nyc_ink

iTrader: (1)

lmao at wat went on while i was @ work.
thanks for the pdf CAPE
im buggin out cuz the other day it worked fine then it eff"d up again.
this sucks.

and nick, cape asked me about the click while the car is on and no click man.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

yea with electrical stuff it's not uncommon to be intermittent. sometimes solder joints get a little bit loose so sometimes they make contact, sometimes they don't. like the famous dimming-clock-that-you-smack-like-Han-Solo-to-make-it-work, etc. i just didn't care/know how to solder back when mine was messing up so i swapped the green thing and then it worked up until i did my 5spd swap.

nyc_ink

iTrader: (1)

so i can pick this green part up at a u-pull it or should i buy it new?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

i have one on my gxe that i don't need (long-since converted to manual transmission). btw i know it's been a while but did you still need those injectors? or did you find others elsewhere?

nyc_ink

iTrader: (1)

how much for it? and yea i got the 2 i needed i just need to get them in now. dey both in the front. the 1st one and the 3rd one. the rest are working good.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

so i had to drive my neighbor to a doctors appointment today, dropped him off and my door lock buttons nor the keypad work, so he manually pushed down the lock stick thingy on the passenger side. i pulled my side back up (i was still in the car, he thought he was just locking his side when it locks all sticks that are up) and he tried opening the door when he got out and it opened, so he locked it again thinking he didnt lock the door and that cycle went 3 times (confusing i know )

anyways, before that if i put my key in the lock and turned it once, the drivers side would unlock, and if i turned it again all 4 locks would pop up. now, if i turn it a second time, the other 3 locks dont pop up. whats up with that?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

try pulling all of them up manually then go from there. if that doesn't work, see if starting with all of them down manually makes a difference. i have noticed that the power locks can be finnicky at times, if they even work at all (mine stopped working after i swapped engines, of all things probably a ground that i didn't reconnect or something but even so seems kinda weird)

Nefariousrot

I have a 93' maxima with the original Bose stereo. For awhile the radio would work every now and then but start crackling out then flicker in and out. Now after about a month the radio won't work at all. Well u can tell it's working but there's no audio. What could the problem be and could someone please tell me how to fix it? Thanks so much!

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

its original to the car, from 17 years ago. electrical connections (solder joints) break, and over time cause sporadic to non-existent audio.
two options: go aftermarket, or learn how to find and fix broken solder joints.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

i tried everything, i cant get them to do the multi-unlock still. kinda want to get shaved door handles anyways and if i do i guess the key problem is kinda gone lol

alex.wlkr

Caped Cadaver thanks for feedback on heater core replacement. I am proud to say that even with O.C.D. it only took 20-24 hours to finish replacement. Paint marks match and everything!! Thanks

alex.wlkr

Thanks to everyone else!!

JETMAX

I've replaced the ignition switch, fuel pump relay and now the fuel pump. The fuel pump will not come on all the time, but when it does the car starts fine. I have to keep turning the key 10-15 times before I hear the fuel pump come on. The car died on me in the middle of the street the other morning after it finally started.

Any help would be appreciated.

'92 GXE

jncojr

Why can't I access the Parts Guide anymore?! The first time I logged in I was able to, but I can't now! I get that 403 Forbidden "You do not have access to this server." error message.

jncojr

Mabye one of the parts was not installed correctly or one is defective. It may also be the fuel line (that hose thing). I do not really know much about cars, but joined Maxima.org in hope of learning some mechanics. Computers is more my thing, but I'm tired of running to my everyone everytime my car makes a funny noise or acts weird.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

maybe a sticky relay that only completes the circuit some of the time. i think power to the fuel pump goes through 2 relays.. one before the fuse block and one after. the one before would be near the fuse block itself inside the car, and the one after would be behind the trunk carpeting just to the left of the trunk latch.

ujm

I'm the new owner of a 1994 model. Appears to be the base model, kind of a faded gold color.

97,000 miles on it, from what I've been reading, should still have a lot of life left in it.

I'm not going to ask any questions about what oil to use, or what air filter will give me the most power.

The right rear window regulator was bad, replaced it in about an hour with a $27.00 eBay part, works great now. If I had seen the guy on here selling them I would of bought it from him, even if it was a few bucks more, just because I like to support the members of the forums I visit.

So far, everything works on the car. Has a bit of a cat funk to it, person I bought it from kept in garaged - next to the kitty litter box......

Amazingly peppy, very pleased with that.

Handling, my other car is a Porsche 944 so I am not real impressed. Probably could improve the handling on the cheap with different springs/shocks (??).

Biggest problem I have is a lack of legroom - I'm thinking about pulling the seat and seeing how difficult it will be to move it back a few inches.

I'm looking forward to learning and contributing

Steve

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

yea, base is GXE, top model is SE. they all had the same motor from 89-91 but in 92-94 the SE had a special 24v motor (VE) where the base model kept the same ol' VG motor (same motor as a z31 300zx). easy way to tell if yours is a base model is that the GXE has black faced gauges and the grille is chrome and no spoiler on the trunk, vs the SE where the gauges are white-faced and the grille is body color, with a spoiler.

but realistically the air filter doesn't matter for crap. you might get 1 or 2 HP gain tops with a high-end air filter. most of us use cone filters just for the sound. if you want a noticeable increase in horsepower, go with a warpspeed ypipe for your exhaust for about $150.

best bang for your buck suspension-wise is eibach drop springs with tokico struts. konis are better (and adjustible for stiffness), but more expensive. anything with a deeper drop than eibachs will have 2 problems... 1) it'll be hella stiff and 2) since we have MacFailSon struts up front, the camber will start to go positive (leaning away from the body) under compression which will really hurt handling from having a smaller contact patch. Sadly this is one area where the Honda Accord walks all over the Maxima, since it has double wishbones in front, which always gains negative camber under compression to compensate for body roll and sidewall flex. there are absolutely positively NO coilover setups for the 3rd gen no matter what you read or who tries to tell you otherwise (usually ebay companies assume that since the 4th gen Max is an A32 then an A31 must be a 3rd gen, but the A31 is actually a RWD non-US car, whereas the 3rd gen is a J30). a Suspension Techniques rear swaybar will dramatically improve cornering as well; nc90gxe put one onto his already-dropped car and said the difference was night-and-day. They make a front one too but on a FWD car you always want to do the rear first, then the front if you want to do both.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

something on the site side. I can't, either.

edit: reported for ya.
http://forums.maxima.org/feedback-su...403-error.html

jncojr

thank you It would be nice to access it again to be able to see everything that is offered for my car, although the stock parts for the SE are not bad (TwinCam 24V V6 w/ fuel injection).

jncojr

Are You talking about doing it with the key or the button on the driver door? With the key, if you unlock the driver door twice, all of the doors unlock. Just turn the key to unlock the door then turn it again.

ujm

Couple questions -

"GXE" model (I assume, no spoiler, not a 24V engine)

Keyless entry system, can it be reprogrammed?

Fuel - Premium is what I thought the manual suggested, true or ???

I think that is it for this fine morning - Thanks in advance!!!

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

gxe had no dohc (24v), had black gauges and body colored mirrors. spoiler was an option.
I have hte same engine (sohc, 12v) in my 91 SE, I run anything at the pump. regular gets me the best gas mileage.
I am going back to bed, too early.... crap, have to be at work in an hour and a half...

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

yea actually the fact that you even have keypads is a dead-giveaway of it being a GXE. they were standard on GXE (base model), and not even offered on the SE. Weird, i know. and GXE automatically means VG/Auto

anyways yes it can be programmed. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/454290/7

JETMAX

1992 GXE starting problem- Replaced fuel pump,fuel relay, and ignition switch. The fuel pump is intermentent on pumping. Anyone have a suggestion to fix? I have to turn the key sometimes 15-20 times before I hear the pump come on.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

with the key, my door lock timer is busted so i cant use my keypad or inside buttons.

thats the problem, if i turn it again on the drivers side its not doing the multi unlock, it came in handy lol

ujm

Thanks for the info guys.

Had to make a 288 mile this this morning, 27 MPG was what I got and I was not being easy on it, amazing.

I'll probably still run Premium, may try a tank of regular and see if I can tell any difference. I'll double check the manual, thought it called for premium, who knows -

Hey, when I check for the keyless entry code I'll check the manual at the same time!

Better get to it.....

ujm

OK, cool, door code reprogrammed, that was too easy.

Here is the car -



The Engine -



Nice basic car.

The manual states premium is requested for optimum performance -



And after that 288 mile drive this morning, I need to get the seat moved back - need more legroom.

Only other issue, the cruise control is sloppy, almost a 10 MPH difference at times.


Anyone addressed those issues??

Thanks in advance ! ! ! !

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

lol get used to the cruise control slop..all 3rd gens have that issue

ujm

nyc_ink

iTrader: (1)

i wonna change my injectors this week. im doing it myself so i would like to know what hoses do i need to replace or any other things i should change when i do this.
can someone help me out or link me to a thread if its been made already.

thanks

ujm

I'm looking forward to being able to start threads.

Decided to look under the hood. Check the oil, fine. Nice new oil filter, everything looks good, no, great.

Air filter, looks easy to check - clip clip clip . . . . .

It's a brilliant day here in the midwest. We had the first thunderstorm of the year this morning, and this afternoon turned into one of those brilliant, bright clear days that comes only for a few moments in a lifetime -

And I hold this stock appearing air filter up to the sun and see nada, dark, clogged old airfilter, though I doubt stock, still, it's gotta go.

Red flag - let's pull a plug.

It's a #6, so I assume it's been replaced at least once.

Sure needs to be replaced again -

Air Filter; Spark Plugs

Check the distributor cap and rotor, well worn, probably original with 94,000 miles - I'll price them first, the 944 taught me that lesson early on.

Wires look good, heck, the car runs GREAT.

I'm leaning towards a stock type air filter. I've found K&N's flow great but filter poorly - it's a compromise to get the air flow. Great for certain applications, I use them, but not in this one, for me.

Plugs, copper NGK's - I'll check them every 15,000 anyway out of habit, might as well just replace them.

5's or 6's, I dunno, decide later.

Rotor, cap, I'm going to think about that. Might be time to toss on some new wires, if I'm going that far, I'll price it out and see if the net saves me any money - or I'll gladly pay more locally if the parts guys treat me like a customer, and, generally, they do.

We all pick our parts stores, well, I shouldn't of said all, but anyway, that's another thread, what makes a really good parts store -

I'm rambling, taking the wife out on the town tonight (to the parts store).

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

.... based on the weather description, you live in Oklahoma....

ujm

Close, Missouri.

Installed new air filter, PVC valve and spark plugs.

Had someone drop off a VT750 with a bad hesitation problem, did not get a chance to drive the car.

VT750 only had 2400 miles on it, but sat a lot. The carb had some sediment in the bowl that plugged the slow jet, ect.

Delivered it back to the owner a few moments ago, nice to make someone happy (an dput a few bucks in the pocket!)

lkiller123

Quite new owner of a 94 Maxima SE. I bought it in 06 with 68k miles on it. By now it still runs very nice and everything that needs to be replaced were engine oil, power steering oil, the tires, and the fuel injectors. It is still running strong right now at about 100k.

Everything went fine until the antenna gets kinda cranky. It starts to "lag" when it's supposed to be up, and you will need to pull it up. When it needs to be down, it won't go down until I give it a little push. Now my instinct tells me I will need WD-40 for that. Done that, but the problem persists.

Today I tried to fix it again, I pulled it up when it goes half way. It went by itself. I thought it was fix for a while but then, when it's supposed to be down, it won't go down. I tried to push it down, still won't work. And then I gave it a hard push, still won't work. I am sure the antenna motor is still working, as I could hear it run. What should I do now?

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

do you still get good quality radio and such? i think mine barely even moves lol. i think its a common problem, i still get perfect reception

lkiller123

The Bose still goes very nice. I just need it to be retracted when I do not need it, it looks very odd to me.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

yeah mine is stuck fully up or near fully up, looks a bit weird but i'll probably remove mine

lkiller123

is there any ways to fix the antenna? how about the cost?

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

not sure myself, but there might be a motor or something for it that needs replacing, Benstoked should pop by and know