IDFKmaxima

the smoking is probably because you grounded out a hot wire or you are introducing a ground to a close circuit. i could be wrong im not expert, figured id throw in my two cents. as for the kill switch im not really sure, why is it even there? rip the thing out then figure out your car.

wrightstuff

Put a new starter in June. Starter just spins. Took it off and took it back up to parts store, they bench tested and passed. When back home, checked wire from battery to siliniod and it is good. Still just spins. Help!!!

gderosa

My blower is not working on my 92 Maxima GXE (no auto climate control). I was driving a few weeks ago with the heat on and all of a sudden the blower stopped working and the lights to control the fan settings are no longer illuminated. Checked all the fuses and they are fine. When I slide the temp to cold/hot I hear stuff happening but as far as fan speed or settings nothing works. Any ideas? Thanks!

jkilmurray

iTrader: (1)

I've used the search about 30 times trying to find out what bulb is in the map lights. I'm trying to order leds from v-leds and don't want to order the wrong ones. If anyone has any advice on the license plate bulbs too that would be great.

eM16

1991 Maxima. Idle was really wonky and weird one day. Figured it might be the valve cover gasket. Took it to my dad, he did the VCG and the distributor (ended up needing done too).

Anyway I got the car back and it still had the problem (mind you no check engine light). I drove it 200 miles to college and drove it for a week (put about 300 miles on it).

The other day I start driving and the car feels like its puttering and the check engine light came on. No get up and go, crazy idle still.

Today I did the plugs and wires, still nothing.

O2 sensor wouldn't turn on the check-engine light right? Could it be the fuel filter?

IAC valve?

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

do a injector test, me thinks you have a bad injector(s). classic signs, puttering and sometimes a CEL as well as a rough idle

eM16

Well the guy at Schucks told me it could be the injectors and the fuel filter as well.

I put injector cleaner in it but only had time to drive it for like 2 min home.

Should I get in tomorrow and romp around on it a bit? Run like $10 thru it?

Also, could the fuel filter cause a CEL?

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

i dont think it would really be the fuel filter, a while ago during a oil change the guy said it looked like i still had the original fuel filter on my 3rd gen, it was rusty/banged up to hell and i didnt have any problems but with a new filter i noticed a difference

CEL dont really come up on 3rd gens much, not much will set CEL off lol.

injector cleaner wont really do it, test them and if it is the injectors (which i think it is) you need to replace the bad one(s). do NOT get rebuilt injectors, you cannot rebuild injectors and they will crap out right away. just get new ones

speedycat

In my limited experience, injector cleaner does not fix busted injectors. My car was running on two injectors when it was given to me and my uncle swore up and down that all they did was put some injector cleaner in and the rough running would clear right up. I dunno what he was on, but it didn't solve anything for me... from what I hear, my car had a loooong history of injector problems, so it's probably consumed a ridiculous amount of injector cleaner in its lifetime when all it needed was some new injectors... >_>

jkilmurray

iTrader: (1)

Anyone?

Gerrinteractive

Hello everyone. I'm new here. I just bought a '93 Maxima, it appears to be a GXE, digital gauges, no rear spoiler. But it comes to my attention that it has rear disc-brakes, which wasn't a standard thing for the GXE's, it also feels more powerful than the 160 HP's that those guys are reported to deliver. I also have a 2003 Maxima and love the 255 HP's it provides. Can someone tell me when did the 3rd gen Maxima GXE's started using rear disc-brakes or if I have an optional version of the GXE's?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

disk brakes were optioned.
yes, they do feel more powerful, but it's the torque "160hp" sounds weak, but compared to other 160hp cars, it's way torqier (sp?).
haven't seen a later digi-cluser, they usually seem to be earlier(89-91). mind running around, and snapping some pics?

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

i got my digital cluster from a junkyard Brougham and IIRC it was a 92 or 93, and theres a Brougham there now with the digital cluster and its a 92 i believe

and yeah VG's are tourquier than most early 90's V6

boosterboy

Hi there, I am about to be swapping injectors on my wifes VG30E Maxima, number 2 injector has 140+ ohms of resistance. The car is fitted with the Bosch style plugs on the injectors. I can get more of this style injector but have been considering fitting the later injectors from the GA16DE engines to try and avoid the same problems occurring all over again, obviously with the new plugs for the loom also.

Can anyone tell me if its worth doing or should I just get the same style as I currently have fitted?

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Can't you just pull one of the current bulbs out of one of the map lights and see?

ogkingdom

Hey bud im new to the site i have a 91 max it blew the ecm fuse 10a went in to get gas came back out would not start. It will keep blowing fuses till it has cooled all the way down then u can drive but when it warms back up same thing. the car is stock 3.0 auto please help i seen some one else same prob

futuremaximabuyer

Hi, I was wondering what things I want to be looking at when considering the purchase of a 1993 Maxima. It has the 3.0, and I think it's the GXE because the pictures show a cloth interior. It has 95,000 miles on it. Haven't seen it in person, so I need an idea of the most typical problems. I'll be looking for leaks at the gaskets, etc., but are there any really expensive repairs that I have to watch out for? I looked at the FAQ's but I wasn't really able to put the right search terms in I guess. Thanks for any input you can provide.

Mattie

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

Both GXE and SE were 3.0 and had "cloth" interiors.
repairs? injectors, window regulators. On GXE transmissions, and timing belt.

Maxkiller

One thing to look out for when you inspect the car is a repaired front end. I would be wary of someone selling a max at those k's (mainly due to personal experience) and look for things like seam sealer over welds in weird places throughout engine bay, bent radiator sup panel before buying. Chances are, if there are those repair marks and owner is very keen to sell, chassis is no longer straight.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

SE and GXE both had cloth interiors, biggest giveaway is SE had black mirrors whereas GXE have body coloured mirrors as well as digital entry, and SE had sawblade rims and fog lights/spoiler but some GXE's came with fogs and spoilers as well.

VG30E are solid, be sure to check if the timing belt has ever been changed. VG30E are interference engines so if the timing belt snaps youre going to need a new engine or a major rebuild. otherwise check for rust and any frame damage, if that checks out youre set

futuremaximabuyer

Thanks for the input guys, it'll make things a lot easier. The owner purchased it either from an auction or a car dealership that wholesales to used car dealers. It's got 95,000 on it, and he's advertised that it has no body rot, dents, or scratches. He didn't say if it was original paint, so I'll be looking for filler, overspray, rubberized undercoating, and other tell tale signs of an accident. It has the sawblade rims (didn't know that was what you called them), cloth interior as I'd mentioned, and body colored mirrors. My strong feeling is that it's a GXE. I'm looking to get this as my winter car, because my 1990 Mustang LX 5.0 convertible just ain't that good in the snow here in Massachusetts. Also, I saw an ad for some tires that a guy had on his 2003Maxima, size 235/50R17. Will they fit without any problems (backspacing, rub, bolt pattern, etc.)? The car is pretty short money, so if I had to throw a few bucks into it I'd be prepared to do that. Thanks for all the tips, you guys are very kind.

Mattie

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

235's on a 3rd gen is doable, 5th gen rims will fit but for 235's you may have to roll your fenders

funny thing is at the junkyard here the other day i found a GXE with a spoiler and sawblade rims, weird that some GXE's have them. maybe you could pay more to get them from the dealer or something

GXE's have the same rims as in my sig (which is old lol)

futuremaximabuyer

I'm going to look at it on Saturday. He offered to show it to me tonight, but unless I'm in a very well lit area, I'm not going to look at a car at night. I didn't see plates on the car, which brings me to another problem. I want to go through the gears in any car I buy, ALL of them. I bought a car once that wouldn't go into overdrive, but because I didn't get to go fast enough on the test drive to figure that out, I nearly got stuck with the car. Buyer beware in Massachusetts, private party sales do not include warranties of any kind. If the guy wasn't a sleaze who tried to get around being a car dealer by taking titles on cars he bought and not signing them (in effect making the person he purchased the car from the last owner) , I wouldn't have gotten my money back. I went to the police station with the title and told them the guy tried to sell me a car that he didn't title and now won't give me my money back. That worked well. I'll report in on Saturday. Meantime, I'm looking for all years of Maximas, all the way up to 04-05.

Logan_Gibson

iTrader: (2)

anyone know why i can not get this LED Turn signal bulb to work on my drivers side? The passenger side front and rear led's work fine but the front driver side does not work. I have tried different bulbs and it works with a regular bulb but just not with the LED.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

04 Maximas are known to have problems, IMO youre best off getting a 1st-4th gen

Gerrinteractive

As the rear disc-brakes, leather interiors were also optional. I've got those in my '93 GXE. And, the problem that I'm having is that the temperature goes up really fast. It cools down quickly but it doesn't go down to the middle of the gauge indicator (digital, by the way), then it goes up again and it repeats the process but never going down to the middle, it stays in the upper 3/4 of the gauge. Is that normal or do I have to change the temperature and vents sensors?

Gerrinteractive

the problem that I'm having is that the temperature goes up really fast. It cools down quickly but it doesn't go down to the middle of the gauge indicator (digital, by the way), then it goes up again and it repeats the process but never going down to the middle, it stays in the upper 3/4 of the gauge. Is that normal or do I have to change the temperature and vents sensors?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

ahh... see? sounds like you either need to bleed the coolant system (badly), or need a new temp sensor. I would lean towards the first, based on the symptoms.
Jack the front up (as far as it'll go), or drive it somewhere that gets the nose WAAAYYY up. with the engine running, pop the rad cap (do this with the engine cold, or you'll get burned). slowly add more, until it won't take anymore. wait, check, and add more. lather, rinse, repeat. eventually, it won't burp anymore, and you should be okay.
also, check the wiring to the sensor, it may be faulty, giving weird readings. check for loosenes, corrosion, frayed wires, etc.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

lol. and 3rd gens aren't..... you really are biased...

Gerrinteractive

Thanks to BenStoked for the tips. I'll do just that, and I'll keep you posted. So far, I've renewed the front disc brakes, some suspension parts, the timing belt, and a general tune-up. There are still some issues, like the one it's been discussed (temperature), and some strange noises coming form the alternator and one of the timing belt pulleys. I hope to solve that and I'll post the results. Thanks for the help!!

92SEftw

I'm in the process of changing out the starter on my 92 SE and am trying to remove all the air intake components, but I am having a hard time trying to disconnect the MAF connection, as simple as it sounds. I've tried the search button and google but cannot find a clear answer. How do you take this MAF connection off with out breaking it? Thanks for the help.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

there is that little metal band-thing on there. grab a small flat head (jeweler-type screw drivers are perfect), pry it off of the sides. once that's out of the way of there, it slips right off.

92SEftw

Thanks for the reply man, sounds like I just need to make sure I got the metal band off in one piece For some reason the Nissan seems a bit trickier to work on than my Mustang. When I did installed a CAI on my Mustang I took apart the air intake assembly in no time. The Maxima seems like it was meant to be worked on at the dealer, but F*** $99 an hour for labor!

92SEftw

That metal band came off really easy with the flat head. I feel dumb for not realizing you just pop it off, but I was afraid of breaking it. I'm at the stage where I removed the intake and removed the old starter. I went to install the new starter and the idiot at Schucks Auto Supply sold me the wrong starter. So I returned it and got the correct one and am in the process of hooking everything back up. I hope everything comes out okay and the car starts. This is my first time installing a starter.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

bah, it's simple. like putting Lego blocks together
first time I saw the clip, I was also nervous. showed it to my dad, and that's exactly what he did (didn't even tell me how, the bastid, just walked up and did it... ah, well, I still love 'em)

92SEftw

I got the starter installed this morning and hooked everything back up. The car still didn't start Going to try to jump the battery and see if I just have a dead battery.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Yeesh! You could have had the stock starter tested for free at any parts store

92SEftw

Good News... I hooked the car up to my Mach 1 with jumper cables and got it to start. Drove the Nissan to Shucks to have the batter tested, and it turned out it was running out of juice. The battery had a 2004 sticker on it and it was a 5 year battery, so I replaced that too. The car starts up every time now. The car was running on the original 18 year old starter anyhow so it was time for a new one.

Bottom line is that the starter and battery were crap. Replaced both and now the car starts up every time

Lambotama

i got a stereo installed on my 94 gxe, and since then none of my roof lights work, my seat belt light goes on and off whenever it wants to, and the low fuel light doesnt come on anymore. im pretty sure it was the stereo ppl who caused the problem seeing as all of those things worked before the stereo and my right front door light wasnt working either and i discovered it just had to be plugged back in (they also broke my key bc they didnt know how to take it out, and messed up my cup holder but i got them to fix that), but they refuse to fix them. any ideas on whats wrong and how to fix them??

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

check your fuses first, if the fuses check out it might be a wiring problem