*NOOBIES* The "I am new here,but have a question" thread..(post your questions here)
I have also recently (last night) begun to have problems with the motor. It feels like an Ignition problem. It barely pulls from idle to about 3000, then it picks up a bit until about 4000 and then it takes off. (pulling the way a VE should
) and it has had 2 fits so far where I could barely even drive it. It misfires like a mother, im thinkin it's the Control Module. However, the motor only has about 50,000 miles on it. ( The car has 176,xxx) But, it has yet to set a code so the Check Engine light hasn't come on yet.
) and it has had 2 fits so far where I could barely even drive it. It misfires like a mother, im thinkin it's the Control Module. However, the motor only has about 50,000 miles on it. ( The car has 176,xxx) But, it has yet to set a code so the Check Engine light hasn't come on yet.
I have also recently (last night) begun to have problems with the motor. It feels like an Ignition problem. It barely pulls from idle to about 3000, then it picks up a bit until about 4000 and then it takes off. (pulling the way a VE should
) and it has had 2 fits so far where I could barely even drive it. It misfires like a mother, im thinkin it's the Control Module. However, the motor only has about 50,000 miles on it. ( The car has 176,xxx) But, it has yet to set a code so the Check Engine light hasn't come on yet.
) and it has had 2 fits so far where I could barely even drive it. It misfires like a mother, im thinkin it's the Control Module. However, the motor only has about 50,000 miles on it. ( The car has 176,xxx) But, it has yet to set a code so the Check Engine light hasn't come on yet.have you scanned for codes, or just assume the light would come on if there is a reportable problem. remember, the car is 14 years old, and the light MAY be burnt...
Well,I didn't think about the light being burned out, but no I have not had a chance to look for codes yet. Im not really sure how to get them off without a scanner. (Some OBD1 vehicles have special key to put in the diagnostic port)
I have also recently (last night) begun to have problems with the motor. It feels like an Ignition problem. It barely pulls from idle to about 3000, then it picks up a bit until about 4000 and then it takes off. (pulling the way a VE should
) and it has had 2 fits so far where I could barely even drive it. It misfires like a mother, im thinkin it's the Control Module. However, the motor only has about 50,000 miles on it. ( The car has 176,xxx) But, it has yet to set a code so the Check Engine light hasn't come on yet.
) and it has had 2 fits so far where I could barely even drive it. It misfires like a mother, im thinkin it's the Control Module. However, the motor only has about 50,000 miles on it. ( The car has 176,xxx) But, it has yet to set a code so the Check Engine light hasn't come on yet.1.bad injector or two
2.bad coilpack or two
3. bad coolant temp sensor.
4.Most likely 1 or 2
The low power issue below 3000 rpm is most likely a bad knock sensor,i suggest you pull the ecu codes,the k/s code will not always set off the check engine light,but it will store the code in the ecu..Look in the general maintenance sticky for codes retrieval instructions.
Code retrieval instructions---> http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...4&postcount=19
Well, whats weird is the car will only has only had those fits twice and after it has them, it's fine...Fine as in dosent run like it should but runs good enough to drive it sanely. Im just afraid it's going to cost me a fortune.
(A fortune that I cant afford at 16 with a $6 an hour job)
(A fortune that I cant afford at 16 with a $6 an hour job)
Well, whats weird is the car will only has only had those fits twice and after it has them, it's fine...Fine as in dosent run like it should but runs good enough to drive it sanely. Im just afraid it's going to cost me a fortune.
(A fortune that I cant afford at 16 with a $6 an hour job)
(A fortune that I cant afford at 16 with a $6 an hour job)not everything that goes wrong is expensive.
I just purchased a 93 maxima SE and although I've learned a lot of good info I can't seem to find the answer to three things so I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction...
1. Is there a way to disable the power door locks so they don't all function together?
2. I have noticed a fairly strong gas smell after starting the car and it can last for quite some time. I don't see any liquids leaking anywhere and the car runs fine just a strong gas odor. Ideas?
3. My radio sounds great but I only receive AM radio and while I like that it would be nice to have FM sometimes. Actually FM will come in for 30 seconds to a minute then it either makes an odd screeching noise or the volume cuts out. I can get FM back by switching to AM real fast and then back to FM but this seems a dangerously distracting method.
Thanks for any help.
1. Is there a way to disable the power door locks so they don't all function together?
2. I have noticed a fairly strong gas smell after starting the car and it can last for quite some time. I don't see any liquids leaking anywhere and the car runs fine just a strong gas odor. Ideas?
3. My radio sounds great but I only receive AM radio and while I like that it would be nice to have FM sometimes. Actually FM will come in for 30 seconds to a minute then it either makes an odd screeching noise or the volume cuts out. I can get FM back by switching to AM real fast and then back to FM but this seems a dangerously distracting method.
Thanks for any help.
curator:
1.) pull door pannel off driver door, disconnect wires to locking switch.
there may be a fuse you can pull, but i think it goes to other stuff.
2.) faulty injector? I dunno, but iirc, its the most common fault.(I could be wrong.)
3.) is it a bose? bose stereos seem to suck after this many years, consider a new, after-market cd player head unit. you can get it repaired, but for the money, its not a good investment.
1.) pull door pannel off driver door, disconnect wires to locking switch.
there may be a fuse you can pull, but i think it goes to other stuff.
2.) faulty injector? I dunno, but iirc, its the most common fault.(I could be wrong.)
3.) is it a bose? bose stereos seem to suck after this many years, consider a new, after-market cd player head unit. you can get it repaired, but for the money, its not a good investment.
Last edited by BenStoked; Jan 3, 2008 at 11:55 AM. Reason: out of order
1. unplug the door lock switch on the door, but then you lose the power locks entirely.
2. you need to replace the fuel lines on the engine, not hard just time consuming
3. replace radio
2. you need to replace the fuel lines on the engine, not hard just time consuming
3. replace radio
I pulled the ECM Codes or Code I should say, and I got a 33 (Oxygen Sensor Circut) so I believe i'm going to take it and have the sensor checked and hopefully thats the only thing wrong with it. I also noticed today while I was driving it down some back roads that it has a surge in it. So im thinking that if that sensors bad it's leanin that motor out.
I can now post my own thread, but wondered if i am still allowed to ask a question in hear to avoid an entire thread? I noticied a milky color on my oil cap, hopefully from little driving time, but now it changed to an orange milky substance?? Could a cold engine that has been revved crack cylinder block etc.
Last edited by augiedog964; Jan 5, 2008 at 11:42 AM.
Does anyone have a wiring diagram for a 1994 Nissan Maxima with power windows and automatic seat belts and a door keypad? I have a problem with my power windows and the seat belts that I think is electrical and I need to find out if they are connected together, which wires to trace, and where to look for the problem. Neither the windows or the seatbelts work at this time. The car starts and drives with no problem. Also something drains the battery if I leave it hooked up.
Thanks,
Mike
Thanks,
Mike
Problem with power windows & seatbelts
Yes. There are no blown fuses. Battery has been charged and checked; it's ok. Master switch for power windows has been replaced with a certified good used replacement switch(old one had a burned area on it). I am down to checking for shorted/broken wires and need to know which ones to check and where to start looking. Windows and seat belts both worked before and just suddenly stopped working. First the windows stopped and after replacing the window master switch, I found the seat belts no longer worked. Is there a common wire for power? What is the connection between the two other than the ignition switch?(neither operate unless the ignition switch is on)
Oil in Spark plug tube!
Long story short..
Last month I changed out sparkplugs.. No problem. Unfortunately I tried to get by the cheap way and bought the new plugs at AutoZone for $3 a piece. I noticed and drop in performance and decided to drop some cash on OEM plugs from the dealer (ok I know I should have just got them from the beginning). Anyway, I went to put in the new plugs and the back, middle (firewall side) spark plug tube was filled with oil!! Got most of the oil out, replaced spark plug ( old plug had no signs of oil exposure) and put in new plugs. I rechecked today and that same tube is filling up with oil again. I've driven about 100 miles since I noticed this problem and the oil level is about half way up the spark plug. Anyone have any idea where the heck this oil is coming from? It has to be splashing into the tube or slowly leaking in from somewhere. No other tubes have oil in them..
Thanks for any info
97 nissan maxima se
Last month I changed out sparkplugs.. No problem. Unfortunately I tried to get by the cheap way and bought the new plugs at AutoZone for $3 a piece. I noticed and drop in performance and decided to drop some cash on OEM plugs from the dealer (ok I know I should have just got them from the beginning). Anyway, I went to put in the new plugs and the back, middle (firewall side) spark plug tube was filled with oil!! Got most of the oil out, replaced spark plug ( old plug had no signs of oil exposure) and put in new plugs. I rechecked today and that same tube is filling up with oil again. I've driven about 100 miles since I noticed this problem and the oil level is about half way up the spark plug. Anyone have any idea where the heck this oil is coming from? It has to be splashing into the tube or slowly leaking in from somewhere. No other tubes have oil in them..
Thanks for any info
97 nissan maxima se
Long story short..
Last month I changed out sparkplugs.. No problem. Unfortunately I tried to get by the cheap way and bought the new plugs at AutoZone for $3 a piece. I noticed and drop in performance and decided to drop some cash on OEM plugs from the dealer (ok I know I should have just got them from the beginning). Anyway, I went to put in the new plugs and the back, middle (firewall side) spark plug tube was filled with oil!! Got most of the oil out, replaced spark plug ( old plug had no signs of oil exposure) and put in new plugs. I rechecked today and that same tube is filling up with oil again. I've driven about 100 miles since I noticed this problem and the oil level is about half way up the spark plug. Anyone have any idea where the heck this oil is coming from? It has to be splashing into the tube or slowly leaking in from somewhere. No other tubes have oil in them..
Thanks for any info
97 nissan maxima se
Last month I changed out sparkplugs.. No problem. Unfortunately I tried to get by the cheap way and bought the new plugs at AutoZone for $3 a piece. I noticed and drop in performance and decided to drop some cash on OEM plugs from the dealer (ok I know I should have just got them from the beginning). Anyway, I went to put in the new plugs and the back, middle (firewall side) spark plug tube was filled with oil!! Got most of the oil out, replaced spark plug ( old plug had no signs of oil exposure) and put in new plugs. I rechecked today and that same tube is filling up with oil again. I've driven about 100 miles since I noticed this problem and the oil level is about half way up the spark plug. Anyone have any idea where the heck this oil is coming from? It has to be splashing into the tube or slowly leaking in from somewhere. No other tubes have oil in them..
Thanks for any info
97 nissan maxima se
Long story short..
Last month I changed out sparkplugs.. No problem. Unfortunately I tried to get by the cheap way and bought the new plugs at AutoZone for $3 a piece. I noticed and drop in performance and decided to drop some cash on OEM plugs from the dealer (ok I know I should have just got them from the beginning). Anyway, I went to put in the new plugs and the back, middle (firewall side) spark plug tube was filled with oil!! Got most of the oil out, replaced spark plug ( old plug had no signs of oil exposure) and put in new plugs. I rechecked today and that same tube is filling up with oil again. I've driven about 100 miles since I noticed this problem and the oil level is about half way up the spark plug. Anyone have any idea where the heck this oil is coming from? It has to be splashing into the tube or slowly leaking in from somewhere. No other tubes have oil in them..
Thanks for any info
97 nissan maxima se
Last month I changed out sparkplugs.. No problem. Unfortunately I tried to get by the cheap way and bought the new plugs at AutoZone for $3 a piece. I noticed and drop in performance and decided to drop some cash on OEM plugs from the dealer (ok I know I should have just got them from the beginning). Anyway, I went to put in the new plugs and the back, middle (firewall side) spark plug tube was filled with oil!! Got most of the oil out, replaced spark plug ( old plug had no signs of oil exposure) and put in new plugs. I rechecked today and that same tube is filling up with oil again. I've driven about 100 miles since I noticed this problem and the oil level is about half way up the spark plug. Anyone have any idea where the heck this oil is coming from? It has to be splashing into the tube or slowly leaking in from somewhere. No other tubes have oil in them..
Thanks for any info
97 nissan maxima se
I can now post my own thread, but wondered if i am still allowed to ask a question in hear to avoid an entire thread? I noticied a milky color on my oil cap, hopefully from little driving time, but now it changed to an orange milky substance?? Could a cold engine that has been revved crack cylinder block etc.

I believed him to mean "lower cost than OEM from a dealership," though.
really, it depends on what gasket set he needs. you know, like heads, engine rebuild, oil pan, whatever....
all i can know of is google, or courtesy nissan....
we dont answer your kind

seriously, the question needs to be asked in the 4th gen maxima forum, sorry.



