dinosmash

is there a source for these still available?i want poly ones or inserts if possible.im aware that i can fill mine with poly adheasive.but a new pair would be nice.ive found them for 95-99 but none for the 93 se. how about poly control arm bushings.while im at it.

SEninedeuce

sorry about that. Fixed.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pTKng3-Kaig


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VuG2kpCeha0

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

Rear Parallel links: Energy Suspension 7.3117
front bushings: Energy Suspension 7.3111 (requires trimming)
you will want to add a "g" for black, or "r" for red to the end of the part number.

motor mounts: haven't seen/heard of any. if you do, lemme know.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

second video is your power steering. check the fluid level. if it's full (and your engine isn't destroyed, don't know what the first is, at least, not gonna guess), then your power steering pump is gone. may be time for a replacement.

SEninedeuce

Thanks for the tips. As long as there's no engine misfiring you guys hear, that's good. That was my assumption as well.

D@$uPeRc[-]@RgER

Hi everyone, i just bought a '93 maxima se auto about 5 weeks ago and it had been working fine until one day its mysteriously wouldn't rev past 3000rpm...or so i think because the tach doesn't work!(it happens at about 25mph in 1st gear). And the moment this fake rev limiter would appear my car would just stall and wouldn't start even though the starter was turning the motor over. Then when i would unplug the fuel pump relay and plug it back up the problem would be gone for a couple of days until it would reappear again!

So i replaced the relay and the car ran fine for about 10 days until it started acting up on me again. So i went through the forum and decided to check my coil packs and sure enough they were cracked beyond belief. so i sealed them up with hi-temp red RTV silicone sealant and the car was running fine until it started doing the same shananigans again!!

Now i also read that the fake rev limiter can come on when the ECU goes into fail-safe because of the MAF. So i checked the ECU for codes and it showed code#55(suprise suprise!). another thing is that throughout the whole 1600miles i've driven it NEVER has the check engine light gone off! And if all of this wasn't weird enough.... the fake rev limiter keeps on shifting around! which further shows that its not the ECU going into fail safe. i'm not precisely sure at what the rpm range is but in 1st gear it can be anywhere from 15mph to 30mph. Once in onverdrive the car wouldn't go over 55mph on the highway! all these symptoms just dont add up in my opinion!

When the car isn't acting up though it flies! Needless to say its VERY frustrating. The only thing i changed so far is the fuel filter which was so dirty that black soot was coming out of it when i took it off and it looked like the original filter too lol! The air filter is also new and i haven't changed the spark plugs yet. the car also has a huge exhaust leak at the flex joint. The previous owner used to use regular gas in it so when i got it off his hands it was running like crap and would stall everytime! the moment i put in premium it stopped acting up for a while. Sorry for the long a** first post! I'm just real frustrated about none of the symptoms making sense at all! any suggestions?

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Replace the mass air flow sensor, preferably with a good used one to prevent your repair costs from getting too high..

D@$uPeRc[-]@RgER

i guess i can try that. but why would the problem go away the moment i unplug and replug the fuel pump relay? cuz everything does point to the MAF besides the relay issue.....

alex.wlkr

Just curious, I have been searching the stickies and posts about the great stereo replacement issue, seems straight forward... New H/U, speakers, get rid of bose altogether. I understand the OHM difference (thats what stated my search, new Pioneer 6x9's and no volume!? WTF?)
Anyway what I haven't found is this: Has anyone considered replaceing the stock speaker wires? They are a very small gauge which with the seperate amps and low resistance speakers makes sense. Now we introduce at least twice if not 4 times the resistance (my bose speakers say and test out at 2 OHMS) with the same guage wire. Basic electronics, increased load/resistance increased wire size. Too small a wire creates more resistance=heat=equals more resistance.
Or maybe as usual I don't know enough and my "Gotta do it right perfectionism" is taking over. Anybody got input?

codyl1992

Hey everyone,
I recently bought my first car, it happens to be a 1993 Maxima. It seems great so far, and runs very well. The only issue I have had with it is that in order to start it cold (when it hasn't run for a few hours, not cold weather), I have to push the gas pedal a little, sometimes pump it. It has always been this way, for the couple months I have owned the car.
This puzzles me, because its a fuel injected car and you shouldn't have to press the gas to get it to start.
The engine has never stalled, not even when accelerating under almost full throttle.
I have been told that the injectors might need to be cleaned with some lucas injector cleaner or something.

If this has anything to do with it, there is also a very slight gassy smell only outside the car when the engine is running. I especially notice this when i get out of the car after turning it off.

Any ideas?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

I have had no problems with my stock speaker wire. others run new wire. your choice.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Check your ecu for any trouble codes..
How to--> http://forums.maxima.org/4873104-post18.html

codyl1992

I may be wrong, but since the check engine light doesn't come on for me, does that mean that an error code is not stored. I'm on vacation right now so i don't have access to the car, i was just trying to think of something that could fix it.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

no, it could have stored a trouble code without illuminating the cel.

codyl1992

I'll keep that in mind when I get back, I'll see if I can get it to work. Is there anything else you think I could try, or anything that you know of that could make this problem occur?

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

first things first mang check the codes first..

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

many have ran new wire for the speakers as a larger gauge is more efficient in sound reproduction. I did not, I used the stock skinny wires and it sounded fine to me.

dinosmash

while we are on stereos. my car came with a pioneer sound system.it had power but no sound.i had an old blaupankt that i pulled from my bimmer before junking it.i thought the pioneer head unit was bad but after replaceing it with another head unit it still had no sound.i checked both the bose and audio fuses and they were good. i dont know but i imagine the bose control unit is bad.id like to bypass it.where is it?what is the best way to go about it?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

all the bose stuff is all in the head unit, and the amps (located at each speaker). may wanna make sure you have speakers, and they are hooked up (I know they weren't when I got my car...)

dinosmash

thanks man ill check that out in the am

alex.wlkr

Thanx for the feedback, will leave stock wires in until/unless problems arise. Only pushing 50 watts anyway.
Take it easy on Dinosmash.....

jvc1986

iTrader: (2)

I have to change the "Spindle-Knuckle" (40015) on my '90 Maxima because the lower bolt that holds the suspension is impossible to get out

I have done a good portion of repair work, but never this thing, is it just to loosen the center bolt, and the ball joint then slide it off the axle, or do I have to take out all the bearings etc (40232-38514-40210 etc in pic)?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

you mean the ball joint nut is hard to get to?

yeah, it's pretty much just unbolt the axle, unbolt the ball joint,and unbolt the strut (as well as unbolt the brake cylinder, unhook the abs sensor (if you have one), and unbolt it, as well)

the bearings, as well as the wheel hub are pressed in, so they will stay in there.

jvc1986

iTrader: (2)

Since I got Auto trans. the wheels dont lock when I try to unscrew the center bolt (that holds the knuckle spindle on the axle).
Any tip on how to get it off, I'm afraid that if I put it in P and try to unscrew it that I will break the P - pin thing.

How hard is it usally to unscrew it?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

dude, it holds a car that weighs more than the amount of force it will take to break the nut. feel free to throw it in park.
also, if you break it with the car on the ground (tire on the hub), then jack it up and proceed to disassemble, it's alot easier.

4rsssfed

Hello, I recently purchased a 1994 nissan maxima GXE from somone local and was wondering if I got a good deal. I am not new to automotive performance but I am new to turbo motors as well as imports. I've only built supercharged motors before.

Here is a list of mods and little information about the vehicle.

Engine -
1994 vg30dett 300zx twin turbo W series block good for 400 +hp
Garret t3/t4 turbo 60 trim currently set a 10 psi
Huge front mount intercooler with 2.75 pipe
18 psi spring bov
port and polished heads port matched to intake
one of a kind intake for max flow and I/C pipe routing
390cc tt injectors on custom rail
Walboro 255 fuel pump
Aeromotive 100 fuel pressure reg.
3" exhaust /cat delete
List of new parts in engine bay- ngk plugs, 8mm plug wires, cap, rotor, all belts including timing belt, fuel filter, oil filter, seals(front, rear,both cams and injectors),
gaskets (heads, valve cover, intake, throttle body, exhaust and timing cover).
Drivetrain -
1990 SE 5spd Trans
Short throw shifter
dxd stage 3 six puck clutch
lightened fidanza flywheel
new master and slave cylinder
new trans mounts
SE rear wheel disc swap( has four wheel disc brakes now)
new rear brake lines and new pads all around
new 18" rims and new tires
new springs and monroe shocks = a 2" drop
Body-
Black body is decent with no rust
SE black interior swap
new head liner
4 point harnesses
white faced guages
trunk mounted battery
The bad-
Airconditioning and cruise control was deleted for turbo setup
theres no radio or speakers in the car
rear passenger window doesn't roll down
Car runs flawlessly and pulls very hard through all gears and should be a little over 300hp. With new fuel managment motor will push 400 + hp easily.


Above is what was listed in the add, he also added a 3" Apexi catless exhaust after he posted that. I bought it for $3500

memphisballer

iTrader: (7)

Dude,just parts alone and time into the car is more than $3500. Hell of a deal IMO.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

wanna try that again? that's a VG30ET, not a VG30DETT. either you're trying to impress us despite the fact that we know better...... or you were lied to by the person that sold you the car but you didn't know it at the time. E heads won't fit on a DE block... even if they did, the VGE block is good for well more than 400HP anyhow so there would be no point in using a DE block.

also w/o jacking up the fuel pressure up, you might find that you need larger injectors to get over 400HP with the AFR you need to run under boost.

oh and have fun with those monroe struts on a 2" drop........ that is, if your handling hasn't wrapped you around a tree before you get home to read this; basically, monroe struts are as good as dead on stock springs... a 2" drop is suicide on monroes (and KYBs). my struts are dead in the rear, and it causes me to lift my inside front tire under hard cornering because it squats down so far in the rear. get Konis so your car won't kill you (considering how fast you'll be able to go with that much HP)

4rsssfed

He may have lied to me or he himself doesnt know what he's talking about, but I'll honestly tell you I have no idea. I had a 1991 nissan sentra se-r but it was just a daily driver. I never even cared to do anything to the motor. Everything is already done on this motor, I just wanted some honest opinions about what I have.

I dont plan on modding the car further, and I think I may get rid of the rims that are on it, those combined with the monroe struts are very rough. Long term I will probably replace the struts with either stock or koni but I plan on going back to stock ride heighth.

Thanks for your info guys, I thought it was a good deal, but like I said I dont know anything about nissan motors so I wanted to double check

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

stock struts will work fine on stock ride height (putting smaller wheels w/ taller-aspect tires, like 225-55-16 or something will also add comfort to the car). basically... monroe ALWAYS sycks. KYB is OK for stock ride height. Tokico is better for stock height and good for moderate drops (~1.5" or less). koni is the best no matter what.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

Monroe does not always suck.
We have them on most of my current cars and they work just fine on a stock vehicle being treated as such. If you want to beat on a car then you need to spend money, same thing with any other part of the car that is constantly being beat on by variable forces.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

how about their longevity vs KYBs or Tokicos on a stock maxima driven as such? granted 90% of the regulars on this site drive a like there's a small fire under their **** alot of the time... (and some some like there's a burning inferno under their **** ) but some people on here just drive like regular old people

jvc1986

iTrader: (2)

Engines tend to loose power over time, what parts can one clean/change to regain the original 170 HP?


I did see one show of Top Gear where a 5-7 year old car had lost around 50 HP, so I assume the 19 year old maxima may have lost some too..

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Read this whole thread--> http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...rbo-build.html

look familiar?--> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ak4vn-qqKc

dinosmash

i was going to get my inspection in the am.i just got all my lights working.out of the blue my drivers front window wont go up or down.wtf.i searched and most say its the motor regulator assembly. now i dont care if my rear windows ever work and im low on cash.can i take the reg motor assembly from one of the rear windows and use it in the drivers front?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

nope, doesn't work like that.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

So it went from a charcoal body to a champagne body back to a charcoal body?

rewsintegra

noob question.

i have a 1990 5 spd. and the bearings inside the trans are failing and its making a bunch of noise. what manual trans can i replace it with? what years and models. and will one from a dohc motor work?

burhan92SE

yes if u have 90 5sp then its SOHC motor and yes u can replace manual tranny from the DOHC motor but then u will need DOHC motor axle and hubs...

jvc1986

iTrader: (2)

When I drive over speed bumps 40 km/h or more I hear a strange sound from the front.
And the more weight I have on lesser speed is needed to hear this sound.

I thought maybe the ball joint, (blue circle).


Or maybe some of you know what this can be?
I do have a parts car I can try to exchange parts from.