*NOOBIES* The "I am new here,but have a question" thread..(post your questions here)
02-21-2010, 02:32 PM
#4921
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Rhinelander WI
Posts: 217
I have a 1989 nissan maxima. It sat for 7 years, since ive had it i put on, new spark plugs, spark plug wires, K&N filter, Camshaft position sensor/Distributer, clutch, water pump, rear main seal, timing belt, tires, interior work, and exhaust. nothing major, just regular fix ups. When i got it after sitting, it appeared only the spark plug wires were chewed on by mice. Im having a very big problem with it tho. It starts fine, and the computer tells me code #55, meaning nothings wrong. When i drove it it missed and spit and had very little power, but sounded nice under 2000RPM. So i looked at it, I found out my injector was spraying in way to much fuel, i could smell it and that cylinder, plus 2 others were not firing. all 3 back cylinders run fine, but none of the front run at all. the far left front cylinder, i think #2, Was spraying way to much fuel, so i replaced the computer, later to find out it dident fix it, and plus my other 2 front cylinders, i think #s 4 and 6, werent getting enough fuel. i tested them, the far left front injector plug read like 13v, the other 2 read around 2.57v. all 3 back ones read between 11 and 12v. but the front 3 stay the same they dont change ever, to open and close. im getting spark, air, and fuel, i checked, throttle position sensor, grounds, emission control sensor, plugs, compression, intake, and they all turned out good. Ive seen on forums people have this same probllem, ive been trying to figure this out for a few months now, could you please help me or just tell me what i could do or need to do to fix this? Thank you very much, Robert Zeromski.
02-22-2010, 02:55 PM
#4922
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: queens
Posts: 2
5 speed tranny
Heyy wats up to everyone I'm new to the forum...I just wanted to know if someone could help me I'm looking for a manual transmission for my 94 max vg30.. Does anyone have any sugesstions on where I should look I can't find any
02-22-2010, 03:29 PM
#4923
you're doing a 5spd swap? Cuz no 94 VG maxima came with a manual, as the only 92-94 model with a VG was the base GXE which only came automatic.. only the SE model (VG30E 89-91, VE30DE 92-94) had 5spd trannies. And it does matter which engine the tranny came off of, because the axles/hubs/differential/gearing are different.
02-23-2010, 07:10 PM
#4924
Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 166
ive got to deal with the Z31 turbo stuff now with the 3rd gen and have alot to build up on her so i wont be doing the cluster swap, i most likely do what i originally intended, using the 280z gauges i got. i also was too late to get the wiring from the Brougham i got the gauge cluster off and its crushed, and another junkyard Brougham most likely wont be around for a long time
02-23-2010, 07:16 PM
#4925
02-23-2010, 07:18 PM
#4926
Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 166
Not exactly, I have the black e36 headlights to match. Go onto cardomain and look at 89-94 Max's and you'll see what im talking about. They're not smoked, and they look way better than the clear corner lights. All you need is a nice blue bulb. Check them out, you may like them.
Last edited by badazzsupamax; 02-24-2010 at 04:34 PM.
02-23-2010, 09:06 PM
#4927
02-26-2010, 07:37 PM
#4930
depends, if youre in the country you could go even 5% because of minimal cops/them not caring, in the city you will get pulled over for it. here cops always pull people over for small stuff if their windows tinted, and tinted windows let them search for drugs as well.
02-26-2010, 08:12 PM
#4931
10% or lighter, imo.
20% is almost ideal, provides privacy and shade, while not being too dark for night, or illegal in most areas.
02-26-2010, 08:23 PM
#4932
i want to tint mine bad but people i know have gotten pulled over for not signaling and their windows are tinted, when i sometimes dont signal and cops have seen me do it and one time i turned right at a intersection on a red light without stopping/slowing down (late night, no traffic though) and a cop was right behind me and he didnt care, a untinted 4dr car looks innocent i guess lol.
whats going to happen is either when i turbo my 3rd gen i take the bus in the meantime and keep the Max as a DD or buy a 240sx/Silvia/Skyline GTS-T or cheap GTR/240z and use it in the meantime/as a DD and make the Max a weekend/nighttime car. if i go that route i probably will go 10% on the Max
im just so tempted though because even high end garages are doing a winter special with all 4 windows for $150 or all 5 for $175
whats going to happen is either when i turbo my 3rd gen i take the bus in the meantime and keep the Max as a DD or buy a 240sx/Silvia/Skyline GTS-T or cheap GTR/240z and use it in the meantime/as a DD and make the Max a weekend/nighttime car. if i go that route i probably will go 10% on the Max
im just so tempted though because even high end garages are doing a winter special with all 4 windows for $150 or all 5 for $175
02-26-2010, 08:34 PM
#4933
02-27-2010, 01:18 PM
#4934
03-02-2010, 07:30 AM
#4935
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Mohave Valley, AZ
Posts: 43
Headers
Hey guys, my 91 maxima se is missing a few exhaust manifold studs. I know this will be a pain in the a$$ to fix but i'm replacing the motor mounts anyway so i'll get to the studs at the same time. i want to put a set of headers on to replace the stock ones. i found a set of pacesetter headers for around $200. my question is, will these headers mount up to my stock y-pipe? otherwise would i be better off re-using my stock headers and just getting a warpspeed y-pipe to increase power?
03-02-2010, 08:26 AM
#4936
Hey guys, my 91 maxima se is missing a few exhaust manifold studs. I know this will be a pain in the a$$ to fix but i'm replacing the motor mounts anyway so i'll get to the studs at the same time. i want to put a set of headers on to replace the stock ones. i found a set of pacesetter headers for around $200. my question is, will these headers mount up to my stock y-pipe? otherwise would i be better off re-using my stock headers and just getting a warpspeed y-pipe to increase power?
03-02-2010, 09:09 PM
#4937
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Mohave Valley, AZ
Posts: 43
i've heard the same else where. my manifold studs have been broken for a long time. this may have resulted in some warpage of the header itself. anyone got a decent set of stock headers for sale for a 91 maxima??? now, i can get the warpspeed y pipe for $199 or i can get the y-pipe/high flow cat combo for $285. what is the better deal? can i just use my stock cat?
03-02-2010, 09:22 PM
#4938
i've heard the same else where. my manifold studs have been broken for a long time. this may have resulted in some warpage of the header itself. anyone got a decent set of stock headers for sale for a 91 maxima??? now, i can get the warpspeed y pipe for $199 or i can get the y-pipe/high flow cat combo for $285. what is the better deal? can i just use my stock cat?
03-03-2010, 04:30 PM
#4939
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Mohave Valley, AZ
Posts: 43
it'll be a week or two before i start this project. what do you want for em? i'm also looking for both driver and passenger side tail light lenses, if you're interested in selling them.
03-03-2010, 05:31 PM
#4940
03-06-2010, 01:41 PM
#4942
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 21
Car bucks and chugs while cold. Once it warms up good, no problem whatsoever. I can pull my coolant temperature sensor and it'll run better while cold(chugs a little, but no bucking). Smells like it's running rich and my gas mileage is horrible. On top of all this, I got laid off Thursday. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
03-06-2010, 10:17 PM
#4943
Junior Member
![D@$uPeRc[-]@RgER's Avatar](data:image/svg+xml;utf8,<svg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' viewBox='0 0 50 50'><circle class='avatar-circle-default' fill='%23d078d1' cx='25px' cy='25px' r='20px'></circle><text class='avatar-text-default' x='49%' y='53%' fill='white' text-anchor='middle' alignment-baseline='middle'>D</text></svg>)
Join Date: May 2009
Location: DuBois, PA
Posts: 20
Hello,
I've been having electrical problems with my 93 SE auto for a while now. Long story short, when you run the car for 20-30 minutes it starts to buck and dies. It won't restart, even though the starter does crank the motor. If you let it stand for around 10 minutes or so and try again then it starts right up like nothing happened.
This problem is somewhat dependent on ambient temperature where the hotter it is the more likely the car is gonna die. So i thought i'd start with the relays and when i took off BOTH the Engine Cont. AND the Ign/Theft relay on the right side of the battery and cranked the car it started right up! Not only that, the car ran like nothing was wrong but the problem did not go away either!
Does anyone have any idea what the hell's going on? This problem's annoying to the point where i just wanna junk the car! (flame suit on)
I've been having electrical problems with my 93 SE auto for a while now. Long story short, when you run the car for 20-30 minutes it starts to buck and dies. It won't restart, even though the starter does crank the motor. If you let it stand for around 10 minutes or so and try again then it starts right up like nothing happened.
This problem is somewhat dependent on ambient temperature where the hotter it is the more likely the car is gonna die. So i thought i'd start with the relays and when i took off BOTH the Engine Cont. AND the Ign/Theft relay on the right side of the battery and cranked the car it started right up! Not only that, the car ran like nothing was wrong but the problem did not go away either!
Does anyone have any idea what the hell's going on? This problem's annoying to the point where i just wanna junk the car! (flame suit on)
03-07-2010, 07:10 AM
#4944
I've swapped out my injectors(they are firing), TPS, o2 sensor, MAF, CTS, and I've done a complete tune-up(cap,rotor,wires,plugs, etc). I'm completely lost. I thought for sure that it would be the MAF.
Car bucks and chugs while cold. Once it warms up good, no problem whatsoever. I can pull my coolant temperature sensor and it'll run better while cold(chugs a little, but no bucking). Smells like it's running rich and my gas mileage is horrible. On top of all this, I got laid off Thursday. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Car bucks and chugs while cold. Once it warms up good, no problem whatsoever. I can pull my coolant temperature sensor and it'll run better while cold(chugs a little, but no bucking). Smells like it's running rich and my gas mileage is horrible. On top of all this, I got laid off Thursday. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
03-07-2010, 12:17 PM
#4945
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 21
It wouldn't have crossed my mind to check that. I will do it ASAP if someone could give me a tip on how to bleed it(or if I find it via search first).
Thanks!
03-07-2010, 12:46 PM
#4946
park car facing as seeply uphill as you possibly can, let car cool down, remove radiator cap, fill radiator if needed, turn car on, turn the climate control to FULL hot and let it run (important) let it run until bubbles go away. you can squeeze the radiator hoses while it's running to help it burp the bubbles out.
03-07-2010, 07:43 PM
#4947
2 things i need help with
1. my shifter does not move unless i use the over ride button on the bottom and the click sound from when i stepped on the brake to use the shifter is gone. (no its not the shifter lock fuse and all my brake bulbs all working)
2. when i going like 50 and have to stop suddenly stop like if the light catches me i hear a sound when i step on the brakes like a cable being stretched or sumthin its a weird sound.
1. my shifter does not move unless i use the over ride button on the bottom and the click sound from when i stepped on the brake to use the shifter is gone. (no its not the shifter lock fuse and all my brake bulbs all working)
2. when i going like 50 and have to stop suddenly stop like if the light catches me i hear a sound when i step on the brakes like a cable being stretched or sumthin its a weird sound.
03-07-2010, 08:18 PM
#4948
2 things i need help with
1. my shifter does not move unless i use the over ride button on the bottom and the click sound from when i stepped on the brake to use the shifter is gone. (no its not the shifter lock fuse and all my brake bulbs all working)
2. when i going like 50 and have to stop suddenly stop like if the light catches me i hear a sound when i step on the brakes like a cable being stretched or sumthin its a weird sound.
1. my shifter does not move unless i use the over ride button on the bottom and the click sound from when i stepped on the brake to use the shifter is gone. (no its not the shifter lock fuse and all my brake bulbs all working)
2. when i going like 50 and have to stop suddenly stop like if the light catches me i hear a sound when i step on the brakes like a cable being stretched or sumthin its a weird sound.
03-07-2010, 08:28 PM
#4949
03-07-2010, 11:22 PM
#4950
well leave it plugged in... have someone step on the brake pedal with the key in the ON position (car doesn't actually have to be running) and stick your head down next to the box and listen to find out if the green box clicks when the pedal is depressed. if it does click, then the problem is after it. if it doesn't click then the problem is either before it, or is it.
the clicking inside that box is way quieter than the clicking of the shifter solenoid itself so you might not hear it from the driver's seat even if it is working. after my 5spd swap i left mine in so i could audibly hear when my brakelights were coming on since i could no longer look at the reflection from my rear window b/c i had converted from a rear-window brakelight to spoiler brakelight.
the clicking inside that box is way quieter than the clicking of the shifter solenoid itself so you might not hear it from the driver's seat even if it is working. after my 5spd swap i left mine in so i could audibly hear when my brakelights were coming on since i could no longer look at the reflection from my rear window b/c i had converted from a rear-window brakelight to spoiler brakelight.
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 03-07-2010 at 11:25 PM.
03-08-2010, 01:29 AM
#4951
well leave it plugged in... have someone step on the brake pedal with the key in the ON position (car doesn't actually have to be running) and stick your head down next to the box and listen to find out if the green box clicks when the pedal is depressed. if it does click, then the problem is after it. if it doesn't click then the problem is either before it, or is it.
the clicking inside that box is way quieter than the clicking of the shifter solenoid itself so you might not hear it from the driver's seat even if it is working. after my 5spd swap i left mine in so i could audibly hear when my brakelights were coming on since i could no longer look at the reflection from my rear window b/c i had converted from a rear-window brakelight to spoiler brakelight.
the clicking inside that box is way quieter than the clicking of the shifter solenoid itself so you might not hear it from the driver's seat even if it is working. after my 5spd swap i left mine in so i could audibly hear when my brakelights were coming on since i could no longer look at the reflection from my rear window b/c i had converted from a rear-window brakelight to spoiler brakelight.
would u happen to know the 2nd thing i posted? loose brake lines?
03-08-2010, 11:56 PM
#4952
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 21
park car facing as seeply uphill as you possibly can, let car cool down, remove radiator cap, fill radiator if needed, turn car on, turn the climate control to FULL hot and let it run (important) let it run until bubbles go away. you can squeeze the radiator hoses while it's running to help it burp the bubbles out.
Bled the coolant system tonight. Followed your instructions and it took about 20 minutes or more before I stopped seeing bubbles. My heat is much hotter, but my problems did not go away.
Let me see if I can more accurately describe what my car is doing: Chugs and burps when cold. It hesitates to the point of seeming like I've let off the gas and when I actually let off the pedal it seems to start responding again. Sometimes my throttle will jump up without me changing the pedal position(then it drops back down). Sometimes it seems to drop into a lower gear. It was hesitating like I described even after it warmed up this time. For some reason, I still think this is TPS related.
03-11-2010, 08:46 AM
#4953
While it's still fresh on my mind:
Bled the coolant system tonight. Followed your instructions and it took about 20 minutes or more before I stopped seeing bubbles. My heat is much hotter, but my problems did not go away.
Let me see if I can more accurately describe what my car is doing: Chugs and burps when cold. It hesitates to the point of seeming like I've let off the gas and when I actually let off the pedal it seems to start responding again. Sometimes my throttle will jump up without me changing the pedal position(then it drops back down). Sometimes it seems to drop into a lower gear. It was hesitating like I described even after it warmed up this time. For some reason, I still think this is TPS related.
Bled the coolant system tonight. Followed your instructions and it took about 20 minutes or more before I stopped seeing bubbles. My heat is much hotter, but my problems did not go away.
Let me see if I can more accurately describe what my car is doing: Chugs and burps when cold. It hesitates to the point of seeming like I've let off the gas and when I actually let off the pedal it seems to start responding again. Sometimes my throttle will jump up without me changing the pedal position(then it drops back down). Sometimes it seems to drop into a lower gear. It was hesitating like I described even after it warmed up this time. For some reason, I still think this is TPS related.
I know on a VE I can read the sensor data with my scanner which would be able to tell me how the sensors are working.
I'm not sure if I can pull the same data from a VG.
03-11-2010, 09:06 AM
#4954
um.. what type of rear brakes do you have? and how fresh are all the pads/shoes (if applicable) and do you use duracrap or better stuff like Hawk?
03-11-2010, 09:06 AM
#4955
03-11-2010, 08:30 PM
#4956
n00bery here but i searched and just found threads with timing in them, how often should the VG timing belt be replaced? previous owner of mine did it in 2004 at about 380,000km IIRC and its at almost 420,000km now
03-11-2010, 08:36 PM
#4957
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Illinois
Posts: 399
okay i am really not new here...been here for almost a year....however,i am having a problem making a post.....every time i email the activation codes to my email address...i never get the email (you know...via the FAQ link)....and it is not in my SPAM folder either...i have been trying for a little while now (tried different email accounts) and I just don't know how to get this going....i would really appreciate it if anyone has any suggestions.....thanks......
03-11-2010, 08:38 PM
#4958
okay i am really not new here...been here for almost a year....however,i am having a problem making a post.....every time i email the activation codes to my email address...i never get the email (you know...via the FAQ link)....and it is not in my SPAM folder either...i have been trying for a little while now (tried different email accounts) and I just don't know how to get this going....i would really appreciate it if anyone has any suggestions.....thanks......
03-11-2010, 09:54 PM
#4959
round tooth 100k miles / 160k kilometers
