elusivemax93

if you take the negative cable off and the car dies that means your alternator isnt doing the job. Lol take your alternator off and have a parts store test it.

birddog002

[quote=BenStoked;7919800]only thing regarding pressure would be the pressure regulator, it's manual not electric. you might wanna make sure the rotor is spinning (take the cap off, have somebody watch it while cranking)

Ok, I've replaced the ignition coil and ignition transformer. Rotor turns when key is turned, I have primary voltage to the rotor but no secondary (for spark). I have voltage coming into the ignition coil and the ignition transformer. I checked for secondary spark (ignition) according to the book (lt. green wire connected to light tester connected to + battery terminal + key turn = no intermittent light). My only option now is the ignition resister/condenser which I have power to and 2.2k Ohms Resistance. No way to check the capacitor side of it, do these normally go bad? Is there any other reason why PCM wouldn't be sending a spark to the plugs? Can the PCM itself be bad?

got_sixth

[quote=birddog002;7949248]u might have a broken timing belt.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

it's possible. have you checked for codes? a bad ecu will not show any lights, or they will stay solid when they should change.

Logan_Gibson

iTrader: (2)

so looking to get some smaller tires for my stock se wheels. I am lowering the car in a few days.
i have 205/65-15 what would be a good tire thats a bit smaller?

Maxkiller

Sounds like 6 bad injectors or wrong part injectors.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

how far are you dropping it, that you need smaller tires? or why do you think you need smaller tires?
if you are concerned about rubbing something, you are dropping way too far to be driving it, anyway, esp. on stock wheels.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

ive got 205/65/15 on stock wheels for winter and a 2"/2.2" drop, rears are lightly tucked and fronts are fairly tucked

Logan_Gibson

iTrader: (2)

I am dropping it 2in, I just was going to go with a tire with a smaller sidewall so the tires didn't look as huge.

elusivemax93

Lmfao your speedometer will be off and you could risk damaging suspension. If you want smaller side walls get a size or two bigger rim so that tire wall reduces.

BMAX92GXE

iTrader: (1)

hey guys... thinking about putting seats from a 99 max in my 92 max... is it possible/easy? or does it come with a lot of side work?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

POSSIBLE? of course
Easy? not really
worthwhile? not at all

3rd gen has much better seats than the 4th gen and they mount differently as well.

gaetano024

I am trying to locate the paint code for my 2007 Maxima. I have been told its on the firewall. Which it was for my 2002, but not my 2007. Any ideas?

BMAX92GXE

iTrader: (1)

so if i was going from a tan fabric interior from the 3rd gen to the black leather 4th gen interior... it would be worse? or should i just get a custom leather kit on the interior?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

yes, and if you got money to burn, yes.

BMAX92GXE

iTrader: (1)

most likely then... when i can i will do the leather conversion.. thanks

BMAX92GXE

iTrader: (1)

the other thing im doing is changing my tan interior to a black interior... so i have to take care of all of the other things... no? seat belts... etc..

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

try the 7th gen section, this is the 3rd gen section

Pockittin

I would check the motor mounts. Bad mounts could cause movement of the engine/Trans assy to make the shifting rod going into the trans out of range to engage the gear.

I had a similar problen with a 86 Honda Prelude and 5th gear. I will assure you that a motor mount is a lot cheaper than a trans tear down. have someone watch the engine for movement while slightly reving the engine in gear with the brakes on.

Don't try to break anything, just enough to see if the engine is moving up/down. You could do it alone by jacking the engine at the front/back and sides to check for abnormal motion.

Good Luck.

junito1

I have a 91 maxima se vg30e 5 speed. I have had to change a couple injectors in the last year. They have gone out 1 by 1 and are really easy to point out which is bad. I have even replaced 1 with a sentra injector out of ga16de enignes. Has worked perfectly for months. SO i fix my car 90% of the time. THis time i am LOST!!! and need help.

BEfore it happened. I was really low on gas and filled up at some BP/amaco i never fill up at. Drove to my buddies house 4 miles down the road. CAr is perfect as usual. Hung out for about 2-3 hrs. I go to leave. Crank the car.. IT cranked WIld rought idle up and down and as low as 300 rpms and up to about 650. ALmost shutting off as it struggle to hold idle.. and sometimes drops really low slmost stalls then bounces back...

SYMTOMS::

GArbage idle almost dies. really low.. and sometimes fixes itself and idles like it should. But at this point its 95% of the time the idle is crap. Freereving under 3000 it doesnt clear up and wont rev... but most of the time when you can work the pedal to make it above 3000 it will clear up and rev and sound normal.. but as soon as you let it idle it goes bak to its crap.



Acceleration. Well.. The thing wont go.. TO get home i had to Work the pedal to get aleast 5,000 rpms and dump/ride the clutch agressively to keep rpms up and the car stumbles hard and falls on its face.. takes several tries. but it almost seems like it runs ok when your ******* it out.. half the time.. But mainly, Not matter how much gas you give it it just keep sputtering and wont accelerate.
BY the way .. in high rpms.. 4,000 to 6,000 when it does clear it pulls hard like the normal FULL POWER is there.

MY guess is AFM or maybe the FPR. I am pretty positive it is not injectors. BEcause if it was.. ALl 6 cylinders wouldnt be firing erratically and then clear up with hight revs...

Also note. That the car will rarely run normal for about 5 minutes then goes back to being impossible to drive.In those 5 minutes; I mean the idle is good, low throttle accel is perfect.. It is just a normal car.. I dont get it..

What i have done. USed some seafoam in the tank bacause i was under the impression that i got some bad gas-damn gas station with wattered down gas. I also drove the car around best i could and wated the gas i had and put a fresh 6 gallons in there.. and the problem persist.

askboutme

Hey Guys I'm new to the forum. I've used the search tool, and I think I'm ready to ask my question. *sigh*

I have a 1994 Maxima GXE . Long story short my car is at the mechanics. He said i need a new struts since mine no longer are in service, Springs are also shot (looks like the car is lowered). I'm looking everywhere for a used pair of struts. (I'm a college kid, I'm broke as it is) The mechanic told me my car was SOHC with ABS and I'm browsing through ebay and i ran across this posting http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-93...item3a6060c10d
since this is w/o abs should i buy them and are DOHC and SOHC struts compatible with each other?

junito1

Good Q. I wasnt aware of any suspension differences.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

short answer is yes they will fit.
the proper answer is: don't buy used struts. It's a mistake I paid for until I bought some real struts. used parts are a stop-gap until you can afford the proper parts.

askboutme

Like I said I'm a college kid, Lowering springs would cost me $120 then $120 for the actual struts then 80 for mounts. $40 for Dust boots. That $360 then 222 for labor (60 for the tow, 162 for them to install) $582.00. Not to say that i recently paid 330 For a drive shaft put in not to long ago.

I understand used parts aren't that great but couldn't i use "these" used springs if i do upgrade the struts in the future? CourtesyParts wants $120 a pop for 1. http://www.courtesyparts.com/54010ma-spring-front-maxima-j30-1989-07/1989-sohc-m/t-1991-sohc-m/t-1990-sohcse-m/t-redx1-yellowx2-p-48595.html
I just don't know what to do

junito1

I agree dont buy used shocks. NEw shocks last about 30-40,000 miles.

SO take a guess at how many the used ones your buying have. can you say wasted money? Might as well ride with blown shocks like me=P


OH. and the problem to my Huge sputtering issues was the MAF.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

I really do need to ask, though, how many miles are on your maxima? weak springs don't really seem to be a problem on our cars. I pulled the original springs off of the front of my car, and at 245k miles, just as tall as oem. I am wondering if you have lowering springs on stock struts (or worse, new gabriel/monroe). Buying used shocks, you don't know how much longer they'll last, the quality of the parts, what they've been through...

KYB shocks (the only shocks worth buying, anymore) are only $220 shipped on fleabay, right now. $100 may be alot atm, but it's cheaper than doing it again in 6 months.
If you could do the work yourself, I may be saying something different (likely, I wouldn't, but it's possible). you are suggesting you can't, and are willing to pay someone else lots of money (more than the parts) to fix it.

askboutme

The Car has 144,xxx miles on it. It's my first car. I just needed it to get me from point A to point B. It's like all I've been doing to this car is fixing it. Hopefully after a month I'll have some money left over from work to buy new struts, and coils. Thanks for your input i appreciate it.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

my OEM GXE springs had over 420,000km on them before i got lowering springs on and they were good, i dont think springs can even go bad

but yeah just get some KYB GR2, you can snag a set for a decent price on Ebay

got_sixth

i have an exhaust leak from my header. looks like one of the bolt fell out. so i took off the header and theres two broken studs on the same manifold port. now i have to drill and extract the stud. but theres not enough room. is there another solution?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

weld a nut to the broken stud, but that's not much easier.
Unfortunately, it is as you see it. a pita.

also, broken studs are usually from bad motor mounts, may want to check those if you haven't already.

haynrasta

I have a 92 maxima that is having trouble keeping a steady idle in reverse an drive. I jus gave it a minor tune up (oil, filter, spark plugs, trans fluid) two of the spark plugs had little oil in it (3 & 5 to be exact) noticed it coming from valve cover, so i fixed it. Now everytime when I put the car in reverse or drive the rpms drop really low an sometimes dies out.. sounds like a stick shift when come to a stop an dies out.. wats funny is it idles fine in park or neutral. Someone told me that 1 or 2 of my cylinders are misfiring... wat u think??

Maxkiller

I think a. Check your spark by removing one plug at a time if it makes no difference on one cylinder that one is a problem,
B. Recheck all the work you did
C. Go and read the hundreds of posts throughout the forum about injector issues.

rewar

I have what is one of the weirdest problems, a stuck door. I know exactly what the problem is. There's a little c shaped deal that hooks onto the frame, this is what keeps the door shut(not locked unlocked). Pulling the handle releases it, however my problem is that mines lost a little spring or something and it's now stuck in the close position. I managed to remove the panel with minimal damage and I've tried to get to it, the other problem is that it seems to be housed in it's own little container. No getting to it from inside the door. It's a mechanical part it's not the locking mechanism or linkages those seem fine. The only way to get to it would be from where the door meets the frame, friggin impossible.

Quick recap there's a hook bolted to the frame and if you look at your door there's this little C shaped deal that hooks on to it. When closed it turns into an upside down U. Seems it's spring loaded so when you pull the handle it releases it back to C position. Since the spring seems gone, when you open my door by latch nothing happens. This is not a lock door problem but a closed door that wont open. Is there a tool that may work in turning this little hook back to open position?

Note: When the problem first started the door would not stay closed I was gonna rope it shut till I figured out how to fix the problem, but when using the locking mechanism it somehow inadvertently switched the hook to the closed position. While messing with the working door I confirmed that it is indeed a spring that's missing. Pulling on the hatch releases the deal that holds it shut and lets it revert back to C or open position.

"G"Rida300

im about to swap my engine in my 93 maxima se with another stock one cause my other engine blew but i want to do more to it like a different exhaust and headers i couldnt find that many parts for this cars year to fix up the engine i was wondering if anyone knew of aftermarket parts to put on my car and i know they there is aftermarket suspension for my car but i was wondering which would be the best one to get

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

you can get full exhaust piping now, talk to Cmax. we all had a group deal and got full exhausts and IIRC a site now sells the piping we got, i THINK so not 100%. otherwise start with a Ypipe.

for suspension if you want a mild drop go with Eibach springs, if you want to go lower go with Ksport GT or Intrax

"G"Rida300

k thanks bro i apreciate it

elusivemax93

Eibachs arent offered anymore. Chrome did you forget that already.

doubleclutch92

Does anyone ever just want to slap their 3rd gen? Ugh, been with my car since 97 and just sometimes get tired of things messing up. I love my car, just not all the time.

"G"Rida300

ya sometimes but when its running right i love it

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

some places still have leftover stock though

and BTW i checked and the Mandrel Exhaust Systems site does have 3rd gen piping now, 2.25" 2.5" and 3.0"