/k lol), only concern with that would be fouling the o2 sensors.

Old school domestics sometimes pour a cap full of ATF into the spark plug holes to "clean out the carbon" on the cylinder walls.

IWNTMORHP!!

iTrader: (5)

I had a question...is there a reason other than simplicity that the MAF wasn't moved in front of the turbo? It seams that it would be more logical to suck through the MAF than to push 5+ lbs of boost through it...is there a difference? also, what engine management system are you using with this? I have been discussing this idea with a shop that has done quite a few turbo mustangs and thunderbirds since HP TV did the rear mount on the camaro...after seeing this it has me thinking strongly about boltin on some boost! Thanks for having the ***** to do this! good work on being a pioneer! by the way...any guidance or advice for me considering this with a 5.5 gen?

also, i like the idea of putting the filter over by the EVAP canister or hidden behind the bumper. just my .02

DirtyErnie

probably won't need to worry much about a FMIC on this setup. I have an original tech paper from NACA circa 1941 (that's pre-NASA NASA) And water's quite impressive...
if you're running water you'll probably be able to tune leaner than the 10 or 11:1 fuel ratio you're at now. probably be able to get close to 12.5 'max power' ratio without having to worry much about detonation. This is especially true if you're running 50% methanol in the water, methanol is ridiculously high octane, and water increases the octane tolerance of your engine. so there's +2 right there.

plus, water's real cheap and you can run up to somewheres around 150% as much water as you can fuel. definately has the bang-for-the-buck factor going.

E

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

DirtyErnie: Thanx for the info. right now I have to take care of the oil problem im having. oil is all over the charge pipe. I already ordered a check valve to stop the oil from leaking into the turbo while car is off.

IWNTMORHP: reason i put the maf in the front is because there really isnt a practical way of putting it in the suction side since thats in the back of the car. unless i run wires to the maf in the rear. for now im not having problems.

ghostmax301

iTrader: (7)

Would mounting it in the suction part result and more hp or better reults?

95BLKMAX

iTrader: (10)

Why would it make any difference? put it this way, would you want to put YOUR maf under the car, or keep it in the engine bay where it wont get wet? lol ok thats enough of a reason.

The problem with mounting the MAF ahead of the turbo is that when its there and it reads X amount of air coming into the motor-say for example you're flooring it and you get to make the shift, when you let off the gas to make the shift, and the BOV lets out that air to atmosphere, the ECU still thinks that X amount of air is going into the motor (but wait, you just let it out to atmosphere), so you flood the cylinders with fuel+no air! Thus the engine stalls.... .... This could be fixed with a recirculating valve that shoots the BOV's air BACK to just ahead of the turbo, but behind the MAF. But on the Max Ive never really seen this be done. The EU has an anti-stall feature that works great to eliminate this problem however.

The other option, put the MAF after the turbo and AFTER the BOV, that way it only reads the air that is ACTUALLY coming into the motor.

PERSONALLY I dont see the point/ know of any advantage of putting the MAF on the suction side. I know this is how Nissan places MAFs on their turbo engines (RBs, Z32TT, SR20DETs, etc...). Some one shime in and explain why please, I'm really asking, not being sarcastic.

kamski

iTrader: (9)

O WOW!!! Dude your a super hero, i allways though remote mount turbos were the key to life. YOu just proved that with a leaking BOV.

I'm pushing STS to make a full kit for my 6th gen.

Take Care, and power to you.

Kamski

renman

Nice job! I'm very interested in a remote turbo setup, but I won't be able to start it until late this year, so I'll be checking in on this thread!

scmax2000

iTrader: (16)

Cool setup.

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

I'manoobieandIneed15postssoIpostuselesscraplikethi sratherthanpostinginthededicatedthreadfornoobies

mastercater7

iTrader: (2)

ahaha