sw150

Both OEM and performance.

3g94MaxGXE

I don't know...haha autozone is so close here and they keep all their plugs behind the counter...though at least the boschs are in plain sight. I've heard time and time again that they are the company that is used OEM the most but hey the auto parts stores carry things that work not that work best so no idea if I could find some at advance, pep boys or discount auto. I'd hate to run down to the Nissan stealership to buy spark plugs.

I've heard of these 300hp maximas, 400 is a little bit of news to me but its no surprise cause the 300ZX does share the same engine block and they make 425hp on stock internals according to a nissan master technician (goes by the alias John Paul) on yahoo answers (though I've heard 500 from less reliable sources). I'm sure they've got plenty more potential to them but maximas don't exactly get the kind of fanbase that crappy honda civics do so so I doubt the envelope is being pushed like it could be with a more enthusiastic community. Don't get me wrong though I think quite a few guys here are quite enthusiastic about maxima performance but for every one of us there is there are probably 100 civic fanboys spending their entire pizza boy paycheck on the millions of parts that have been developed for them based on consumer demand.

I really need to make a solid mod list though, I feel like adding another question every time I think about this topic and its always one I've thought before but never said like at the moment I'm thinking where can I get a OEM style spoiler? Either that or something that fits well and looks like the stock 90s eclipse one or the MKIV supra one. *hides*

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

AZ sells ngk. true, bosch is oem on other cars, but most japanese cars use ngk as oem.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

most part stores have them in the US the max has a safe and logical compression ratio which is very much in line with 95% of the cars out there
wheels are a waste

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

I don't think any company is currently specing bosch as OE, I could be wrong though.

Setol One

I have the 145 mph gauge cluster taken apart and I am trying to figure out which parts are needed for a successful upgrade in my 1990 SE should I just swap the speedometer out and use the original 125 mph cluster or take the tach out of the 125 mph and put it into the 145 mph cluster? I'm confused what would be the best way. Also both speedometers and temp gauges will not read out at times this only happens rarely. anyone?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

whichever. nothing needs to be done to the speedo, except swap it in.i recommend the changing of the speedo head, to save the odometer if its still correct.
and something about seeing the needle hit 5500 makes me shift quicker than the 6500(or whatever on the 145 gauges, i just swapped the whole assy, save the odometer.)

Setol One

cool so use everything from the 145 mph cluster besides the odometer (just so i know what my actual miles are basically) and mph is displayed correctly? what about the speedometer and temp gauge not working sometimes any knowledge?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

those could be faulty sensors. sometimes the gauge may die, but usually sensors.
side note: i had/have an issue with the air bag light, since i dont have any in my car.

Setol One

what sensors could be the cause?

i had the same issue when i removed the factory steeringwheel in my 94 and installed aftermarket hub and steeringwheel.
in the 90 don't have that prob though. lol

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

the engine temp sensor in the pic goes to the gauge, maybe a fault in the connector or wire somewhere.
the speedo sensor is on the tranny, do you have a auto or manual?

Setol One

ight cool, it's manual

3g94MaxGXE

Well as its been said the VE is higher compression and I know of plenty of cars with higher compression, then again most of the ones I actually know the CR for are from 40 years ago when there was lead in gas.

I know wheels are a waste but my stock wheels are going downhill (the film is half peeled, they are scratched, etc. I don't like the way 15s look either.

leztrampmax

the noise my steering is making is like hard vibration, but like i stated my steering suspension instructor sat in my car and said its not your rack and pinion and when he moved the steering wheel back in for he said " usually it will bleed out when you do that, maybe theres a different way to do it for these cars" so honestly i dunno it does make the turnin a little diffucult and its LOUD vibration.

leztrampmax

also sometimes when i turn it on in the mornings it feeels normal then it like starts happening. so i dunno SOMEBODYY please help lol.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

according to the fsm, leave the car off, turn the wheel lock to lock, making sure to keep fluid in the reservoir, repeat, repeat, until there is no need to add fluid. turn the engine on, repeat the process. should be bled. if this doesnt fix it, start checking the hoses, for crimps, kinks, or anything weird.

AllyMax

New on the site and hope this is posted in the right place. Can someone shed some insight on what I should look for/ask about on either year model? The '91 has around 120k (odometer quit) and the '93 has around 75k (I'm suspicious). Also, is there a link on the site somewhere to do a VIN check where I can pull service history? Also, the more I read, it appears I need to stay away from the VE engine and try to get one with the VG engine? What code in the VIN tells me which motor the vehicle has? Thanks folks!

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

just a few things, i would be more prone to get a ve over a vg(again) for a few reasons 1)newer(usually) 2)chain vs. belt 3)30 more hp 4)seems to have a sturdier auto tranny.
service records would probably be iffy, because the only way to get them would be from nissan's service department. but who wants to pay nissan $40-50+ for an oil change, when you can go to the lube shop on the corner for $20. and their records probably stay in the shop. now there is a deal at the lube shop on the other side of town for $5. go there a few times, and everybody's paperwork is effed up.
if the owner can't say, who can?
if you want to get info on some nissans, you can call up nissan and ask them(provide the vin, and they can answer some q's.)
do a search on the forum for "vin codes" and you will get the info about which engine is which on the vin(there was a discussion recently, but i am too damn lazy to pull it up.)

93maximaguy

ok i know that this is a realy stupid question but are our ve30de exhaust manifolds cast iron or stamped steel? im asking cause i just got my maxima today at 9am for $2200 and was curious to know

goon9

iTrader: (13)

Stamped.

KillaKarebear

I need some help i got this squeak and i find out that my alt. mount is not bolted on does any 1 know the grade and length on the bolt/s and also need to know if there are 2 or 1 bolts?

Setol One

There are 3 The top of the alt. has 2 one coming in from each direction and the bottom has 1 and a tesioner bolt if you adjust the tension that could get rid of the squeak. I believe this is the same for the VG and VE engines only diff are the pulleys. not sure what grade the bolts are I cant see the alt. staying put if there are missing bolts.

KillaKarebear

you are right that the bolt broke on in the bracket(or whatever) i have to buy a bolt extractor kit and my belt tensioner bolt is bent from my alt. hangeing on it for how ever long. i am thinking of going the JY and snaging the whole thing (belt tensioner and that bolt). do you thing thats a good idea?

Setol One

I think the jy parts are fine I always go for used parts over new depending on what parts they are. Good luck with that extractor gonna be fun in that tight space.

KillaKarebear

yea tell me about lol its gonna suck

mnm3351

sorryif this isn't the right place,but found no other nooby area....
I have an 02 se with 225/50 r17,live in montana,but not much snow.I need new tires...any help would be great, also am a girl..so not up on all the lingo

KillaKarebear

I would first recommend your local tire shop ask people you know the best info your gonna get is going to be from our neighbors in your town look for peeps with nice cars. thats what i did now im getting a set of 225/40r18 for $300 new and there toyos. so ask your friends, local repair shop they will point you to the right place.

Setol One

For montana driving I recommend all-season tires which are going to cost you $150-$250 each maybe more depending on quality but if you want to go cheap call the tire shops in your area and ask if they have any used tires of that size they should cost you about $40-$50 with sufficient tread left, no more than that or they are trying to rip you off. Most newer cars come with that size of tire so there should be a place somewhere that has them. I live in montana too so I know first hand when it comes to driving in mt weather, your tires are important. Most performance tires or lower profile tires (anything 50 series or lower) are usually good for summer or track use only not unpredictable montana weather. It's been raining non-stop in our area and my max has 225/45/18's which are completely useless in the snow, ok in the rain and better on dry pavement.

Here's what your lookin' for http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Sizes....+F1+All+Season <-- Just one option.

Setol One

I've looked through the sticky's but I never find what I'm looking for again my apologies for reposting previous questions.

I have 18's with 225/45 zr18 on my 90 on the front when turning and on bumps they rub against the inner wheel wells on both sides the friction has cut some serious grooves in the splash guards i remember a similar problem on my 94. What can I do to remedy the issue? I was thinking of going with a smaller tire something like a 225/40/18 would that correct the problem or is there another way of correcting this? Is camber position the prob. etc.? blah, freakin' blah u know what i'm sayin'

the same suspension i had on my 94 is on my 90 but wasn't as bad. I bought the parts in '06 eibach pro 1.2"-1.5" drop springs with tokico hp struts are the springs starting to sag or the struts losing pressure?
there are signs of rust already on the eibach springs is this common my original springs were from 89-90 when ever the car was built and they didn't have any rust on them wassup wit dat?

Also what's a cheap/quality sway kit for front and back along with replacement of rod's and ends? What are the electronic/spring loaded sensors or w/e where the rear suspension is located? they are rusted to ****.

for reals yo where errybody att 2day?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

whats the offset of the wheels? if they are what i think they are, they are for the brakes, kinda load balancing thing.memorial day weekend, everybody's at the lake, getting sunburned and drunk?

Setol One

They are 18x8.00'' 5x114.3 40mm offset

do those have something to do with the abs maybe? should they be replaced?

yeah I should have figured that. it's 40 degrees here and pouring rain we aint camping at the lake like we had planned

93maximaguy

has anyone tryed to make a set of headers for the ve off of the stamped stockers?

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

The ve exhaust manifolds are header style...little to no improvements would come of this venture.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

use a narrower tire, and /or play with the wheel offset
cheap and quality do not go together pick which one you want, and go from there.
it's an LSV. Load Sensing Valve, there is nothing electrical about it. it adjusts the pressure to the rear brakes based on the ride height of the car's rear.

93maximaguy

first nissan so just wondering all the same

Setol One

Alright so use a 215 as opposed to a 225 for example? i already have curb checked the rims that is just going to leave the lip of the wheel prone to more damage isn't it? I could be wrong.

Something a little better than stock so cheap would prob be good for me.

so should the LSV's be replaced and if so what cost am i looking at for replacing them?

Setol One

My speedometer went out completely today this very serious considering the cops here are just aching for a reason to pull people over.
what do i do to fix it? I know there is a sensor what does that cost new and where is it located?

Help anyone?

dfoster

Hold on guys, I got this one. Search it. J/K. To find out the price of new I'd say check your local Nissan dealership. They can probably tell you what it is and where for free. I don't know alot about cars, I just drive'em. One of these guys will probably give you a link or something. Maybe even an answer.

Setol One

no ****, thanks for the help!

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

no clue, don't know anyone who has ever replaced them.

does your odometer/trip meter work? if it does then you need a cluster.
if it doesn't then look at the top of your transmission for smallish sensor with a couple of wires coming out of it that has a plastic top. sometimes that plastic top pops up and all that's needed to fix it is pushing it back in.
sorry I lack pics, but my maxs are all long gone from me.
wayne will probably pop in with one.
sample pic of sensor: