i have a question... i have a 02 maxima 6 spd, in the entire rpm range i get a weird clicking/ticking sound. the higher the rpms the louder it gets, the only mods i have done are a CAI and 2 1/2 in exhaust. the higher octane gas i put in the louder it gets. the ticking sounds are so close it sounds like its a continuous noise. im kinda worried about it. i have no loss in power at all. i added a octane booster and it just got louder. i can now hear it over my exhaust now. and my exhaust is LOUD.

 

you want the 5th gen section, this is the 3rd gen

 

Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone knew the inner diameter of the upper radiator hose on the VG? I need to know so I get the right size water temp adapter.

 

Hey, was wondering if anyone knew where the ground was for the A/T switch harness was? I believe the problem to my car being thrown in limp mode is due to a short in the harness. The P light never comes on (bought a brand new switch). The C light comes on though. If you tug at the cables, sometimes the P light will come on and the car will operate normally.

 

Hey everyone... I just bought a '91 maxima a few weeks ago, VG, auto, 104k miles. I just replaced the spark plugs (NGK BKR6E-11) and the wires (OEM), thats all I did, nothing else. Took it for a quick spin and there is no power at all, it is very boggy feeling and rough at idle. The old wires had corrosion in a couple of the rotor holes which I cleaned out, not to mention one of the wires was deeper inside the boot that went to the rotor and I dont even know how it was ever getting any spark. And now with new plugs and wires its worse?

The old wires were OEM and the old spark plugs were Bosch Platinum Plus FP7DPX.

Help me out here guys

 

I'd first check to make sure that you put the plug wires back on in the correct order. It's easy to make that mistake. Then I'd check that you didn't accidently unplug anything.

It's possible you might have thrown off the timing a bit when you were cleaning the rotor.

 

Well to prevent myself from doing that I took one off and put one on, took one off and put one on, but I will double check.

Possibly the timing. I'm probably gonna sound like a major noob here, but I dont know much about these engines, I'm a Honda guy :P... On hondas, all you do to advance or retard the timing is loosen the bolts and rotate the whole distributor. All I did here was take off the top cap and then put it back on. Could I still have inadvertently thrown the timing off?

 

It's very possible. How does the car idle? Does it sound like it's missing? When you give it throttle is the increase in RPM a smooth transition, or rough? There's one bolt to hold the distributor in place. Just check everything you touched or changed.

 

It studders and shakes as I hit the gas whether its in park or driving, and even at idle, which is still around 700ish, it shakes.

I'll take a look tomorrow. Hopefully it will be a quick fix

Hmmm, just thought of something. I replaced one little vacuum hose, the one coming off the back left on the manifold by the spark plug, and the inner diameter is much smaller and had to really force it on. Could I be suffocating it possibly??

 

Im new... and I have questions... but reading this post I have another question and maybe potential awesome INFO.

My family has an auto repair shop in NY, been around since the 1960s. We have a mechanic there, whos been there many years, and a mechanic / tinkerer his whole life.

Him (95%) and I built my LT1 3rd gen camaro with lots of custom work needed to make it all nice.

He ASSURES me .. I only need the Injector, and the upper plenum gasket for him to replace it.
I have a 93 SE that needs an injector replaced, one of the ones near the back of the engine

 

Well it wasnt the vacuum hose. I advanced the timing at the dizzy, which seemed to help with the idle a bit, but still no power under acceleration.

Could it be the spark plug gap? They are suppose to be pre-gapped to .044. I guess next I will put the old plugs back in and see if that does anything.

 

My 1st car was a 90' 240sx and it had the EXACT same thing happen... My dad and I decided to change the plugs one day, so we did... Damn thing ran like &#!% so we ended up putting the old plugs back and said eff it! But I would definitely make sure that the gap is correct!

On another note.... It's odd that we are both noobs on the forum and had the same exact idea for a username.... Can't believe these usernames were even available still haha

 

hello all,
i have a Nissan 1991 Maxima SE 5spd..and i do kinda need help..i don't know how to do the transmission oil change can some one please tell me how to do it and were the plug is?also what type of Trans oil do i use?keep in mind mine is a 5spd.i don't need the answer asap b/c i have to redo the axle and manifold..this is my frist car and i only have xp in engines not trans...thank you.

 

i figured i would ask a second opinion on what this may be before i tear into it. a few days ago my car started having an intermittent shudder to it. it is noticeable at idle, under acceleration, deceleration, or constant cruise. but it only happens sometimes, when its warm mostly. it will go away for a few minutes, then come back. i just replaced an injector that died, and a coil as well. before i go and dig into it i just wanted to see if that may be the case again or if i should check for other things. engine model is the VE30DE. so, ideas please? Thanks.

 

Having a problem, seems to be fuel related. Parent's Maxima (I think it's a 94) won't start. Turned the key, engine turns, it has spark, pulled a plug and looked down into the cylinder with the plug out and didn't see fuel when we turned the key. Removed the fuel hose from the filter, put it into a jar and turned the key, the pump definitely works and the filter isn't clogged. So, is there some sort of a relay that would stop the injectors from working? Otherwise any other suggestions?

 

Check for an intake leak, especialy around the idle control valve and mass air flow sensor. They prevent the car from starting if something is wrong between the two.

 

that would shut off the fuel? Only cause I would expect it to cut spark not fuel.

 

By any chace do you know if it's a GXE or an SE? The GXE has a VG30E motor and the SE has the VE30DE motor.

I suggested to check for the vacuum leak first because that would be the easiest step to check a car not starting. There is no relay that controls the injectors. The camshaft position sensor takes care of the injectors so check the connection. Also, get a noid light and plug it into one of the injector connectors to make sure the injectors are getting a signal. I don't think it would be that easy to notice fuel mixed with air.

 

Hi all,

I would like some help if I could with a problem. I have a 1993 Maxima GXE (SOHC). It has 140k on it, and I recently replaced 5 of 6 fuel injectors with reman'd ones. the 6th was replaced about a month ago with a new one (got a deal on the reman'd). Now I'm having an issue with the engine running rough.

The engine seems to have a loss of power, bad fuel economy, and a hesitation when hitting the gas. At idle the thing runs louder, but not at any higher/lower of RPMs. I checked vacuum pressure, and that was in spec. Then replaced the plenum gaskets with better (Fel-Pro) ones.

All the injectors test at very close to 12ohms.

It passed emissions with no problem, and I can post the results if you like.

It is not throwing an error code, and does not run differently in different situations (hot, cold etc.)

The fuel filter, and O2 sensor were replaced about 50k ago, the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor were replaced about 5k ago, and I'm just lost on where to go from here. It is going to a shop that I trust sometime this week, but I'm open to suggestions as long as I can test the part, and they're not guesses that have me throw parts at the car.

I was starting to think it could be a vacuum solenoid, or that one of the injectors O-rings leaked, but I'm not a mechanic, and could use some suggestions on testing methods.

Thanks!!!

 

Hello,

I have a problem with my dash lights and tailights, I currently installed a jvc after market stereo and when installing I found that there was an extra wire which did not match up to the wire harness adapter I purchased. It was the illumination/dimmer wire. I dont know why but I connected it to my power, thinking worst case scenario, it will be on full bright all the time. but instead my dash light and tail lights stopped working. I checked all the fuses and non seem to be the problem, I searched and many are talking about the dimmer switch needing to be replace. Is the dimmer switch the swith on the right side of steering wheel with lightbulb, or the one one left used as turn lights and headlight switch. Also will this be my problem. I dont know if there any other fuses I might need to replace, cant seem to find the one for tail lights, my parking lights/brakelights and headlights work fine. Also What should I do with the illumination wire? should i just tape it by it self, or hook up to dimmer wire? or ground?

Please help and thanks in advance for your time and help.

 

you definitely popped a fuse. double check with a multimeter, you'll find it's toasted. (6th one down, closest to the door)
If it's still a no-go, I would warrant the theft ecu is toast. Happened to me, once, back when I was a total n00b. (I think I'm graduating to n00bish, soon)...

cover the end of the illumination wire with electrical tape, don't use it.

 

Soooo question....

Just bought a 94 Max.. Definitely needed a starter, so I order one up today from a parts dealer that I deal with at work... Told him I needed it for an automatic. They drop it off and without even thinking about it, I throw my car up on the lift after work and pull the old started. Grab the new one and realize it's completely different! After a little research online, my starter looks to be from a manual transmission car?!?! Does anyone know why I would need the manual trans starter? Were there 2 different motors available or is it possible that the motor in my car was swapped somewhere down the line?

 

do you have a GXE or SE? if you have a 94, a SE has VE30DE and GXE has VG30E, you probably got the wrong starter

i can 99.99999999999999% guarantee nobody swapped your engine, to go from a VG30E to VE30DE, you have to swap alot of wiring and such and only very few people have done it

 

ok did my first ever engine swap on a 90. car sat for a year before i got up the courage. turns out the crank shaft snout twisted off on old engine 110,000 miles. So far So good, got a couple questions... the J Y engine i swapped had no thermostat, that shouldnt have hurt the engine before right?, i did install a 180 degree into it. And should i baby this thing for a while, cause i Really miis it and i am chompin at the bit to turn her loose a little...

 

I have no idea if it's a VG30E or DE... How Can I tell?

Ok, so now i'm going crazy!!! I got what looked to be the correct starter... Bolted in the same as the one that came out. But the starter is just clicking when I try to start it... (Sounds like the starter is just smacking the flywheel).. Now it is not starting at all though, where as the old one would click about 3-4 times and usually start by the 5th time. I tried taking it back out, cleaning off the mating surfaces and re-installing, and still nothing. I also bench tested the brand new starter and it spins perfect. I wonder if the starter is wrong, I'm debating returning it and getting one from Nissan and crossing my fingers that it works!

 

dead battery, corroded battery cables, loose terminals.

 

VG30E, 1989-1994 GXE and 1989-1991 SE. theres no DE in 3rd gens either, Z32 used VG30DE



VE30DE, 1992-1994 SE. VE30DE were only found in these Maximas, no other vehicles ever

 

Mine is the 2nd one. And the battery is ruled out. I had a fully charged jump box hooked up just to be sure. Also cables are all tight and clean... no corrosion anywhere to be seen

 

you have the harder to find VE30DE SE then, they probably gave you a VG starter

 

They had 2 different starters... the first one was completely different so I told them to send the other one. I popped that one in and everything seemed to line up, only it Dosent work :-/

 

Crap I just realized I said 2nd one but I meant the 1st! Doh!

 

if youre sure you installed it correctly, its possible you got a bad starter, ive seen it happen before

does it to nothing if you turn the key to start it? long shot, but your shifter bushing could be shot and the tranny isnt really going into park. a couple of years ago on mine sometimes it wouldnt even crank if i turned the key, i would have to rock the car back and forth and something would click and it would start. one day even that didnt work, new starter didnt help because sometimes it wouldnt even crank again

shifter bushing was gone and it wasnt fully going into park hence it not cranking, new shifter bushing fixed it. extremely small chance but that could be your problem as well

 

Hmmm I did read that in another thread.. might be a long shot but its worth a try! I will inspect the bushing tomorrow. I assumed the bushing was not the problem because I tried moving the shifter while turning the key. Now that I'm thinking about it.. that bushing is definitely bad because when putting the car in drive, it would stay in neutral until you give the shifter an extra push. I read that that was caused by the bushing also

 

yep thats what mine did too, its related to the bushing. also the shifter felt sloppy.

while youre in there just replace it, i think now its $3 from Nissan. a month ago at work a 3rd gen came in and the guy said it wouldnt go into park well and i said do the shifter bushing and sure enough it fixed it. just have to remove the heatshield and its a easy thing to replace

moving the shifter while turning the key might not help, with mine i always had to rock the car hard back and forth to get it into park. moving the shifter didnt help

 

Ahhhh I tried rocking it in neural but I will try it in park tomorrow! Thanks for the tips!!!

 

yeah gotta rock it in park

 

Welp rocking it didn't change anything... Starter is just clicking away

I'm going to call the parts store and have them send me a replacement to swap out... For now i'll inspect that bushing while the car is on the lift at work... maybe it's so bad that even rocking wont help.. I wish I still had the starter that came off the car... at least that one worked after about 5 tries!

 

see my previous post.
It's clicking, meaning it's getting power, but not enough to spin the starter motor under load. this means severe lack of voltage at the starter. check the list above (instead of ignoring it), your bound to find your problem.

 

I didn't ignore it... I stated in another post that I had a fully charged jump box hooked up to the car.

 

Waiting on another starter right now.... Looks to me like the starter gear was definitely hitting the flywheel... Not sure if they are giving me the wrong starter or if the starter was built with the wrong gear it it.... Ugh I hope the next one works!