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Old 03-21-2010, 11:44 AM
  #5001  
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Originally Posted by BenStoked
sounds like a couple of burnt syncros.
transmission rebuild time!!
(my time is coming soon, I can feel it )
Does the input shaft bearing have anything to do with these going out? It's pretty loud, and got considerably louder the last few days before I lost 1st and 2nd.
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Old 03-21-2010, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 7mJoe
Does the input shaft bearing have anything to do with these going out? It's pretty loud, and got considerably louder the last few days before I lost 1st and 2nd.
most likely, yes. mine has been noisy for a while now (slight whine in gear).
(note: by burnt, I mean worn; they really don't catch fire, or some **** (or will it?))

mine occasionally doesn't like going into 1st, but popping the clutch (out, and back in, while in neutral) once or twice, and it slides in.
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Old 03-21-2010, 06:53 PM
  #5003  
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Anyone have a tutorial or link to rewire the fogs to come on independently. or on wiring the parking lights to come on when i turn the key ? I searched a bit and didn't find much about it. Thanks.
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Old 03-21-2010, 07:27 PM
  #5004  
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This sucks. Fortunately I have another manual transmission sitting in the garage, but unfortunately it has a hole in the bell housing! What to do what too do!
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Old 03-21-2010, 08:14 PM
  #5005  
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Originally Posted by augnon
The rpms and power drops on my car below 25 MPH and happens at approximately 15MPH during acceleration worse when stopped completly..Sometimes it happens some times it doesn't.This is an automatic.I am leaning towards TPS or Fuel regulator maybe even computer.I've

???
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Old 03-23-2010, 03:35 PM
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'92 possibly need new transaxle?

well my life sucks right now, today i decieded to go fishing down at the lake. well i showed up seen how the fish were biting and went home to go get some chairs to come back, i back outta my spot just fine and go home load up my stuff and go to head back. well reverse all of a sudden now isnt working period. my tranny has been doing sum extremely minor slipping but that has just started maybe 3 weeks ago... so now i need help i dont know wat to do. is it just that i finally blew the tranny even tho there was almost no slipping or is somethign else going on?
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Old 03-23-2010, 03:40 PM
  #5007  
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Originally Posted by thekibler
well my life sucks right now, today i decieded to go fishing down at the lake. well i showed up seen how the fish were biting and went home to go get some chairs to come back, i back outta my spot just fine and go home load up my stuff and go to head back. well reverse all of a sudden now isnt working period. my tranny has been doing sum extremely minor slipping but that has just started maybe 3 weeks ago... so now i need help i dont know wat to do. is it just that i finally blew the tranny even tho there was almost no slipping or is somethign else going on?
http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl761g.htm
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Old 03-23-2010, 05:05 PM
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dude thank you... i dunno wat happened i heard a clunk, did ur test thing again , put in reverse an it went into gear and worked
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Old 03-23-2010, 09:15 PM
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personal cant remember, what was everyones opinion on Ksport springs for 3rd gens again? looking to buy springs in a couple of weeks to get out of 4x4 mode

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/89-90...item53dd38e3e0
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Old 03-24-2010, 10:47 PM
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Hey everyone. I've been doing a lot of reading/searching here but this is my first post.

I have been reading about how the VE is sensitive to oils. I put a mobil-1 filter with synthetic oil in her, and it seems to like it. But I was curious - Does the VE like/dislike oil additives such as Lucas Oil full synthetic stabilizer? I've always loved lucas products in my previous cars, but I don't want to mess up this maxima in any way.

Thanks in advance
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Old 03-24-2010, 10:52 PM
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eh, im not really for additives. quite a few people here actually are against oil/gas additives since the product itself usually already has enough good stuff in it
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Old 03-25-2010, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by chrome91
personal cant remember, what was everyones opinion on Ksport springs for 3rd gens again? looking to buy springs in a couple of weeks to get out of 4x4 mode

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/89-90...item53dd38e3e0
Fits:

89-94 Nissan Maxima A31


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Old 03-25-2010, 09:15 AM
  #5013  
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Originally Posted by BenStoked
sounds like a couple of burnt syncros.
transmission rebuild time!!
(my time is coming soon, I can feel it )
could also be a check ball issue. each "gate" has its own check ball. but i think if his ISB is messed up that could cause it to not want to go into certain gears depending how much the shaft is deflecting.
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Old 03-25-2010, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
could also be a check ball issue. each "gate" has its own check ball. but i think if his ISB is messed up that could cause it to not want to go into certain gears depending how much the shaft is deflecting.
regardless, it's a rebuild.
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Old 03-25-2010, 12:45 PM
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Any other input on oil additives?
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Old 03-25-2010, 01:55 PM
  #5016  
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Hey guys, i own a 1990 maxima, love the car to death, but my idle speed is kinda high, does anyone know how to reduce idle speed on it? Thanks!
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Old 03-25-2010, 02:48 PM
  #5017  
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Originally Posted by nickdoof
Any other input on oil additives?
such as...?
IMO, snake oil. Plus, a good oil has all of the correct additives, already; adding more makes the oil less concentrated (< I know that isn't the right word. it's almost 5, time to go home).
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Old 03-25-2010, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Andrew P
Hey guys, i own a 1990 maxima, love the car to death, but my idle speed is kinda high, does anyone know how to reduce idle speed on it? Thanks!
adjust idle or IIRC clean the MAF
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Old 03-25-2010, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Andrew P
Hey guys, i own a 1990 maxima, love the car to death, but my idle speed is kinda high, does anyone know how to reduce idle speed on it? Thanks!
Your TPS may be out of adjustment also.. sounds more like a MAF issue to me though.
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Old 03-26-2010, 05:09 PM
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I have a question...

Randomly my Maxima will not start, no click from the starter or anything. Unless I pull out a fuse labeled ''power bat'' I believe. It powers the automatic antenna, door lights, and my radio. If I pull this fuse I hear a click from somewhere close to the fuse box(possibly one of the relays) and the maxi will start just fine.

Is it a short.. or a bad fuse? I know this would be really hard to diagnose. But I know its not the start relay, interchanged with a good one.
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Old 03-27-2010, 02:02 AM
  #5021  
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Originally Posted by augnon
???
The rpms and power drops on my car below 25 MPH and happens at approximately 15MPH during acceleration worse when stopped completely..Sometimes it happens some times it doesn't.This is an automatic.

I hear a chugging noise when i accelerate.The car sounds like a diesel.the scent of gas somewhat sweet is also present.This is my 3rd bump to my post, need help.
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Old 03-27-2010, 08:20 AM
  #5022  
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Originally Posted by augnon
The rpms and power drops on my car below 25 MPH and happens at approximately 15MPH during acceleration worse when stopped completely..Sometimes it happens some times it doesn't.This is an automatic.

I hear a chugging noise when i accelerate.The car sounds like a diesel.the scent of gas somewhat sweet is also present.This is my 3rd bump to my post, need help.
did you check for codes yet? most of the time 3rd gens will not light up the check engine light even if there is a code. and also check all your electrical connectors for corrosion, clean them where appropriate, and use dielectric grease to keep them from corroding again.
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Old 03-27-2010, 11:09 AM
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i still cant find an answer to why i cant move my shifter from park with out using the override button.

2nd i have a little radiator leak and i bought a "BARS LEAK STOP WITH PELLETS" i kno it sounds dumb but after reading the directions i dont know what the hell to do -__-
i need to stop the leak till i buy my new one which wont be intill 2 weeks from now.
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Old 03-27-2010, 03:27 PM
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^^^^^^^
There is a switch behind your break pedal that makes sure you are pressing the break while shifting. Maybe this is bad? Also I've heard of a 'PRNDL switch' I believe it's called in your shifter assembly that can go bad.
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Old 03-27-2010, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by nickdoof
^^^^^^^
There is a switch behind your break pedal that makes sure you are pressing the break while shifting. Maybe this is bad? Also I've heard of a 'PRNDL switch' I believe it's called in your shifter assembly that can go bad.
didnt know there was a switch there ill check tomorrow. thanks

anyone else have any suggestions
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Old 03-27-2010, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by nyc_ink
didnt know there was a switch there ill check tomorrow. thanks

anyone else have any suggestions
no, the switch can't be the problem as long as the brake lights work properly. the control box uses the signal from the brake light wire to control the solenoid.

speaking of the control box, did you ever listen for it clicking when the brake pedal is pushed with the key in ON? honestly that alone is the one thing you should be looking at more than anything else. there's actually a procedure in the FSM that will tell you step-by-step wire-by-wire what to look for instead of following random suggestions from people with "newbie - just registered" status that doesn't know how to spell "brake" properly and doesn't know the actual location of the "PRND2L sensor" which is actually attached to the transmission, not the shifter. unless you don't actually want the problem fixed

Last edited by CapedCadaver; 03-27-2010 at 06:53 PM.
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Old 03-27-2010, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
no, the switch can't be the problem as long as the brake lights work properly. the control box uses the signal from the brake light wire to control the solenoid.

speaking of the control box, did you ever listen for it clicking when the brake pedal is pushed with the key in ON? honestly that alone is the one thing you should be looking at more than anything else. there's actually a procedure in the FSM that will tell you step-by-step wire-by-wire what to look for instead of following random suggestions from people with "newbie - just registered" status that doesn't know how to spell "brake" properly and doesn't know the actual location of the "PRND2L sensor" which is actually attached to the transmission, not the shifter. unless you don't actually want the problem fixed
lmao dude its annoying having to use the override button every single time.
im trying to fix this for real and no there is no click when i turn the car on.
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Old 03-27-2010, 08:56 PM
  #5028  
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Originally Posted by nyc_ink
lmao dude its annoying having to use the override button every single time.
im trying to fix this for real and no there is no click when i turn the car on.
if the box isn't clicking when you step on the brake pedal then it's either dead or the signal from the brakelights isn't getting there.

keep in mind there are 2 things that are supposed to click when you step on the brakes in park.. both the solenoid underneath the shifter and the green box. it's just that when the one on the shifter works, it's so much louder than the one inside the green box that you will only hear the one unless your ear is right down there next to the green box.
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Old 03-28-2010, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
if the box isn't clicking when you step on the brake pedal then it's either dead or the signal from the brakelights isn't getting there.

keep in mind there are 2 things that are supposed to click when you step on the brakes in park.. both the solenoid underneath the shifter and the green box. it's just that when the one on the shifter works, it's so much louder than the one inside the green box that you will only hear the one unless your ear is right down there next to the green box.

yea i dont hear the click @ all
so how do i fix this
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Old 03-28-2010, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
no, the switch can't be the problem as long as the brake lights work properly. the control box uses the signal from the brake light wire to control the solenoid.

speaking of the control box, did you ever listen for it clicking when the brake pedal is pushed with the key in ON? honestly that alone is the one thing you should be looking at more than anything else. there's actually a procedure in the FSM that will tell you step-by-step wire-by-wire what to look for instead of following random suggestions from people with "newbie - just registered" status that doesn't know how to spell "brake" properly and doesn't know the actual location of the "PRND2L sensor" which is actually attached to the transmission, not the shifter. unless you don't actually want the problem fixed
Hey, how about you go **** yourself. I was just trying to help. No one has even attempted to answer my questions. And by the way, the shifter is also attached to the transmission. And break/brake, sorry I just got off work you grammar ****.
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Old 03-28-2010, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by nickdoof
Hey, how about you go **** yourself. I was just trying to help. No one has even attempted to answer my questions. And by the way, the shifter is also attached to the transmission. And break/brake, sorry I just got off work you grammar ****.
Step back there big boy, we don't need any of that ish in here..
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Old 03-28-2010, 04:14 PM
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Well i'm tired of reading caped's posts constantly putting people down, and talking trash without any regard for the person who he does not know at all.

He is right the guy shouldn't listen to me, and I may have wasted his time, for that i'm sorry. BUT he should learn respect, and if he is going to insult me and disrespect me like that you can bet that I will not lay down and take it.

I guess he can make up for low self esteem by bashing people on the internet, but if he walked around the 'real world' talking to people like that he would end up in the hospital

Last edited by nickdoof; 03-28-2010 at 04:16 PM.
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Old 03-28-2010, 04:15 PM
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Also:

"...the switch can't be the problem as long as the brake lights work properly. the control box uses the signal from the brake light wire to control the solenoid.

speaking of the control box, did you ever listen for it clicking when the brake pedal is pushed with the key in ON?"

Looks like my comment helped lead you in the right direction anyways.
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Old 03-28-2010, 04:21 PM
  #5034  
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Originally Posted by nickdoof
Well i'm tired of reading caped's posts constantly putting people down, talking trash without any regard for the person who he does not know at all.

He is right, the guy shouldn't listen to me and I may have wasted his time, for that i'm sorry. BUT he should learn respect, and if he is going to insult me and disrespect me like that you can bet that I will not lay down and take it.

I guess he can make up for low self esteem by bashing people on the internet, but if he walked around the 'real world' talking to people like that he would end up in the hospital
I haven't been in here in a while, so I've not seen this pattern from him, i will research this and take care of it if indeed the problem exists..

In the mean time, if you see bad from him or anyone else, use report post button located under the username of the poster in question..
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Old 03-28-2010, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by nickdoof
Hey, how about you go **** yourself. I was just trying to help. No one has even attempted to answer my questions. And by the way, the shifter is also attached to the transmission. And break/brake, sorry I just got off work you grammar ****.
sorry the shifter is attached to the body of the car. the switch is attached directly to the transmission. you can remove the shifter completely from the car (which i've done, while trying to cure my own shift-lock problem back in the day) and the PRND2L switch stays put. me 1, you 0. and your questions didn't catch my attention, therefore, there's about a 1% chance they're worth answering.
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Old 03-28-2010, 06:19 PM
  #5036  
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Originally Posted by nickdoof
Also:

"...the switch can't be the problem as long as the brake lights work properly. the control box uses the signal from the brake light wire to control the solenoid.

speaking of the control box, did you ever listen for it clicking when the brake pedal is pushed with the key in ON?"

Looks like my comment helped lead you in the right direction anyways.
actually i asked him that 3 weeks ago. he just never got back to me about it so you didn't help me with anything. well.. you did, kindof. you reminded me that he still hadn't gotten back to me about the shiftlock control box, at least not that I had seen yet.

Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
could be the shiftlock control unit. it's located in the passenger side kick panel and is green.
Originally Posted by nyc_ink
thats the one by the passenger door?
what do i do when i find it?
Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
well leave it plugged in... have someone step on the brake pedal with the key in the ON position (car doesn't actually have to be running) and stick your head down next to the box and listen to find out if the green box clicks when the pedal is depressed. if it does click, then the problem is after it. if it doesn't click then the problem is either before it, or is it.

the clicking inside that box is way quieter than the clicking of the shifter solenoid itself so you might not hear it from the driver's seat even if it is working. after my 5spd swap i left mine in so i could audibly hear when my brakelights were coming on since i could no longer look at the reflection from my rear window b/c i had converted from a rear-window brakelight to spoiler brakelight.
Originally Posted by nyc_ink
this happend months ago 1 time and then it started working again.
would u happen to know the 2nd thing i posted? loose brake lines?
Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
mine went in and out too, probably just needed to be resoldered. but i swapped the whole box and that fixed it permanently. but it could be other things as well, like the solenoid underneath the shifter.

um.. what type of rear brakes do you have? and how fresh are all the pads/shoes (if applicable) and do you use duracrap or better stuff like Hawk?

Last edited by CapedCadaver; 03-28-2010 at 06:36 PM. Reason: typo :noes:
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Old 03-28-2010, 06:30 PM
  #5037  
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Originally Posted by nickdoof
Well i'm tired of reading caped's posts constantly putting people down, and talking trash without any regard for the person who he does not know at all.

He is right the guy shouldn't listen to me, and I may have wasted his time, for that i'm sorry. BUT he should learn respect, and if he is going to insult me and disrespect me like that you can bet that I will not lay down and take it.

I guess he can make up for low self esteem by bashing people on the internet, but if he walked around the 'real world' talking to people like that he would end up in the hospital
you should sit back and learn about the car before making suggestions that will lead other inexperienced members on a wild goosechase because you don't actually know the answer. this is the thread for n00bs to ask questions, not take random stabs at answering people's questions knowing enough about the car to make a valid suggestion. on a different make/model of car, your suggestion might have solved the problem depending how that system was wired up from the factory. but not on a 3rd gen maxima.

if you want to help people, learn first, help later. the FSM is free to download from http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/1994/

as far as me being "mean".. keep in mind you've been here a week or two, i've been here for 3+ years. i've already seen every stupid question, heard every stupid suggestion, read every "can i do _____ to my car?" thread, etc etc. some people sugar coat it, I don't. if i see a problem, i make it blutly apparent because while you might be pissed off, at least NYC_INK isn't wasting his time looking at something that's irrelevant.

Think of me as the Dr House of the 3rd gen forum. ie don't take it personal.

Last edited by CapedCadaver; 03-28-2010 at 06:45 PM.
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Old 03-28-2010, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
you should sit back and learn about the car before making suggestions that will lead other inexperienced members on a wild goosechase because you don't actually know the answer. this is the thread for n00bs to ask questions, not take random stabs at answering people's questions knowing enough about the car to make a valid suggestion. on a different make/model of car, your suggestion might have solved the problem depending how that system was wired up from the factory. but not on a 3rd gen maxima.

if you want to help people, learn first, help later. the FSM is free to download from http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/1994/

as far as me being "mean".. keep in mind you've been here a week or two, i've been here for 3+ years. i've already seen every stupid question, heard every stupid suggestion, read every "can i do _____ to my car?" thread, etc etc. some people sugar coat it, I don't. if i see a problem, i make it blutly apparent because while you might be pissed off, at least NYC_INK isn't wasting his time looking at something that's irrelevant.

Think of me as the Dr House of the 3rd gen forum. ie don't take it personal.


ok, "Dr. house" lets keep the dry insults to a minimum...k
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Old 03-28-2010, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by nyc_ink
yea i dont hear the click @ all
so how do i fix this
easy way is to swap the green box with a working one without any further testing. harder way is to use the FSM procedure starting on page AT-164 here http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/1994/at.pdf but will yield more conclusive results.
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Old 03-28-2010, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Greeny
ok, "Dr. house" lets keep the dry insults to a minimum...k
you take away all my fun
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