Is this what your mechanic is saying, or did you see it yourself?

Have you looked at the two side by side?

The calipers should all be identical. Are you sure it's from a Maxima? 4th gen?

 

i saw it for myself, my mechanic showed me. is there a reason it didn't fit?

i saw my friend pull it off the parts car, came from a 98.

 

Pics? sounds like your friend may have had an 'upgraded' caliper

 

This is going to sound silly, but does it matter which side you pull and use? Like if I pulled the caliper from the right side of a car can I use it on the left side of the car I am putting it on?

Because it might be that you accidentally took the caliper from the wrong side or the caliper is just plain old weird

 

The weatherstrip that goes around the inside of the door frame on my 99 Max is starting to disintegrate. Who knows, why, all the other doors are fine.

Is there a good source anyone can recommend for a replacement?

 

sounds like the caliper from the 98 was an "aftermarket" unit.

 

Which door?

Have you tried Nissan? One would think that they would tend to be a good source...

Or have you checked the classifieds?

Is there a reason it didn't fit? Yes, it's either the wrong part or it was installed incorrectly.

Again, did you look at them side by side? Have you tried using the torque member from your friends car?

 

Even so, it would've had to bolt up to the '98, no?

All of the rear calipers should be interchangeable, so unless his aftermarket unit uses a different bolt pattern and also came with the torque member...

 

The bolt pattern for caliper to torque member should be the same, IIRC. Of course if you put one on the wrong side, the bleeder would be facing the wrong direction and you'd likely have issues with the parking brake cable.

 

Ok, so my struts on my 96 maxxy r done....like the ride of the car is horrible n it makes me not even want to the drive car...I been lookin for sum coilovers but dun't wanna buy new ones if any1 is sellin theirs please contact me asap

 

Posting your number on a public forum in the first place is just a bad idea.

Second, this is for questions about 4th gens, not trying to buy 4th gen parts.

Look in the classifieds, search eBay, craigslist, etc.

 

yea i been thinking about it all day...anyway too late.....already have companies n old grlfriends botherin me lol.....iite

 

Guys edit your posts, don't let your number get into the wrong hands it could lead to some seriously trouble or inconveniences down the road for you or the future owner of that number.

 

I know not of what you speak

 

Just got o2 sensor code so i changed the o2 sensor. Should i change the other two as well? Bosch says that changing o2 sensor can save 10% on gas but not sure weather to believe since they sell the sensors. Don't mind changing just want to know if its worthwhile or if i should just wait until they go bad again.

 

I need some help.

I just cranked the car up this morning. It started skipping.

The cel light says code 77, rear o2 sensor.

Would the o2 sensor cause engine to skip?

The car shakes, but it does drive. It goes in and out at random times, but mostly stays skipping.

UPDATE: Just checked codes after first reset, just 55, which i guess is the normal code. So no 77 code now, but it still skips; engine shakes, especially in drive. But the shake is still there in park, so I guess I can rule out the tranny.

I was guessing a coil going, but no codes?!

 

You mean knocking? Rear O2 sensor shouldn't cause anything to occur in ur car. You prob have a dead cylinder from either a bad plug or coil pack.

try unpluggin each coil pack while the engine is running. If you unplug one and it doesn't affect how the engine is running then there is they culprit

 

I let the car sit a few minutes, come back out to crank, and it wasn't doing it.

But after a few minutes, it started it again.

 

So when it is misfiring, have you narrowed down which cylinder it is yet?

As O2 sensors age, they can get lazy, and not report the proper readings yet still not throw a code. If they're original and you've got the cash (and have somewhat poor MPG) then it may be worth it, yes.

There's no point in changing the rear unless it's bad, as it doesn't affect MPG.

 

Not yet. The car stopped doing it.

The only thing that happened just before it started doing this was:

I took some hydrogen peroxide, and poured it into the vents between the bottom of the windshield and hood(on the outside), to get rid of a little mildew smell hopefully. I wouldn't have thought any electronic components would get peroxide on them because that vent gets rained in anyways.

 

I have a '99 Maxima. When you shift into gear from park or nuetral the car jumps with a large clunk. I know not much about font wheel drive. In an older car I would assume motor mounts or universal joints. However like I said I am new to front wheel drive.

Any help would be appreciated

 

Have you checked out the motor mounts yet?

 

Sorry for barging in, but I have a burning question haha
A while ago we were talking in a thread about a person who had trouble programming their key remote and there was this piece of equipment with a antenna sticking out that I didn't know what to call or its purpose and so I have some pictures and I was wondering if you could help me identify it.



And here is where this piece is supposed to be connected to:


And sorry I didn't know what to call it and its purpose and so I didn't know what to type up for the search haha

 

Looks to be an antenna for a remote start.

Is it a little black 3 or 4 pin connector, with a flat telephone style wire? Probably a DEI unit.

 

No i dont really know how. I assume a slight rev of the engine with foot on the break.

 

You could do it like that, yes.

Obviously it must be in gear.

 

Ok, so I have searched about this but have got no info on what is happening to my car. Washed the engine bay the other day, i covered up all the fuse box's but not the alternator. After washing it and leting it dry I start up the car and battery light and brake light are on, so I know that points to the alternator so i decided to keep the car running for a while with all the accesories on(stereo, ac, lights...) and the car still has not died. I have taken the car out for over 200km and the lights are still on but car is still going. The battery is an old battery that has died on me many times from the last time my alt died so dont think the battery is just strong. Now i used an air pressure to spray the alt and the alt connector to make sure there is no water left in it. I have a feeling I may have messed up a sensor or something that triggers those 2 lights. So now I am just wondering how can I get rid of these lights since my alt is fine(or seems to be fine). I have started my car several times and drove alot with my music on and the ac blowing. Can anyone help? Cheers

 

Really? Haha
I bought the car this way and didn't know it had a remote start, at first I thought it was some sort of technology that came stock but I guess the old owner did some work on the car and was nice enough to NOT include the remotes and such haha

 

It might be your battery but check ur idler pulley and the voltage of ur car while running. If voltage is around 14V chargin system should be fine

 

hi guys
it's been a week since my car had the h&r springs installed. after three days, everytime I
do a narrow turn my car makes a noise coming out from the struts. i believe it's the strut bar. so, do I need to replace the bar? or what else could it be?
I've searched in the forum and I haven't found any answer
thank you in advance,
jhonny

 

Follow the wire back down, it'll likely lead you to the remote start/alarm's 'brain', unless it's been removed.

Why do you think it's the strut bar? Unless it's been flipped upside down and is hitting the engine when you're on the gas, it can't really make any noises.

Did you replace the strut mount bearings while you were in there? That's likely your problem.

Have you checked to make sure it's providing adequate power? Check the voltage at the battery while idling, it should be around 14 volts.

Check the FSM, EL-35 has a nice diagnostics flowchart for this situation.

 

i think it's the strut bar because every time i turn, either when the car's not moving or is moving, it makes this noise. i talked with my mechanic and he agreed with me. no, i did not replace the strut mount bearing. also, it seems that the noise it's close to the suspension and tires

 

That still doesn't make any sense.

The strut bar does not move when you turn the wheel. Nor when you accelerate, decelerate, or do barrel rolls in midair.

Well, have you removed the strut bar and gone for a drive yet? It takes 5 minutes to remove (not even), and it's easier than waiting on replies here.

 

ok. could it be anything else other than what you just said before?

 

It could be several things in the front end, but the strut mount bearings are most likely.

 

do you have any idea how much it could cost?

 

Have you even tried to price it out yet?

It depends on where you get it from, what manufacturer, what region, sales/coupons/etc, who does it, how much they charge an hour, how many hours they charge to do it.

Look for prices yourself, that's the only way to get accurate pricing. Then call up whoever does your work, ask them.

 

ok thanks

 

I have a quick question. My 1997 maxima se does not have the low end power that it should. When I floor it from a dead stop, i can't even get it to squeak the tires. Anyone have any idea what the problem could be? It does show a code for the knock sensor if that may have something to do wich it. Thanks!

 

Replace the KS, first off.

Judging power by being able to spin the tires is a completely inaccurate method.