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Old 11-03-2010, 04:17 PM
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Hey, I have a 92 max. I have a kenwood head unit, 6.5 speakers up front, and 6x9 in back. They arent running on any amps or anything. I now have an amplifier for my speakers, and an amplifier for this custom boxed 12' sub i purchases. I have no clue how to install the amplifier to my speakers though, and ive read the guides online, but im a COMPLETE noob to this sort of thing, and dont want to pay out 80 bucks to get it installed. Anyone have any tips or a simplified guide for noobs on how to hook it up?
Also, does anyone have a labeled diagram or picture or something of under the hood of a 3rd gen maxima?
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Old 11-04-2010, 06:55 AM
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just saying hi from UK, im looking for a small piece of plastic that goes round the ignition barrel
but i gotta get 15 posts before i can post in wanted hehe, wish me luck!
it's the black 'teardrop' shaped plastic in this pic:
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Old 11-08-2010, 09:21 AM
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So my auto 89 is shifting really hard in between gears and sorta lagging. The fluid is a dark dark almost black color, should I replace it, and if so do I need to replace the filter also? 1st time doing anything like this not sure if it is the cause but i was told it might be
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Old 11-08-2010, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Logan_Gibson
So my auto 89 is shifting really hard in between gears and sorta lagging. The fluid is a dark dark almost black color, should I replace it, and if so do I need to replace the filter also? 1st time doing anything like this not sure if it is the cause but i was told it might be
you can't easily replace the filter on your trans. but you should most definitely change the fluid with either genuine nissan or a synthetic fluid. Do not use regular dexronIII/mercon. The nissan spec calls for a low ash fluid.
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Old 11-08-2010, 08:04 PM
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transmission control cylinder

i have a 3rd gen maxima and my control cylinder is leaking tranny fluid really bad any one know where i can get the parts to fix that or purchase a new 1.
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Old 11-08-2010, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Logan_Gibson
So my auto 89 is shifting really hard in between gears and sorta lagging. The fluid is a dark dark almost black color, should I replace it, and if so do I need to replace the filter also? 1st time doing anything like this not sure if it is the cause but i was told it might be
depends on the mileage but i would just flush the fluid, try Royal Purple ATF, its good stuff (guessing its a auto)
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Old 11-08-2010, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by chrome91
depends on the mileage but i would just flush the fluid, try Royal Purple ATF, its good stuff (guessing its a auto)
Manual transmissions don't have trans filters.
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Old 11-09-2010, 08:23 AM
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1990 Maxima won't start

Started off as a good day. Got up early, drove to work, got to parking lot and shut off the car. Went to restart and the car is dead. Electronics seem fine (all the lights and bells come on as usual). Starter does nothing... no sound... no turning... zip.

Pulled the starter and took it to Autozone and they tested it. Said it was fine. Checked the battery with a multimeter. Reads 12.53 VDC. I'm not the most mechanically enclined, I usually deal with computers. Any suggestions?
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Old 11-09-2010, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Tr0nHunt3r
Started off as a good day. Got up early, drove to work, got to parking lot and shut off the car. Went to restart and the car is dead. Electronics seem fine (all the lights and bells come on as usual). Starter does nothing... no sound... no turning... zip.

Pulled the starter and took it to Autozone and they tested it. Said it was fine. Checked the battery with a multimeter. Reads 12.53 VDC. I'm not the most mechanically enclined, I usually deal with computers. Any suggestions?
blah, computers, cars... same thing, they just have different connections (I know, what I do).
batt is fine, starter is fine...
auto or manual? sounds like it may be a problem with the inhibitor/clutch interlock switch, or the inhibitor relay.
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Old 11-10-2010, 09:18 AM
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Hey everyone, I have a question. After replacing my transmission and bolting everything back up I have an annoying squeak coming from the front drivers side wheel. I made sure I torqued the wheel bearing down to spec. and the brake dust cover isn't scraping up against the wheel from what I can tell. I even bent it back a little and away from the rotor. It only happens when I'm going maybe 5-10mph and the noise is worse after I've been driving for awhile. It sounds rubbery though. Any thoughts on what it could be?

Last edited by 7mJoe; 11-10-2010 at 09:33 AM.
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Old 11-10-2010, 07:18 PM
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Well my problem is when I go out to crank my car from a cold start. Well when I go out to crank it up it will die out but once it dies out I have to keep tapping on the gas to even get it started. I'm trying to figured out why this happens. It would be great if I could get some feedback. Thanks in advance.
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Old 11-11-2010, 06:33 PM
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Hello all, I have a stock 92 maxima. For my first performance mod, I am deciding between warpspeed y pipe, or cold air intake. What do you guys think?
Also, where can I get a relatively cheap warpspeed y pipe? Ive searched on here, but the posts were from so long ago the links posted are broken=/
The cheapest I was able to find is 290, not including shipping. What do you guys think of these mods?
I commute to school 40 miles away, three times a week, and my job is 25 miles away, which i make the trip 4 times a week, so im desperately seeking an increase in mpg, as well as making my car a bit faster ;]
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Old 11-11-2010, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Johnhulloway
Hello all, I have a stock 92 maxima. For my first performance mod, I am deciding between warpspeed y pipe, or cold air intake. What do you guys think?
Also, where can I get a relatively cheap warpspeed y pipe? Ive searched on here, but the posts were from so long ago the links posted are broken=/
The cheapest I was able to find is 290, not including shipping. What do you guys think of these mods?
I commute to school 40 miles away, three times a week, and my job is 25 miles away, which i make the trip 4 times a week, so im desperately seeking an increase in mpg, as well as making my car a bit faster ;]
cheapest place to buy one will be used from the classifieds. WSP is pretty much their own distributor, so their ebay store will be about it new.
wsp-y and a cai are a good start. after that (if you don't have one), a 5-speed swap and fidanza.
also, remember the other stuff you can do to increase mpg: clean your trunk, back seat, etc. of extra junk.
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Old 11-11-2010, 09:11 PM
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i know somebody else is selling a Warpspeed Ypipe here, i bought 4DSC's for $160 shipped and its in mint shape. i was cruising the classifieds the other day and found someone else with one

exhaust, CAI, and Ypipe and the best first mods to do though
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Old 11-12-2010, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Johnhulloway
Hello all, I have a stock 92 maxima. For my first performance mod, I am deciding between warpspeed y pipe, or cold air intake. What do you guys think?
Also, where can I get a relatively cheap warpspeed y pipe? Ive searched on here, but the posts were from so long ago the links posted are broken=/
The cheapest I was able to find is 290, not including shipping. What do you guys think of these mods?
I commute to school 40 miles away, three times a week, and my job is 25 miles away, which i make the trip 4 times a week, so im desperately seeking an increase in mpg, as well as making my car a bit faster ;]
Everything you need in one place.

http://forums.maxima.org/1st-3rd-generations-classifieds-1981-1994/615711-fs-3rd-gen-ve-y-pipe-stillen-intake.html

Last edited by tresboi; 11-13-2010 at 07:08 AM.
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Old 11-12-2010, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by tresboi
Your link is broken edit and repair or remove.
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Old 11-12-2010, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by elusivemax93
Your link is broken edit and repair or remove.
he just accidentally put two HTTP in the link, this is the correct one

http://forums.maxima.org/1st-3rd-gen...en-intake.html
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Old 11-13-2010, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by elusivemax93
Your link is broken edit and repair or remove.
Now he has multiple working links going to the same recent post in the classifieds. LOL We good??

Originally Posted by chrome91
he just accidentally put two HTTP in the link, this is the correct one

http://forums.maxima.org/1st-3rd-gen...en-intake.html
Thanks for the double http catch.
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Old 11-16-2010, 11:25 AM
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Thanks for the help guys, my max is starting to look damn clean. Sorry for all the stupid questions though. Im still pretty new to this.
Now I am wondering something. I am ordering some euro clear corner lenses off ebay(I know ebay sucks, but I can't find any anywhere else, unless someone has a link for me?)
Now do I need front side marker amber bulbs to put under these lenses, or front turn signal amber bulbs? I dont know the difference...
Also, my interior pretty much looks like ****. Previous owner did not take care of it at all. Do you guys know of any good sites or places to check out around nashville that has new/better aftermarket interior for the max? I have leather, and its cracked and ripped to ****. Also the flooring interior up front is filthy beyond repair.

Edit- Also. I while back my regular headlights just stopped working alltogether. both just stopped working at the same time, so I have had to drive around with my brights like a douche. what could of caused this to happen? Is it an easy fix? I want to fix this. Also, if I want to get xenon of HID headlights, do I need a conversion kit also?

Last edited by Johnhulloway; 11-16-2010 at 11:30 AM.
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Old 11-16-2010, 06:00 PM
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front turn signal is probably referring to the rectangular signal lights on the bumper, you want the side marker amber bulbs i think.

for interior parts, check junkyards. i have seen nice leather 3rd gen interiors go to waste there, otherwise find someone on the site here who has a spare interior

for your headlights, check the wiring and fuses first. and do HID's properly, if you dont you will blind people
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Old 11-16-2010, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Johnhulloway
Thanks for the help guys, my max is starting to look damn clean. Sorry for all the stupid questions though. Im still pretty new to this.
Now I am wondering something. I am ordering some euro clear corner lenses off ebay(I know ebay sucks, but I can't find any anywhere else, unless someone has a link for me?)
Now do I need front side marker amber bulbs to put under these lenses, or front turn signal amber bulbs? I dont know the difference...
Also, my interior pretty much looks like ****. Previous owner did not take care of it at all. Do you guys know of any good sites or places to check out around nashville that has new/better aftermarket interior for the max? I have leather, and its cracked and ripped to ****. Also the flooring interior up front is filthy beyond repair.

Edit- Also. I while back my regular headlights just stopped working alltogether. both just stopped working at the same time, so I have had to drive around with my brights like a douche. what could of caused this to happen? Is it an easy fix? I want to fix this. Also, if I want to get xenon of HID headlights, do I need a conversion kit also?
chrome pretty much covered it. I, too have seen be-ee-a-youtiful interiors go to waste at junk yards.
the clear corners, I just put the regular bulbs in mine. looks fine, and never been harassed for it.
search for HID, you will find most of us are against it. look at the e36 conversions if you want good lighting.
current headlights may be the switch, but usually doesn't happen both at once. check fuses/relays.
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Old 11-16-2010, 11:17 PM
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Noob to this site, I have a 90 maxima and my brake lights started sticking on. I fumbled around with the brake pedal and came up with the conclusion that I need a new brake switch. When i would press it hard really quick and take my foot of they would go off for a while and the come back on in a few secs.
And to get my car out of park I now have to push the little orange shift lock button at the bottom of the shifter. Does this mean I need a neutral safety switch?
Thanks
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Old 11-17-2010, 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by CGon22s
Noob to this site, I have a 90 maxima and my brake lights started sticking on. I fumbled around with the brake pedal and came up with the conclusion that I need a new brake switch. When i would press it hard really quick and take my foot of they would go off for a while and the come back on in a few secs.
And to get my car out of park I now have to push the little orange shift lock button at the bottom of the shifter. Does this mean I need a neutral safety switch?
Thanks
for the brakes, i believe theres like a button that activates the brake lights when you press the pedal, some people have had their button rust out so that it doesnt engage sometimes, check that first. its a pretty easy fix if thats what it is

and when you depress the brake, is there a click from the shifter?
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Old 11-17-2010, 08:34 AM
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clear engine light

new to forum,have 1993 maxima dohc,had several vacuum lines leaking,
replaced,engine still idles rough half time,need to clear engine light,or
at least check codes,tried to find steps to clear cel and how to check codes,just seemed to find dead ends/people flaming each other?
any help on mechanical/electrical direction on this forum is appreciated
thanks
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Old 11-17-2010, 09:37 AM
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check engine light now off??

just posted question on engine light,
replaced several vacuum lines,cleaned throttle body,cleaned egr,engine light still on,fine,all done last night.
still idled rough,half time.
this morning just test drove,no engine trouble light on
runs 10x better.
how???????
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Old 11-17-2010, 12:17 PM
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found on bing search

thanks for help
found codes and reset on a bing search
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Old 11-17-2010, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by chrome91
for the brakes, i believe theres like a button that activates the brake lights when you press the pedal, some people have had their button rust out so that it doesnt engage sometimes, check that first. its a pretty easy fix if thats what it is

and when you depress the brake, is there a click from the shifter?

It used to click, but now I have to push the shift lock button
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Old 11-17-2010, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by CGon22s
It used to click, but now I have to push the shift lock button
if its not clicking now it may be a fuse, i remember someone else had the same problem and im pretty sure it was a fuse that needed replacing
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Old 11-17-2010, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by chrome91
if its not clicking now it may be a fuse, i remember someone else had the same problem and im pretty sure it was a fuse that needed replacing
All my fuses are good, none blown. I replaced them all. My dash fuse kept blowing and i wouldnt have any gauges so i had to use a higher fuse like a 30a in that one. that was the only one giving me problems.
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Old 11-17-2010, 07:02 PM
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TronHunter,

Try putting the car from park to neutral if you have an automatic, then put it back in park and try to start it again. My car does this once in a while, I think the neutral safety switch may be the problem.
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Old 11-18-2010, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by LI89Max
I own an '89 Maxima. I had the engine changed with a used one (80k on it), at 400k, and the tranny changed @360k, with a brand new trans in the crate from Japan. the car will, at any time either totally drop the rpm's to 0 (at any speed), or have extreme hesitation/ or rough idle. I changed the fuel filter, injectors, pressure regulator, fuel rail, IAC assy, distributor assy, vacuum hoses, air filter, plugs, cap/rotor, and wires. I noticed that if i move the wiring harness the rough idle occurs. After moving the harness around a bit to make the rough idle occur, it dissapeared, as it often does, but now the tranny shift late from 1st to 2nd(the rpm's dont drop when it does shift, just goes into second, and rpm's keep climbing), but the 2nd to 3rd shift is a little harder. The shifting problem doesnt happen if the 1st gear rpm's stay under 3k. Anyone have any ideas? Anyone run into bad engine wiring harness's creating these problems? I have 430k on the car now, and wanted to at least hit 500k.
Ok i had random idle problems as well and it was a combination of several electrical problems and i also had an auto tranny that would go into limp home mode. The injector connectors had corrosion in them so once cleaned that helped but the main problem ended up being the speedo unit that had bad solder connections on it i think. I swapped it out for another and all these problems stopped. The speedo unit processes signals and sends them to the ECU for the motor and also the ECU for the tranny as well as a few other electrical items like cruise control and electronic adjustable suspension. All items had problems intermittently and have all been corrected by the new speedo unit.. Might be worth a try to solve the possible auto issue and idle you have as you have swapped everything else... Most people would not be aware of the speedo unit controlling stuff!! So could be your tranny is getting conflicting speed signals and causing an erratic change. Also try another dropping solenoid for the auto it is near the left/driverside suspension tower and can cause bad changes.Vee

Last edited by Veeone; 11-18-2010 at 01:19 PM.
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Old 11-18-2010, 06:38 PM
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ve30 knock sensor

is the knock sensor underneath the intake manifold?
can it be reached with extension and 1/4 drive ratchet?
any help,i think i posted this in the right forum area,right?
thank you?
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Old 11-19-2010, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 32621
is the knock sensor underneath the intake manifold?
can it be reached with extension and 1/4 drive ratchet?
any help,i think i posted this in the right forum area,right?
thank you?
You have a VE it is under the intake manifold and you have to remove the manifold to access the knock sensor. Buy new intake plenum gasket if you plan on removing the intake plenum. It's like 6-12 dollars depending where you buy it. Autozone doesn't carry the gasket. Nor do they carry lower intake manifold gasket nor valve cover gasket. Plus i recommend to always use dealer oem parts when it comes to gaskets over aftermarket.
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Old 11-19-2010, 12:05 PM
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thanks

appreciate help,
i was hoping i could access it without pulling intake,
called parts store,this gasket set has an upper/lower,
also exhaust and valve cover gaskets,wtf,never seen anything like that.
sounds like a bunch of extra bull****,just to sell as a kit.
thanks again.
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Old 11-21-2010, 11:26 AM
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change knock location

can the knock sensors location be safely changed on dohc 93 maxima
instead of under the intake without causing sensor malfunctions?
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Old 11-21-2010, 06:05 PM
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not under intake

well pulled intake manifold,
there is no knock sensor located anywhere??????????
at least i can replace the injectors while i am there.
guess i can clean the throttle body and intake manifold,
replace some parts,
bad advice on location of the knock sensor
thats a fact.
maybe if i needed info on chrome plated tire valves
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Old 11-22-2010, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 32621
well pulled intake manifold,
there is no knock sensor located anywhere??????????
...
bad advice on location of the knock sensor
thats a fact.
maybe if i needed info on chrome plated tire valves

LOL Maybe you need info on how to use Google, too.

The sensor is in the middle of the valley; just follow the wiring harness.


Last edited by tresboi; 11-22-2010 at 10:06 AM.
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Old 11-23-2010, 11:16 AM
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good pic

good pic,found knock under LOWER manifold,
i see how coolant transfer pipe is unbolted on one side but other
is double thread?
how did you remove without messing with w.p.?
google,bing,all those work to some degree,
you have to admit some forums don't exactly deal with serious wrench
advice,alot of fluff,pretty rims,mirrors,took my car to dealership?
what the hell,waste of time.
doing this without any manual,thanks again for pic.
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Old 11-26-2010, 11:10 AM
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91 maxima trans problem

i have an automatic 91 maxima , the trans goes into park but when i shift into any other gear it pretty much seems like its in nuetral . the trans went out when i was driving , i lost all gears at the same time , except for park. the trans fluid looks good. do u no if my trans is dead or could it be an easier fix ?

Last edited by gehusemanjr; 11-26-2010 at 11:13 AM.
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Old 11-26-2010, 08:13 PM
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Dude your new here how long have you owned maximas for? I've owned them for 8 years and wrench all my own work. I've replaced all my suspension, drive axles and hubs. Replaced clutch and all clutch lines. I wasn't wrong as to area of location just haven't had to deal with bad knock sensor. Im also bout to replace rear fuel injectors lower and upper intake manifold gaskets as well as valve cover gaskets and install a nwp plenum spacer. We try to help those who ask questions but your attitude in how you respond is uncalled for. You want help ask but don't be rude because we somehow mislead you.

Thank you.

Originally Posted by 32621
good pic,found knock under LOWER manifold,
i see how coolant transfer pipe is unbolted on one side but other
is double thread?
how did you remove without messing with w.p.?
google,bing,all those work to some degree,
you have to admit some forums don't exactly deal with serious wrench
advice,alot of fluff,pretty rims,mirrors,took my car to dealership?
what the hell,waste of time.
doing this without any manual,thanks again for pic.
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