internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

Money talks, and BS walks.
Which one you doin'?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

think AC/DC.

but it's gonna be about a month before that tranny is available for purchase.

teamshultz

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the advice guys. I've been workin' my *** off this week, so I'll test your theories this weekend and let you know the results. I'm leaning towards the wheels being messed up as causing the vibration. Tire pressure was off a good bit on all tires and I have three different types of tires. Putting new tires on this weekend also.

New glitch though: I just did some surgery on my shifter. I made a DIY short throw shifter by heating up the stock shifter in the oven and sliding the pivot ball up the shaft. While putting it back on my car (I haven't tried all that hard. I spent about 10 minutes this evening messing with it but the cold ran me back inside) I can't seem to get the two pieces that press the bearings (above and below the ball) together to meet back up. No matter how hard I press, they just won't come together. The bearings come together fine, but the metal plates above and below aren't cooperating. I can't understand what's forcing them apart. Any ideas?

amator40

Must replace motor in 90. Got a line on good motor out of 88. Conflicting info and techs that were 6 years old when car was new has me a little confused. A visual inspection brought me to conclude that I can after swapping I/E manifolds, oil pan, motor mount, add oil filter mount, and probably other, small items, it would work. Can anyone tell me if I'm on the right track? I've really got to get this car back on the road. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
amator40@yahoo.com

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

got a quick question. ive got a '92 maxima thats been through it all (all 400,000km of its life with no major repairs), and a few days ago i tried to do a stupid tight squeeze move and i never made it and bit a curb at about 50 km/h. i think snow took alot of impact but the car felt it. car is absolutely fine, nothing broke, but my RPM gauge is done for. it stays at 0, but occasionally it will twitch like crazy and go from 0-8 a few dozen times then stop. it ran good for a few minutes yesterday then went to 0. it ran fine before i bit the curb

its the automatic version so the RPM isnt a huge deal but i wouldnt mind getting it going again, any way to repair the RPM gauge without taking alot apart? or is it a lost cause?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

well i'm guessing that the sensor is still fine... the car would run like *** (especially a VE... if your intake pipe goes in front of the engine, it's a VG, and if it goes behind the engine, it's a VE) if the sensor broke. so it's probably just the gauge. you can (as noted in the "Caped and Pearl's cluster thread") just swap another tachometer gauge in there and leave the rest of your cluster as-is. 92-94 will match your style properly (whether white or black). a 89-91 will either show the wrong redline (white) or will have a different typeface (black).

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

sensor is fine, car still rides fine. thanks for the info, i'll swap for another tachometer

killaklownspaintball

Ok guys i have been outta here for a little bit . And once again i come with a little Question.


How do you put a fuel pump in a 92 maxima.
I've heard so much stuff im already confused (as the tank may have to be vacuum out or something like that ) please explain if i can do this on my own or if this vacuum thing is real and has to be done by a shop.
If i can do it explain how as if I were a three year old no fancy car talk to make this as simple as possible.Pictures will be greatly appreciated. please help i did order the fuel pump but dont know where is located on the car.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

pump removal is uber easy.
pull the back seat out, there is a metal plate in the middle. pull that off, you have access to the pump.
no vacuum stuff to worry about.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

--> http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...fuel-pump.html

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

one last question

can you switch out the rear speakers in a '92? mine worked, but they werent the best so i removed them (looks like they werent meant to be removed, it was hard) but i got them out and replaced them with some aftermarkets i picked up for $5. reconnected everything and it was a no-go. i thought maybe it was the new speakers since they were $5. a few days ago i bought some expensive **** new speakers, wired them up, and still nothing.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

you have the bose system. you can not just replace the speakers.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

dang, what would i have to do?

dude504

I have a 2001 maxima and when im driving the rpm will jump from 1 to 3 then back down to 1 and the car jerks. My acceleration could be smoother also. Can any1 help me does my maf need to be replaced or is it deeper than that.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

there's a noobie thread in the 2000-2003 section.. that's where this post belongs

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

a. buy new bose amps and bose speakers
b. replace H/U and speakers

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

dang, that sucks. my '92 is too near the end of its life to put more money like that into (399,958km today, should hit the scary 400,000 tomorrow). next car will either be a skyline or more likely a '99 maxima (or another 92 if i can find a mint one) and i'll keep my speakers for then. thanks for the info

worst part is when i took out my stock speakers i trashed them right away. ive still got the front speakers and subwoofer in the trunk so its not a total loss. anyways, thanks for the info

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

buy a new head unit, put it in the car, enjoy until you need to get rid of it.

(a skyline, you say? is that wishful thinking?)

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

i already got a head unit (deck) installed thats aftermarket, i needed a new one to wire my subs so i got a JVC

a skyline would have been as much as a maxima, i found 2 skylines with 150,000km this month for only $5000 right hand drive, full body kit, everything, no problems. one was even a automatic. i paid about $1700 for my maxima, $1000 in audio, $500 in other stuff, $1000 in brake work (i hit a fresh cement speed bump on road work and wrecked my brakes) so that adds up to about $4200, and the skylines were even OBO

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

****, I wonder how much it would cost to get one exported to own here....

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

just buy one someone else already imported and decided to sell a few years later.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

yeah, buying one someone imported then wants to sell later is easier

A couple weeks ago i found a sick supra that was 2002 i think, and it was freshly imported from japan and was a full on ricer. it was like $15,000 though, and not a nissan

PMAX08

so i ordered some LED lights to go behind my gauges, the ones on the thread in the main page there, anyways, i havent been able to find a good replacement walkthrough anyone got a link to one or have some time to explain? thx

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

http://www.geocities.com/craigbraceg...ock/clock.html

step 1-4, then there's 4 screws holding the gauge cluster in place. 3 harness clips to unhook from the back... then the 194 lights are in the larger reddish sockets.

PMAX08

awesome, thanks

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

gotta ask one last question

on 92's (and probably other year models) theres a switch near the shifter that says power and comfort. never figured out what they were for, and a few weeks ago i flipped open the owners manual and it says that power is used for aggressive driving and goes into higher RPM's. ive been wanting to try the power mode, but is it hard on a older '92 with 400,000km?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

power mode shifts at a higher rpm, yes. it doesn't affect how hard the tranny shifts, it simply changes the rpm that the tranny will shift at, for a given RPM. that matters because in city driving and such, you won't shift as much, and the car will downshift with less throttle input, both of which are easier on the tranny.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

sweet. pretty much all i do is city driving, so the power mode is easier on the tranny? if it is im gonna have to test the power mode out now

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

yes, i've seen it recommended as a longevity measure. Internetautomar did it on his, nc90gxe is doing it on his too ever since it was rebuilt. if you get a freshly rebuilt tranny i'd also advise taking a page from nc90gxe's book and changing the tranny fluid every 3rd oil change.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the help. i took it for a spin on the power mode and its way nicer than the regular mode, think i'll stick with it unless i get out on the highway which would be rare

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

AH HA!
if you already have an aftermarket H/U then all you need to do is wire around the amps at each speaker.
Very easy to do.
at each amp there is a 4 wire connector , it has 2 thick and 2 thinner wires. connect the 2 thinner wires to your speaker and viola' you just bypassed the amp and you are now running your speakers off your H/U
somewhere I may have described it in more detail. Though it has been a couple of years since I did it.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

awesome! killed 2 birds with one stone, got the power mode going and new speakers wont go to waste

Infam0usMax

Sup peeps? One question and I need to know if its a problem... ok im trying to replace my headlight not the bulbs but the whole thing and the white **** ur suppose to turn does nothing how and I suppose to take it off?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

you don't have to do anything with the white ****. that's an aiming thingy. just unbolt the bracket from the car, and leave the bracket on the old headlight. the new headlight should come with its own bracket anyhow

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

i actually was just going to ask something like this. my ultrawhite bulbs came today, do you just pull the copper bracket to get the headlight cover off?

Pearl93VE

iTrader: (14)

just bulb replacement is done from the back of the headlight. On the rear of the headlight, there is a grey bulb support bracket with wires going to them, you'll need to spin the bracket (I believe counter clockwise) until it unclips, pull the headlight bulb out of the assembly and unclip the headlight and replace.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

sweet, i'll swap them tomorrow in daylight. thanks

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

copper??? cover? what are you trying to do? remove the assembly or put bulbs in? the bulbs on 3rd gens are the easiest to change of any car i've ever worked on... pull the harness, twist yoke, old bulb out, new bulb in, put yoke back, put harness back. i'd bet a dollar that i could change both of my bulbs in 30 seconds or less.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

yep, just trying to switch the bulbs. the guy who had my car before me had the same ones as always and ive never switched them yet, theyre really weak and its time for new ones

ive never switched a bulb before. lol. my headlights have a copper bracket over the headlights plastic cover thats on tight, i thought you removed that but its there good.

anyways, i'll go out with a flashlight now and see if i can find the harness

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

take a pic or two.... i have no idea what copper bracket you're talking about