CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

yea, bad mounts are almost always more obvious to the driver than the passenger. the passenger might ask you why you're driving funny tho (to try and keep the engine movement to a minimum of course). I developed a weird driving style when my mounts were at their worst, which has kindof stuck with me.

nyc_ink

iTrader: (1)

it shakes bad, the hood chatters n bounces and when i stop at the light it shakes a lot and when its in park the steering wheel shakes.

i hope its not the injectors cuz i heard they cost a lot, dammit this sucks

Dishlex

Hey, I'm new here.

I've just bought my first car, it turned out to be a 1992 Nissan Maxima





I'm looking to install a Subwoofer and an Amp in it, it's already got a JVC KD-G635 with Pioneer 6x9's at the rear. Could someone link me to a decent tutorial for this?

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

Sick car, are both exhausts hooked up? if not i would rip the non running one off, swap the rims also but thats a sick car. I see youre in Australia and its a RHD model which is pretty sweet

Wiring for subs isnt really hard, just alot to figure out for your first time. i would find someone who knows how to do it to show/help you (what i did). You will need a wiring kit (wal-mart), amp, subwoofer w/enclosure, etc.

the 5 second tutorial is you take off the dash and other console bits, find the firewall and run the battery wiring through to your car battery, do the wiring douchebaggery to your CD deck, run the wiring that needs to go from there to your subs cleanly (as in tuck it under the plastic trim along the sides of the car, you have to unscrew the screws to loosen it, put the wiring under, and rescrew them, its what i did with mine), then when you hit the rear seats, tuck the wiring at the very back of them and take out the centre cushion of the rear seats to get the wiring to the trunk. hook up your amp and subs and pray to Jesus they work

thats the 5 second run, theres alot more

mark77

I haven't had any replies to this, can anyone please help???

Thanks

Dishlex

Yeah both exhausts run, sounds like a ****ing beast.

At first I thought the rims were pretty average, better than hub-caps, but average. While I'd still replace them, I've grown to like them a fair bit so I'm not looking to replace them any time soon.

Thanks for the tips regarding the Sub & Amp set up.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

have you actually cleaned out the iacv yet? tends to get carbon buildup. also try unplugging the TPS hard-switch (i think that's the oval-shaped connector, not the rectangular one) and see what happens.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

thats good on the exhausts, its just ghey when people just attach another exhaust and dont hook it up

mark77

Yeah i've cleaned it out really well. There was some carbon buildup in there. If i unplug the TPS hard switch and drive it for a while is it safe? If this solves the problem am i to beleive it's the TPS?? I have checked it for continuity at idle and with just a liitle throttle i get resitance. It goes up with the throttle as it says in the FSM.

Thanks

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

yea, all the hard switch does is fuel cut at 0% throttle over 1600rpm, and forces the ECU to assume 0% throttle at idle since there is no "throttle range calibration" or anything like that. I unplugged mine but of course my car is a manual.. but the soft (variable) portion still being plugged in should still make the tranny shift properly.

but with it unplugged just see how it behaves and go from there.

hotrodder

Hey guys, not new to the forum but never really posted until now. I have a 93 Maxima GXE that I purchased a couple months ago as a second vehicle/daily driver. Its nothing special yet (hence not posting) so there is nothignt o show off or brag about but recently, I started having some issues I could use some advice on.

First, I do not know the keypad code. I looked in the dash but the sticker is all white and rough-textured as if it has been rubbed off. Is there any way to recover the code still or am I just screwed?

Second, the door locks kind of act up. Ill get in, start it and then it will not let me lock it and remains that way until I force down two of the locks at once. Any modules or something I should change out?

Last, today, the alarm started going off for no reason. I have no way to turn it off. There is a little blue plug in deal under the steerign wheel that seemed once to turn it off when removed but now does nothing. Putting the key in any lock or the ignition does not turn it off and doing the reset does not turn it off. I was disconnecting the positive battery terminal, opening the door, putting the key in the on position, and re-connecting the battery terminal but that does not work. Any thoughts? I will just "jump" the alarm but if I could fix it instead, that would be best of course. Any help??

Thanks in advance for the replies.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

for the keypad, you can just get another box that has the sticker still on it. wanna buy mine? i'm parting out my gxe.

hotrodder

How much ?? and I have another question based on this situation with the alarm that potentially might require more of your parts haha..

I finaly got the alarm to reset after pulling the ignition fuse and waiting 5 min before putting it back in, it worked and I was able to start the car. I was checking all the wires and everything looks fine except one black wire from the keypad to the door lock mechanism is split. Could this cause the alarm to go into active mode and not recognize the key in the lock to turn it off??? If so, what do I have to do to replace the keypad? Replace the entire door harness or? Of course the wire is cut so there is not enough room to splice in a new wire on the keypad side of the split.

Any ideas? Is there a door specific harness or is it all integral to the main harness? Im also looking for some other parts for the cr too to pretty it up. You have ne pics or a thread I can check out?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

er... $20 shipped?

black wires are USUALLY ground wires.. where exactly is the broken wire? the door harness connects to the main harness in the cabin area itself, according to the FSM. I don't know all the particulars since i've never fully removed a door tho (well i did once, but i just hacked the harness with a knife )

hotrodder

The wire is split right before it attaches into the keypad. Theres like 1/8" out of the keypad and then its split.

Ill check my local salvage yard tomorrow if they have the box and let you know. 20.00 shipped seems like a good deal but Ive gotten almost all my parts from the local salvage yard for 5-10 bucks so since Im broke haha, saving a few bucks is important right now.

Hatmanafro

iTrader: (1)

hi, my name is juan, i live in GA.. like 45 minutes away from atlanta. but anyways.. i just got a car and its a 1989 nissan maxima GXE, i think (its got the windshield speedo reflection thing, the digital dash, the AC thats like automatic, the sonar suspension and the automatic tranny switch)
anyways.. i have sum issues with it as any car bought for $900 has.. the valve cover gaskets leak and i think that the oil pan gaskets leak also.. umm.. the dash dosent light up, only the gas gauge and temp gauge light up. and the windshield speedo work...

another issue is the fact that the ac comes on when u first start the car but shuts off like 3 minutes later and dosent turn back on untill you start the car again.. the drivers door window switches dont work and neather do the speakers.. im kinda thinking that there is a electrical issue sumwhere that could fix all of this at once... there is an aftermarket radio installed and maybe the person that installed the radio did sumthin with the wires and messed sumthing up... another thing is that the back speakers.. the only ones that work make a fuzz sound and its rele annoying.. you can hear the music when the sound is turned all the way up but it sounds terrable, ive been reading up and maybe the amps on the speakers are shot.. so yeah.. i know this is alot so im not expecting much help but im kinda new to all this so i would appreciat it if i got sum help or tips or anything

RotaryHead

If all the other swiches work the wiring in the door jam could have a break in them. One of the presure switches for the ac could be bad. The amps can be bad i replaced mine with amps from a q45.

Garf

iTrader: (1)

i really like that back bumper. do all AUS 3rd gens come like that? and if you haven't bought the sub and amp or wiring kit yet, then the wiring kit comes with generic instructions on how to install the amp. not that hard. you could even google it.

wpendl1

Does anyone know how the spark signal is controlled on the VE30DE? I have a 92 SE that was in need of VTC rebuilds. After rebuilding the VTCs and putting everything back together it now is only running on 3 cylinders. The right (firewall side) three. Nothing to the front. For those who don't know, the VE30DE has individual coil packs, no distributor or wire.
I didn't remove the Cam Positioning Sensor, just the wiring.
I double checked the cam timing marks, and did a compression test to verify. I have good compression on both banks.
Also, I checked for any CEL codes, all I get is a 55 saying no codes.
All 6 spark plugs have about 150 miles on them.
I don't think it matters, but I replaced the drivers side axel and output shaft seal at the same time.
Help please.

Hatmanafro

iTrader: (1)

ok.. really noobish question.. but i was triyin to take the dash off to check the connections on the aftermarket head unit on my 89 maxima and i could only find 3 screws.. i cant see the 4th.. ive read a tutorial on taking off the dash nd it says that there is 2 screws under the ash tray and the cigarrette lighter.. i cant find that one!
im sure you guys know. so thanks

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

pull the ash tray out completely.. should be on the very lower left edge. i assume that's the one you couldn't find?

Hatmanafro

iTrader: (1)

i did pull it out completely and i only saw the one on the right but Ok man.. im gonna look again tomorrow.. thanks

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

either you overlooked it or it was missing to begin with

maxitech

iTrader: (7)

I wonder if it has something to do with the car (hence, the interior) being RHD...

Hatmanafro

iTrader: (1)

maybe.. its got the automatic AC.. i dont know if that makes a difference..

wpendl1

No one has any ideas?

mossyoaks

My first gen is driving me insane! Even the brakes are a mystery....

Hatmanafro

iTrader: (1)

omg!... i feel like such a dumbass.. lol.... i overlooked the screw this whole time.. thank god this is a noob thread.. haha.. i maneged to get the dash off and check out the head unit.. thanks guys

Garf

iTrader: (1)

wrong forum.
try here:http://forums.maxima.org/1st-2nd-gen...-1985-1988-19/

schoolzin

Hey all, just got a 93 Se and the passenger front window goes down but rarely goes up...it just makes a clicking sound. Is this a bad switch, or window regulator? Thanks for your help!

KaneStyles

I got one, i need your info

Michaelad

Hello, I am new the forum. I am by no means a Maxima enthusiast but I just picked up a 1994 Nissan and thought that maybe you guys could help me out a bit. My drivers side window does not roll down it acts like the switch isnt getting any power because there is absolutely no response. the passenger side window does not roll up once it has been rolled down unless you play with the switch forever.

The car was only $1000.00 (runs like a champ though,) so I am not looking into dumping a lot of money into it but I want to keep it in nice shape and running well.

Michaelad

Who would have known that an older Maxima could look so great! Congrats on your purchase, I like you just picked up a Maxima around the same year and am actually starting to enjoy the looks of these cars.

Dinglekidd

hi. i just found out my CV shaft (passanger) was blown. can i replace it myself or do you think i should take it to a shop?

300zmax

its not the worst to replace but it is a pita. you will need a jack stand, jack, 36mm socket and a breaker bar (or pipe).

remove lug nut cover. undo cotter pin and 36mm nut on spindle (breaker bar or pipe may be need to break loose). lift car, remove wheel, , undo balljoint (3 nuts under LCA) undo tie rod outer joint. pull spindle off shaft (may need a second set of hands). slide under the car with a 10mm wrench ( this is the PITA part) and remove 3 10mm bolts from bearing block next to the rear motor mount. with an extension tap on one of the bosses where the bearing bolts where to spin the bearing ( this helps to free it) then pull the shaft out of the block and trans, it will com all at once.

dont forget to drain the trans. good time for a fluid change.

its a bit abbreviated but that's the jist of it.

good luck.

Dinglekidd

thanks that sure does beat paying 1.35 to get it installed

jona571

iTrader: (1)

since I cannot post my own thread I guess I can put it here,I have 2 cracked coils on my SE both coils have 2 cracks each but my car dose see to run fine but other people say that they are probly arcing is this true cause the car runs perfect I'm just hoping that if I put new coils on my car will even run better but I don't want to spend the money for nothing if they are fine.

Hatmanafro

iTrader: (1)

i have a question, i plan to replace the timing belt on my max sumtime before i get my license, and i kinda know the process.. but when u take the belt off how do u kepp the cams from moving by themselfs.. i know the consequences are bad if the cam sprockets were to move..

RotaryHead

as long as the timing is at top dead then they wont move. they wont move past certin points but thats another story.

crit111

1990 Max, 160k, Florida car until three years ago when it migrated north to New Hampshire. I replaced the CV's and suddenly had a mystery oil leak. I checked the seals where they enter the tranny, dry as a bone. Well about a week later, on comes the brake light. Fill up the fluid, go about my life. Three days later, it's on again and I have no brakes. The light switch clicked on, my mystery oil had nothing to do with the CV replacement, it was the breaks... This definitely helped explain why the oil didn't smell like MTF or engine oil. None the less, I've traced it to a single location.

I don't know the technical lingo for all the parts i'm about to explain, but please bear with me. There are two break lines and three fuel lines, they all come together under the fuel filter area, are bundled up with one of those seperator things that make them line up nice and neat and they head down and out of sight. Under the car, they magically reappear and head off to their respective paths. I suspect the leak is where you can't physically see or touch the lines because they're between the body and the A-arm. (Near the back of the a-arm? Control arm, sway bar area?) I'll run with a-arm for now. This a-arm area is soaked in brake fluid, dripping off two of the giant bolts holding this thing on.

The lines under the hood up to the point where they disapear under the car are immaculate. When they reappear under the car, they still look amazing. There is no evidence of fluid leaking from the bottom of the MS, and I even looked inside under the carpet (per other posts I searched). Dry dry dry.

Should there be a leak between where they leave sight from under the hood and where they reappear under the car, whats the plan for splicing the break lines? (with the new fittings and flares...none of this compression fitting business...I learned my lesson on my last project car) Do I really have to take that whole giant a-arm, swaybar looking thing off to do this? Or am I completely missing the leak and wasting my time removing things I probablly shouldn't be removing?

My apologies on the novel....