Altec

The heater side will never send a signal of 0. Even when they go bad the reading will go up most of the time.

The sensor side reads voltage. No real reason to check ohm reading anyway.

elusivemax93

Oh dang my bad your right it's not ohms but volts my bad but it does show zero one zero one in volts. The signal sent is a digital signal of zero one zero one.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

he said his engine is dual overhead so its a VE

nyc_ink

iTrader: (1)

im changing my injectors and do not know which gasket/'s im gonna need.
names and pics would help a lot. thanks

would i need all of these?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fel-P...#ht_2320wt_941

jbbons25

iTrader: (2)

The top and middle gaskets, yes. Not the bottom gaskets.

If you get the injectors from a parts store, they might come with the o-rings and insulator (refer color to picture). If you get the injectors from the dealer, they won't be included. But both places won't include the insulators that seat the fuel rail to the lower intake manifold, and I recommend getting them from the dealer.



While you're at it, I would also recommend getting gaskets for the throttle body and EGR if the intake is dirty. This was my intake back November when I had to change an injector.





Had to separate the throttle and EGR from the intake to thoroughly clean the intake as the inside was dirty.

nyc_ink

iTrader: (1)

thanks man. should i remove the fuel rail or can i just take the injectors out?
the bad injectors are the 1st and 3rd in the front.

jbbons25

iTrader: (2)

You can take out the injectors while the fuel rail is still bolted onto the manifold, but with the age of our cars I would also consider changing those bottom bushings. Better safe than sorry.

redhunter

Also, the injectors can be tricky to get out with the fuel rail in place. I purchased injector washer sets from NAPA when I replaced all 6 injectors of mine recently. They were about $5 each and although my new injectors came with one or two of the rubber washers the washer set came with the bottom and top bushings. While the OP has the manifold off, he may want to consider replacing fuel injector hoses on the fuel rail and to the gas filter. These hoses can leak around this age. The only other suggestions would be to replace rocker cover gaskets if leaking and any vacuum hoses that are cracked.

nyc_ink

iTrader: (1)

im looking online for the dimension of the vacuum hose cuz i want to replace all of mine but cant fit find ****.

anyone know the dimension/size the vacuum hose's are?

jbbons25

iTrader: (2)

If I remember, 5/32" will take care of the EGR, power valve and water **** valve. Can't remember the correct size for the canister and the hose that goes from the intake manifold to the water **** valve.

txsilverado1

(1993 VG30 MAX) Is it true that the engine should die when the MAF is unplugged? I thought it should continue to run, but not rev over 2k RPM. "That is what my car did. I swapped with an unknown condition MAF and the no-power issue did not change at all." I assumed the MAF was good since the symptoms did not change at all with either MAF.

nyc_ink

iTrader: (1)

i did this the other day to check mine. when the MAF is good and working when you unplug it the engine will die. if its bad and not working the engine will stay on.

nyc_ink

iTrader: (1)

so far i've heard 3/16 and 5/32
these are the only 2 sizes?

txsilverado1

Anyone done valve seals on a VG30 without taking the heads off?

kyles2ndmax

hey does anyone know if the trunk lid from 3rd and 4th gen can be swapped(easily)

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

nope, youre gonna be looking at lots of custom work as well, and if you dont do it right, you'll just get leaks allover

kyles2ndmax

aight thanks. any clue where i maybe able to find aftermarket tail light, oh and by the way its a 93

elusivemax93

They dont make aftermarket for the third gen.

kyles2ndmax

k thanks

elusivemax93

It's called custom fabricating anything you wanna put on.some do skyline trail lights and two have done subaru impreza tail lights all custom done. Trunk is a no go with out mass amounts of fabricating and body work.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

there have been no aftermarket tails for 3rd gens, albeit apparently some people 10 years ago got altezzas from a company but i dont know if that was true or not

closest thing you can do is give them a light tint, but you can also fab R33 Skyline taillights in because they have a similar shape (Jonmandude IIRC is the guy with a white 3rd gen with R33 tails). a guy on here was also making LED 3rd gen taillights out of factory housings, but i asked about a set and never heard anything so i dunno

if you cant work well with metal and weld, youre gonna pay out of the **** to get some custom tails in

kingscrappy

If anybody can tell me where the knock sensor is located on the VE engine because I seen it change on a 96 max with a VE engine and it was located inside the intake manifold. I'm look to change this part soon so a picture would be great for this. Thanks again

Starrider_1

I have a great car...94gxe maxima. 110k miles on the speedometer and only two small door dings on the sides. Otherwise perfect. As far as repairs...replaced one air flow meter in the air intake via dealer.....

Current problem...possible water leak... been driving the car daily...long trips etc...then the other day after shutting down...heard gurgling or bubbling noise...finally found out there was NO WATER in the radiator...almost bone dry. So going to replace all the hoses...have done that already one time several years ago.

Dealer was unable to get all nine major pieces (one being either the upper or lower radiator hose) .....

Question: where does one get oem molded radiator hoses for these old cars? or any other parts ...what are some good vendors to order from???

ps. Personally think the third gen. max is the best...

jbbons25

iTrader: (2)

For the VE, it's in the same spot as the VQ, under the manifold.

nyc_ink

iTrader: (1)

is there a diagram with the location and size of the hoses?
i still dont know what size to buy.
im doing my injectors and want to replace old vacuums lines

Starrider_1

IS THERE A WATER HOSE DIAGRAM FOR THE 94GXE???

elusivemax93

Go to autozone and have them look up cooling system diagram.

got_sixth

has anyone changed there timing chain? how hard is this from 1-10 and how many hours am i looking at?

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

depends, do you want to do the water pump, crank angle sensor, thermostat, etc. while the engine is out?

if you have taken a engine out before and know a fair bit, it shouldnt be too hard with a bit of help. if you have never taken a engine out and dont know much about motors, i wouldnt even try unless you can get someone on here who knows alot to guide you.

so if you have never taken a engine out and dont know much on engines, i would give it 9-9.5/10 to do. if you know how to remove a engine and know the basics of a engine, 4/10

got_sixth

i have taken out 4 motors but they were 4 cylinder engines. do i have to remove the engine to replace the chain?

Venzo

My turn flashers recently stopped working in my 1992 Maxima SE. And i mean completely stopped working, no tick noise from the flasher unit or anything.

--- Which brings my to my question---

I have spent the past two days looking for the flasher relay unit and can't find it for the life of me. I purchased a Haynes repair manual, and the picture they show in the manual as being the flasher relay is no where to be found under my dash. I've looked all over various Nissan forums and website and have found quite a few different answers as to "WHAT" the flasher unit is and "WHERE" it's located!

godisgood

1990 Maxima

My temperature gauge is slow to give me a reading. It shows the temperature without fluctuating or anything, but it takes a minute to show anything at all. Not saying that it stays low before it gets to avg operating temp. The needle is laying down flat, not even in the range of the gauge until the engine runs for a minute or two. Then it raises right up and works fine... Any ideas?

Also my heater isn't working. Still troubleshooting that, going to check the wiring and electrical side of the heater system tomorrow. Thinking it could be related?

thanks.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

yes, you have to remove the engine to replace timing belts and chains, hence why garages charge $1000+ just to do the belt and water pump, theyre simple cheap parts but youre just getting raped by the labour of taking out the engine

does it do this when you drive for 20 minutes, turn it off for 5 minutes and then start it again? if so, thats weird. if when you first start it up or start it up after sitting for a few hours it does this, thats normal.

is your heater not blowing air at all or just not not blowing hot air?

jbbons25

iTrader: (2)

I was able to do the timing belt with the engine in the car just fine. I would think this would apply for the VE and its timing chain as well.

OGADCLH

my 93 GXE keeps draining my battery. however i had the alternator replaced and put in a new battery. yet the lights inside and out keep dimming while driving. could be some problem with the wiring?

nyc_ink

iTrader: (1)

2 Q's

1. what can i use to glue back on the metal strip that goes on the intake manifold (the one thats says 3000) ?

2.what would a straight pipe do in general , instead of buying a catalytic converter? (go faster, louder muffler, guzzle gas)

kingscrappy

Well could you offer me any pictures of how to get to it. I would greatly appreciate it.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

most people on here who straight piped ended up regretting it, its really loud

nyc_ink

iTrader: (1)

is it true if i get the 2.5" ID warpspeed cat that the exhaust doesn't flow out right if the tail pipe is 2.0" ID. supposably since the release from the cat is 2.5 all of the exhaust wont flow out right away cuz the entrance of the tail pipe is smaller so exhaust stay in the cat and it'll make the cat vibrate or something like that.

just want to see if this true or not cause i really dont know

Starrider_1

Hi Guys... the freeways are in need of repair in some places...when i hit a rough spot the front end really hits hard!!!...I have 110k miles on the clock...and thinkin i need new struts???...For freeway driving to soften those pot holes ...what brand of struts do you recommend??? Monroe...is there a more favorite on this site? Thanks in advance...