Stargate476

So I am going to be replacing my struts in the next week or 2(going to get a buddy of mine to do it since he has a shop). my question is other then the front and rear struts, what other parts do I need to purchase or should purchase for this car?

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

if you want to revamp the suspension replace the ball joints, control arms, tie rods, endlinks, etc

Stargate476

hmm might be a good idea i suppose, would be a big improvement over what it is now :x

Rambosliice

i have a 94 maxima se 5spd and do noottttt know what to get first for my car i set of obx headers or an injen cold air intake and just dont knoww what i should go for first...and another question i have...DOES ANNYYBODY KNOW WHERE TO GET A CAT BACK SYSTEM FOR THE 3RD GEN MAXIMA ive looked everywhere!!

below are the links to the parts im between getting


http://www.raceinspired.com/p-1361-i...1994-1997.aspx

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-E...item25612986db

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

those headers won't work, as you have a dohc (ve30de) motor.
best exhaust mod is a warpspeed y-pipe for that motor.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WARPS...item45f8c98d40


you won't see a performance increase between the injen and cheap ebay cai for a 92-94 maxima (like this one)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-93...item5645029fbb
ditch the fake filter with that one, get an apex'i cone (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Apexi...item2c55f9b99e).
you'll still spend less than the injen, and get the same performance (or better).

There was a group buy for a cat-back a while back, give that a quick search, it'll be in the past few pages, right now

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

http://www.mandrelexhaustsystems.com...ima/Categories

just need to get your own resonator (cant remember the size) and a muffler

stay away from PaceSetter and OBX, theyre pretty crappy brands for the most part. get a full exhaust and WarpSpeed Ypipe and you'll feel a difference

Rambosliice

yea that cai system is a loooottt cheaper thankss haha..and you said that the warpspeed is the best exhaust mod should i just not worry about headers in general or what

Rambosliice

what exactly does that kit include bc it says i only need a muffler not a resonator

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

there aren't any aftermarket headers for that motor, afaik.
you can get/make custom headers, but they wouldn't be worth the money without internal engine work, imo.
it's a piping kit. all mandrel bends, really good ****. well worth the money. add a good muffler (flowmaster is a popular choice).
that, combined with the wsp y-pipe will be an excellent power freeing combo.

Rambosliice

now with this piping kit would i be able to get any kind of aftermarket muffler like off of this website http://www.andysautosport.com/nissan...aust/mufflers/

i look a lot off of this website for most of my parts i plan on getting

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

yeah, you'll need muffler hangers welded onto the new muffler of your choice.
pay attention to the inlet diameter, compared to the exhaust piping (btw, unless you turbo your car, and you won't, based on searches for header, don't go with the 3" piping, waste of money, and they sound bad, imo)

I wouldn't get most of those mufflers, but that's my honest, personal opinion (and choice). I always recommend searching around for a better deal. I have found flowmaster 40's for sale on craigslist for dirt cheap because they were "used" (aka, bolted to the car for test fitting).

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

it probably can be worked with no resonator but it would sound crappy probably

when we all got the group deal one, we got flanges and a hanging kit. i just got a cheap OBX racing resonator and a GSX-71 can muffler, sounded awesome. i still miss hearing that rumble. guy that took the 3rd gen away said it sounded so good we wanted to take it off for his wifes Sentra (as if i want to hear what he was doing to it )

with the Ypipe as well there was a large power increase at 3k-4k rpm which is where i usually shift at unless im in traffic

Rambosliice

hmmm... know of any good sites for mufflers?

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

i just used Ebay, the muffler was cheap because it was from a store that had it on display so it was open box

dniel

Hi all, I've been a fan of the forum for a long time. WIth a little research I usually find what I'm looking for without needlessly cluttering up a forum. I have scoured the internet, gone through manuals & Chilton's, but I have been stuck lately with a light problem...

My problems:
1. Brake warning light remains on while car is running. (Break lights themselves work perfectly though).
2. Shift lock is stuck. (Meaning I have to press the orange "Shift lock release ****" while I'm shifting my car out of park).

My Attempts at a solution:
-Yes, I am absolutely positive my emergency brake is not engaged.
-The brake fluid is halfway between min and max.
-I replaced all brake lights and checked the fuses. Brake lights themselves work perfectly.
-I took out the brake light stop switch. I can manually depress the switch and the brake lights work, yet the warning light still remains on.
-I removed the center console and manually pressed the "Parking brake warning lamp switch plate" with no success.

The inside of the console is pretty damn dirty...If a soda spilled down the console could the receptacle for the warning lamp switch plate underneath the parking brake short out? Should I just go ahead and replace the brake light switch? Any advice is welcome!

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

shift lock could be physical or electronic, if its physical the spring in the shifter button is conked up and you need to readjust it or replace it. if its not that, theres something electronic (solenoid i think or something) that needs replacing

brake warning light as in ABS light? could be just a ABS sensor having issues, i know after i slammed my 3rd gen the ABS light would be on always and i lost my ABS (thank god). a sensor was causing it but i hate ABS

Maxkiller

Do your brakes feel at all spongey?

Mattx4

i have looked again and again to find the source of my transmission leak. i think it is coming from "the round thing" in the upper left of this pic.. what is this round thing and why might it be leaking?? i have checked all cooler lines and pretty much everything else i can see... also i would like to do a tranny flush/fluid change. is it a good idea to just let a shop do it?? i'm not too familiar with front wheel drive transmissions and wouldn't know where to start since this transmission doesn't have a "traditional" pan underneath.. i know there is a magnet somewhere that collects metal shavings but i don't know where it is... can anyone help me out here? thanks.

jbbons25

iTrader: (2)

That circular part you're mentioning is the servo piston that controls the brake band inside the transmission. When activated, pressurized fluid goes inside that section and pushes against the piston, which then tightens the band and grabs on a drum. Most likely the leak is because the seal is worn out and may need to be replaced, but I'm not sure if it can be done easily because doing so may release the pin from the brake band and I'm not sure if it's easy to set it again.

The magnet is on the drain plug itself (square-hole circular part on the bottom).

Just like with any other transmissions, it is not recommended to do a flush. Just a drain and fill and you're good to go. You can do it youself since all you need is a pan, 1/2" ratchet and about 4-5 quarts of ATF.

Mattx4

so just drain and fill? my fluid is pretty burnt, i was really looking forward to flushing it all out. my car has 150,000+ miles and i'm not sure if it's ever been changed. no slipping or anything though. also, is there any type of filter on this transmission? has anyone else had this problem or have any idea how hard it is to fix??

jbbons25

iTrader: (2)

There is a filter inside the transmission, but it requires splitting open the transmission to get to it so don't bother getting to it.

It's never a good idea to do a flush on a high mileage transmission. The all clean transmission fluid will start to break down more of the clutch material than the half clean half old fluid, so the transmission slipping is bound to happen sooner than a drain and fill.

Now that you mentioned that your fluid is burnt, it's recommended to not drain it at all and drive it until it goes out, especially if you find a lot of metal on the magnet for the same reason as mentioned above.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

there is a filter, i had my trans modded at about 425,000km to fully drain the torque converter and the rest of the trans, swapped it to Royal Purple ATF. trans acted way better afterwards, ive been told the dont flush on older transmissions is a myth.

im not saying fully flush it if youre not comfortable with it, but mine acted better after a full flush and it was a high mileage auto GXE tranny. trans **** out at 429k bogging out sometimes in 1st, but i drove the hell out of that thing lol. i think if i didnt swap ATF fluids it would have crapped out alot earlier

Mattx4

i was thinking about going to a quick lube place and just doin their standard 97% tranny flush.. i have a little clunk going into gear from park and also from 1st to 2nd, but i am almost positive it is due to a pair of extremely worn cv axles that i'm replacing tomorrow. another thing, when i pull these CVs; am i gonna dump tranny fluid everywhere?? if this is the case then i don't wanna do it in my in law's garage... lol

Darin Jordan

Hi Gang...

My 1991 Nissan Maxima speedo suddenly started acting strangely...

When the car goes into motion, forwards OR backwards, the speedo jumps up to 35 almost instantly. As I accelerate, it goes to 45, and just stays there.

The odometer works fine and appears to be registering correctly.

I've read that the electronic speed sensor can fail in these, but I would think that if it were failing, the odometers would stop working as well.

Had the instrument cluster out this weekend and pulled the speedo and I can't see any obvious issues with it.

Does it sound like I need to get a new speedometer unit, or is there something else on these cars that is typical of them that this problem would indicate, and what do I need to do to get the speedo working correctly again??

Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

~Darin

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

1st to 2nd used to be rough especially at low RPM but on Royal Purple it got alot better, it also used to hate going from reverse to drive and i would have to let it sit in neutral for a second first, but with Royal Purple it went away

the only thing that developed afterwards was rarely from reverse to drive there would be a knock, checked it out and it wasnt motor mounts or anything just the trans itself

Smithgsx

I seem to be running into this problem that is quite irritating. i have a 93 maxima, VE30DE, with the full Bose system in it. the Bose tape deck is dead, so im trying to replace it with a new one. my problem is; no deck seems to be working. i have the main wiring hooked up right, but there are 3 ground wires (i have the wiring install kit) because it has 2 seperate plugs for it, and i try to ground the "amp ground" and "chassis ground" to different places, and nothing happens. i just pulled the deck out of another car working perfectly, now it wont even power up. i REALLY want this done asap, so any help is appreciated. wiring diagrams or step by step with details would be awesome.

Stargate476

ordered my ypipe and cat from warpspeed, just waiting for it to come in, anyway my stock pipe and bolts are really rusted to the point cant see threads on cat bolts being that they are 20 years old. and i assume the bolts to the manifolds arent to good but idk Will some liquid wrench or pb blaster and a breaker bar be enough to get these off? maybe wire brush? dont want to attempt and snap the bolts or anything, or what would you recommend? would exhaust shop just remove or loosen bolts/nuts for me if thats better? im fully capable of doing it myself and trying to save some money doing it this way, dont really wanna pay a shop to do this :/


sorry for so many questions, just dont wanna go breaking anything due to rust thanks for anyone who has done this and can help me (:

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

PB Blaster is beautiful stuff. spray it on the base of the nut head, and the threads. let sit for a while (20-30 minutes). spray again (head and threads), go away for a while, again. should break free.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

easiest way is to torch them yourself or get a garage to, we do it all the time at work. liquid wrench wont do a whole lot, gotta heat them up and then spray them with cool water and they'll come off

when i got my old 3rd gens suspension fully redone, it was a bomb of rusted and seized nuts and bolts. just gotta heat em up

boldm28

hi guys i want to replace the tail light lens " reverse" clear/white , which is on the trunk when the trunk opens caused it is broken . I have the replacement lens ready .. can you guys let me know how it is done

TIA

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

gotta go to the 4th gen section, this is the 3rd gen section

but if its like most taillights, im guessing theres bolts in the trunk and black goop holding it down

MaxKGB

iTrader: (1)

So I wan't to get some rims for my 93se but I thought it would be best to double check the specs with you guys before i blow all my money. I think these should be good but could I get some feedback on this. thanks!

(Number of Bolts 5)
(Rim Width: 7)
(Bolt Pattern: 5x100, 5x114.3)
(Rim Diameter: 17)
(Hub Bore: 73.1)
(Offset: 40)

boldm28

thnaks

Mattx4

on this car, the antenna hookup for the radio acts as a ground in many cases. try plugging it in as your ground... 9 times out of 10 this is the case if other ground wires don't work. otherwise, you can grind off a little paint somewhere and make your own ground. also, a standard deck won't power the bose speakers, you have to get aftermarket speakers. and when you hook them up, you have to be sure to bypass the stock amplifiers that are hooked up to each speaker. hope this helps...

Mattx4

also, as always, check and be sure that you didn't burn up a fuse. if you have a multi-meter you can find the 2 power wires that you need fairly easily. with the install kit they should be yellow and red. yellow= accesories red=constant.... or vise versa.. lol. not sure how many car stereos you've hooked up, but be sure the car is in the on position when you attemp to turn on the stereo.. that's about all there is to it.

Deolarte

Hello, Maxima community,

I am here because I need you help. I currently own a nissan maxima 1993 gxe with 74K miles. I purchased it 4 months ago and every thing worked except my tachometer. It would be all over the place but payed no attention since engine temp gauge was still good. Just recently my odometer, speedometer and mileage indicator have given out, one by one they do not read anything. I have only replaced my pcv valve, airfilter, front brakes,front right ball breaing and spoiler. Im currently a student, and Im on tight budget, So im currently using a mobile android app as a speedometer and odometer, But I would like to replace my intrument panel if needed, as many post suggest. But I would like to get a cheap after market solution and hopefully one of the digital ones posted on some pics. If any one could please steer me in the right direction I would really appreciate it. Thank you very much and hope to hear from you soon.

Stargate476

well ebay usually has a few clusters for our cars for sale so you could check that, they are usually under $100.. the digital ones are harder to find and you may need to look in some junkyards to find one of those, and if you dont have a digital cluster already youll need to do the conversion, http://www.caraudiohelp.com/nissan_m...d_tutorial.htm

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

if you have a digital cluster already, i have a spare one. ive never tested it but it came out of a clean Brougham that looked older person owned. if you want it just give me $10+ shipping

if you have a analog gauge now dont bother, you have to switch the fuel float and wiring for a digital cluster and its a ton of work. same song and dance ive got a Canadian KM/H SE cluster for cheap since i dont have a Maxima anymore

Deolarte

Thank You, I actually don't have a digital, I thought the conversion would be easier, but I guess not. Thanks though I appreciate your help, I will try looking for an analog then. Thank you very much.

Edit: By any chance do you know of any aftermarket cluster that will fit, There isnt any oem in ebay at the moment.

I found this: http://www.justparts.com/Auto_Parts/...RUMENT-CLUSTER idk what abs is refering to: anti-lock brakes?

Deolarte

Thanks for your help, I guess I will stick with the analog since it seems like a pain to to the conversion.