I have a 1989 nissan maxima. It sat for 7 years, since ive had it i put on, new spark plugs, spark plug wires, K&N filter, Camshaft position sensor/Distributer, clutch, water pump, rear main seal, timing belt, tires, interior work, and exhaust. nothing major, just regular fix ups. When i got it after sitting, it appeared only the spark plug wires were chewed on by mice. Im having a very big problem with it tho. It starts fine, and the computer tells me code #55, meaning nothings wrong. When i drove it it missed and spit and had very little power, but sounded nice under 2000RPM. So i looked at it, I found out my injector was spraying in way to much fuel, i could smell it and that cylinder, plus 2 others were not firing. all 3 back cylinders run fine, but none of the front run at all. the far left front cylinder, i think #2, Was spraying way to much fuel, so i replaced the computer, later to find out it dident fix it, and plus my other 2 front cylinders, i think #s 4 and 6, werent getting enough fuel. i tested them, the far left front injector plug read like 13v, the other 2 read around 2.57v. all 3 back ones read between 11 and 12v. but the front 3 stay the same they dont change ever, to open and close. im getting spark, air, and fuel, i checked, throttle position sensor, grounds, emission control sensor, plugs, compression, intake, and they all turned out good. Ive seen on forums people have this same probllem, ive been trying to figure this out for a few months now, could you please help me or just tell me what i could do or need to do to fix this? Thank you very much, Robert Zeromski.

Heyy wats up to everyone I'm new to the forum...I just wanted to know if someone could help me I'm looking for a manual transmission for my 94 max vg30.. Does anyone have any sugesstions on where I should look I can't find any

you're doing a 5spd swap? Cuz no 94 VG maxima came with a manual, as the only 92-94 model with a VG was the base GXE which only came automatic.. only the SE model (VG30E 89-91, VE30DE 92-94) had 5spd trannies. And it does matter which engine the tranny came off of, because the axles/hubs/differential/gearing are different.

Oh really? Where can I buy the digital gauge cluster?

junk yard, parts cars, ebay (I picked mine up at the yard for about $50, with the HUD and it's pre-cut dash).

Not exactly, I have the black e36 headlights to match. Go onto cardomain and look at 89-94 Max's and you'll see what im talking about. They're not smoked, and they look way better than the clear corner lights. All you need is a nice blue bulb. Check them out, you may like them.

junkyards, i would sell you mine for what i bought it for from the junkyard but i'm gonna keep it just incase i ever want to swap

Going to get tint either tomorrow or tuesday, On a white 89 maxima. Thinking 20%, any suggestions on going darker or lighter?

looking to replace my oxygen sensor soon, what kind do u guys suggest?
link me if u can, thanks

depends, if youre in the country you could go even 5% because of minimal cops/them not caring, in the city you will get pulled over for it. here cops always pull people over for small stuff if their windows tinted, and tinted windows let them search for drugs as well.

ima slightly disagree with 5%. I have it, it sucks when it's cold, and I am looking for street signs (don't like needing to roll down windows). I have never been pulled over for it (they don't usually, here), but they can. once I have funds to replace the front and rear windshields (front is cracked, rear has bad defog lines), i will be removing and going lighter.

10% or lighter, imo.
20% is almost ideal, provides privacy and shade, while not being too dark for night, or illegal in most areas.

i want to tint mine bad but people i know have gotten pulled over for not signaling and their windows are tinted, when i sometimes dont signal and cops have seen me do it and one time i turned right at a intersection on a red light without stopping/slowing down (late night, no traffic though) and a cop was right behind me and he didnt care, a untinted 4dr car looks innocent i guess lol.

whats going to happen is either when i turbo my 3rd gen i take the bus in the meantime and keep the Max as a DD or buy a 240sx/Silvia/Skyline GTS-T or cheap GTR/240z and use it in the meantime/as a DD and make the Max a weekend/nighttime car. if i go that route i probably will go 10% on the Max

im just so tempted though because even high end garages are doing a winter special with all 4 windows for $150 or all 5 for $175

I believe NTK is the OEM brand used in these cars. I ordered my last one from internetautomart, but not sure if AutoZone, CSK/O'Reily has them.

thanks man ill check it out

Hey guys, my 91 maxima se is missing a few exhaust manifold studs. I know this will be a pain in the a$$ to fix but i'm replacing the motor mounts anyway so i'll get to the studs at the same time. i want to put a set of headers on to replace the stock ones. i found a set of pacesetter headers for around $200. my question is, will these headers mount up to my stock y-pipe? otherwise would i be better off re-using my stock headers and just getting a warpspeed y-pipe to increase power?

I would stay away from pacesetter headers, they don't fit right. Go with stock manifolds with the wardspeed y-pipe.

i've heard the same else where. my manifold studs have been broken for a long time. this may have resulted in some warpage of the header itself. anyone got a decent set of stock headers for sale for a 91 maxima??? now, i can get the warpspeed y pipe for $199 or i can get the y-pipe/high flow cat combo for $285. what is the better deal? can i just use my stock cat?

you mean stock manifolds? these aren't performance cars; they dont' come stock with headers. I have an extra set of stock manifolds but they are still on my car so it would be a while before i could pull them..

it'll be a week or two before i start this project. what do you want for em? i'm also looking for both driver and passenger side tail light lenses, if you're interested in selling them.

i'm not talking weeks.. more like early april.

hey guys, question for you, where can i get the conversion lines for the z32 calipers? thx! putting them on the front of my 92 se

I've swapped out my injectors(they are firing), TPS, o2 sensor, MAF, CTS, and I've done a complete tune-up(cap,rotor,wires,plugs, etc). I'm completely lost. I thought for sure that it would be the MAF.

Car bucks and chugs while cold. Once it warms up good, no problem whatsoever. I can pull my coolant temperature sensor and it'll run better while cold(chugs a little, but no bucking). Smells like it's running rich and my gas mileage is horrible. On top of all this, I got laid off Thursday. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hello,
I've been having electrical problems with my 93 SE auto for a while now. Long story short, when you run the car for 20-30 minutes it starts to buck and dies. It won't restart, even though the starter does crank the motor. If you let it stand for around 10 minutes or so and try again then it starts right up like nothing happened.

This problem is somewhat dependent on ambient temperature where the hotter it is the more likely the car is gonna die. So i thought i'd start with the relays and when i took off BOTH the Engine Cont. AND the Ign/Theft relay on the right side of the battery and cranked the car it started right up! Not only that, the car ran like nothing was wrong but the problem did not go away either!

Does anyone have any idea what the hell's going on? This problem's annoying to the point where i just wanna junk the car! (flame suit on)

Contact Matt93SE on here
have you checked your coolant level and bled the system lately?

No, but I'm not sure how to bleed the coolant system.

It wouldn't have crossed my mind to check that. I will do it ASAP if someone could give me a tip on how to bleed it(or if I find it via search first).

Thanks!

park car facing as seeply uphill as you possibly can, let car cool down, remove radiator cap, fill radiator if needed, turn car on, turn the climate control to FULL hot and let it run (important) let it run until bubbles go away. you can squeeze the radiator hoses while it's running to help it burp the bubbles out.

2 things i need help with

1. my shifter does not move unless i use the over ride button on the bottom and the click sound from when i stepped on the brake to use the shifter is gone. (no its not the shifter lock fuse and all my brake bulbs all working)

2. when i going like 50 and have to stop suddenly stop like if the light catches me i hear a sound when i step on the brakes like a cable being stretched or sumthin its a weird sound.

could be the shiftlock control unit. it's located in the passenger side kick panel and is green.

thats the one by the passenger door?
what do i do when i find it?

well leave it plugged in... have someone step on the brake pedal with the key in the ON position (car doesn't actually have to be running) and stick your head down next to the box and listen to find out if the green box clicks when the pedal is depressed. if it does click, then the problem is after it. if it doesn't click then the problem is either before it, or is it.

the clicking inside that box is way quieter than the clicking of the shifter solenoid itself so you might not hear it from the driver's seat even if it is working. after my 5spd swap i left mine in so i could audibly hear when my brakelights were coming on since i could no longer look at the reflection from my rear window b/c i had converted from a rear-window brakelight to spoiler brakelight.

this happend months ago 1 time and then it started working again.
would u happen to know the 2nd thing i posted? loose brake lines?

While it's still fresh on my mind:

Bled the coolant system tonight. Followed your instructions and it took about 20 minutes or more before I stopped seeing bubbles. My heat is much hotter, but my problems did not go away.

Let me see if I can more accurately describe what my car is doing: Chugs and burps when cold. It hesitates to the point of seeming like I've let off the gas and when I actually let off the pedal it seems to start responding again. Sometimes my throttle will jump up without me changing the pedal position(then it drops back down). Sometimes it seems to drop into a lower gear. It was hesitating like I described even after it warmed up this time. For some reason, I still think this is TPS related.

Do you have a VE or VG motor in yours?
I know on a VE I can read the sensor data with my scanner which would be able to tell me how the sensors are working.
I'm not sure if I can pull the same data from a VG.

mine went in and out too, probably just needed to be resoldered. but i swapped the whole box and that fixed it permanently. but it could be other things as well, like the solenoid underneath the shifter.

um.. what type of rear brakes do you have? and how fresh are all the pads/shoes (if applicable) and do you use duracrap or better stuff like Hawk?

VG. further up he mentioned cap/wires/rotor

n00bery here but i searched and just found threads with timing in them, how often should the VG timing belt be replaced? previous owner of mine did it in 2004 at about 380,000km IIRC and its at almost 420,000km now

okay i am really not new here...been here for almost a year....however,i am having a problem making a post.....every time i email the activation codes to my email address...i never get the email (you know...via the FAQ link)....and it is not in my SPAM folder either...i have been trying for a little while now (tried different email accounts) and I just don't know how to get this going....i would really appreciate it if anyone has any suggestions.....thanks......

contact Danny (admin)

square tooth 60k miles / 95k kilometers (can probably round to 100)
round tooth 100k miles / 160k kilometers

im good for a while then lol.

what sucks is VG are interference motors right? so if your timing belt blows, the whole engine is toast?