CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

keep in mind that 190hp is at the crank (aka "brake horsepower")... if you factor in friction of the tranny and axles and wheel bearings and tires, you get "wheel horsepower" which is what the rolling dyno measures. so 174WHP out of a 190BHP engine is actually pretty good.. it is probably somehow making more than 190HP at the crank already.

wpendl1

#2 is on the left side (radiator side) of the engine, easy to gain access to without removing anything... 1, 3, and 5 are on the right side (firewall side) under the IM.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

you don't have the same engine as the other guy. he has the 160HP SOHC VG30E, which also came in the Quest, Pathfinder, z31 300zx, pickup truck, and Infiniti M30. You have the Maxima-only 190HP DOHC VE30DE. Intake manifolds cover opposite valve covers between them, and subsequently the VE covers the odd injectors, the VG covers the evens.

VG (89-94 GXE, 89-91 SE)


VE (92-94 SE)

wpendl1

True, different ecu is highly possible.

240 hp Not for a long time. Factory rating was actually 245 IIRC, however I'm closer to 275 conservatevly at the crank. Full exhaust - cats, Nismo CAI and a SAFCII makes it a different car.

wpendl1

Oppps, sorry, your right. I saw SE, but missed the 91.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

well most (new) people call the VE the "SE engine" for, which in a way is like calling all rectangles "squares". But yea.. the #2 injector on the VG is totally covered by the intake, whereas the D-shaped hole in the middle of the VG intake does not block injectors 4 or 6, and of course 1, 3, and 5 are out in the open.

Mattx4

#2 can be accessed with the intake on if you are very careful. I have actually been able to disconnect the connector with the intake on even though it was a pain in the you know what. I think my wiring harness is bad. number two is the only injector connection showing nearly that much voltage and it is the only cylinder misfiring. It is a mystery to me. It seemed so simple to fix yet I am baffled. Why does that connection have so much power running to it constantly? WTF? I hope it's not the ECU itself. That would suck. Thanks for all of your help. If anyone can help me I would really appreciate it. This forum has already helped me tremendously. Thank everyone.

Mattx4

AlsoI have tested the four pin harness connection and it still shows 12.43 volts constantly which shows that it is probably not the harness but maybe the ECU? Idk I'm really confused now and I don't know what to do.

PMAX08

can someone tell me what kind of tool i need to open up the fill plug on my MT with VLSD, the one from the 92se, it looks like i need a 3/4" square tool of some kind, couldn't find where it mentioned this in the chilton or FSM pdf format so any help is greatly appreciated

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

ignore that, use the speedo sensor hole. its a regular metric socket.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

i was able to get the square hole off with a 1/2" ratchet, but it's not as easy as the speedo sensor hole, but level-wise it's most accurate to use a healthy combo of the 2 (fill thru sensor hole, watch for some to ooze out the plug hole then you're at proper level)

Dirtylepp

Need some help, tried to start a new thread but just registered and it wouldnt let me....

Anyways, I just got a 90 maxima se, and im having some problems.

Problems:

1, check engine light on
2, when engine is quickly reved up i have intake backfire
3, put new plugs in, fouled within 5 mins of running
4, While running I pulled each plug wire to see if each cylinder is getting spark, they all are but when i pulled each one there was absolutely no change in rpms or performance of engine, (I had expected it to drop in rpms or start running bad, but didnt)

I have been trying to diagnosis the problem, and have been having a little trouble.

I have the factory manual, and was trying to see why the check engine light is on....so i have been trying to put the ecu into self-diagnosis mode, but when I torn the **** to the self-diag mode with the key turned to the on position, only the red led is on, it doesnt blink it just stays on and the green led doesnt turn on at all.

I was told by my friend who is a mechanic that it is running extremly rich, so i am assuming that one of the problems is the maf....but as far as the intake backfire the manual said to check the blow by hose that attaches to the pcv valve for crackes, it was cracked, so i replace it, but it also said if the hose is ok, there are deposites (most likely of carbon) on the intake valves. How do i go about solving that?? And if you can help me with my ecu problem it would be much appreciated. I would also like to add that the car is driveable, but i dont want to ingnore theses problem.

Any input from you experience maxima guys would be great.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

how far are you turning the **** on the ECU? all the way to the right till it stops? if you are doing that then it SHOULD start blinking.. if it isn't then there must be something wrong with the ECU.

Dirtylepp

yes i am turning it all the way...just the red led illuminates, no blinking, no green led, just steady red

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

i see. well i got your PM. hope that fixes it.

johnnyXsole

hi.i have a 2002 infiniti i35.ive been looking all over for a Evolution L&S A33 Signature Body Kit,can you help me out and tell me where i can find one?email me a jalmonds210@yahoo.com.i greatly appreciate your help!!

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

Wrong section bud, the I35 section is 2 down

RobinBIG

Its been maintained like a million dollar car, still smells new inside too!

Crashcourse

Hi,

I am new to the forum and just recently picked up a 1989 Maxima SE with a 3.0 V6.

I have searched for the manual, and came up with a link that no longer works. Anyone got a copy they can email to me?

Thanks,
Robert

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

http://forums.maxima.org/general-max...niti-fsms.html

go with the 94 maxima, its the oldest one in there. main differences are wiring will be different, and a few minor odds-and-ends.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

pmohr took down the FSMs, for the time being, at least.

(i just noticed we're the only 2 people on this page with avatars )

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

oops... didn't know, or notice.

OC91

I just got my first car and its a 2001 maxima. Everything is stock. I love my maxima but wished I got a 2002-2003. I love the grill of these cars, and the emblem is extra large. Does a 2002 or 2003 grill fit on a 2001? I've looked at a bunch of pics and the size looks very alike, but correct me if I'm wrong.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

This is the 3rd generation 1989-1994 section, you need to go to the 5th gen section

OC91

sorry

koceja

I have searched these forums MANY times, and appreciate the abundance of info here. In fact because of these board, I have power locks again!

However, I'm stumped. Got a Code 51 (fuel injector circuit). Was in cylinders 2 and 4. Tested all injectors, 2 and 4 were bad. Replaced em. Nothing changed. Cleaned the hell out of the injector wiring plugs, and ECU harness. #4 injector now clicks, but 2 doesn't. I tested #2, not getting full voltage.

So i've searched and searched here, but I cant find info on the wiring itself. Does the wiring go straight from the injector to the ECU? Could there be a relay? I'd love nothing more than to just run new wires, but i cant find any info on the injector wiring itself.

Thanks in advance!

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

on the front injector subharness there's 4 wires. 1 is common on all 3 injectors (forget what color) and the other 3 are unique to each injector. the common color is 12v from the battery. the unique colors are grounds back to the ECU. so check to see if you are indeed just missing that 12v or not. if you are missing it maybe there's a bad wire in the little subharness, but if you are not missing it then it could be a bad ground wire back to the ECU.

btw did you already ohm new #2 injector (new-new as in $115 bosch injector? reman (bad idea) or jy part?) and if so what did it say?

amansour14

service engine soon light is on .. any one can help ?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

yea i can help. try going to the right part of the forum. you're welcome.

bigb007

So one of my fuel injectors died today. I went to start the car tonight and it ran really bad and had a check engine light. It was code 51- fuel injector circuit open. So, I used my trusty DMM to ohm out the injectors. Sure enough, the front center injector was open.
I have searched the forums, and have found that the front injectors are supposed to be quicker and easier to replace. Some say my front center injector can be done in 20 minutes.
My question is: How do I replace the front center injector in 20 minutes as claimed?

koceja

Thank you!! I am going to trace wire in the AM. #2 is not getting the 12V (I tapped the wires so I could check them with the car running). So in theory, I could run a new 12v wire from the injector right to the post of the batter? I ask just to see if there's any relays in between, or if it's just pure raw 12v power. Thanks!

And yes, I ohm'd the new ones. I whored this forum for info before, during, and after the install

pelekkk

Hi! I just bought 1994 Maxima SE (first car - woohoo and it runs pretty well, I changed starter and solenoid, repaired power locks and whole bunch of minor problems. Now the thing is that stick gets really hot after more than 20 miles driven, and plastic cover right under handbrake get's hot as well (stick is some custom model, all metal - at first cold, after 20+ miles really warm at the top, hot at bottom). I fixed radiator fans (relay gone bad), the temp indicator is 1/3 to half way through usually, transmission fluid is not low. Should I change the transmission oil completely or is it suppose to be this way?
Any help appriciated
Casper
BTW: this forum rocks

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

whats the mileage on your Max? transmission fluid flushing on high mileage cars is sometimes a no-no

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

not quite sure but i'm assuming this is an automatic? anyhow... i have noticed that on mine the shifter boot area and handbrake area would be sortof warm sometimes... keep in mind that the catalytic converter is just below that bulged part of the floor where the center console is, and the inside of the catalytic converter is obscenely hot... as long as it's not like... uncomfortably hot i don't really see it as a problem.

pelekkk

Thank you for your answer. It's manual, and it's not that uncomfortable. I just wanted to make sure that it's not one of those problems that build up and blow your engine eventually.

Right now that's the least of my worries. The big problem that came up today is car stalling while idle. When I drive him, it's fine. Sometimes it used to "lose power", which means that you pressed the gas pedal and it was not accelerating. And sometimes when you had to stop and shifted downwards he was dropping to 400-500 RPM for a second. I didn't thought it's that big of a problem until today - when you leave it idle it can run for hours OR motor can drop to 300-400 RPM and turns off. Can anyone help? I changed air filter two weeks ago.

Casper

koceja

Ok scratch that. I re-checked voltage with the car off, at the contacts for each injector plug. All read 12v from the hot wires (including #2). If I wanted to run a new ground back to the ecu, can I just unplug the ECU harness, snip the matching wire, and solder in the new? Or is there something in between?

BTW, it's the SOHC. Each injectors wire are red and blue, with unique-colored stripes, different across the 3. And yes I just re-ohm'd #2 again and got 12.3

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

and you measured the resistance thru the harness? or did you take the intake off and measure it directly? if you measured it through the harness then that must be good, so i guess you would be looking at a ground issue UNLESS by some weird chance the injector is totally clogged, which is very rare compared to resistance-type failures. this is one time a noid light would come in handy... so you could put it on the engine harness (front hot wire, and #2 ground wire) to see if it's grounding or not, because multimeters only update 1x per second.

but if you want to just run 1 new wire for that, i would say to find it on the ECU harness and i would expect that first bit by the ECU to be fine, and to just tap the wire there (cut the original somewhere so you are only using 1 wire strand) and run it out to the plug that plugs into the front injector subharness... you can drill a small hole in the firewall or w/e for that wire, if you can't just stuff it through one of the other grommets.

koceja

I measured the injector directly. I am going to recheck at the harness (the plug on the passenger side of the motor right?). Thanks for all your help too!

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

er.. the plug for the front injector subharness is on the driver side of the engine near where the EGR valve is.. there's a 2x2 plug (injectors) and a 2x3 plug (iacv) right around that area... i think it comes out from under where the vac hardlines and stuff are.

koceja

Ok thanks for correcting me on the harness. I have no idea what the other one was, but only one i could match up to based on pictures.

Testing the CORRECT harness, the even bank of injectors ohm between 12.3 and like 12.7, so that sub harness is fine. I disconnect the ECU harness, and test between it (pinout 110 according to the fsm if i read it correctly) and the other end of the injector harness, and get 00.5 on my voltmeter (Ohm setting on the 200 setting). What's that telling me? I appreciate your help a lot!