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*NOOBIES* The "I am new here,but have a question" thread..(post your questions here)

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Old 12-10-2010, 06:43 PM
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Headlights work, taillights dont, blinkers dont work not even emergency(you can hear it blink real fast but nothing on the exterior), dash lights all work, fuel guage works sometimes, interior lamps work, door locks and windows work, auto seatbelts work. But yeah no power to fuel pump relay. And no cel lights at all from ecu.

I was just looking at the ground cable from the battery because everyone talks about grounds to the ecu. The ground cable from the batt only connects to the motor. There is a eye half way down the cable.... i assume that would bolt on to the body. Would this cause problems? I mean half the car still powers up without it connected to the body. Im not a total noob just never dealt with a ecu problem before.

The ecu fuse is ok tested it with a continuity tester

Last edited by jeramie78; 12-10-2010 at 06:46 PM.
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Old 12-10-2010, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by BenStoked
you have a timing chain, not belt, so it's not as likely to break (but possible) (one of the features of the ve30de is that chain, vs my vg30e which most 3rd gens have).
I believe they are interference (90% sure).
any weird noises when it shut down?
yeah there was a loud noise like metal rubbing together, which I assume isn't very good
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Old 12-10-2010, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Travass66
yeah there was a loud noise like metal rubbing together, which I assume isn't very good
ouch... you may be looking for a couple of new complete heads, or a new engine...
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Old 12-11-2010, 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by BenStoked
ouch... you may be looking for a couple of new complete heads, or a new engine...
yea thats why im probably just gonna junk it, I don't have the money or the time to get it fixed or buy a new engine and have it installed (god knows I couldn't do it...) I loved that car, but I guess it's time to let go :/
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Old 12-11-2010, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Travass66
yea thats why im probably just gonna junk it, I don't have the money or the time to get it fixed or buy a new engine and have it installed (god knows I couldn't do it...) I loved that car, but I guess it's time to let go :/
dont crush it, you wont get much for the metal. try to sell it on here whole, worst case part it out and make a few hundred
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Old 12-11-2010, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by chrome91
dont crush it, you wont get much for the metal. try to sell it on here whole, worst case part it out and make a few hundred
It would cost over 100 dollars to have it towed back to my place, and I already owe them for towing it to the shop :/
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Old 12-14-2010, 10:22 AM
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maxima1992

Hi,

Firstable I would like to thank you for this forum, it's a gift for people like me who need some help and are not really perfect technicians...

I'm an student from France in exchange in Vancouver to study english. I'm looking for some help for my 1992 maxima. I bough it in september for 600$ at a very decent price I think, it is a very heavy invesment for me but I'm very happy about this car working perfectly fine. I changed breaks and oil that's all the car needed and the car worked perfectly smooth until 1 month ago.

Now I've some problems when I start the car and only to start it because the car work fine once it's on the road. Just to describe a little my problem: When i put the key on I think I can hear the gas pump working, then when I try to start the car, there is no start I can only hear the noise like when it usualy start without any spark. So I can't accelerate or do anything more than trying to turn the key for the car to start. Usualy if I wait for 1 or 2 days the car start again... For a undertermined time!

I don't know if it's a gas or spark problem and I'm very worried because I need to pickup my girlfirend on saturday with my car at Seattle airport.

The car also had a minor problem because of the friend at the front bumper, the blinker is down and it need a bit o resin and paint... Nothing has been strach just a bit of plastic, which is the best solution to repair the blinker and make the strach disaper, resin?

Finnaly can you send me a idea of the price to solve the 2 problem.

Regards,

Alexandre.

If you are on Vancouver and you can physicaly help me as a mecanic I live on SFU campus, I will give you my phone number by private message
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Old 12-14-2010, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by maximacoq
Hi,

Firstable I would like to thank you for this forum, it's a gift for people like me who need some help and are not really perfect technicians...

I'm an student from France in exchange in Vancouver to study english. I'm looking for some help for my 1992 maxima. I bough it in september for 600$ at a very decent price I think, it is a very heavy invesment for me but I'm very happy about this car working perfectly fine. I changed breaks and oil that's all the car needed and the car worked perfectly smooth until 1 month ago.

Now I've some problems when I start the car and only to start it because the car work fine once it's on the road. Just to describe a little my problem: When i put the key on I think I can hear the gas pump working, then when I try to start the car, there is no start I can only hear the noise like when it usualy start without any spark. So I can't accelerate or do anything more than trying to turn the key for the car to start. Usualy if I wait for 1 or 2 days the car start again... For a undertermined time!

I don't know if it's a gas or spark problem and I'm very worried because I need to pickup my girlfirend on saturday with my car at Seattle airport.

The car also had a minor problem because of the friend at the front bumper, the blinker is down and it need a bit o resin and paint... Nothing has been strach just a bit of plastic, which is the best solution to repair the blinker and make the strach disaper, resin?

Finnaly can you send me a idea of the price to solve the 2 problem.

Regards,

Alexandre.

If you are on Vancouver and you can physicaly help me as a mecanic I live on SFU campus, I will give you my phone number by private message
is it a SE or GXE?

might have a bad spot on your starter, hit the starter with a bit of force with a slightly heavy metal object and see if it starts
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Old 12-14-2010, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by maximacoq
Hi,

Firstable I would like to thank you for this forum, it's a gift for people like me who need some help and are not really perfect technicians...

I'm an student from France in exchange in Vancouver to study english. I'm looking for some help for my 1992 maxima. I bough it in september for 600$ at a very decent price I think, it is a very heavy invesment for me but I'm very happy about this car working perfectly fine. I changed breaks and oil that's all the car needed and the car worked perfectly smooth until 1 month ago.

Now I've some problems when I start the car and only to start it because the car work fine once it's on the road. Just to describe a little my problem: When i put the key on I think I can hear the gas pump working, then when I try to start the car, there is no start I can only hear the noise like when it usualy start without any spark. So I can't accelerate or do anything more than trying to turn the key for the car to start. Usualy if I wait for 1 or 2 days the car start again... For a undertermined time!

I don't know if it's a gas or spark problem and I'm very worried because I need to pickup my girlfirend on saturday with my car at Seattle airport.

The car also had a minor problem because of the friend at the front bumper, the blinker is down and it need a bit o resin and paint... Nothing has been strach just a bit of plastic, which is the best solution to repair the blinker and make the strach disaper, resin?

Finnaly can you send me a idea of the price to solve the 2 problem.

Regards,

Alexandre.

If you are on Vancouver and you can physicaly help me as a mecanic I live on SFU campus, I will give you my phone number by private message
first, "firstable" isn't an english word (aside from that, and "strach", english is awesome!)

no, really, first: is the motor spinning, or not?
also, in 92, Nisan started putting different motors in the maximas. do you have the DOHC version, or the SOHC?

a pic of the scratch may help, not sure what you really mean by it.
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Old 12-14-2010, 01:26 PM
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Ok my car is a SE (the red engine), my last mecanic told me it was the best engine if the color is not a good clue for you. I'll send you an image of my scrach. The car started after beating the starter. I noticed that the power of the starter is sometimes more slow and sometimes more powerfull
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Old 12-14-2010, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by maximacoq
Ok my car is a SE (the red engine), my last mecanic told me it was the best engine if the color is not a good clue for you. I'll send you an image of my scrach. The car started after beating the starter. I noticed that the power of the starter is sometimes more slow and sometimes more powerfull
yeah if it started after hitting the starter you probably need a new one

you have the VE30DE then, you and Burhan are the only other people i know with VE's in western Canada (unless you mean the American Vancouver, not Vancouver B.C)
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Old 12-14-2010, 03:16 PM
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in fact it started 3 times after I hit the starter. how much do u think I'll pay the mecanic for the part and the work?
As well for the scratch http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/2368/iphone319h.jpg

Last edited by Greeny; 12-25-2010 at 03:44 PM.
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Old 12-14-2010, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by maximacoq
in fact it started 3 times after I hit the starter. how much do u think I'll pay the mecanic for the part and the work?
As well for the scratch[IMG]http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/2368/iphone319h.jpg[IMG]
ah.
you can get a new bumper cover for pretty cheap from a salvage yard. that can't be simply "fixed," must be replaced.

an est. for starter would be 150-200. can be done yourself, for about half.
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Old 12-14-2010, 03:23 PM
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I knew I should of kept my starter off the car before I scraped it, it worked perfectly find and would of sold it cheap. Sorry.
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Old 12-14-2010, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by maximacoq
in fact it started 3 times after I hit the starter. how much do u think I'll pay the mecanic for the part and the work?
As well for the scratch http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/2368/iphone319h.jpg
yep hit up a local junkyard, a new one should be around $40

Last edited by Greeny; 12-25-2010 at 03:44 PM.
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Old 12-14-2010, 03:30 PM
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@maximacoq
After taking a long trip, i fell asleep and smashed the front bumber, 2 weeks after, i went to junk yard, pulled it off and fixed the whole thing. That's a cheap but valuable alternative.

My question to all: I am currently doing a "makeover" for my little girl (Maxima) I got oil, filter and ignition coil changed. I just have the transmission fluid to take care of but a small doubt got into me, Since i cannot do a flush (just out of question), so for a drain and fill, do I need to change the trans filter of just LITERALY drain and fill? And I can't find any store that sells Nissan Matic D. Many forum push me to buy some different brand of fluid.

I looked at advance auto parts and found this:
MaxLife DEX/MERC ATF contains a blend of base oils and a unique additive package to help extend the life of transmissions with over 75,000 miles. It is formulated to maximize transmission performance, reduce transmission wear and improve and maintain smooth shifting longer than conventional fluids. MaxLife DEX/MERC ATF is compatible with new and rebuilt transmissions and will not void new car warranties. Recommended for use where DEXRON, DEXRON II, III and VI, Toyota T-IV and WS, MERCON®, MERCON® SP and LV, Allison TES 295 and 389, Nissan Matic-D, Matic-J and Matic-K, Honda Z-1 (except CVT), Mercedes NAG-1, Mitsubishi Diamond SP-II and SP-III and many others are required.
Is it a good oil for my 120.000 miles tranny?


And yes I'm a noob... but i love my car!
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Old 12-14-2010, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by MrBraco
@maximacoq
After taking a long trip, i fell asleep and smashed the front bumber, 2 weeks after, i went to junk yard, pulled it off and fixed the whole thing. That's a cheap but valuable alternative.

My question to all: I am currently doing a "makeover" for my little girl (Maxima) I got oil, filter and ignition coil changed. I just have the transmission fluid to take care of but a small doubt got into me, Since i cannot do a flush (just out of question), so for a drain and fill, do I need to change the trans filter of just LITERALY drain and fill? And I can't find any store that sells Nissan Matic D. Many forum push me to buy some different brand of fluid.

I looked at advance auto parts and found this:


Is it a good oil for my 120.000 miles tranny?


And yes I'm a noob... but i love my car!
personally i would go for Royal Purple ATF, i switched to it in the summer and felt a good difference and a tech borrowed my Max to run some tests after puting Royal Purple in and confirmed it
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Old 12-14-2010, 03:49 PM
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Yeah thanks, I'm gonna change the starter, hope it's the right problem! Do you think I can change it myself? What tools do I need?
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Old 12-14-2010, 08:42 PM
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Hey guys,

I bough this afternoon a remanufactured starter for 125$CAN for my maxima. I would like to install it myself! Can you help me with the procedure? is it difficult?
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Old 12-14-2010, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by maximacoq
Hey guys,

I bough this afternoon a remanufactured starter for 125$CAN for my maxima. I would like to install it myself! Can you help me with the procedure? is it difficult?
not difficult at all. the starter is held in by two bolts, plus a nut holding the battery cable on. disconnect the battery (from the battery), remove the power cable and starter wire. take teh two bolts out. install is reverse.
shouldn't take but an hour your first time.
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Old 12-14-2010, 10:42 PM
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My parent's 1994 Nissan Maxima with the G30e engine is having trouble with getting warm in the winter. After a year of denying that the car not reaching temperature and blowing cold air meant that anything was wrong, my dad finally decided to admit the thermostat was bad.

Anyway, I can't find any good instructions for how to do this. The little bit I've seen online says the thermostat housing is on the front of the engine bay, above the water pump, as though the car is rear wheel drive. This car is front wheel drive. I can see what looks to be the thermostat housing on the passenger's side of the engine bay, but it looks impossible to access. The distributor, coolant hoses, an air conditioning line and more things are in the way...So, does anyone know how to change the thermostat for a front wheel drive?
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Old 12-15-2010, 03:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Sarthos
My parent's 1994 Nissan Maxima with the G30e engine is having trouble with getting warm in the winter. After a year of denying that the car not reaching temperature and blowing cold air meant that anything was wrong, my dad finally decided to admit the thermostat was bad.

Anyway, I can't find any good instructions for how to do this. The little bit I've seen online says the thermostat housing is on the front of the engine bay, above the water pump, as though the car is rear wheel drive. This car is front wheel drive. I can see what looks to be the thermostat housing on the passenger's side of the engine bay, but it looks impossible to access. The distributor, coolant hoses, an air conditioning line and more things are in the way...So, does anyone know how to change the thermostat for a front wheel drive?
The following is a tutorial to change the timing belt, which the steps will help you reach to the thermostat.

http://www.caraudiohelp.com/nissan_m...e_tutorial.htm

But before you tackle that job, try to completely bleed the system. Although it applies to the 89 and 90 Maximas, this TSB may be worth a shot for you:

http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB90-079.pdf
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Old 12-15-2010, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Sarthos
My parent's 1994 Nissan Maxima with the G30e engine is having trouble with getting warm in the winter. After a year of denying that the car not reaching temperature and blowing cold air meant that anything was wrong, my dad finally decided to admit the thermostat was bad.

Anyway, I can't find any good instructions for how to do this. The little bit I've seen online says the thermostat housing is on the front of the engine bay, above the water pump, as though the car is rear wheel drive. This car is front wheel drive. I can see what looks to be the thermostat housing on the passenger's side of the engine bay, but it looks impossible to access. The distributor, coolant hoses, an air conditioning line and more things are in the way...So, does anyone know how to change the thermostat for a front wheel drive?
i would just doublecheck that the system is bled, VG's are notorious to be hard to bleed and air in the system can cause cold air
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Old 12-16-2010, 12:58 AM
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my heat and ac dont work for shiet. what can it be?
i have the digital control climate and i messed around with it and not even a gust of air
comes out of any of the vents but when i press button i can hear things moving like they
are activating but nothing happends.
its cold here and i need the damn heat lol
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Old 12-16-2010, 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by chrome91
personally i would go for Royal Purple ATF, i switched to it in the summer and felt a good difference and a tech borrowed my Max to run some tests after puting Royal Purple in and confirmed it
Thank you but do i need to change the transmission filter, or is it too late or no need when drain and fill? I dont mind changing it but should i? And what if my local store doesn't have royal purple ?
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Old 12-16-2010, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by MrBraco
Thank you but do i need to change the transmission filter, or is it too late or no need when drain and fill? I dont mind changing it but should i? And what if my local store doesn't have royal purple ?
you can but ive told its not a must, when i got my overhaul done we couldnt find a filter in the city and he said no worries its not needed

off the top off my head i dont know any other good brands
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Old 12-17-2010, 01:17 AM
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Originally Posted by mikekantor
The stuff I used is only in the engine briefly, under low RPMs, and once its done you drain the oil, so its not there long enough really damage anything.

It seems that it cant really get any worse, so your options are (a) leave as is and drive until it dies, (b) try to remidy the issue and hope for the best, (c) engine swap or (d) sell it.
Gunk motor flush. $3.99 + tax at autozone. Pour in engine before draining oil idle for five minutes drain and remove old filter and replace with new filter and fill.
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Old 12-18-2010, 03:38 PM
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I'm back with another problem

Now this problem happens when I sit idle in drive my car seems to cut off. It just recently started happening. I can be sitting at a red light then it cuts off but I can crank it back up and keep going but I'm wondering what could be the problem because I put a new MAF, Temp. Control Sensor, New plugs, new intake, new coils. I don't know what else to do at the moment. Also I still have the hesitation problem were my car will shutter out until I take my foot off the pedal. You guys on the forum have been a great help on fixing problems so I know you want mind helping me out again. Thanks in advance.
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Old 12-19-2010, 01:59 PM
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vacuum line diagram

I have been looking through the general maintenance thing and cant find it but i want to know if there is a way to get the diagrams for all lines on the intake manifold i dont have an fsm and i cant find what i want the haynes either, what i need to know is where do i route the port on the back passenger side of the manifold right by where the thermostat and temp sensors go? cars been idling funny for a while now cant find the problem i read how to check the ecu and it reads 55 which means its fine but it still idles weird like 2000 when its warm but sometimes it hunts like the maf is messed up but it doesnt throw a code, i cleaned the maf still does it, the only thing i havent done is cleaned the iacv the engine is an imported vg30e no egr which i find weird, theres an option for it i think but the port is blocked off anyway im totally on a tangent right now, just want vacuum line diagrams and any info on the funny idle you can give..... o also i found what looked like a pipe cleaner in the breather hose for the front valve cover I figure thats not a normal thing right??
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Old 12-20-2010, 01:29 PM
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Bose System

Ok I just purchased some new subwoofers to replace that stock bose subwoofer in my 2000 Nissan Maxima GLE. I couldn't find the answer to my question anywhere, but does the amp only power the subwoofer? Or does it also power the other speakers?

If it just powers the subwoofer, is it easy to remove power cables from the amp?

Thanks
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Old 12-20-2010, 01:34 PM
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Ok heres my question. Im looking into replacing the stock exhaust on my 07 Se...Really want a Nismo one that i seen on youtube that was a modified version of the Altima Se-r...But for some reason i CANNOT find it anywhere. Can some one please lead me in the right direction.
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Old 12-20-2010, 07:15 PM
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^ ChriseGLE, you want the 5th gen section, 07Max you want the 7th gen section
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Old 12-20-2010, 07:51 PM
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fixed the vacuum lines

i was looking through the org and found my answer, it was the heater actuator valve deal that i was looking for, but the car still lacks low end power it idles better now though, any ideas? can the IAC cause no power, especially on cold start and uphill.
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Old 12-22-2010, 10:35 PM
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Hello,
I was wondering where I can get my roofing done.
Can anyone please help me.
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Old 12-25-2010, 03:15 PM
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hey guys just recently bought a white 92 maxima se with 206k miles but is very clean and the clutch is like new. quick question. i changed my plugs yesterday with ngk v power and when i pulled out the the plug fro cylinder 1 it was covered in oil. it had to be at least 2-3 inches of oil in there. does this mean i have a bad valve cover gasket or is it something else?
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Old 12-25-2010, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by kingscrappy
Now this problem happens when I sit idle in drive my car seems to cut off. It just recently started happening. I can be sitting at a red light then it cuts off but I can crank it back up and keep going but I'm wondering what could be the problem because I put a new MAF, Temp. Control Sensor, New plugs, new intake, new coils. I don't know what else to do at the moment. Also I still have the hesitation problem were my car will shutter out until I take my foot off the pedal. You guys on the forum have been a great help on fixing problems so I know you want mind helping me out again. Thanks in advance.
could be ur egr, knock senor, throttle position senor, vaccum lines, or ur idle spped control.
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Old 12-25-2010, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by got_sixth
hey guys just recently bought a white 92 maxima se with 206k miles but is very clean and the clutch is like new. quick question. i changed my plugs yesterday with ngk v power and when i pulled out the the plug fro cylinder 1 it was covered in oil. it had to be at least 2-3 inches of oil in there. does this mean i have a bad valve cover gasket or is it something else?
Yes, you have a leaking valve cover gasket....
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Old 12-25-2010, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Greeny
Yes, you have a leaking valve cover gasket....
since its in the back and i have to take off the intake manifold. can i reuse the same intake manifold gasket?
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Old 12-25-2010, 06:25 PM
  #6039  
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Originally Posted by got_sixth
since its in the back and i have to take off the intake manifold. can i reuse the same intake manifold gasket?
I have before, but it came off in one solid piece, i just used some black rtv on it...it would be a good idea to go ahead and replace it though...they arent that expensive...
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Old 12-25-2010, 09:39 PM
  #6040  
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Originally Posted by Greeny
I have before, but it came off in one solid piece, i just used some black rtv on it...it would be a good idea to go ahead and replace it though...they arent that expensive...
i think i will go ahead and get new one then. thanks for the input.
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