*NOOBIES* The "I am new here,but have a question" thread..(post your questions here)
09-30-2009, 09:21 AM
#4241
09-30-2009, 11:45 AM
#4242
09-30-2009, 12:56 PM
#4243
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 15
CV axle job finished! Thanks for all the help. Unfortunatley it did not solve my problem ... a "wump, wump, wump" sound when driving. i know the wheel bearing is bad, could the wheel hub be bad too? there seems to be no definitive answer in the forums on what sound that makes.
Last edited by chrisville37; 09-30-2009 at 01:21 PM.
09-30-2009, 07:11 PM
#4244
I need to paint the ones on my car too. Not just because they look nasty. When the time is right, the sunlight will hit the wiper arms and straight to my eyes.
09-30-2009, 08:02 PM
#4245
It should be just as easy as removing the nuts holding them and just lift them up. I did that sunday when I was removing the cowl panel.
I need to paint the ones on my car too. Not just because they look nasty. When the time is right, the sunlight will hit the wiper arms and straight to my eyes.
I need to paint the ones on my car too. Not just because they look nasty. When the time is right, the sunlight will hit the wiper arms and straight to my eyes.
10-01-2009, 08:34 AM
#4246
i didnt kno how to take mine out either so i jus lift them up like u would when ur changing the blades and put newspaper laid down so when u put them back down they lay on it. next i used a lil wire brush to remove the paint that was flaking and once i was done i used cotton ***** and alcohol to wipe them down. next allow to dry then spray paint them (thats why the newspapers there so u wont paint anything else)
10-01-2009, 08:57 AM
#4247
ok so i wonna get my exhaust done.
where do i start?
i want the car to sound deep and powerfull not like a rice bucket with a loud a$$ muffler.
if anyone can name piece by piece and what brand of that piece would you recommend i would appreciate it a lot.
i will post vids and pics once i fix the car up.
where do i start?
i want the car to sound deep and powerfull not like a rice bucket with a loud a$$ muffler.
if anyone can name piece by piece and what brand of that piece would you recommend i would appreciate it a lot.
i will post vids and pics once i fix the car up.
10-01-2009, 12:24 PM
#4248
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Vallejo,Ca
Posts: 16
rear disc brake question
Hello, I have read up here on this forum about changing the rear drum brake system to disc. I have a 90 GXE, my question is if I get the whole rear strut assy from a SE are the springs the same? Would the ride height change?And does it have to be the same year?
Thank you
Ezra
Thank you
Ezra
10-01-2009, 12:51 PM
#4249
Hello, I have read up here on this forum about changing the rear drum brake system to disc. I have a 90 GXE, my question is if I get the whole rear strut assy from a SE are the springs the same? Would the ride height change?And does it have to be the same year?
Thank you
Ezra
Thank you
Ezra
10-01-2009, 01:07 PM
#4250
I did not notice a difference in ride height, iirc, the only difference is that the SE springs are stiffer. My rear strut assemblies came from a 93, so year doesn't really matter. All I had to do was tie wrap the ABS connections to the strut since I had no where to plug them into.
10-01-2009, 10:41 PM
#4251
Hello, I have read up here on this forum about changing the rear drum brake system to disc. I have a 90 GXE, my question is if I get the whole rear strut assy from a SE are the springs the same? Would the ride height change?And does it have to be the same year?
Thank you
Ezra
Thank you
Ezra
10-02-2009, 09:06 AM
#4252
If anything it will only help sell the car, at least for me it would. Drums are ugly and a pain to change (in comparison to discs). I did the swap because I got the parts cheap and needed to change the front brakes too.
10-02-2009, 09:52 AM
#4253
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 26
i went to a shop today to see about getting my thermosat replaced and they tryed to tell me that it would be like 200 $ because its located under the intake manfold i think there rong does any one know its a 93 nissan maxima se i belive its just under the lower radiator hose housing but i cound be rong myself
10-02-2009, 08:03 PM
#4254
i went to a shop today to see about getting my thermosat replaced and they tryed to tell me that it would be like 200 $ because its located under the intake manfold i think there rong does any one know its a 93 nissan maxima se i belive its just under the lower radiator hose housing but i cound be rong myself
Last edited by jbbons25; 10-02-2009 at 08:10 PM.
10-03-2009, 11:05 AM
#4256
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 2
Power Locks and Anti Theft System Don't work.
First of all, I bought the car with all of these problems, which makes it much harder for me to fix becasue I have no idea what is going on in the first place. I have a 1989 Maxima GXE. My Power Locks, Anti Theft System, And Digital Dash Cluster Don't work. The Heads Up Display (HUD) doesn't seem to work in the cold along with the temperature and fuel level display. The Speedometer and Tacometer don't work, neither does the milage display. The passenger side window has a mind of its own and rolls itself down when I start the car occasionally. I have to hold the button up until it rolls up, then shut off the car. I took off the door thinking the wires to it were broken from repeated door opening but they were fine. With the power locks, the Digital Keypad thing on the door only opens the trunk. I've used every method to activate the power locks stated in the owners manual, and nothing has worked. The Anti Theft System doesn't work, when I shut off the car there is supposed to be a "security" light on the dash that turns on, but it doesn't. All of the warning light on the dash work (door open, fuel low, seatbelt...). The Anti-Lock Brakes also don't work, with winter coming up, I'd like to get that fixed also.
Please Help!
Thanks!
Please Help!
Thanks!
Last edited by Kyle100125; 10-03-2009 at 11:10 AM.
10-03-2009, 07:48 PM
#4257
my locks do the same thing, its apparently the door lock timer
when i got my max it worked fine, then eventually the doorpad only worked when it was cold outside, now it wont lock or unlock my doors and my buttons inside dont either. its the door lock timer, you need to solder a wire to get a good connection again
if you sit in the drivers seat and manually press down the lock, do you hear a click noise from the dash?
when i got my max it worked fine, then eventually the doorpad only worked when it was cold outside, now it wont lock or unlock my doors and my buttons inside dont either. its the door lock timer, you need to solder a wire to get a good connection again
if you sit in the drivers seat and manually press down the lock, do you hear a click noise from the dash?
10-04-2009, 08:02 AM
#4259
10-04-2009, 08:06 AM
#4260
afaik all 3rd gen GXEs have the wires by the bumper, but just some of them have the wiring on the dash harness.
10-04-2009, 08:57 AM
#4261
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 2
my locks do the same thing, its apparently the door lock timer
when i got my max it worked fine, then eventually the doorpad only worked when it was cold outside, now it wont lock or unlock my doors and my buttons inside dont either. its the door lock timer, you need to solder a wire to get a good connection again
if you sit in the drivers seat and manually press down the lock, do you hear a click noise from the dash?
when i got my max it worked fine, then eventually the doorpad only worked when it was cold outside, now it wont lock or unlock my doors and my buttons inside dont either. its the door lock timer, you need to solder a wire to get a good connection again
if you sit in the drivers seat and manually press down the lock, do you hear a click noise from the dash?
10-04-2009, 05:14 PM
#4262
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 26
Does anyone know what usually causes cruise control to fail ?
the car is a 93 se its a manual and the rocker switch light still works but the light on the gauge cluster does not. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
thank you
the car is a 93 se its a manual and the rocker switch light still works but the light on the gauge cluster does not. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
thank you
10-04-2009, 06:23 PM
#4263
make sure the green rubber stopper on the clutch pedal switch (the one that is pushed when the pedal is all the way up) is still there, same for the brake pedal (the blue switch iirc). if they are busted/gone, the button will never be pressed, so cc will assume you are pushing the clutch or brake pedal when you aren't. brakelights are on a totally separate circuit, as is the clutch start switch (cuz it's at the bottom of the clutch pedal travel)
10-04-2009, 08:14 PM
#4265
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 26
my car has a loud lifter nose its when i start the car but when i get in about 3rd gear it goes away and if i go for a nice long drive at like 55 and come back the noise is gone but once th engine cools and i start it back up the noise is back . I've read on hear that it could be the vtc's . does any one think they know what it is . and what are vtc's and are they hard or exsensive to replace. If someone thinks they know that would be great. thanks for any effort put in to this
10-05-2009, 07:54 AM
#4266
my car has a loud lifter nose its when i start the car but when i get in about 3rd gear it goes away and if i go for a nice long drive at like 55 and come back the noise is gone but once th engine cools and i start it back up the noise is back . I've read on hear that it could be the vtc's . does any one think they know what it is . and what are vtc's and are they hard or exsensive to replace. If someone thinks they know that would be great. thanks for any effort put in to this
10-05-2009, 08:11 AM
#4267
my car has a loud lifter nose its when i start the car but when i get in about 3rd gear it goes away and if i go for a nice long drive at like 55 and come back the noise is gone but once th engine cools and i start it back up the noise is back . I've read on hear that it could be the vtc's . does any one think they know what it is . and what are vtc's and are they hard or exsensive to replace. If someone thinks they know that would be great. thanks for any effort put in to this
10-05-2009, 11:08 AM
#4269
Sounds like VTC's would be the first thing to look into. Try grounding them. There are a million threads around here on VTC's and how to go about grounding them. Just do a search, grab a beer, and get comfortable because you could spend days with all the info on the subject.
10-06-2009, 09:46 AM
#4270
i went to a shop today to see about getting my thermosat replaced and they tryed to tell me that it would be like 200 $ because its located under the intake manfold i think there rong does any one know its a 93 nissan maxima se i belive its just under the lower radiator hose housing but i cound be rong myself
Very easy to do, man. Shouldn't take much time at all.
Last edited by tresboi; 10-06-2009 at 09:49 AM.
10-07-2009, 03:13 PM
#4271
ok i want to know the exact model of my car, i dont know which i have.
its a 90 maxima
*automatic
*digital cluster
*buttons under the ashtray that lets you choose from comfort or sport suspension.
*moon roof
its a 90 maxima
*automatic
*digital cluster
*buttons under the ashtray that lets you choose from comfort or sport suspension.
*moon roof
10-07-2009, 04:45 PM
#4272
Tranny stuck in 2nd
Hey i have a 89 5 speed. The tranny was shot when i got her so i got a used one. Tore it apart and gave it a good cleaning. Got it back in and went throught the gears and all was fine. Went through em again and when i pulled it into neutral from reverse it stuck in a forward gear. I couldnt get to first second or third, barly into forth and could put it fifth and reverse. Whenever i did it would stall out so i was thinking maybe second was stuck. Tore it back apart and saw nuthing out of the ordinary. Put it back together and she drove fine till today. Shes stuck in second gear. Right now the trannys apart and still looks like nuthins wrong. Im thinking the springs that hold the barings for the selector shaffs are getting weak. I work at a shop and moved her this morning and she was fine. Went to move her and was stuck in a gear. So im just tryin to get other peaoples input or to see if anyones rin into this problem before.
10-07-2009, 05:35 PM
#4273
Never heard of any SE's coming with a digi-cluster, tho...
Last edited by BenStoked; 10-07-2009 at 05:37 PM.
10-07-2009, 05:53 PM
#4274
Ok, I got everything I need to fix my exhaust leak in two weeks but just to be sure. Does the long threaded end of the exhaust stud goes to the manifold and the short threaded end goes to the head?
10-07-2009, 06:02 PM
#4275
10-07-2009, 06:21 PM
#4276
10-08-2009, 09:40 PM
#4278
ok so i get my exhaust manifold fixed cuz the studs were broken flush and now the damn car shakes (yes i know i need to replace the motor mounts) i guess i didnt feel the big shake cuz the exhaust was leaking :/
my question is... what else should i get replaced while they change my motor mounts?
anything i should take advantage of changing while the engine is out so i wont have to do it later and spend more money?
my question is... what else should i get replaced while they change my motor mounts?
anything i should take advantage of changing while the engine is out so i wont have to do it later and spend more money?
10-09-2009, 07:26 AM
#4279
ok so i get my exhaust manifold fixed cuz the studs were broken flush and now the damn car shakes (yes i know i need to replace the motor mounts) i guess i didnt feel the big shake cuz the exhaust was leaking :/
my question is... what else should i get replaced while they change my motor mounts?
anything i should take advantage of changing while the engine is out so i wont have to do it later and spend more money?
my question is... what else should i get replaced while they change my motor mounts?
anything i should take advantage of changing while the engine is out so i wont have to do it later and spend more money?
10-09-2009, 10:46 PM
#4280
ok so i get my exhaust manifold fixed cuz the studs were broken flush and now the damn car shakes (yes i know i need to replace the motor mounts) i guess i didnt feel the big shake cuz the exhaust was leaking :/
my question is... what else should i get replaced while they change my motor mounts?
anything i should take advantage of changing while the engine is out so i wont have to do it later and spend more money?
my question is... what else should i get replaced while they change my motor mounts?
anything i should take advantage of changing while the engine is out so i wont have to do it later and spend more money?
if your engine is vibrating that badly, you may want to check your injectors' resistances. I know my mounts are bad (
), but it isn't really noticeable to most people who drive my car (aside from me).