*NOOBIES* The "I am new here,but have a question" thread..(post your questions here)
10-19-2009, 07:10 PM
#4321
1990 Max, 160k, Florida car until three years ago when it migrated north to New Hampshire. I replaced the CV's and suddenly had a mystery oil leak. I checked the seals where they enter the tranny, dry as a bone. Well about a week later, on comes the brake light. Fill up the fluid, go about my life. Three days later, it's on again and I have no brakes. The light switch clicked on, my mystery oil had nothing to do with the CV replacement, it was the breaks... This definitely helped explain why the oil didn't smell like MTF or engine oil. None the less, I've traced it to a single location.
I don't know the technical lingo for all the parts i'm about to explain, but please bear with me. There are two break lines and three fuel lines, they all come together under the fuel filter area, are bundled up with one of those seperator things that make them line up nice and neat and they head down and out of sight. Under the car, they magically reappear and head off to their respective paths. I suspect the leak is where you can't physically see or touch the lines because they're between the body and the A-arm. (Near the back of the a-arm? Control arm, sway bar area?) I'll run with a-arm for now. This a-arm area is soaked in brake fluid, dripping off two of the giant bolts holding this thing on.
The lines under the hood up to the point where they disapear under the car are immaculate. When they reappear under the car, they still look amazing. There is no evidence of fluid leaking from the bottom of the MS, and I even looked inside under the carpet (per other posts I searched). Dry dry dry.
Should there be a leak between where they leave sight from under the hood and where they reappear under the car, whats the plan for splicing the break lines? (with the new fittings and flares...none of this compression fitting business...I learned my lesson on my last project car) Do I really have to take that whole giant a-arm, swaybar looking thing off to do this? Or am I completely missing the leak and wasting my time removing things I probablly shouldn't be removing?
My apologies on the novel....
I don't know the technical lingo for all the parts i'm about to explain, but please bear with me. There are two break lines and three fuel lines, they all come together under the fuel filter area, are bundled up with one of those seperator things that make them line up nice and neat and they head down and out of sight. Under the car, they magically reappear and head off to their respective paths. I suspect the leak is where you can't physically see or touch the lines because they're between the body and the A-arm. (Near the back of the a-arm? Control arm, sway bar area?) I'll run with a-arm for now. This a-arm area is soaked in brake fluid, dripping off two of the giant bolts holding this thing on.
The lines under the hood up to the point where they disapear under the car are immaculate. When they reappear under the car, they still look amazing. There is no evidence of fluid leaking from the bottom of the MS, and I even looked inside under the carpet (per other posts I searched). Dry dry dry.
Should there be a leak between where they leave sight from under the hood and where they reappear under the car, whats the plan for splicing the break lines? (with the new fittings and flares...none of this compression fitting business...I learned my lesson on my last project car) Do I really have to take that whole giant a-arm, swaybar looking thing off to do this? Or am I completely missing the leak and wasting my time removing things I probablly shouldn't be removing?
My apologies on the novel....
10-21-2009, 05:55 PM
#4323
ok so i took my digital gauge cluster because the speedo and tach part wouldnt light up.. is there a pretty easy way for a noob like me to take it apart and resoder it or sumthin.. or wat? or would it just be easier to hit up a junkyard for the part.. also.. wat is the difference between a digital dash and a analog dash.. like when it come to the harnesses and stuff? is it like pug and play or would you have to splice sum ****? thanks
10-22-2009, 12:04 PM
#4324
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 1
engine lugs on acceleration and pulsates
i have a 91 maxima and the motor has a rough acceleration to it. sometimes it clears up then out of nowhere it starts again. i have replaced the rotor button, cap and plugs. i just recently pulled the intake and ohmed the injectors. i replaced 2 because they were not within 10-14 ohms. put new gaskets on and it still does the same thing. i have a vac/boost gauge on it with no turbo. in park or neutral if i give it gas and level off the throttle, the gauge goes from 20 to 0 but slowly goes back to 20 even when im at 3000 rpm. please help
10-22-2009, 07:47 PM
#4325
ok so im in nyc and want to drive to florida, what should i make sure i have done to the car before i take the long drive?
what should i do, drive half way then drive the rest the next day ro drive straight?
i juss did a tune up
what should i do, drive half way then drive the rest the next day ro drive straight?
i juss did a tune up
10-23-2009, 08:00 AM
#4326
Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 51
Good luck.
10-24-2009, 08:38 AM
#4327
Not sure about your 90 MAX, but some MTX trannies share the brake resevoir for the clutch hydrolic system. Maybe the leak is in your clutch line, slave cylinder or master cylinder. If your leaking enough fluid to deplete the reseviour in three days, it's got to be leaving evidence somewhere.... RotoryHead had a good idea. Lift the front of the car up and have a friend operate the clutch (if yours is MTX) and brakes several times while you look for leaks.
Good luck.
Good luck.
I also agree, lift and stomp. and if you have kids, this is a good excuse to use child labor
10-24-2009, 04:26 PM
#4328
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 2
Bad fuel injector?
Hi Folks,
I'm new to this forum, but I do know my way around cars fairly well. My other car is a '66 Pontiac GTO...
Anyway, my 1993 Maxima GXE has been running roughly for the last day or so. During the last few months, it would run roughly only at start up (less than 30 seconds), but then smooth out. Also, this would only happen about one time in every 10 starts. Now it runs rough at all times, all temps, and all RPMs.
To make a long story short(er), I have eliminated a number of possibilities by doing the following:
- I removed individual spark plug wires with the engine running. The engine runs even more roughly when I remove plug wires #1,3,4,5, and 6, but nothing changes when I remove spark plug wire #2. Since nothing changes when I remove plug wire #2, this leads me to believe that Cylinder 2 is the one that is misfiring.
- I checked the spark plugs. They all look good, but just to be sure I switched the #2 and #4 plugs, but cylinder 2 still didnt' fire. This rules out plugs.
- I checked the plug wires with an indicator light. The indicator light illuminates with the same intensity and there is a strong arc coming out of all 6 wires. I even temporarily swapped the #2 and #4 plug wires just to be sure, and cylinder #2 still didn't fire. This rules out the plug wires and other ignition parts.
- I checked all of the injector plug connections. They all look clean and dry.
- I checked the electrical resistance of all injectors. The #2 injector indicated about 16.6 or 16.7 ohms, whereas all the others indicated about 11.8 to 12 ohms. I understand that they should be between 10-14 ohms.
Does an ohm reading of 16.7 mean that my injector is faulty?
Thanks in advance for any help you may be able to provide!!
I'm new to this forum, but I do know my way around cars fairly well. My other car is a '66 Pontiac GTO...
Anyway, my 1993 Maxima GXE has been running roughly for the last day or so. During the last few months, it would run roughly only at start up (less than 30 seconds), but then smooth out. Also, this would only happen about one time in every 10 starts. Now it runs rough at all times, all temps, and all RPMs.
To make a long story short(er), I have eliminated a number of possibilities by doing the following:
- I removed individual spark plug wires with the engine running. The engine runs even more roughly when I remove plug wires #1,3,4,5, and 6, but nothing changes when I remove spark plug wire #2. Since nothing changes when I remove plug wire #2, this leads me to believe that Cylinder 2 is the one that is misfiring.
- I checked the spark plugs. They all look good, but just to be sure I switched the #2 and #4 plugs, but cylinder 2 still didnt' fire. This rules out plugs.
- I checked the plug wires with an indicator light. The indicator light illuminates with the same intensity and there is a strong arc coming out of all 6 wires. I even temporarily swapped the #2 and #4 plug wires just to be sure, and cylinder #2 still didn't fire. This rules out the plug wires and other ignition parts.
- I checked all of the injector plug connections. They all look clean and dry.
- I checked the electrical resistance of all injectors. The #2 injector indicated about 16.6 or 16.7 ohms, whereas all the others indicated about 11.8 to 12 ohms. I understand that they should be between 10-14 ohms.
Does an ohm reading of 16.7 mean that my injector is faulty?
Thanks in advance for any help you may be able to provide!!
10-24-2009, 08:36 PM
#4330
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 26
hey does anybody know whats wrong here ? I have a 93 se with around 130000 miles
the runs great most of the time but sometimes not all the time i will pull away from a dead stop and have no power it feels like i have one horse power. I am moving but know matter how hard i step on the gas it wont accelerate any faster. its not reving high when this happens. Its like an old lady is driving who's trying to save gas. I'll have a ton of car behind me untill i reach a desent speed.its hard to explane. I hope some one gets it.The car doesn't do this all the time just when it wants to. anyone have this problem ? thank
the runs great most of the time but sometimes not all the time i will pull away from a dead stop and have no power it feels like i have one horse power. I am moving but know matter how hard i step on the gas it wont accelerate any faster. its not reving high when this happens. Its like an old lady is driving who's trying to save gas. I'll have a ton of car behind me untill i reach a desent speed.its hard to explane. I hope some one gets it.The car doesn't do this all the time just when it wants to. anyone have this problem ? thank
10-24-2009, 09:04 PM
#4331
hey does anybody know whats wrong here ? I have a 93 se with around 130000 miles
the runs great most of the time but sometimes not all the time i will pull away from a dead stop and have no power it feels like i have one horse power. I am moving but know matter how hard i step on the gas it wont accelerate any faster. its not reving high when this happens. Its like an old lady is driving who's trying to save gas. I'll have a ton of car behind me untill i reach a desent speed.its hard to explane. I hope some one gets it.The car doesn't do this all the time just when it wants to. anyone have this problem ? thank
the runs great most of the time but sometimes not all the time i will pull away from a dead stop and have no power it feels like i have one horse power. I am moving but know matter how hard i step on the gas it wont accelerate any faster. its not reving high when this happens. Its like an old lady is driving who's trying to save gas. I'll have a ton of car behind me untill i reach a desent speed.its hard to explane. I hope some one gets it.The car doesn't do this all the time just when it wants to. anyone have this problem ? thank
10-24-2009, 09:18 PM
#4332
Hi Folks,
I'm new to this forum, but I do know my way around cars fairly well. My other car is a '66 Pontiac GTO...
Anyway, my 1993 Maxima GXE has been running roughly for the last day or so. During the last few months, it would run roughly only at start up (less than 30 seconds), but then smooth out. Also, this would only happen about one time in every 10 starts. Now it runs rough at all times, all temps, and all RPMs.
To make a long story short(er), I have eliminated a number of possibilities by doing the following:
- I removed individual spark plug wires with the engine running. The engine runs even more roughly when I remove plug wires #1,3,4,5, and 6, but nothing changes when I remove spark plug wire #2. Since nothing changes when I remove plug wire #2, this leads me to believe that Cylinder 2 is the one that is misfiring.
- I checked the spark plugs. They all look good, but just to be sure I switched the #2 and #4 plugs, but cylinder 2 still didnt' fire. This rules out plugs.
- I checked the plug wires with an indicator light. The indicator light illuminates with the same intensity and there is a strong arc coming out of all 6 wires. I even temporarily swapped the #2 and #4 plug wires just to be sure, and cylinder #2 still didn't fire. This rules out the plug wires and other ignition parts.
- I checked all of the injector plug connections. They all look clean and dry.
- I checked the electrical resistance of all injectors. The #2 injector indicated about 16.6 or 16.7 ohms, whereas all the others indicated about 11.8 to 12 ohms. I understand that they should be between 10-14 ohms.
Does an ohm reading of 16.7 mean that my injector is faulty?
Thanks in advance for any help you may be able to provide!!
I'm new to this forum, but I do know my way around cars fairly well. My other car is a '66 Pontiac GTO...
Anyway, my 1993 Maxima GXE has been running roughly for the last day or so. During the last few months, it would run roughly only at start up (less than 30 seconds), but then smooth out. Also, this would only happen about one time in every 10 starts. Now it runs rough at all times, all temps, and all RPMs.
To make a long story short(er), I have eliminated a number of possibilities by doing the following:
- I removed individual spark plug wires with the engine running. The engine runs even more roughly when I remove plug wires #1,3,4,5, and 6, but nothing changes when I remove spark plug wire #2. Since nothing changes when I remove plug wire #2, this leads me to believe that Cylinder 2 is the one that is misfiring.
- I checked the spark plugs. They all look good, but just to be sure I switched the #2 and #4 plugs, but cylinder 2 still didnt' fire. This rules out plugs.
- I checked the plug wires with an indicator light. The indicator light illuminates with the same intensity and there is a strong arc coming out of all 6 wires. I even temporarily swapped the #2 and #4 plug wires just to be sure, and cylinder #2 still didn't fire. This rules out the plug wires and other ignition parts.
- I checked all of the injector plug connections. They all look clean and dry.
- I checked the electrical resistance of all injectors. The #2 injector indicated about 16.6 or 16.7 ohms, whereas all the others indicated about 11.8 to 12 ohms. I understand that they should be between 10-14 ohms.
Does an ohm reading of 16.7 mean that my injector is faulty?
Thanks in advance for any help you may be able to provide!!
if it tests good, you haven't lost any money (or no more than a few bucks) and can enjoy installing a new injector.
if it tests bad, I hope you enjoy tracing wires...
10-24-2009, 09:52 PM
#4333
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 26
hey does anybody know whats wrong here ? I have a 93 se with around 130000 miles
the runs great most of the time but sometimes not all the time i will pull away from a dead stop and have no power it feels like i have one horse power. I am moving but know matter how hard i step on the gas it wont accelerate any faster. its not reving high when this happens. Its like an old lady is driving who's trying to save gas. I'll have a ton of car behind me untill i reach a desent speed.its hard to explane. I hope some one gets it.The car doesn't do this all the time just when it wants to. anyone have this problem ? thank
the runs great most of the time but sometimes not all the time i will pull away from a dead stop and have no power it feels like i have one horse power. I am moving but know matter how hard i step on the gas it wont accelerate any faster. its not reving high when this happens. Its like an old lady is driving who's trying to save gas. I'll have a ton of car behind me untill i reach a desent speed.its hard to explane. I hope some one gets it.The car doesn't do this all the time just when it wants to. anyone have this problem ? thank
10-25-2009, 10:24 AM
#4334
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 2
if you live in the US, most autozone/oriley/etc. places rent/loan tools. see if you can find one with a noid light. make sure it's sending a signal to the injector, before rushing out and buying a new (NOT a reman) injector.
if it tests good, you haven't lost any money (or no more than a few bucks) and can enjoy installing a new injector.
if it tests bad, I hope you enjoy tracing wires...
if it tests good, you haven't lost any money (or no more than a few bucks) and can enjoy installing a new injector.
if it tests bad, I hope you enjoy tracing wires...
I will perform the noid test eventually, but since the ohms for this particular injector are up to 16.7, can't we basically assume that it's a problem with the injector and not the signal? Unless it's both the wiring and the injector, but that seems less likely. Then again, I guess I'm still curious to know if others think that an ohm reading of 16.7 is simply too much resistance for an injector to function properly. 16.7 ohms oesn't seem that high, if 14 ohms is the upper limit of normal... But what do I know?
I don't know what's worse, tracing bad wires or replacing an injector. Neither one seems particularly fun.
10-25-2009, 11:55 AM
#4335
The noid light is the only thing I have not done yet. I tried, but the auto parts store and auto shop nearest to me both didn't have one...
I will perform the noid test eventually, but since the ohms for this particular injector are up to 16.7, can't we basically assume that it's a problem with the injector and not the signal? Unless it's both the wiring and the injector, but that seems less likely. Then again, I guess I'm still curious to know if others think that an ohm reading of 16.7 is simply too much resistance for an injector to function properly. 16.7 ohms oesn't seem that high, if 14 ohms is the upper limit of normal... But what do I know?
I don't know what's worse, tracing bad wires or replacing an injector. Neither one seems particularly fun.
I will perform the noid test eventually, but since the ohms for this particular injector are up to 16.7, can't we basically assume that it's a problem with the injector and not the signal? Unless it's both the wiring and the injector, but that seems less likely. Then again, I guess I'm still curious to know if others think that an ohm reading of 16.7 is simply too much resistance for an injector to function properly. 16.7 ohms oesn't seem that high, if 14 ohms is the upper limit of normal... But what do I know?
I don't know what's worse, tracing bad wires or replacing an injector. Neither one seems particularly fun.
I have seen people with much higher ratings, and the injector still fired (intermittently). yes the injector is out of spec, an it may be a good idea to replace it, but if it isn't getting signal (again, free test), it may be something simple like a lose/corroded connector, elsewhere.
10-25-2009, 05:18 PM
#4336
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 1
Brand noobie needs help (cylinder head)
First...Great forum. Loads of information. Seems like a lot of cool people here who are willing to help.
Second... I have a 92 Max with VG30E engine. To make a long story short I need to know what the torque spec and sequence for the cylinder head is. I had an exhaust leak from broken studs. Took off the heads to fix them at work now I need them installed and can't find the info.
Please help.
Second... I have a 92 Max with VG30E engine. To make a long story short I need to know what the torque spec and sequence for the cylinder head is. I had an exhaust leak from broken studs. Took off the heads to fix them at work now I need them installed and can't find the info.
Please help.
10-25-2009, 05:19 PM
#4337
lol oh. clogged cat perhaps? do you know how to get the catalytic converter off (assuming the bolts/nuts aren't rusted solid)? and if you can get it off would you be able to drive the car without it or are you in a populated area where you would get pulled over for having no exhaust?
10-25-2009, 06:09 PM
#4338
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 26
lol oh. clogged cat perhaps? do you know how to get the catalytic converter off (assuming the bolts/nuts aren't rusted solid)? and if you can get it off would you be able to drive the car without it or are you in a populated area where you would get pulled over for having no exhaust?
10-26-2009, 09:19 PM
#4339
well, ive got a st00pid question. lol
sometimes when i put my 92 GXE into park slowly, you can feel something kinda "grab" or "clench" the shifter when it gets close to P, at that point i release the **** you hold in to shift and let go of the shifter.
im hoping that its fully in park and im not screwing up something, it doesnt do it when i shift into park at medium pace, but when im tired i find myself going into park slowly and when i get to park it does the "grab", its just the parking mechanism grabbing the shifter and its fully in park right ?
im just a bit worried because when it does the grab im guessing its in park fully and i let go of the **** you push in to shift at that point
thanks
sometimes when i put my 92 GXE into park slowly, you can feel something kinda "grab" or "clench" the shifter when it gets close to P, at that point i release the **** you hold in to shift and let go of the shifter.
im hoping that its fully in park and im not screwing up something, it doesnt do it when i shift into park at medium pace, but when im tired i find myself going into park slowly and when i get to park it does the "grab", its just the parking mechanism grabbing the shifter and its fully in park right ?
im just a bit worried because when it does the grab im guessing its in park fully and i let go of the **** you push in to shift at that pointthanks
Last edited by chrome91; 10-26-2009 at 09:21 PM.
10-27-2009, 06:30 AM
#4340
well, ive got a st00pid question. lol
sometimes when i put my 92 GXE into park slowly, you can feel something kinda "grab" or "clench" the shifter when it gets close to P, at that point i release the **** you hold in to shift and let go of the shifter.
im hoping that its fully in park and im not screwing up something, it doesnt do it when i shift into park at medium pace, but when im tired i find myself going into park slowly and when i get to park it does the "grab", its just the parking mechanism grabbing the shifter and its fully in park right ? im just a bit worried because when it does the grab im guessing its in park fully and i let go of the **** you push in to shift at that point
thanks
sometimes when i put my 92 GXE into park slowly, you can feel something kinda "grab" or "clench" the shifter when it gets close to P, at that point i release the **** you hold in to shift and let go of the shifter.
im hoping that its fully in park and im not screwing up something, it doesnt do it when i shift into park at medium pace, but when im tired i find myself going into park slowly and when i get to park it does the "grab", its just the parking mechanism grabbing the shifter and its fully in park right ?
im just a bit worried because when it does the grab im guessing its in park fully and i let go of the **** you push in to shift at that pointthanks
10-27-2009, 06:53 AM
#4341
10-27-2009, 06:56 AM
#4342
i would still check myself to be sure.. considering that it's almost as easy as breathing. that's why i never let other people work on my cars anymore, too many times people said something was "fine" when it couldn't have been farther from fine. if they didn't take stuff apart, then they didn't properly check it.
10-27-2009, 07:33 AM
#4343
yeah im just gonna check it, its still doing that crap where it does nothing when you turn the key and you have to get out or stick out your leg, rock it back and forth, and something clicks and she starts. the same place was wrong with my tranny (i was supposed to get interior work done at another place, but the place i went to about the bushings said my tranny felt bad so i had to cancel the interior work appointment and get my tranny looked at by a tranny pro who said my tranny is fine). Im dropping it off for the interior work in a hour and i'll have it back tomorrow
is the grabbing when i go into park slowly alright?
is the grabbing when i go into park slowly alright?
10-27-2009, 07:41 AM
#4344
yeah im just gonna check it, its still doing that crap where it does nothing when you turn the key and you have to get out or stick out your leg, rock it back and forth, and something clicks and she starts. the same place was wrong with my tranny (i was supposed to get interior work done at another place, but the place i went to about the bushings said my tranny felt bad so i had to cancel the interior work appointment and get my tranny looked at by a tranny pro who said my tranny is fine). Im dropping it off for the interior work in a hour and i'll have it back tomorrow
is the grabbing when i go into park slowly alright?
is the grabbing when i go into park slowly alright?
10-27-2009, 08:14 AM
#4345
i feel the grab, it kinda pulls the shifter into park
i have to figure out why it does that crap where i have to rock it, its embarrassing every time i drop it off to get work done to tell them if it doesnt start you have to rock it
i have to figure out why it does that crap where i have to rock it, its embarrassing every time i drop it off to get work done to tell them if it doesnt start you have to rock it
10-27-2009, 10:00 AM
#4346
well she's dropped off, i bought a new set of Sparco seats, theyre the competition ones and Sparco didnt have 3rd gen install parts and that douchebaggery for 3rd gen aftermarket so i have to suck it up and go custom
10-27-2009, 10:06 AM
#4347
questions.
would bad injectors mad ur car shake?
how difficult is this job to do it on ur own?
i bought motors mounts thinking it was bad ones causing the shake but the mechanic said its 2 bad injectors -__-
i have to drive to florida this friday and i want the shaking to stop.
would bad injectors mad ur car shake?
how difficult is this job to do it on ur own?
i bought motors mounts thinking it was bad ones causing the shake but the mechanic said its 2 bad injectors -__-
i have to drive to florida this friday and i want the shaking to stop.
10-27-2009, 10:11 AM
#4348
questions.
would bad injectors mad ur car shake?
how difficult is this job to do it on ur own?
i bought motors mounts thinking it was bad ones causing the shake but the mechanic said its 2 bad injectors -__-
i have to drive to florida this friday and i want the shaking to stop.
would bad injectors mad ur car shake?
how difficult is this job to do it on ur own?
i bought motors mounts thinking it was bad ones causing the shake but the mechanic said its 2 bad injectors -__-
i have to drive to florida this friday and i want the shaking to stop.
10-27-2009, 10:21 AM
#4349
the auto part is selling me 2 for $111 and they would give me $20 back for the old ones.
since im driving to florida from nyc im changing the control arms (i bought the kit) and im changing the motor mounts since i already bought them.
im thinking of getting my 3 side belts changed and the injectors.
im lost, i dont know if i should leave the bad injectors or change them cuz i just want the shaking to stop.
what would you recommend i do?
10-27-2009, 01:37 PM
#4350
crap, they just called me, to weld in the Sparco's they need the non-power seat bases, my 92 GXE has power seats. What years had manual seats? theres 5 3rd gens at pick-n-pull so im hoping one has manual seat brackets
10-27-2009, 02:29 PM
#4351
all years... power seats were an option, not standard.
10-27-2009, 02:33 PM
#4352
so bad injectors do make ur car shake?
the auto part is selling me 2 for $111 and they would give me $20 back for the old ones.
since im driving to florida from nyc im changing the control arms (i bought the kit) and im changing the motor mounts since i already bought them.
im thinking of getting my 3 side belts changed and the injectors.
im lost, i dont know if i should leave the bad injectors or change them cuz i just want the shaking to stop.
what would you recommend i do?
the auto part is selling me 2 for $111 and they would give me $20 back for the old ones.
since im driving to florida from nyc im changing the control arms (i bought the kit) and im changing the motor mounts since i already bought them.
im thinking of getting my 3 side belts changed and the injectors.
im lost, i dont know if i should leave the bad injectors or change them cuz i just want the shaking to stop.
what would you recommend i do?
as for the ones you're getting.. 2 for $111 total or $111 each? If it's 2 for $111 total, then they are remans, and they WILL fail and you WILL have to do the job all over again. Ask nc90gxe (2 of his remans died/are dying this month). Or any other member that's ever used reman injectors. Cuz see what alot of people do is they will buy 6 remans when 1 or 2 injectors fail, then the company will just clean and rebox the other 4-5 good ones, and resell them to you. Basically remans are just someone's used cores, which already have probably 100k-200k miles on them. Our injectors cannot be "rebuilt" like brake calipers or transmissions.. they are a sealed unit.
10-27-2009, 02:36 PM
#4353
10-27-2009, 05:57 PM
#4354
Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 51
Does anyone know how the spark signal is controlled on the VE30DE? I have a 92 SE that was in need of VTC rebuilds. After rebuilding the VTCs and putting everything back together it now is only running on 3 cylinders. The right (firewall side) three. Nothing to the front. For those who don't know, the VE30DE has individual coil packs, no distributor or wire.
I didn't remove the Cam Positioning Sensor, just the wiring.
I double checked the cam timing marks, and did a compression test to verify. I have good compression on both banks.
Also, I checked for any CEL codes, all I get is a 55 saying no codes.
All 6 spark plugs have about 150 miles on them.
I don't think it matters, but I replaced the drivers side axel and output shaft seal at the same time.
Help please.
I didn't remove the Cam Positioning Sensor, just the wiring.
I double checked the cam timing marks, and did a compression test to verify. I have good compression on both banks.
Also, I checked for any CEL codes, all I get is a 55 saying no codes.
All 6 spark plugs have about 150 miles on them.
I don't think it matters, but I replaced the drivers side axel and output shaft seal at the same time.
Help please.
I took the VCs off again to realize the rear head cam marks were off by half of a tooth advanced. I guess I didn't realize it since the rear head is on a slope, and looking at an angle, it looked to line up. I was also able to get the engine running again on all 6 cyl by retarding the CPS. This is what lead me back to the cam timing.
Here's the real question. Is anyone here familiar with the VE timing chains, and had experience with the chains stretching? This is my theory now. Both the front and rear bank timing marks do not line up perfectly when the Crankshaft is at TDC. Unfortunatly I didn't check this before pulling the VTC's out. I just lined up the Cams and pulled the VTCs out without looking at the Crank timing mark. I know chains are pone to some stretch, and well I'm thining with the VTC being bad for a couple years may exagerate the stretch. Can anyone confirm this before I pull the heads off to replace the the timing chains and guides?
10-27-2009, 06:01 PM
#4355
yup. forgot the size, but it's like a 14mm *(guessing)* on all four bolts. also need a phillips screw driver to properly remove the covers on the back two.
10-27-2009, 06:17 PM
#4356
10-27-2009, 07:31 PM
#4357
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 5
Fix Attempt #1
None the less, when I swapped out the MC, there was def fluid in the little indent where it bolts on. After a wicked fun bleeding session, the new one feels like a million bucks and I'm two days strong without drips on the garage floor.
In hind sight, the part that I missed on the original post was the fact that a gas line, or some other black metal tubing, was a little wet/sticky looking under the MC. One wipe with a paper towel removed all the paint and spurred the replacement before I did any cutting of perfect looking parts.
One last thought, what the heck were they thinking routing the lines in quite possibly the most impossible place ever to maintain in the future? If it was the stupid break lines being junk, it would have been impossible to follow the same route as the stock lines. Leaving you with a horrible option to go around a giant knuckle for the stearing setup. Annoying for maintenance, yet well protected from road slop.
I appreciate the help.
10-27-2009, 09:35 PM
#4358
the guy at the shop said theyre easy to take out, they got as far as taking my seats out before seeing theyre power seats. ive got my Max and seats now so i just gotta run to pick n pull, get the brackets, give em a call and book a new day do get welding done, sounds like Friday or Monday. All im gonna say is one 3rd gen has to have manual seats at pick n pull.
the four bolts i know, but what cover is it that you need to take off? also, im guessing manual seat brackets bolt in the same as power seats? thanks for the info, by the sounds of it these brackets will be the only thing in the way of some killer seats
10-28-2009, 07:26 AM
#4359
Hey guys, new guy here. Tried to post a noob thread to tell everyone a little about myself but couldn't find a noob section.
Anyway, Im Ray from Oklahoma City and I just purchased a 2006 Maxima SE 6 spd manual and love this car so far. Only one issue, 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears act funny. Lets say I put it in first gear, when I depress the clutch to put it in second, the RPM stays put or goes up a little, I can hear the car rev high like if the car is in neutral and reving. It does it in all 3 gears, takes few seconds for the RPM to drop, unless I shift right away. Any ideas?? I purchased a 40K warranty so Im good and would like to get it fixed, whatever it is. The car has 35K.
Thanks
Anyway, Im Ray from Oklahoma City and I just purchased a 2006 Maxima SE 6 spd manual and love this car so far. Only one issue, 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears act funny. Lets say I put it in first gear, when I depress the clutch to put it in second, the RPM stays put or goes up a little, I can hear the car rev high like if the car is in neutral and reving. It does it in all 3 gears, takes few seconds for the RPM to drop, unless I shift right away. Any ideas?? I purchased a 40K warranty so Im good and would like to get it fixed, whatever it is. The car has 35K.
Thanks
10-28-2009, 08:03 AM
#4360
Hey guys, new guy here. Tried to post a noob thread to tell everyone a little about myself but couldn't find a noob section.
Anyway, Im Ray from Oklahoma City and I just purchased a 2006 Maxima SE 6 spd manual and love this car so far. Only one issue, 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears act funny. Lets say I put it in first gear, when I depress the clutch to put it in second, the RPM stays put or goes up a little, I can hear the car rev high like if the car is in neutral and reving. It does it in all 3 gears, takes few seconds for the RPM to drop, unless I shift right away. Any ideas?? I purchased a 40K warranty so Im good and would like to get it fixed, whatever it is. The car has 35K.
Thanks
Anyway, Im Ray from Oklahoma City and I just purchased a 2006 Maxima SE 6 spd manual and love this car so far. Only one issue, 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears act funny. Lets say I put it in first gear, when I depress the clutch to put it in second, the RPM stays put or goes up a little, I can hear the car rev high like if the car is in neutral and reving. It does it in all 3 gears, takes few seconds for the RPM to drop, unless I shift right away. Any ideas?? I purchased a 40K warranty so Im good and would like to get it fixed, whatever it is. The car has 35K.
Thanks
BUT since my brother has an '05 6spd... i know what you're talking about. The car has an electronic drive-by-wire throttle body. It is laggy when shutting the throttle. That is the source of all your problems, and the reason i'll never buy a 3.5L m/t Maxima. IF you are skilled enough, you can get a 2002 pathfinder TB and some compatible cable-driven gas pedal, drill a hole in the firewall for the cable, and be a happy man (attaching the APP sensor to the TPS wire instead, to fool the ECU into thinking you didn't change anything). Except that cruise control woudln't work anymore without further modifications (ie finding a place to add a vg30 cruise control actuator/control unit and wiring it into the car's harness). Otherwise it's something you're gonna have to live with. Cuz on a scale of 1-10 that mod is probably a 6 or 7 (10 being building your own road-legal car from scratch) in order to do it right.
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 10-28-2009 at 08:09 AM.