*NOOBIES* The "I am new here,but have a question" thread..(post your questions here)
09-08-2010, 05:40 PM
#5801
I bought a 91 maxima SE for $300 and it needs some work. I am no stranger to cars and the internals, but the Maxi is new to me. I went to my dealer and the prices they want for bolts ($9 for each of the head bolts and $8 for each of the manifold bolts)
, no friggin way! I am pulling the rear head due to the car being drivin with 4 of 6 bolts busted on the manifold and i want to check the valves. Where do you recommend I get them from that the price wont kill me and the what manifold bolts do you recommend? I was also told by the dealership that there are 2 types of head bolts, it depends on vin #. I don't need bolts for both heads as the front is just fine.
Thank you in advance!
Adam
, no friggin way! I am pulling the rear head due to the car being drivin with 4 of 6 bolts busted on the manifold and i want to check the valves. Where do you recommend I get them from that the price wont kill me and the what manifold bolts do you recommend? I was also told by the dealership that there are 2 types of head bolts, it depends on vin #. I don't need bolts for both heads as the front is just fine.Thank you in advance!
Adam
second, reuse the stock head bolts. FSM does not call for replacement, due to removing the heads.
third, fourth, and fifth: I hear you can use stainless bolts from the hardware store for manifolds. I do not recall what size they are, but wanna say 10mm? it's a standard size, for sure. others have upgraded to vg33e studs (from a pathfinder, for example), that are a size bigger (so, if stock is 10mm, they are 12mm.requires drilling and tapping the holes, though.
mani stud breakage is common on our cars, but it usually is caused by bad, old motor mounts. I would suggest replacing them while you are working on it. it's about an hour (or two) extra work, but well worth it (as insurance, and comfort)
nice find, hope to see you around.
09-08-2010, 07:32 PM
#5802
first piece of advice, stay away from that stealership. I know of no such rubbish about the head bolts on a 91 maxima (92+, yes)
second, reuse the stock head bolts. FSM does not call for replacement, due to removing the heads.
third, fourth, and fifth: I hear you can use stainless bolts from the hardware store for manifolds. I do not recall what size they are, but wanna say 10mm? it's a standard size, for sure. others have upgraded to vg33e studs (from a pathfinder, for example), that are a size bigger (so, if stock is 10mm, they are 12mm.requires drilling and tapping the holes, though.
mani stud breakage is common on our cars, but it usually is caused by bad, old motor mounts. I would suggest replacing them while you are working on it. it's about an hour (or two) extra work, but well worth it (as insurance, and comfort)
nice find, hope to see you around.
second, reuse the stock head bolts. FSM does not call for replacement, due to removing the heads.
third, fourth, and fifth: I hear you can use stainless bolts from the hardware store for manifolds. I do not recall what size they are, but wanna say 10mm? it's a standard size, for sure. others have upgraded to vg33e studs (from a pathfinder, for example), that are a size bigger (so, if stock is 10mm, they are 12mm.requires drilling and tapping the holes, though.
mani stud breakage is common on our cars, but it usually is caused by bad, old motor mounts. I would suggest replacing them while you are working on it. it's about an hour (or two) extra work, but well worth it (as insurance, and comfort)
nice find, hope to see you around.
Thanks,
Adam
09-08-2010, 09:50 PM
#5803
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 20
I'm new to the forum and wanted to get some help on finding where the speed sensor is located. I have a 92 nissan maxima se with the ve30de. Also I just brought 3 brand new ignition coils for the left side because they were cracked. So with doing so I thought it would get rid of the stalling when I step on it. Its like the car is jerking until I take my foot off the gas then it goes away. I just want to know why I am getting this problem. Oh yeah the right side coils are brand new too. I would greatly appreciate all the help I can get.
09-10-2010, 10:46 PM
#5804
I'm new to the forum and wanted to get some help on finding where the speed sensor is located. I have a 92 nissan maxima se with the ve30de. Also I just brought 3 brand new ignition coils for the left side because they were cracked. So with doing so I thought it would get rid of the stalling when I step on it. Its like the car is jerking until I take my foot off the gas then it goes away. I just want to know why I am getting this problem. Oh yeah the right side coils are brand new too. I would greatly appreciate all the help I can get.
From my past experience with cars, a few things to check would be the fuel pump/filter. If those are not clean/running properly, they can cause such symptoms. Also, check your vacuum lines. cars can be quirky! test your plug wires to make sure they are not cracked or damaged. a bit of a long shot, but your timing could also be off.
my $0.02
Adam
09-11-2010, 02:00 AM
#5806
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia
Posts: 8
Started with my '93 Maxima
running rough, this developed to a hard to start condition and now can only start and run at idle, any touch of the accelerator will cause a stall. Noticed the engine warning light on so decided to check the ECM to try and decypher the codes to locate the problem.
When I turn the screw clockwise and then switch on ignition, instead of getting a series of flashes etc. I get a constant red led and the green led flashes about 4 or 5 times very rapidly and goes off? no more flashes at all?
car has only done about 100,000klms and has been looked after like a baby.
Any ideas please?
Thanks
Alex White
running rough, this developed to a hard to start condition and now can only start and run at idle, any touch of the accelerator will cause a stall. Noticed the engine warning light on so decided to check the ECM to try and decypher the codes to locate the problem.When I turn the screw clockwise and then switch on ignition, instead of getting a series of flashes etc. I get a constant red led and the green led flashes about 4 or 5 times very rapidly and goes off? no more flashes at all?
car has only done about 100,000klms and has been looked after like a baby.
Any ideas please?
Thanks
Alex White
09-11-2010, 10:45 AM
#5807
VE are supposed to have premium while apparently VG are okay with regular but IMO premium makes a difference in a VG
09-11-2010, 01:49 PM
#5808
Realistically, Most any engine can benefit from premium fuel one way or another. 2 of the biggest are going to be, 1- the increase of fuel economy. The higher the octane, the more efficient your car will run. 2- less additives. In most lower grade fuels, they have up to 10% ethanol. While this may make it a cleaner burning fuel as they say, it essentially dilutes the gas and makes the engine work harder in a sense. It is like asking what is better for you, McDonalds or fruits and veggies.
09-11-2010, 02:37 PM
#5809
Realistically, Most any engine can benefit from premium fuel one way or another. 2 of the biggest are going to be, 1- the increase of fuel economy. The higher the octane, the more efficient your car will run. 2- less additives. In most lower grade fuels, they have up to 10% ethanol. While this may make it a cleaner burning fuel as they say, it essentially dilutes the gas and makes the engine work harder in a sense. It is like asking what is better for you, McDonalds or fruits and veggies.
i always use premium myself, but theres always the joo's on here that say "i work hard enough i shouldnt have to pay for premium" when its doesnt even cost much more for premium
09-11-2010, 07:01 PM
#5811
Intrax are apparently the only springs lower than Ksports
Eibachs are less of a drop but ive heard theyre good
09-11-2010, 09:36 PM
#5814
yeah, double check the procedure to pull codes:
http://forums.maxima.org/4871521-post5.html
if it still acts up, I would suggest your ecu is bad. look for coolant and air conditioner condensation leaks, if it got wet, it could easily toast one.
neither ecu or coolant/ac leaks are common, but they do happen.
(it can also go bad on it's own, with no leaks. but check first, make sure it's not leaking, or you may be doing it again.)
http://forums.maxima.org/4871521-post5.html
if it still acts up, I would suggest your ecu is bad. look for coolant and air conditioner condensation leaks, if it got wet, it could easily toast one.
neither ecu or coolant/ac leaks are common, but they do happen.
(it can also go bad on it's own, with no leaks. but check first, make sure it's not leaking, or you may be doing it again.)
09-12-2010, 01:25 AM
#5815
Can anyone recommend a good set of exhaust manifold bolts that are not fron the dealer? I have herd that the ones for a 300z tt are good. also, from where wold you recommend getting them from?
09-12-2010, 01:50 AM
#5816
the maxima/300z exhaust mani bolts are the same...I highly recommend you get them from the dealership...
09-12-2010, 03:19 AM
#5817
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Pretoria - South Africa
Posts: 1,205
Realistically, Most any engine can benefit from premium fuel one way or another. 2 of the biggest are going to be, 1- the increase of fuel economy. The higher the octane, the more efficient your car will run. 2- less additives. In most lower grade fuels, they have up to 10% ethanol. While this may make it a cleaner burning fuel as they say, it essentially dilutes the gas and makes the engine work harder in a sense. It is like asking what is better for you, McDonalds or fruits and veggies.
Go study the 3rd gen's ECU ignition and mixture mapping strategies before you make arbitrary observations like this.
Octane rating is an indication of the fuel's resistance to detonation or effectively self ignition when under extreme pressures - the octane rating has absolutely nothing to do with fuel energy content.
09-12-2010, 02:43 PM
#5818
The reason i would rather not get them from the dealer is because they are asking $8 per bolt, then the nuts and washers are separate from that. This is what the dealer told me. i am just trying to find out if there is a less expensive source for them. I also read somewhere on this site that the studs for the 300z are stronger.
09-12-2010, 05:40 PM
#5819
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 20
From my past experience with cars, a few things to check would be the fuel pump/filter. If those are not clean/running properly, they can cause such symptoms. Also, check your vacuum lines. cars can be quirky! test your plug wires to make sure they are not cracked or damaged. a bit of a long shot, but your timing could also be off.
my $0.02
Adam
my $0.02
Adam
09-12-2010, 06:23 PM
#5820
Well thanks for the advice. I don't think its the fuel pump because I hear that every time I cut my car on. I'm going to have the timing checked out tomorrow since I put so many new parts on. I think its time to change the filter so I will be buying one of those soon. Where are these vacuum lines located at if you don't mind me asking. I'm kinda new to fixing my own car. Once again thanks for the advice. It was well needed.
http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...ing-video.html
09-12-2010, 08:14 PM
#5821
The reason i would rather not get them from the dealer is because they are asking $8 per bolt, then the nuts and washers are separate from that. This is what the dealer told me. i am just trying to find out if there is a less expensive source for them. I also read somewhere on this site that the studs for the 300z are stronger.
Plus it's better you get them from the dealer and do the job once than just gambling on the quality of the bolts and very soon find out later that they're not.
09-12-2010, 08:22 PM
#5822
Courtesy Nissan have the studs for $2.61 (VE engine) and $3.76 (VG engine). And as Greeny has mentioned above, the Maxima manifold studs have been replaced with the 300Z studs so you'll get those when ordering them.
Plus it's better you get them from the dealer and do the job once than just gambling on the quality of the bolts and very soon find out later that they're not.
Plus it's better you get them from the dealer and do the job once than just gambling on the quality of the bolts and very soon find out later that they're not.
Thank you again!
Adam
09-12-2010, 08:56 PM
#5823
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 20
in this video, it shows you where a good bulk of them are. and either way, it is a good video to watch. Goes over some of the basics with these cars.
http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...ing-video.html
http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...ing-video.html
09-13-2010, 09:32 AM
#5825
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 25
Ok so im trying to reset my keyless entry code on my 1990 maxy. i pulled off the dash and got the codes from the security box. now im not sure which one is the reset code i know one of them is. and im also not sure how to put it in on the door. FYI i dont know the old code. the only button i currently use is the lock button, all others are obsolete for me. also i dont know how to even punch in the new code after i reset it 
any info would be helpfull thanks.
any info would be helpfull thanks.
09-13-2010, 09:47 AM
#5826
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 25
so i found somthing it said the number that starts with the s is the reset code. i put it in and tried to implement my own. now i am at a complete lost and cant find anything on how to do it. no idea how to put in the new code and make it unlock my door/trunk/anything no idea please help Thank you
09-13-2010, 07:11 PM
#5827
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 1
I have a 1993 Nissan Maxima and I am trying to find a used ECU computer for it. New they go for $800.00 and Im not trying to spend that much on it. Does anyone know a place that I can find a used one? I just recently went to the Pick-n-pull and got a computer out of another maxima but the numbers on the computer didnt match the original computer. the one I found had number PA A18-B24 EB5 and it wouldnt start my car...The computer number that was in my car is EC A18-B81 ED7 does the number have to match exactly or can I put a different one in and it still work?
09-15-2010, 07:21 PM
#5828
Interior lights
Can someone please help me? I bought and replaced the lights that go in the acc and now none of the interior switches work. The speedo, display on acc, and radio all work, but the lights in switches are dead. The switches still light up like they are working, just not displaying any light. I checked most interior fuses and all tailllights and brakes are working. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Thanks
09-18-2010, 03:14 PM
#5831
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 13
Axle Nut 3rd Gen ('93) Maxima SE
FYI
Axle Nut 3rd Gen ('93) Maxima SE
The Front Axle nut requires a 36MM socket.
The Rear Axle nut requires a 30MM socket.
It took me less than 30 mins to replace the rear hub assembly - in fact it took me longer to run to Sears and buy the correct socket for the job! No more humming, smooth as silk to 100mph (ran out of room).
Now, to tackle that fan belt noise...
Axle Nut 3rd Gen ('93) Maxima SE
The Front Axle nut requires a 36MM socket.
The Rear Axle nut requires a 30MM socket.
It took me less than 30 mins to replace the rear hub assembly - in fact it took me longer to run to Sears and buy the correct socket for the job! No more humming, smooth as silk to 100mph (ran out of room).
Now, to tackle that fan belt noise...
09-18-2010, 11:09 PM
#5832
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 9
k guy need some help
my car wont start when its hot
it did this before and i got a brand new dizzy for it it fixed the problem
its been about three months now and the same thing is going it runs like crap missfires but runs as soon as i shut it off it wont start all i can smell is gas like there is no spark wait until it cools down then it starts
u think its the dizzy or the cool or what help
my car wont start when its hot
it did this before and i got a brand new dizzy for it it fixed the problem
its been about three months now and the same thing is going it runs like crap missfires but runs as soon as i shut it off it wont start all i can smell is gas like there is no spark wait until it cools down then it starts
u think its the dizzy or the cool or what help
09-20-2010, 06:34 AM
#5833
k guy need some help
my car wont start when its hot
it did this before and i got a brand new dizzy for it it fixed the problem
its been about three months now and the same thing is going it runs like crap missfires but runs as soon as i shut it off it wont start all i can smell is gas like there is no spark wait until it cools down then it starts
u think its the dizzy or the cool or what help
my car wont start when its hot
it did this before and i got a brand new dizzy for it it fixed the problem
its been about three months now and the same thing is going it runs like crap missfires but runs as soon as i shut it off it wont start all i can smell is gas like there is no spark wait until it cools down then it starts
u think its the dizzy or the cool or what help
Have you had your battery tested?
09-20-2010, 10:29 AM
#5834
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Pleasanton, CA
Posts: 22
Noob questions
Hi:
I wanted to put on a different 3rd brake light and removed the OEM brackets etc on a GXE. Can the OEM harness with one red and one black wire be used to connect to a universal 3rd brake light: http://www.spoilerlights.com/servlet...ped-LED/Detail Or will the the OEM harness say connect to any other aftermarket LED 3rd brake lights for say, a Ford 150? Or I could I just solder the wires to another 3rd brake light after cutting it from the harness?
As you can tell, I don't know much about electronics. I thought about getting a multimeter to check exactly what voltage? the harness is generating -- then look for a compatible LED strip or aftermarket LED 3rd brake light -- but I am not sure it that is the correct method.
Also, my hood doesn't spring up like it used to when pulling the latch from the inside. Is this just a matter of getting a new hood latch?
I wanted to put on a different 3rd brake light and removed the OEM brackets etc on a GXE. Can the OEM harness with one red and one black wire be used to connect to a universal 3rd brake light: http://www.spoilerlights.com/servlet...ped-LED/Detail Or will the the OEM harness say connect to any other aftermarket LED 3rd brake lights for say, a Ford 150? Or I could I just solder the wires to another 3rd brake light after cutting it from the harness?
As you can tell, I don't know much about electronics. I thought about getting a multimeter to check exactly what voltage? the harness is generating -- then look for a compatible LED strip or aftermarket LED 3rd brake light -- but I am not sure it that is the correct method.
Also, my hood doesn't spring up like it used to when pulling the latch from the inside. Is this just a matter of getting a new hood latch?
09-20-2010, 11:21 AM
#5835
Hi:
I wanted to put on a different 3rd brake light and removed the OEM brackets etc on a GXE. Can the OEM harness with one red and one black wire be used to connect to a universal 3rd brake light: http://www.spoilerlights.com/servlet...ped-LED/Detail Or will the the OEM harness say connect to any other aftermarket LED 3rd brake lights for say, a Ford 150? Or I could I just solder the wires to another 3rd brake light after cutting it from the harness?
As you can tell, I don't know much about electronics. I thought about getting a multimeter to check exactly what voltage? the harness is generating -- then look for a compatible LED strip or aftermarket LED 3rd brake light -- but I am not sure it that is the correct method.
Also, my hood doesn't spring up like it used to when pulling the latch from the inside. Is this just a matter of getting a new hood latch?
I wanted to put on a different 3rd brake light and removed the OEM brackets etc on a GXE. Can the OEM harness with one red and one black wire be used to connect to a universal 3rd brake light: http://www.spoilerlights.com/servlet...ped-LED/Detail Or will the the OEM harness say connect to any other aftermarket LED 3rd brake lights for say, a Ford 150? Or I could I just solder the wires to another 3rd brake light after cutting it from the harness?
As you can tell, I don't know much about electronics. I thought about getting a multimeter to check exactly what voltage? the harness is generating -- then look for a compatible LED strip or aftermarket LED 3rd brake light -- but I am not sure it that is the correct method.
Also, my hood doesn't spring up like it used to when pulling the latch from the inside. Is this just a matter of getting a new hood latch?
as to the hood latch; is it just not popping up, or is it barely popping? I would recommend re-lubing the latch (wd-40, for example), and working it a bit, see if it rejuvenates it. if not, it may be time for a new cable.
09-21-2010, 09:42 PM
#5838
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 11
I have found that the wd-40 is the best fix. I had the same problem and it fixed it right away. I would also grease it a little so it doesnt get stuck again, atleast thats what i did and its still working for me.
yeah, the brake light shoudl be a matter of just wiring in whatever light you want. not sure how either of the lamps you have posted about would look, but meh.
as to the hood latch; is it just not popping up, or is it barely popping? I would recommend re-lubing the latch (wd-40, for example), and working it a bit, see if it rejuvenates it. if not, it may be time for a new cable.
as to the hood latch; is it just not popping up, or is it barely popping? I would recommend re-lubing the latch (wd-40, for example), and working it a bit, see if it rejuvenates it. if not, it may be time for a new cable.
09-22-2010, 03:31 AM
#5839
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 1
Hey all!
I have a 93 Maxima and I can't seem to figure out why the LEDs on my climate control and my Bose Audio are both out. Everything else is fine it is just those two. The stereo I will be replacing soon but I would love to figure out how to be able to have a display on my climate control. Unfortunately it was that way when I bought it.
Thanks in advance.
I have a 93 Maxima and I can't seem to figure out why the LEDs on my climate control and my Bose Audio are both out. Everything else is fine it is just those two. The stereo I will be replacing soon but I would love to figure out how to be able to have a display on my climate control. Unfortunately it was that way when I bought it.
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by Genrouzero; 09-22-2010 at 03:42 AM.
09-22-2010, 06:52 PM
#5840
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Tacoma,WA
Posts: 11
i'm new to this forum but am very hopeful you guys have what it takes to assist me. i have a 1992 GXE maxima i just got a couple weeks ago. the previous owner had a kill switch installed to bypass a relay switch. or to actuate a relay switch. anyway, the car drains the battery whenever i leave the kill switch on and the kill switch is installed on the positive battery side so when i use the switch most of my electrical units malfunction(tachometer is erratic, the transmission is stuck in third gear, and the security light flashes. sometimes the fuel pump needs twenty minutes to get warmed up.) i have been delighted to find a wire schematic for my relay box, but my issue is that i still havent found a diagram that explains how to return the wires back to factory mode, then i would be able to find the short. there is this fat gauge WHITE wire that the kill switch was attached to. i followed the WHITE wire underneath the relay box(front of engine) and see that someone had electrical taped a small grn/blk wire right into the side of the WHITE wire and into the bottom of a relay switch. i believe the relay switch is the starter relay. its the second gray one from the left...ANYONE WITH A PIC OF THEIR FACTORY WIRES would be appreciated. or just let me know what this little wire plugged into the WHITE wire is doing. i believe the fat gauge wire is always "hot" and the drained battery is coming from the attachment. i'm afraid to delete the kill switch because when friend and i lead the WHITE wire straight to the smaller gauge battery wire, the smaller wire started to smoke!!! help me out electrical guys. much love and respect.