BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

since I have a vg, I really dont pay much attention to ve stuff.
however, I believe the ve has one thing in common with most other vehicles: the exhaust manifold can be a weak point in making power. there is no company, other than maybe Pacesetter (see caped's earlier post), who makes headers for any 3rd gen.
most ve owners ignore the manifolds, and replace the y-pipe (again, see caped's post), and they are happy with the results.
more power can be made by making an equal length header/y-pipe combo, but considering most people here do not have the equipment/experience to DIY, or have the money to pay someone else to do it properly for them, so it is rarely done.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

i can't answer the tire question, since there are a few variables, and i just woke up, so the facts aren't coming to my memory. 17's will fit fine, but depending on things like width, offset, and tire size.
I do remember lug pattern is 5x114.5 (same as 5 lug Mustang)

and just a heads up, most people who go with that setup (usually Sprint springs) complain a little about having a "bouncy" ride.


since I am still not awake, I wanted to ask a question to everyone, in general.
Has anyone ever used Zenn springs?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ZENN-...Q5fAccessories
at $50 for a set, it makes me ....

killaklownspaintball

im tired of messing around trying to get my maxima to start so its up for sale make an offer and we will talk .


Nissan Maxima 1992 picture is on my profile

New brake caliper
New fuel pump
Two new fuel injectors
Brand new battery
New spark plugs
Fresh oil change
Pioneer cd player
Original Bose speakers
Keypads on doors work
Nice rims(chrome)
power ant works
window visors
sunroof works
a/c work
new back brakes
tires are good

problems with car

Obviously won't start

Needs timing belt (never been changed had not caused problems before
but hasn't been changed)

power window for driver side (you have to play with the switch a little to make it work

abs light turns on once you start driving

CLEAN TITLE (NJ) CAR LOOKS NICE

email me at killaklownspaintball@yahoo.com


Use to love driving it just don't have time to fix it

For more info email me

guys if you have this same car you can get so much stuff out of this car it really is nice and I tried to fix it but i can't waste more time or money on trying to find out whats wrong with it.

bklein

I have a 94 Maxima GXE (H vin) apart for injector replacement. The car was running great until one injector failed in open resistance state. The other injectors measure 11.3,12,14,16.2,and 20.5 ohms. As the car was running fine should I really spend the >$100 each to replace the >14 ohm injectors? I have to get the smog cert this month end - will the high resistance cause issues? The car is only driven sparsely (to local dog park to walk the dog) and less than 1 mile each direction.

Lastly I see the Bosch part highly recommended but if say it is looking like 3 should be replaced on principle it makes it more worth chancing a refurbd set for $140.... but it is not clear they will be a good match for my yellow dot parts. Green and yellow supposedly have different characteristics so how can parts places sell one model to satisfy both?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

here are no aftermarket manifolds or headers for the VE. the VE was only ever used on the maxima, only from 92-94, and only on the SE models (so, 25% of the 92-94, so abot 12% of all 3rd gens). There's hardly any aftermarket stuff for the VE, because nobody wants to make parts for a very very rare engine on a car that isn't that popular for modding anyways.

The issue with the headers on the VG is the fact that only one company makes them, and they don't fit.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

5/114.3 and you do not want a 2" drop. when you move the wheel up (relative to the body) that much, the control arm's angle will make you gain positive camber as the suspension compresses (not to mention a suicidal-thought-inducing ride) which will cause your handling to suck incredibly. the control arm's angle on stock height is such that as you compress the suspension, the botom of the tire moves away from the car a tiny bit, giving you negative camber, which helps you through a corner. after the control arm starts pointing up, the further up it moves, it pulls the bottom of the tire IN, which is positive camber.

If you want less wheel gap, get a 1.2" drop and run over-size tires like 225/50/17 or something.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

as i stated earlier, refurbed injectors for the 3rd gen maxima are hand-refurbished by Satan, in a special plant in the 7th layer of Hell. In otherwords, eat your own arm for sustinence before getting reman injectors on a 3rd gen maxima.

What year/trim do you have? 89-92GXE and 89-91SE have the 'old style' rectangle clip injectors, and the 92-94SE (aka "VE") and 93-94GXE have the 'new style' oval-ish connector. You'd be best off replacing the >14ohm injectors with some that another member on here has for sale from a parts car they have, if you can't afford the Bosch injectors. And don't buy the "Python" injectors either; they're actually worse than remans.

makowski

iTrader: (1)

http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/pts/1064294704.html so im thinking those with the 1.5 drop? any comments

makowski

iTrader: (1)

i didnt read the bent part till now....how much does a little "bent" rim effect a car? alot

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

1.5 is still gonna be harsher than the 1.2, but the camber thing won't be AS big of a deal. but with any drop you always want to get the car aligned (by a shop that actually gives a crap about their customers and their cars, not some ghey place like pepboys that won't even give you a spec-sheet after they're done) because dropping the car will, in itself, affect your camber.

as for the bent rim, if it's local to you, ask the seller if you can take the wheel to a wheel repair shop for them to look at it and see if they can repair it or not. I got a set of 17x7's with one bent for $75, got the bent one fixed for another $75 so i had a great set of wheels for $150. Too bad they stuck out too far from having too little offset (22mm is too low for a 7" wheel w/o stretching the tires and/or rolling the fender). so i'll just hold onto them for when i get around to getting a Z31 as my 'spare car' Anyhow, if they can't fix the bend, then out what type of wheel they are and buy one new one and talk the price down on the good 3, OR, just pass on the offer. If you have a bent wheel you can't put it up front, thus you can't rotate your tires, thus, not good. (but if they can't fix the bend at a shop, odds are it'll vibrate even in the rear)

Thats another thing... see if you can get the offset info from the person. Or have them let you test-fit a front AND rear on your car and drive around the block to make sure they don't rub. 28-35mm should work fine. any more, and you might need a spacer to keep it from rubbing the struts in the rear. any less and you might need to roll your fenders. (these figures are approximated.)

makowski

iTrader: (1)

http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/pts/1051756067.html for example can you buy "mustang" rims and they will directly fit on my car? 92 maxima

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

they will bolt on. you may want to double check clearances though.

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

do not buy any random rims and expect them to fit or feel comfortable while driving..... 24" rims look cool but they will severely effect your driving especially in a maxima..... those 18" are nice but 16 1/2" rims are perfect for the car 17" or 16" is fine any bigger or smaller you will start to notice a difference.... you can try eibach springs and tokico struts for a decent 1.2" drop...and the mustang rims you posted are 245/45/R17 that might cause problems as well....id just stick to the sizes caped layed out for you

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

he never indicated he wanted stupidly large >19" rims.. so i don't think he's gonna try and use 24" rims. and no they don't look cool anyways. they look disgusting (even on trucks) 99.9% of the time. and 100% of production cars will have their handling 'adversely affected' by 24's, not just maximas; it's eleventy billion pounds of unsprung weight and it raises the car's center of gravity. put a 350z on 24's and i can probably beat him through a corner with my maxima just cuz of his wheels.

anyhow where do you find 16.5"? i have NEVER seen them anywhere, not in any ad papers, not online, nothing. Are you in canada? i often see the warning about 1x.5" wheels printed on tires.. but have never seen a 1x.6" tire or wheel anywhere (only 22.5" on big rigs but that's 2x.5" )

i know a few people on here have 235mm tires, but the only person i concretely know of with those is pearl93ve, and his OD on his tires is smaller than stock (25.1" instead of 25.5") so he gains a little clearance that way.. but he is on eibachs. but a surefire way to do it, is to the drop now, on stock wheels, then once dropped, contact the ppl in the ads and test-fit the wheels in person.

i'm not tryin' to roast you, just giving a different viewpoint

makowski

iTrader: (1)

ok ill ckeck into the springs and struts, and go from there. any that you guys recommend. ok and last question after the springs and struts. i got 4 new speakers to replace my old ones. the two on the right were good and sound good. i hook up the left side and its just bzzzzzzzzzz. are the amps on that side dead, and if so how do i bypass the amps alltogether? thanks

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

ya. eibachs for the springs, and for the struts, get tokico if you are on a budget and koni if you really want satisfaction.

the big wires are amp power, cut and cap or just leave them in the plug and tuck the plug away. the small wires are signal. attach them to your aftermarket speakers.

makowski

iTrader: (1)

thanks for all the help...within a week or two ill start a new thread and show my car from start (now) and show each change and keep it going. also is the eibach pro kit lowering springs a good choice, and if possible could you send me a link to some good struts, like you said im on a bugdet, im in highschool, but i obviously wont buy crap, the tokico would be good, ive searched and i keep finding autowarehouse, parts train all these sites that look the same, if you could help me out i would appreciate it and then im pretty much all out of questions.

300zmax

they are far too expencive for what they get you. i use ebay, rockauto.com, summitracing.com

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

heres a good deal on eibach but ive personally never seen any huge discount on tokico: Eibach Springs, Camber Kits, Wheel Spacers, and every other part Eibach makes!

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

dunno how much you found the springs for, but here's a link to where you can get anything you'd need (get new strut mounts with the struts. i've seen several 3rd gens with cracked ones, and it's both unsafe, and bad for handling/ride)

http://www.internetautosupply.com/ca..._977_1489.html
http://www.internetautosupply.com/ca...7_994_995.html
http://www.internetautosupply.com/ca...7_978_979.html

makowski

iTrader: (1)

thanks...rear struts?

Phatmatt

iTrader: (9)

What would be the part# for the filler neck? I need to replace it and can't find it. thanks.

Didn't think this was worth making a new thread for.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

3rd link i posted.

makowski

iTrader: (1)

so is a 2 inch drop going to be really bad because i can only find the pro kit for a 1.2 drop and its 230+

PBfrEAk

Well see here in lies the problem...the key is no longer visible in the ignition...due to my girlfriend trying to shut off the car with a different key, jamming it in out of view.

I drilled out the bolts holding them in (they were like rivits, but threaded)...so I brought all of the tools I'll need to remove the ignition from MY car and I'll go to the hardware store tomorrow and buy new bolts to put the new ignition on.

I haven't seen any threads on here about it...so maybe I'll make like a little article showing how to do this for other members.

Thanks for all the help guys!!

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

a 2" drop waay too much for these cars..

I have a set of B&G 1.6 inch drop springs for sale.. $85+ shipping..

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

yea... i explained it in great detail

cliffs:
suicidal-thought-inducing ride
fubar'd camber curve, causing your car to slide straight instead of turning, which also results in bad tire wear if you want to get through corners at any pace faster than that of a snail.

actual post that you didn't read:
http://forums.maxima.org/6917689-post3006.html

seriously, if it weren't that bad, we wouldn't tell you that it was. we aren't gonna be jealous cuz "the new kid has his car lower than ours!" or any silly crap like that. if you want to do 2" drop, i won't stop you. I won't feel sorry for you either.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

just a heads up, you can't use cheap crap like Monroes with drop springs. the high spring rates eat them for lunch.

PMAX08

I would buy greeny's B&G springs, im running a set on tokico's and its a good ride for the drop, although i did feel like the front end was all over the place until i put on a FTSB, $85 is a great price.

PMAX08

Whats wrong with your filler neck? there was a recall on the 92 max for corroded out filler necks, mine was replaced a yr after the car was made, maybe yours never was? check with your dealer

bklein

>What year/trim do you have? 89-92GXE and 89-91SE have the 'old style' rectangle clip injectors, and the 92-94SE (aka "VE") and 93-94GXE have the 'new style' oval-ish connector. You'd be best off replacing the >14ohm injectors with some that another member on here has for sale from a parts car they have, if you can't afford the Bosch injectors. And don't buy the "Python" injectors either; they're actually worse than remans.
>
Mine is a 94 and has the oval connector but not black/blue dot or red plastic - they have tan plastic and yellow dot. The refurbs I see for sale are pink. Why wouldn't they be the tan? There was a guy from Japan on ebay selling pink ones, no dot. Maybe they all come from there, used.

Do resistances 14-20 ohms cause ECM codes? The car ran fine until the bad one totally failed and I have to do a smog check. Thanks.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

the ECM rarely codes on anything in the 3rd gen

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

they are supposed to be pink, i guess the color fades over time. my old ones are sort of a lurid peach color. but the new bosch injectors are supposed to be pink-top.

and i don't think they'll throw codes. mine didn't, as far as i know.

-ReLLiK-

iTrader: (1)

haha yeah i was wondering the same thing. Ive read all the posts about 2"+ being too low. And ive seen these on ebay as well. But for the price im thinkin that those are some really ****ty springs. Has anyone used these?

And im not trying to sound like an A-hole or anything. But, is that .4" REALLY that much of a difference?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

yep. when you're only able to move the whole suspension a couple inches anyways, .4" is big. both in terms of bottoming out on your bumpstops, and the angle of the control arm. plus the lower you drop, the more constant angle your CV joints are at so your axles will die faster (esp driverside)

-ReLLiK-

iTrader: (1)

OoOohh ok i get it thx.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

It's not the drop range, but the type of spring that is dropping the car...Below are the specs on B&G springs..

B&G lowering springs are cold wound from high tensile Chromine Silicone wire, heat treated and shot peened for longevity and finished with phosphate treatment and baked on resin powder coating for a hard corrosion resistant shell.

All B&G lowering springs are created by redesigning OE spring design, and lowering the center of gravity to improve handling and appearance. Progressive spring rates provide maximum comfort, and B&G backs them with a limited lifetime warranty so you know they're built to last.


I will bet dimes to dollars that the $50 Zenn springs on ebay are not made like b&g's..B&G has been in the spring business for 50 years, i would speculate that they know what they are doing..

Phatmatt

iTrader: (9)

I know.

See I live in Canada, and my car comes from New Hampshire.
I went to the dealership and they said they can't do anything since the VIN comes up empty because its american.

They told me that I could try crossing the border and going to a dealership over there. That I MIGHT be able to get the recall there. But it's not worth it driving there with a leaking filler neck. It'd cost me more in the end and they might even refuse me since it's now registered in canada, and the fact that most people had to fight to be able to get that recall...

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

if the filler neck is leaking you have a saftey recall just give nissan a call give them your vid number they will probably tell u the car isnt under the safety recall so after that call the nhtsa then call a lawyer and get some free rustwork done...but u might even have to sell them the car because they'll most likely say its totaled

oh by the way the "leaky filler neck" was a recall because it makes cars explode

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

i don't know if there's anything he can do being that his car was a US car that is registered in canada tho. if i were him i'd call up the closest US dealership just to ask if (or, demand that) they'd do it (maybe not mention it's registered in canada on the phone?).