*NOOBIES* The "I am new here,but have a question" thread..(post your questions here)
01-31-2011, 09:49 AM
#6161
Hi Guys... the freeways are in need of repair in some places...when i hit a rough spot the front end really hits hard!!!...I have 110k miles on the clock...and thinkin i need new struts???...For freeway driving to soften those pot holes ...what brand of struts do you recommend??? Monroe...is there a more favorite on this site? Thanks in advance...
02-01-2011, 05:08 PM
#6164
do you really mean "belt"? if that's the case, then just do it with the engine in the car. takes more time than the engine out, but it's less time than removing and installing the engine.
02-01-2011, 08:39 PM
#6166
02-03-2011, 07:11 PM
#6167
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 17
the motor has 208k miles and the timing chain is stretched so its smacking all around under my valve cover. i was thinking bout changing the chain but the chain is 300 and a motor is 800. the motor has 208k miles so the valve seals might be bad, the oil pump could fail, gaskets might be bad, rings might be gone, or even the valves might be bent. u never kno. and wit a used motor i get a 101 day warranty.
02-04-2011, 07:44 PM
#6168
the motor has 208k miles and the timing chain is stretched so its smacking all around under my valve cover. i was thinking bout changing the chain but the chain is 300 and a motor is 800. the motor has 208k miles so the valve seals might be bad, the oil pump could fail, gaskets might be bad, rings might be gone, or even the valves might be bent. u never kno. and wit a used motor i get a 101 day warranty.
you sure you aren't hearing VTC clack? parts to fix will cost about $100, plus a weekend of your time.
oh, and "chain" for $300? go to courtestyparts.com, get all three (yes, three) chains for under $200.
02-05-2011, 01:26 AM
#6169
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 17
you know what i think ur right. i been reading about the vtc and how the spring goes bad and im postive that what it is as of today my motor quieted up.
02-05-2011, 04:05 AM
#6170
1990 Maxima
My temperature gauge is slow to give me a reading. It shows the temperature without fluctuating or anything, but it takes a minute to show anything at all. Not saying that it stays low before it gets to avg operating temp. The needle is laying down flat, not even in the range of the gauge until the engine runs for a minute or two. Then it raises right up and works fine... Any ideas?
Also my heater isn't working. Still troubleshooting that, going to check the wiring and electrical side of the heater system tomorrow. Thinking it could be related?
thanks.
My temperature gauge is slow to give me a reading. It shows the temperature without fluctuating or anything, but it takes a minute to show anything at all. Not saying that it stays low before it gets to avg operating temp. The needle is laying down flat, not even in the range of the gauge until the engine runs for a minute or two. Then it raises right up and works fine... Any ideas?
Also my heater isn't working. Still troubleshooting that, going to check the wiring and electrical side of the heater system tomorrow. Thinking it could be related?
thanks.
02-05-2011, 08:53 AM
#6171
02-05-2011, 05:36 PM
#6172
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 2
I bought a 93 off craigslist with "some" electrical issues. It was cheap so I thought "why not??" Turns out several of the wires in the relay box by the battery had melted together. I've gone through and replaced anything that showed any type of damage from the firewall forward to the relay/fuse box. Originally my fuel pump would not come on when the key turned. I found that the red/blue wire going to the safety relay was not getting to ground. When I spliced it in and connected directly to ground, the fuel pump came on and functioned, but will not turn back off unless the key turns off. I understand I have bypassed the pressure switch and would normally turn the fuel pump back off after pressurization is achieved. What I can't find in the manual is why I'm not getting any spark to my spark plugs when the key is turned. I have voltage up to my distributor but no spark. Is there/where is the safety switch related to inaccurate fuel supply to the injectors? Any help in diagnosing this problem would be helpful.
02-05-2011, 06:04 PM
#6173
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 17
My 1990 Nissan Maxima GXE
Hi my 90 GXE is dying. I had it checked out because it was missing like crazy and sputtering. Had no power. My mechanis told me that it had low compression on the number 5 cylinder. I don't want to get rid of the car but he told me he doesn't know how much longer the car will last with that engine. I want to do and engine swap, but I don't want the same thing to happen all over again. Is there any way that a newer max engine could be put in? like one from a 4th gen, or 5th gen? If so is it really difficult? If it's not possible, anybody know where I could find a used or rebuilt engine from the third gen? The car is actually my wifes, but I claim it as my own. Just an awesome little car. We just got a 2000 SE. Anyway, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
02-05-2011, 06:36 PM
#6174
I bought a 93 off craigslist with "some" electrical issues. It was cheap so I thought "why not??" Turns out several of the wires in the relay box by the battery had melted together. I've gone through and replaced anything that showed any type of damage from the firewall forward to the relay/fuse box. Originally my fuel pump would not come on when the key turned. I found that the red/blue wire going to the safety relay was not getting to ground. When I spliced it in and connected directly to ground, the fuel pump came on and functioned, but will not turn back off unless the key turns off. I understand I have bypassed the pressure switch and would normally turn the fuel pump back off after pressurization is achieved. What I can't find in the manual is why I'm not getting any spark to my spark plugs when the key is turned. I have voltage up to my distributor but no spark. Is there/where is the safety switch related to inaccurate fuel supply to the injectors? Any help in diagnosing this problem would be helpful.
Hi my 90 GXE is dying. I had it checked out because it was missing like crazy and sputtering. Had no power. My mechanis told me that it had low compression on the number 5 cylinder. I don't want to get rid of the car but he told me he doesn't know how much longer the car will last with that engine. I want to do and engine swap, but I don't want the same thing to happen all over again. Is there any way that a newer max engine could be put in? like one from a 4th gen, or 5th gen? If so is it really difficult? If it's not possible, anybody know where I could find a used or rebuilt engine from the third gen? The car is actually my wifes, but I claim it as my own. Just an awesome little car. We just got a 2000 SE. Anyway, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
best bet would be a rebuild or a used engine. Where are you from? might help to track down a new(er) motor.
02-05-2011, 11:52 PM
#6176
Hi my 90 GXE is dying. I had it checked out because it was missing like crazy and sputtering. Had no power. My mechanis told me that it had low compression on the number 5 cylinder. I don't want to get rid of the car but he told me he doesn't know how much longer the car will last with that engine. I want to do and engine swap, but I don't want the same thing to happen all over again. Is there any way that a newer max engine could be put in? like one from a 4th gen, or 5th gen? If so is it really difficult? If it's not possible, anybody know where I could find a used or rebuilt engine from the third gen? The car is actually my wifes, but I claim it as my own. Just an awesome little car. We just got a 2000 SE. Anyway, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
02-06-2011, 07:11 AM
#6177
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 17
Okay. I thought maybe that would do it to. My mechanic said that it doesn't feel like the injectors. I know the third generation was notorious for injector issues though. So I don't know what to do.
02-06-2011, 09:52 AM
#6178
02-06-2011, 05:39 PM
#6179
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 17
Okay. the funny thing is that before, it would only do all the hesitation and missing sometimes. Like when I would start it first thing in the morning, it would run smooth like it's supposed to. It would drive smooth. Then I park and let it sit for like 20 minutes or so, it would start the missing and loss of power. Now it just does it all the time. I just took the tags off it and put them on our 2000 SE. Would injectors cause the low compression? Or am I better off just trying to find another engine? I have no idea how many miles are on the car. When my wife got it, before she met me, the odometer didn't work. Its been at 74,000 ever since she got it. So who knows how many miles it has.
02-07-2011, 08:02 AM
#6181
Okay. the funny thing is that before, it would only do all the hesitation and missing sometimes. Like when I would start it first thing in the morning, it would run smooth like it's supposed to. It would drive smooth. Then I park and let it sit for like 20 minutes or so, it would start the missing and loss of power. Now it just does it all the time. I just took the tags off it and put them on our 2000 SE. Would injectors cause the low compression? Or am I better off just trying to find another engine? I have no idea how many miles are on the car. When my wife got it, before she met me, the odometer didn't work. Its been at 74,000 ever since she got it. So who knows how many miles it has.
Originally Posted by madmax123
call me stupid but i dont know where to go or how to post a thread
02-07-2011, 10:36 AM
#6182
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: midland city AL.
Posts: 74
yep still sounds like its injectors, you have to test and see if theyre all in ohm, and then you can weed out one one(s) that are bad. definitely not worth a new engine
click on the 3rd gen section, and near the bottom left of the page there should be a post a thread button like this
click on the 3rd gen section, and near the bottom left of the page there should be a post a thread button like this
02-08-2011, 12:53 PM
#6183
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2
1992 Maxima Runs Pig Rich
Hey guys, I'm not really familiar with Nissan. I'm working on a customer's car. It's a '92 Maxima with a 24 valve 3.0 and a 5 speed manual. When the guy brought the car to me, it had a blown up engine and it didn't run, I'm not sure if there were any problems beforehand, I just put an engine in it and I'm having problems with it.
Here's what I've done, I've replaced the knock sensor, the coil packs, O2 sensors, fuel injectors, new spark plugs, fuel filter, new vacuum lines. I looked on here how to get codes, and I turned the little thing on the computer and got a code for a shorted MAF sensor. So I unplugged it and it runs better. I replaced the sensor and I've disconnected the battery to reset everything. It still runs the same. All ground wires are hooked up. I've double checked all connections. It runs exactly the same. It dumps fuel into all of the cylinders to the point of flooding the engine and fouling the plugs. It still runs better with the MAF sensor unplugged, but what are the chances of a new MAF sensor is also defective? Anyway, I'm looking for some input because right now I am at a loss. I'll try a new MAF sensor since it's guaranteed for life. But I doubt that will be the fix. Thanks in advance for input!
~Lincolnmania
Here's what I've done, I've replaced the knock sensor, the coil packs, O2 sensors, fuel injectors, new spark plugs, fuel filter, new vacuum lines. I looked on here how to get codes, and I turned the little thing on the computer and got a code for a shorted MAF sensor. So I unplugged it and it runs better. I replaced the sensor and I've disconnected the battery to reset everything. It still runs the same. All ground wires are hooked up. I've double checked all connections. It runs exactly the same. It dumps fuel into all of the cylinders to the point of flooding the engine and fouling the plugs. It still runs better with the MAF sensor unplugged, but what are the chances of a new MAF sensor is also defective? Anyway, I'm looking for some input because right now I am at a loss. I'll try a new MAF sensor since it's guaranteed for life. But I doubt that will be the fix. Thanks in advance for input!
~Lincolnmania
02-08-2011, 02:11 PM
#6184
Hey guys, I'm not really familiar with Nissan. I'm working on a customer's car. It's a '92 Maxima with a 24 valve 3.0 and a 5 speed manual. When the guy brought the car to me, it had a blown up engine and it didn't run, I'm not sure if there were any problems beforehand, I just put an engine in it and I'm having problems with it.
Here's what I've done, I've replaced the knock sensor, the coil packs, O2 sensors, fuel injectors, new spark plugs, fuel filter, new vacuum lines. I looked on here how to get codes, and I turned the little thing on the computer and got a code for a shorted MAF sensor. So I unplugged it and it runs better. I replaced the sensor and I've disconnected the battery to reset everything. It still runs the same. All ground wires are hooked up. I've double checked all connections. It runs exactly the same. It dumps fuel into all of the cylinders to the point of flooding the engine and fouling the plugs. It still runs better with the MAF sensor unplugged, but what are the chances of a new MAF sensor is also defective? Anyway, I'm looking for some input because right now I am at a loss. I'll try a new MAF sensor since it's guaranteed for life. But I doubt that will be the fix. Thanks in advance for input!
~Lincolnmania
Here's what I've done, I've replaced the knock sensor, the coil packs, O2 sensors, fuel injectors, new spark plugs, fuel filter, new vacuum lines. I looked on here how to get codes, and I turned the little thing on the computer and got a code for a shorted MAF sensor. So I unplugged it and it runs better. I replaced the sensor and I've disconnected the battery to reset everything. It still runs the same. All ground wires are hooked up. I've double checked all connections. It runs exactly the same. It dumps fuel into all of the cylinders to the point of flooding the engine and fouling the plugs. It still runs better with the MAF sensor unplugged, but what are the chances of a new MAF sensor is also defective? Anyway, I'm looking for some input because right now I am at a loss. I'll try a new MAF sensor since it's guaranteed for life. But I doubt that will be the fix. Thanks in advance for input!
~Lincolnmania
02-08-2011, 09:23 PM
#6186
1.turn ur car on
2.wear gloves
3. pull out ur spark plug cables out one at a time, unplug one then plug it back then move to the next. which ever one makes the car lose power like staggering is the good injector, if it does nothing at all when u unplug it thats a bad injector. thats how u tell which one is bad or good. hope this helps.
02-09-2011, 06:23 PM
#6187
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 17
this is what you do:
1.turn ur car on
2.wear gloves
3. pull out ur spark plug cables out one at a time, unplug one then plug it back then move to the next. which ever one makes the car lose power like staggering is the good injector, if it does nothing at all when u unplug it thats a bad injector. thats how u tell which one is bad or good. hope this helps.
1.turn ur car on
2.wear gloves
3. pull out ur spark plug cables out one at a time, unplug one then plug it back then move to the next. which ever one makes the car lose power like staggering is the good injector, if it does nothing at all when u unplug it thats a bad injector. thats how u tell which one is bad or good. hope this helps.
02-09-2011, 09:20 PM
#6188
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 20
The Swap
Well I was wondering have anybody on here did the swap from an 3rd gen engine to a 4th gen engine. I'm very curious to do this swap but I want to know will everything match up such as lines to even the transmission. The more information I have the better. Also at the moment I'm trying to change the knock sensor on my VE engine and I want to know what tools do I need to remove the intake manifold so I can get to it. Thanks in advance.
02-09-2011, 09:33 PM
#6189
Well I was wondering have anybody on here did the swap from an 3rd gen engine to a 4th gen engine. I'm very curious to do this swap but I want to know will everything match up such as lines to even the transmission. The more information I have the better. Also at the moment I'm trying to change the knock sensor on my VE engine and I want to know what tools do I need to remove the intake manifold so I can get to it. Thanks in advance.
if you want more power honestly its easier to boost
02-11-2011, 09:24 AM
#6190
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: florida
Posts: 16
better question: why do you need to replace the chain? it is not a maintenance item. it's like swapping out crank bearings. you only do it when rebuilding the motor.
do you really mean "belt"? if that's the case, then just do it with the engine in the car. takes more time than the engine out, but it's less time than removing and installing the engine.
do you really mean "belt"? if that's the case, then just do it with the engine in the car. takes more time than the engine out, but it's less time than removing and installing the engine.
Timing chains are not life of vehicle parts, I have broken 2 in my time of building cars.
02-13-2011, 04:48 PM
#6191
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 20
Knock Sensor again
I wanted to know is the knock sensor located underneath the intake manifold because I'm going to change it tomorrow. So the more information I know about it the better. If any of you all have a picture of its location that would be great. Thanks in advance again.
02-13-2011, 06:04 PM
#6192
To replace an engine simply because of a bad chain is too drastic and maybe overly **** lol goodluck tho man!
02-19-2011, 07:36 AM
#6195
Banned
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Okc 405
Posts: 999
Lol @ the timing chain being non servicable lol. Goes to show what Benstoked does and doesnt know. Oh wait Benstoked owns a vg I forget, lmfao noob. Only the newer nissan have the self adjusting chains man the old ve's have to be changed out one time becuase they are not self adjusting.
02-19-2011, 07:39 AM
#6196
Banned
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Okc 405
Posts: 999
02-24-2011, 11:09 PM
#6199
i dont have a spoiler so i dont know this and thats why im asking just incase a smartass says measure it.
does anyone know the length size of the spoiler for our car?
i also want to know where the holes are to screw it on.
does anyone know the length size of the spoiler for our car?
i also want to know where the holes are to screw it on.
02-26-2011, 07:32 AM
#6200
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 25
my 90 max recently has been acting up. the car will just not start without a jump. The battery is fine i pulled one out of another vehicle i own just to test and all it does is wind once then nothing. The altenators fine because once the car is up and running everything stays running.(even tho when i pull the negative off while running the car instantly dies, think that test only works with some cars.) but yesterday when this first happend i would turn the lights on while driving and the radio shut off and so did the other interior lights not just the radio. and it turned back on but shut right back off. when i would turn the lights back off it would turn on and stay on. i figured short but i have a feeling somthing else is wrong. I think it may be a bad starter or a loose wire to the starter. Please give me input because im at a stand still here and want ssomeones opinion before i start ripping apart the wiring and replacing the starter.