most likely u wll be fine but if u want a guarantee u can try this:

http://www.advancedjdmparts.com/prod...roductid=18738

 

I have tried this already, but i am willing to add more if necessary!
Do you think it would hurt to put another one in here. ITs been about 2 months since i tried it.

 

Quick question. Whats the stock injector size on the vg?

 

i already posted that info in your build thread
http://forums.maxima.org/7033237-post103.html

 

You mean cc flow rate?

If yes, then 180cc for vg injectors

 

Yes, but I got it taken care of.

Rule: Dont listen to Advanced Auto Alternator testers. Go by what you know and change the ALT. lol

Thanks for the concern though

 

My car started makeing this high pitched squel when ever im on the brakes stoped at a red light. anybody have any ideas on wats wrong with my car?

 

does nontinue whaen you are stopped, or when you are stopping?
check your brakes.

 

if it happens when you are still, where does it sound like it's coming from? can you pull into the driveway and have someone else listen for the source of the sound?

 

everbody says it coming from the front i just did my brakes and did get new rotors u think that could be it?

 

the 'front' of the car is not very specific. either way, does it make the noise when the car is still? if so it can't be the brakes. if it shuts up once the car is fully stopped then it could be the brakes.

 

Lemme guess, autozone pads, right?

 

Well it looks as though my tranny went south. I pulled the drain plug and there is a good bit of tiny metal attached. the tranny is acting crazier and crazier, so i am pretty sure its gone.

so what do i do now? I want to sell the car. I have another and don't want it anymore.
Suggestions? Its not worth much, probably $1700 in good working order, and currently it ain't working.
1994 Grey maxima SOHC
205k miles I believe its a GXE (no roof, or leather, or wing)
The car is in awesome shape and its a shame it has come to this.
Do i part this thing out, or find someone who wants this car to fix.?

Most decent trannys are going for about $700 bucks. Wayy more than i want to spend on this car and then spend days putting it in.

Down in the dumps.........

 

can you drive a manual car? if so then you can do a 5spd swap like i did when my auto tranny died. i have another max (89 5spd) that i'm debating parting out rather than fixing.. so you could buy the whole swap setup from that car. where do you live anyhow?

 

I am in Atlanta GA. Thank you for the suggestion.

 

I'm not sure if this is a problem or I am imagining it.

When I'm under load at low rpm's and accelerating the engine seems to vibrate or run rough, it doesn't really shake the car but it does feel a bit underpowered, but if I keep it in higher rpm's ( downshift so I'm accellerating from 3k+) then it's fine. Is that just how these cars are?

Also I was told by the previous owner that he had the motor replaced with a jy motor, while I was replacing the clutch I noticed that the exhaust bolt holes on the front didn't match up on the runner farthest to the driver's site, the holes were oposite what the manifold had. I didn't check the back of the motor. Where there different versions of this motor with different exhaust port bolt holes? or are the manifolds backwards?

thanks guys!

 

manifolds won't fit backwards. one has an EGR bung and the other doesn't, plus the rear one comes down further and the post-collection pipes are offset to the driverside so if they were backwards the pipes would be dumping straight onto the xmember.

what part of raleigh are you in? i'm in north raleigh, so if you want to meet up some time i can take a look at it. i also have a VG 5spd. i'm available until tuesday when i start my new job.

 

Is there any way to tell if its the torque converter?

I think mine locks up when cold. I am not going to drive it anymore till i figure it out. once the car warms up it drives like normal. But when its cold and i put it in gear it slams forward like i dumped the clutch.

It shifts ok all the time.

 

no i ordered them through stillen. i i personally belive it sounds like pulley bearing goin bad but i cant figure out y it would do it when im at a complete stop

 

how often does it do it? all the time? cold engine? warm engine?

if you it makes the sound all the time, it should be easy to pop the hood and get a better idea of where it's coming from. all your friends that said 'brakes' are idiots if it makes the noise when the car's standing still. it's possible to be the a/c or p/s tensioner pulleys tho.

 

then the engine is warm and it dosn't do it all the time. but when i go into the city i seems to do it more often (probably casue im using the brakes more)

 

uh... if the noise is present when the car is sitting still it has NOTHING to do with the brakes. if you happen to catch it making the noise at a convenient time (like after you just pulled in the driveway) then leave it running, pop the hood, and listen for the source of the noise. it'll still make the noise when the car's in park right? if you're not sure, put it in Park for a few seconds next time it's making the noise at a stoplight to see if the noise continues.

 

no thats y i can't figure it out its only when im in drive on the brakes. i just got back from driving it and when i put the a/c on it stoped then i turned it off and it started again

 

I need help real quick. I was doing to "sprinted" driving coming back from Seattle, but since my speedo doesnt work, I usually turn on my lights are drive by my RPM through the I-90 tunnels, but coming back, my gauges didnt light up. When I was going there, they worked perfect. So I came home and turn on my lights, and nothing dimmed, but when I pressed the brake, they worked?.... I dont know how, but what is wrong.

 

sounds like some loose wires imo.

 

I just remembered that my bro-in-law told me my right rear brake lights were out, so I changed them with ones I had already bought....

Also I went to check to see if the gauges work, and they dont. But when I push the brake now, nothing happens. Usually the interior lights would dim, not anymore.

 

i have a 90 se wondering if you can completly do away with the egr system i have no emissions to pass so i am clear on that

 

I I made a diagram of my exhaust port issues. Any insight?

 

yeah ur not the first with this issue i remeber seeing this before not sure where...i ttried searching couldn't find it... but those arent gonna fit just buy another set from a j/y and remeber to install the exhaust manifolds with z31 turbo studs so they wont break in the future

 

if they are the right part but the heads are from a z31 (i guess) then he can just swap the studs into the proper position. there are extra threaded holes for multiple configurations. i'm meeting him in person and looking at his car tomorrow or sunday so i'll be able to see what's what.

 

Hey all my first of 15 post that I must make in here so,I had to order a warpspeed y pipe for my 94 se whats the normal turn around on one of these bad boys? And are there any options for motor mounts cause thats how I snapped the y pipe lol stupid hondas
After getting this car and finding this site I have replaced the tranny (bad IPSB),rear bank injectors,front timing seal, ES front and rear bushings, swapped to the E36 headlights (thanks to a deer) CAI, FSTB and removed the color and reflector from the rear turn and backup lights
Now I just need to figure out how to get the old lady to let me lower it,took me 3 years to get her to understand that my 1 ton chevy needed slammed Also need to find a hi flow muffler that sounds good when I'm on it but not so ricey to wake up the kids when they are in the back sleeping under regular driving Thanks guys keep the great info coming

 

"Hallo" from Austria!

I have a question, i want "Skyline look" taillights for my J30 Maxima, someone who have any ideas? I can´t find anything...

Someone knows if Skyline R33 taillights could be a possibility?

Sorry for bad english and thanks for your answers!

 

can you cut / weld/ use body filler?
if yes then you can do it.
if not then nisht

 

hmm... not by myself but friends from the "garage".

Maybe you know someone here, what have made a conversion? (or pics would be perfect)

In any case, thanks for your quick answer!

 

I have a 94 nissan maxima.I am having a power steering leak and used a good degreaser after cleaning,i noticed a wire being split off the main harness by a pig tail by the power steering pump(don't know what it was attached to).I assumed it was loose due to being wrapped in that heat resistant foil,i tugged on it slightly and it gave exposing bare wire,but not knowing where it actually detached from.I am now having the problem of it sputtering like its attempting to die.The pig tail is male with two metal clips protruding from the inside and reattaching to to the harness.It has two wires splitting out at the other end and being joined together as one,yet insulated by that heat resistant foil? I went to a junk yard and found that it's attached to a big plastic and metal nut that is screwed to the block of the car?Any help will be appreciated, as to what the name is(sensor)? The dealer couldn't help as far as the part goes.

 

Hello everyone,

I just bought a '92 SE 5-spd for $400 because of a bad water pump. Replaced the pump, then noticed a hesitation. Found the #5 and #6 had oil in the plug area due to bad valve cover gaskets. Fixed that, now I have a problem I can't seem to solve.

The car stutters from idle to about 3,000 rpms. After 3,000 rpms, it cleans up completely. It feels like a dead hole and has the associated putt-putt-putt from the exhaust. This problem did not occur until AFTER I replaced the valve cover gaskets, which required removal of the upper intake manifold. I was thinking a bad coil, so I tried disconnecting one coil at a time to identify the bad cylinder. It ran the same, with the associated "cleanup" of the stutter at 3k, regardless of which cylinder was unplugged.

So what to check next? Idle quality is good, save for the stutter. Gas mileage 15-16 mpg (80% cty/20% hwy). Plugs are new. All vacuum lines are hooked up and look ok. Appreciate any and all help.

 

if its not a direct fit youre going to need to do some sheet metal work. on car domain ive seen some 3rd gens with R33 tails and it looks good, but you can find a 1990 skyline stock for as low as $3000 now, doing all of the modding to a 3rd gen could run up to already a 3rd of that

 

Hmm.. i see...

But the problem is, if i would buy a Skyline for 3.000€ or USD, i have to pay ~1500-2000 for shipping, and ~5.000€ or USD for TÜV (TÜV is the "individual license" hope you can understand it right).

Short order, a car with a price from 3.000 USD will cost me finally ~ 10.000 USD to be allowed to drive it in Austria.

I live in the wrong country, that is what i know but it doesn´t helps to solve my problems about the taillights.

So i see, it is possible to put R33 taillights on my car, but it is a complex work.

Ok,... thank you all for your answers!
It´s pity, that there exist no tuning taillights for the J30...

 

you may also want to check the legality of changing your lights. if you are following typical EU rules then you can't

 

I have a 1993 Nissan Maxima GXE with a SOHC VG30E motor. The motor (used, ~38,000 miles) was dropped in about 2 months ago after a head gasket blew on the original (~150,000 miles)... for two days after the new motor was in, it was difficult to start - it would crank and eventually start - sometimes taking 20-30 minutes to start up. Then the problem went away for two months, until it stalled out at a stoplight. Now it won't start at all. From reading the forums here, it sounds like the most likely candidate is one of the two crankshaft sensors... except that I can't find either of the sensors on the engine or the transaxle. The Haynes manual is wonderfully NOT helpful here, as the diagram below indicates that the sensor is located in a position that is completely devoid of sensors on my vehicle:


The location depicted for the REF sensor is also, surprisingly, missing a sensor.

Consulting the NAPA site, the two crankshaft sensors pictured look nothing like the sensors in the Haynes manual (and cost about 4x as much as what is pictured in Haynes). As of yet, I cannot locate anything to do with either crankshaft sensor in the FSM.

As far as the no-start issue goes, I have spark, I have fuel, and I have compression; cranking the starter will cause the distributor to turn.

Putting the ECM into diagnostic mode generates an error code for the CTS, but I don't think that this would prevent the car from starting?

Please help!