Byron1989

Hey guys you may have covered this but I have a 1990 Maxima SE that I just bought and it has roughly 168,000 miles on it. It was owned buy an elderly person as far as I know so it has never been driven hard. It sat for eight months and I just had a tune up done within the past week.

It shakes pretty bad at idle(only when its in drive and at a complete stop)

Its rpm reading at idle is about 800 when this happens. Any advice or suggestions?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

few things I would check:
motor mounts
vacuum leaks
fuel injectors/fuel filter

Byron1989

Okay and i forgot to mention that it makes a low chugging sound when accelerating at low speeds.
I hope its not the injectors, I heard that they can be expensive. I'm operating on a college stundent budget right now so there isn't much "disposable income' over here.
I will check all three of the suggestions tho...

Maxkiller

Is there still old fuel from the car sitting in the tank?

Deolarte

Hello I posted about my speedometer yesterday and currrently am in a search of a intrument cluster. But I would like to know, which is the best way to determine if it is the intrument panel or speed sensor. My speedometer stopped working and it went on intermentently for 2 days, then my odometer gave out with it the next day. could it be the sensor since both of them went out?Thanks

Byron1989

Nah...all of that was driven out on the ride home and I had a tune up last week.
It makes a chugging sound when accelerating from a low speed. I've listened closely when driving it and as it idles and I do not hear anything out of the ordinary. The motor is very quiet but it shakes at idle speed(when its in DRIVE and also Reverse as of today) and it chugs when accelerating.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

wrong forum man.....two floor up from this one...

howirole

This isn't a question more so a statement, tonight my 1992 maxima se was sold. As in mine i mean my parents they owned it and somebody came by wanting to buy it. The car had 149,000 on it and was supposed to be my first car. After severe hail damage i got a rustang to drive. No I dont like the stang as much. I already miss the car well my dad has a 5th gen might try gettin it

MaxKGB

iTrader: (1)

Nah...all of that was driven out on the ride home and I had a tune up last week.
It makes a chugging sound when accelerating from a low speed. I've listened closely when driving it and as it idles and I do not hear anything out of the ordinary. The motor is very quiet but it shakes at idle speed(when its in DRIVE and also Reverse as of today) and it chugs when accelerating.


I had a similar situation that resulted in drilling out five broken manifold studs. That was particularly terrible but exhaust leaks can produce that chugging at low speeds/rpm. Hopefully its an easier fix than studs tho. Maybe it just needs a new y pipe... perhaps warpspeed id take a look for an exhaust leak.

Maxkiller

Are you getting any codes from your ecu?

newbie_maxima

i have a 93 maxima GXE i have a few issues

1 i have a raw gas smell coming from the front of the car
replaced fuel filter still smell it
did a tune up (wires,plugs,cap,rotor,and coil) and still smell it

2 when my car is at the lowest point of the gas guage at e i can still drive for 20 miles or so and the gas light does not come on

3 as with #2 i am at the lowest point of E and i put 11 gallons of gas in my car and it takes it to 3/4 tank when my tank is an 18.5 gallon tank

4 my fuel milage stinks i am getting about 12-14mpg city highway does not seem to be much more than city

5 SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME

newbie_maxima

I want to make a cat back exhaust for my maxima what is the best size to go with i already have a greddy evo II axle back on it i want to make it sound really nice

JD Sk8

Hey guys, got a nice 93 coil over 3.0L DOHC but it's developed some random misfires that are getting increasingly worse. It seems to be dropping cylinders. I checked the codes but it's showing me Code 55 - no malfunction. 2 of the 6 plugs are damp, 1 is wet (both banks) I've checked the MAF everything looks good. Only changes in the intake has been a cold air kit and the only change in the exhaust is a high flow muffler. Exhaust has become dark and smells of unburned fuel.
i'd lean toward a restricted cat but has plenty of exhaust pressure at the back. Any Ideas?

Maxkiller

Injectors. Test them with a multimeter for resistance between 10-14 ohms. Anything seriously either side of that means your Injectors are stuffed. If not, it may be the o-rings have been installed incorrectly.

Logan_Gibson

iTrader: (2)

can anyone tell me what the correct tire size would be for 4th generation maxima wheels on my maxima? would it be the 215/65/16? or would it be 205/65/16? or what I am kinda confused and cant seem to find anything in the search.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

i searched it and got 205/65

jbbons25

iTrader: (2)

For the 4th gen 16" wheels its 215/55/16. 15" is 205/65/15

newbie_maxima

i am looking for ways to cool down my maxima temperature i was thinking of a hood scoop but that quickly changed then i thought about making the fans run off a switch would running them off a switch be beneficial to me and what other things could i do to lower the cars temperature

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

is the car running in the middle of the gauge's range? if not, you have problems, and need to fix those before modding something to "help"

if it is, don't do anything, you want it there. you will lose performance from not having the temp in the correct range.

oh, and switches for e-fans are for race cars (meaning off road, never see the street), and f***ed brain ricers.

Byron1989

Okay so I checked on the issue and its an exhaust leak. I think its pretty bad but the car still drives and is fairly quick. I'll probably change the entire exhaust system in the next few weeks.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

whats the issue? if youre overheating, somethings up. most likely the water pump is sh1tting out, thermostat is fawked, etc. also check your radiator level (when the cars cooled off or else you'll get scalded) and the rad overflow

otherwise unless youre on the track going at 6k RPM constantly or drifting and smoking the rev limiter theres no reason, your thermostat will keep it at the perfect temperature itself.

if youre persistent, Mishimoto makes universal all-metal radiators, Maxima ones are only made for 4th gens and up. i was going to use a universal one but of course my car blew up. all metal rads dont have the crappy plastic on them hence why i never use plastic ones anymore

swr

vehicle is a 92 max gxe auto

HI Everyone, thanks for all the past help. I have been searching threads for a couple diagnosis to help me on a few things I have trying to get fixed first my cruise control stopped working on me , the green light comes on the push button switch to turn the cruise control on , other than that nothing when i go to set it it on steering wheel nothing nor does the dash light for cruise not working either was working fine a few weeks ago , I looked for fuses none to be found fusilbe links in some areas any ways I cant find any fusible links for the cruise unless I am missing something ? I am here to ask any help it diagnosis the cruise control and get it working again the cruise is nice to have a road trip etc...

any one else have the same prob b4 or can give some advise a big thanks for everything

Scott
more questions to soon follow ~~~~~~~~~~~~`

swr

this link has a lot of cruise control info will keep you posted on my progress
http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...sues-help.html

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

There are switches on the brake and clutch pedals to disengage the cruise control when you depress them. Check them.

swr

OK I as the above link and thread talks about I just checked all the fuses all ok getting 12 volts to acsd relay , was thinking the relay might be bad I swapped the a/c relay ( which is the exact same #) and acsd still just the green light on cruise switch nothing when trying to engage cruise on steering wheel . the above linked thread DennisMik Senior Member mentioned 2 relays A hold & inhibitor my 92 max gxe relay box in front of battery has ten relay slots the fog light one is missing due to its a gxe top row left to right is listed as fog light , start, rad fan 3, rad fan 2, rad fan 1 bottom row left to right is ASCD, air con ? i think its hard to read that one, bulb check , Horn, wipers. so which one would be the second relay Dennis mentioned not sure the one acsd that is labeled on cover is a hold or inhibitor relay ? where should I start tracing from here if power and relays are working anyone else out there ? been through this and got their cruise issue traced and fixed let me know of any tips to trace down the problem really appreciate any input

I didnt want to post this back on that old thread link above not sure if anyone would see it ?
Thanks again

Scott

swr

I just wanted to mention I was driving at 55 to retest the cruise i think 50 mph it would work b4 too, wondering if its that second mysterious relay i read about and not sure what one? and where it is ? as its not labeled?

assuming to start tracing to see if getting voltage to acsd module would be next ? would you have to be driving to test the module to have voltage ? would be quite tricky (LOL) is their any fusible links any tips tricks or helpful advise greatly appreciated to get me continued in the right direction for a fix.

Scott

swr

Thank you for the reply Dennis I did have to change one of those pedal plugs that keep you brake light from staying on I will check the on off switch to the cruise on my bake pedal too i have a automatic so no clutch pedal its a 92 max gxe any suggestions on those 2 seperate relays you mentioned b4 ? as i mentioned b4 I only saw one listed in my relay box

Thanks again for your sharing knowledge

Scott

Smithgsx

I've been trying to figure this out for a while now, and I need some help. I have sufficient spark and compression in all cylinders, so I know it's not that. But its running really rich, and it almost sounds like a misfire when it's warm. I tested for compression and spark when it was cold and full temp, no change. Would bad vacuum leaks cause it to run that rich? Anything else I should check? I'd also like to know if the timing is adjustable and where the ground wire is to time it by timing light if it is. Thanks

yorinaga

Greetings!
I have a few problems with my ’93 Maxima SE (manual) that I’m looking for some input on.

Background:
Starter died in August 2008, didn’t have money to replace it so the car sat in my driveway for 2 years. Finally replaced starter June 2010, car would only run with ISOHeat in the tank (forgot to add gas stabilizer). Replaced fuel filter, still no go without ISOHeat. Took to Napa mechanic July 2010, replaced the fuel tank due to “an inch of sludge in the bottom of the tank and smells like turpentine”. Car ran ok for 2 months, started dying while driving. Friend advised fuel pump is likely dying. Money problems again so Car sat for another 6 months. Finally replaced fuel pump 3 weeks ago (thank to the posts here, much easier than I feared!) and car is running again, with a few issues. Replaced fuel filter again 2 days ago. Still have issues.

Issues:
#1: Reduced power and shuddering/chugging/not-the-smooth-whine-it-used-to-have in the low RPM range (1000-3500)

#2: Car, once warmed up, stalls or at least drops RPMs to 200ish before slowly going back to idle RPMs (750ish) when letting off the gas and not in gear, usually when coming to a stop or taking a sharp turn, but also when driving straight though not as fast as when turning or braking. Infrequently actually dies completely at a stop or turn. Starts fine after dies. Has a bit of trouble starting if parked with the engine pointing up a sloped parking or driveway and the engine is still warm. Drives fine when cold other than the first symptom.

I’m suspicious of a vacuum leak or maybe a fuel vapor line blockage, but am looking for some experienced owners thoughts.

Thanks for reading!

swr

I also checked cut out switch on brake pedel is working ok any suggestions on where to go and check from now again only found 1 marked ascd relay in front of battery how do you go about checking the ascd control module ? and any other things i should trace down to get this working ? thanks again
Scott

yorinaga

Update to my post above:

Replaced all 4mm vacuum hoses with nice blue high grade silicon hoses, found small crack in the hose going from fuel filter to engine right at the clamp so moved the tube further onto the metal pipe so it is now directly under the clamp. No gas smell at the crack. Adjusted idle to about 950 RPM. Car still sluggish at low RPMs and RPMs still drop once it's warm.

yorinaga

Found the "Strange Hesitation" thread with people having similar issues and have paid a bit more attention to my heat guage and the idle / dying issue seems directly related to the temp. Going to replace the coolant temp sensor and see if that works.

swr

HI everyone sorry to ask for the link but my computer is acting up and having a very slow time searching can some one please post the link to the instructional page on the full process of pulling obd 1 codes for a 92 max gxe

I know I saw it b4 somehwere but having trouble surfing
thanks greatly appreciate it

Scott

gitanesteel

Greeting - another newb here. Just bought a 94 GXE on Thursday and have to say I'm really liking it. I've always been a Maxima fan so I jumped on the opportunity. Car's got 150,000 miles on it and runs without a miss. Small oil leak that looks like the pan gasket.

Bigger issues are the struts - all need to be replaced. Should be done next week. The CV boots are both torn so I'll do those as well.

Other than needing a hood repaint it's a great car.

A couple of questions related to the electrical:

The two rear speakers don't work - is that a problem area others have experienced. Also, the car has a factory security alarm but it goes off when you open the door with the key. Then you have to walk back and open the trunk to get it to shut off. Can you just disconnect the main anti-theft fuse from the engine compartment to disable the alarm or will that cause other problems. We live in the country on a dead end road and drive into a small town - really no reason for an anti-theft system.

Finally, the trunk release push button on the door doesn't release the trunk. Is that an electrical issue or maybe just release cable thing?

Looking forward to learning more about this car.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

Responded in quote.

swr

OK I finally got internet connection to work so was tryong to locate links on how to check the ecu codes found this posted below by cape cadaver in maintenance thread but the links are dead for thr video and other link is dead maybe some one cN POST A UPDATE thanks


OK for those of you with a 5-mode system... including the guy who started this thread...

warm up your car, shut it off, wait 15 seconds, then do exactly as I do in the following video:

http://s164.photobucket.com/albums/u...t=MVI_2370.flv

if you get a 55 like I did, that means you are error-free. If you get something else.... then you have something to fix.

but anyhow, my previous error code 33 led me to do this http://s164.photobucket.com/albums/u...0sensor%20fix/ (yes the harness is covered in PS fluid...... i'm hoping to fix that soon)

gitanesteel

Radio is stock am/fm cassette, not Bose. The display for the radio doesn't work but that's not a big deal since I'll probably put an aftermarket cd player in it. However, having the rear speakers function would be nice.

For the trunk there's definitely a click so I'll start with the latch and see if it's just an alignment issue.

Revive Liberty

Hi folks. I was just given a 1990 Maxima SE w/auto trans and 243k on the clock. It's got a few issues but I'll start with the major one. The car will start and run good (but absolutely gut-less in the power department, may be timing issue?) but if I shut it down and try to start it up again it won't start!

First I checked out the fuel pressure (after the filter, before the rails) and came up with 55psi. Next I decided to check the OHMs on the injectors, upon doing this I noticed ALL of the injectors & injector plugs were corroded, so I cleaned them up (sand blaster FTW) and tested them, lowest reading was 10.9 and highest was 13.4, the rest were in the mid 11.? range.

So I had let the car sit for awhile, fired it up and let it run awhile. Shut it down then tried to start it again and again it wouldn't start. Checked to see if I was getting injector pulse or not and I did not.

What could be going on? What would cause the lack of injector pulse? I checked the codes in the ECU and came up with nothing.

Thank you in advance!

Deolarte

So i still have not been able to fix my speedometer, but I am getting terrible mileage, which is now down to 10-12mpg, I have to fill up every 5 days, and only get about 160 a tank used to get 220 or more before speedo gave out. could this be related? Thanks

gitanesteel

A couple of other issues as I work through the 93 GXE.

Oil leak - I cleaned oil debris off the oil pan and lower portion of the motor and tightened up the pan bolts. I also tightened the valve cover bolts - several were pretty loose and it definitely appears oil was coming from the back side of the valve cover. Still a little oil on the ground (size of a 50 cent piece or so this morning). The level on the dipstick is ok so it's not leaking a ton but seems to be a steady drip. I'm assuming maybe it's a seal somewhere for the rest of the leak and will keep an eye on it for another couple of days.

Factory theft system - I pulled both fuses (engine compartment and passenger fuse panel) and it seems to have disabled the alarm. However, the Security light still flashes on the dash - is that normal?

The passenger headlamp looks to be stripped on the long bolt next to the grille. The lamp just moves in and out. I'm assuming I need another lamp for that. Any good recommendations on aftermarket upgrades for the headlamps.

Bear with me - I'm a novice when it comes to some of this car repair stuff. I can build a bicycle from the frame up all day but cars are a different story.

Edit: a couple of photos of the leak. It's dripping from right where the pulleys sit next to the oil pan.

Looking from the front toward the pan - leak to the left of the pan.



Looking straight up to the leak and pan: