txsilverado1

I posted this in another board here. However, I think this may have been where it belongs.

Newbe here with two new purchases!
Just bought my 7th Maxima/I30-35. The week before last I bought a 99 GLE with 115k that someone jumped a curb and bent control arms, broke wheels, busted A/C compressor and who knows what else. Runs good tho, and at $750 I think I did ok.
Then this week I stopped by the old mans house down the street for the second time in two years to see if he was ready to sell his 93 Maxima with 126k that has been sitting for at least 3yrs. After giving him $1000, and installing a new battery, it started right up and I drove it home. He gave me the window sticker with it. It's not perfect tho, he replaced one bank of injectors sometime in the past and they do not match the original ones. I do not know if that is the problem, but it runs too rich and has NO power at all. I did a little troubleshooting to rule out o2 sensor and MAF. I am leaning towards biting the bullet and buying a full set of injectors as a base line.

IThaJokaI

New to the forums, picked up a 93 maxima from my aunt today for really cheap.

Car runs perfect, goes into park, reverse and neutral fine. But if you put it into any forward gears nothing happens. I know it cant be the transmission, because it never warranted signs or slipping or anything.

Car sat for a while, when they started it to drive it after tagging/insuring it... It just didn't drive.

any ideas?

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

is it a SE or GXE?

so it does nothing when you go into D, 2, or 1? if it just wont go into D, i would check the shifter bushing. if it wont go into 2 or 1 either its probably something else

Altec

Just talking to my Dad about the matter. He figures it is one of the clutch packs. Pretty much the only thing that will lose all the forward gears. If you still had one, is say a solenoid.

IThaJokaI

Yeah I pretty much narrowed it down to slipping bands, this is my first time with a auto car. Now its time to find out if its worth it to 5 speed swap it, or to find a good auto to replace it with.

redhunter

Just replaced all 6 a couple of weekends ago using this guide: http://www.caraudiohelp.com/nissan_m...e_tutorial.htm

Got most parts from rockauto (there's a 5% off code floating around here).

About 10 years ago I replaced one injector so it wasn't entirely new but the tutorial helped. It has steps to clean out intake related bits that you can skip if you wish.

Sounds like you got a great deal

IThaJokaI

With my 93 sohc vg, would everything from a dohc 5 speed work? Other than the ecu of course.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Yes, you can swap in a DOHC 5 speed LSD tranny

You'll need DOHC 5 speed axles and hubs (unless you want to do hybrid axles). And you'll also need the axle carrier bracket from a 5 speed (VG or VE are both the same). Plus then the obvious stuff like tranny, shift linkage, hydraulic system, etc.

IThaJokaI

Ahh the joys of fwd cars, lol. I guess I will have to see how much it would cost me to locally source all of these parts.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

should be ~$200 from a junkyard

and yes im the one with Sparco seats

IThaJokaI

Manual transmissions are $150 from the local yards, so its going to be a bit more than 200. =(

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

What part of the country do you live in?

nyc_ink

iTrader: (1)

whats the parts # for the fuel injector harness?
im looking for the cables that clip on the injectors?
any site i can buy this from?

jbbons25

iTrader: (2)

From Nissan, there is only a sub harness for the front injectors. P/N is 24078-85E01 for the early style injectors. For the 93/94 GXE injectors it's 24078-7E060, but for some reason the price for that one is really high. For the rear injectors, you will need to buy the entire engine harness from Nissan.

Or you can go to ebay and buy the connectors to cut off and replace the current ones on the vehicle.

elusivemax93

dealer item or jy for those parts. I say contact your local dealer and get a price quote then look up then contact number for jeff from nismoparts @ www.nismoparts.com and see what kind of price he can get you at brand new. His price will beat most all dealers prices if you are willing to wait for delivery or you can opt for two day shipping.

IThaJokaI

Good ol' florida.

nyc_ink

iTrader: (1)

thanks ill check this week

doubleclutch92

LMAO, WHERE CAN I POST THIS FIND?!!! GUESS HERE WILL DO.

http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/ctd/2169401041.html

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

i NEVER thought i would find a 3rd gen worse than the kid who hacked a Eclipse bumper on half-*** but that takes the cake, by far the ugliest 3rd gen i have ever seen

doubleclutch92

All I can think of is norbit, when he was pointing out his wife. "shes pretty"

elusivemax93

HOLLY $HIT THATS FUGLY

nyc_ink

iTrader: (1)

Can a bad/shot catalytic converter mess up or ruin a brand new oxygen sensor?

elusivemax93

Listen you can test the o2 sensor take it out hook a positive and negative test lead to it from a multimeter and see that the signal being put out keeps going from one to set zero and back it will go one zero one zero one and etc that means is working. Anyone care to prove me wrong? Ben or anyone else who thinks my answer is wrong since someone always tries to say my answers are wrong lmfao.

nyc_ink

iTrader: (1)

that wasn't my question

treyfeezy

thinking about getting into the maxima game and this seemed like the best place for info. I have found an 89 on CL it's a 5 speed with just over 157K miles they are asking $1500. Is that a good deal and if so what kind of things should I look for when I go take a look at it?

Thanks in advance

elusivemax93

Nyc_ink listen it is highly doubtful your O2 sensor went bad from a clogged catalytic convertor. It would take much longer then just six months also had you bought the o2 from a parts store they do come with one year warranty. Question answered.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

thats a decent price if its got little to no rust, if its got body damage and rust i would try to get them down to $1000

ask when the timing belt was last done, if it needs to be done its worth it to get the water pump, thermostat, crank angle sensor, and other goodies done while the engine is out. if the timing belt needs doing and you get the other stuff done as well, expect parts+labour to be $1000+ unless you can find someone on here to help you

if the timing belt snaps on you, VG30E except the ones in Villager/Quest vans are interference so if the belt snaps youre looking at a major rebuild or a whole new engine

nyc_ink

iTrader: (1)

the thing is i dont know if the cat is bad.
my cat has a leak around the flanges cuz its old n rusted to hell so i wonna replace the o2 sensor anyway cuz imma put it on my new y-pipe.
since the cat isn't clogged cuz exhaust obviously still comes out my muffler
i guess ill buy the new o2 sensor cuz god knows if its ever been replace.
thanks bro.

Altec

Not really sure what you are explaining. I will just check the sensor with a ohm meter. Comparing the heater side reading, and the sensor side to the factory readings. Or if I don't have them, I check the readings against the new sensor. I notice around here the heater normally is what goes.


To answer your question. No. If your exhaust is doing something bad enough to destroy your sensor, you have bigger problem.

What's happening? What makes you think you have a sensor problem?

Oh- just because you can feel exhaust, doesn't mean it isn't clogged. I had that very issue on my sisters impala. Car ran like crap, but the exhaust felt strong. Replaced the cat, and it ran like a bat out of hell. When I looked in the cat, it was pretty stuffed up.

nyc_ink

iTrader: (1)

the car runs sluggish as hell sometimes but i have two bad injectors. but my mechanic said it can be a combination on the injectors and the cat since its the original one and its rusted to hell and he said it wouldnt hurt if i changed the o2 sensor too cuz its prolly old and defective, and he also said the MAF could be it too but how would i know if the MAF is bad?
he said hell do the injectors for me cuz i can do the rest myself.

Altec

Well, if you know the injectors are bad, I'd swap them first. That will without a doubt make your car run like crap, and miss.

And if your cat is rusted, it could probably stand to be swapped anyway. Or the insides could "fall out." Amazing how hammers and chisels can just fly up into your exhaust...

How old is your sensor? If it is old, it couldn't hit to replace. A old sensor, although not bad can still lead to poor power, and mileage.

I just don't want to tell you to replace a bunch of stuff. One thing at a time.

nyc_ink

iTrader: (1)

im planning on replacing all of those anyway i jus didnt plan on the MAF cuz im not sure how to tell if its bad.

elusivemax93

Altec you can bench test oxygen sensors take and use a propane torch and with the ohm meter check ground and signal sides heater wire can't be checked by bench test. The signal wire should change from zero to one and back and forth if not the signal of the oxygen sensor is bad. Now what I mean is while the torch is on the sensing part of the sensor it will read one when you pull it away it will read zero.

elusivemax93

If the maf is bad when the car is running and you unplug the connector to three maf it will stay running. If it is good the engine will shut off.

The maf at autozone costs with tax and trading in the core $151.32.

I have a spare but need to test it on my car but if it's good I will sell it for $50 plus shipping if you want it once I test it on my ve-5.

Altec

Yep. I did that not long ago on a Toyota Taco. But I simply plugged it into a battery. Since I knew the heater was fine. I needed to check the sensor.

Understand what you are saying now though. The zero was a example. That was confusing me.

got_sixth

motor is making a loud tapping sound from the top. im thinking its the timing chain cause i had a 92 max before and it did the same thing but after the engine warmed up it went away. this one however wont stop tapping and im afraid ima need a new motor. i called up a couple junk yard and they dont have any motor for my car and they say the 95-98 wont work. my question is what is the difference from the 92-94 from the 95-98? yes my motor is the dual overhead.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

Nissan went with VQ engines in Maximas from 1995 to now, 4th gens all have VQ30, 5th gens have VQ30 or VQ35 and 6th and 7th gens have VQ35. you cant use the VQ30 in a 3rd gen unless you do a full swap like Aaron which is alot of work, 4th gens on are a wholenother ballgame

since you have a SE you can only use VE30DE, which was only ever found in 1992-1994 SE Maximas, no other vehicles

elusivemax93

Tapping sound could be just that your valves need adjusting. is it a ve or vg engine? 92 doesn't mean he for sure has a ve motor.

elusivemax93

No I'm not using zero as an example. The oxygen sensor sends a signal of zero one zero one zero one and etc to the ecu. It is what tells your ecu if the car is running rich or lean. go to www.howitworks.com and look up oxygen sensor it should show how the oxygen sensor works on the digital signal it sends to the ecu.

got_sixth

damn that sucks.