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Old 02-26-2009 | 10:48 AM
  #2761  
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Originally Posted by plaf713
well im a newb here just wanted to introduce myself, bought a 99 5spd. Im not sure if its an se or a gle since it doesnt say anywhere on the car, haha. Just dropping it to say hi
have the same car.what you should do is get the vin # and call your local dealer pretending you need say a set of brake pads they will ask for your vin# then you can ask if the parts are for an SE OR GLE like pretending you want to make sure before buying. however i know the gle has the GLE logo visible
Old 02-26-2009 | 10:58 AM
  #2762  
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Originally Posted by metalheart80s
have the same car.what you should do is get the vin # and call your local dealer pretending you need say a set of brake pads they will ask for your vin# then you can ask if the parts are for an SE OR GLE like pretending you want to make sure before buying. however i know the gle has the GLE logo visible
There's an easier way. If you have white faced gauges, you have an SE. There are other indicators, but IMO this is the dead giveaway.
Old 02-26-2009 | 11:17 AM
  #2763  
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Hello everybody! i drive a 99 SE 5SP all stock and have a question.i notice that whenever i shift from third to fourth and fourth to fifth the car jerks for like a second or tow also lacks power in these gears. However low gears are pretty strong specially 2nd.the car has 106 k miles.the original owner(i'm second) had the clutch replaced at the dealership at 99k miles.It drives pretty good exept for that annoying detail, also my gas mileage is kind of poor only 22mpg highway.

any help will be greatly aprecciated

god day :_)
Old 02-26-2009 | 11:18 AM
  #2764  
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Originally Posted by The Wizard
There's an easier way. If you have white faced gauges, you have an SE. There are other indicators, but IMO this is the dead giveaway.
AMEN TO THAT!
Old 02-26-2009 | 12:57 PM
  #2765  
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Originally Posted by ticcoqualla
Whats going on fellow orgers? There is a leak coming from this pan that's located on the right front passenger side. I circled the location ( near one of the bolts) of where there is a 15-20 second drip. Fluids levels are good--Car drives fine.
Have you tried tightening up the bolts yet? If not and you're worried about it, then drop the pan and put a new gasket on.
Old 02-26-2009 | 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by metalheart80s
have the same car.what you should do is get the vin # and call your local dealer pretending you need say a set of brake pads they will ask for your vin# then you can ask if the parts are for an SE OR GLE like pretending you want to make sure before buying. however i know the gle has the GLE logo visible
They likely won't ask for your VIN for an A32. Even if they did, nothing in FAST says anything about trim for brake pads, as all A32s use the same pads, regardless of year/trim/trans.

What you could do, is just read the stickies. It's clearly explained there how to determine trim levels.
Old 02-26-2009 | 01:06 PM
  #2767  
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Originally Posted by metalheart80s
Hello everybody! i drive a 99 SE 5SP all stock and have a question.i notice that whenever i shift from third to fourth and fourth to fifth the car jerks for like a second or tow also lacks power in these gears. However low gears are pretty strong specially 2nd.the car has 106 k miles.the original owner(i'm second) had the clutch replaced at the dealership at 99k miles.It drives pretty good exept for that annoying detail, also my gas mileage is kind of poor only 22mpg highway.

any help will be greatly aprecciated

god day :_)
For the gas mileage, do a full tuneup and search the org, every possible issue has been covered for MPG problems.

Lacks power in 3/4/5? When's the last time you did any basic maintenance?
When it jerks during shifting, are the RPMs hanging while you shift?
Old 02-26-2009 | 02:36 PM
  #2768  
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Update:

Getting Front strut plates replaced with Moog plates and bearings.
Getting Monroe struts for the front.
Replacing PS hoses AND PS pump.
Getting an alignment.

$874 total with labor included.
Old 02-26-2009 | 03:27 PM
  #2769  
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Hi. New problem/question. '98 Max.

I park the car, turn it off, get out. I hear a fairly loud hum coming from the rear, driver side, behind the wheel where it appears some of the fuel system stuff is (not exactly sure what it is - fuel pump?). Lasts for awhile.

If I open the gas cap, there is a rush of air and the noise stops.

This has been happening consistently for several months and just recently it seems to be getting louder.

Do you think I need a new gas cap? Or, perhaps it is a pressure leak somewhere? Any one experience this before?

Thanks in advance. I'd love to benefit from your experience!
Old 02-26-2009 | 04:21 PM
  #2770  
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Quick question guys - my buddy who was putting the harmonic balancer on my 99se can't get the car started (lights on, starter turns, no start) - he also replaced the sparkplugs with ngk plat (is it really true you don't have to gap them??) and changed air filter. He called me and pulled a spark plug that was wet (gas), sounds like no spark or gapping needed or is there a trick to seating the wires on the plugs?

I told him to pull the ignition fuse and blow out the cylenders (assuming the engine will crank with it pulled) and will wait for any other suggestions here...

Also - he said the battery clamp broke, but is using a vice grip till we get that replaced, but I think it should still start if the starter is running.
Old 02-26-2009 | 05:00 PM
  #2771  
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Originally Posted by pmohr
They likely won't ask for your VIN for an A32. Even if they did, nothing in FAST says anything about trim for brake pads, as all A32s use the same pads, regardless of year/trim/trans.

What you could do, is just read the stickies. It's clearly explained there how to determine trim levels.
thank you.matter of fact i did last nite when i first try to post replies. it explains everything in detail very useful. as for the dealership asking 'bout the #vin here in austin,texas there are 3 nissan dealers,i've called all of them and the first thing they do if you want to order parts is ask for the vin #, same as online store(that is if you want to get OEM parts) .

makes sense since that way they ensure you get the right part for your specific car, remember they all are basicaly the same but differ in some detail(color) for example wheter or not come with manual or automatic a/c controls,ext.

but thanks for replying though
Old 02-26-2009 | 05:07 PM
  #2772  
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Originally Posted by pmohr
For the gas mileage, do a full tuneup and search the org, every possible issue has been covered for MPG problems.

Lacks power in 3/4/5? When's the last time you did any basic maintenance?
When it jerks during shifting, are the RPMs hanging while you shift?
thank you.the tune up is up to date:-) .only use OEM parts and like i mentioned the car was regularly serviced at the dealership by the origal owner. thats the main reason i bought it.is in really good shape for a 10 yr old car.

a friend who owns an auto shop mentioned it could be a problem with the fuel system management since it only occur during upshifting into high gears 3-4 & 4-5th third is matter of fact very strong.

as for the rpms i have not paid attention to that detail. could you please explain what should i look for ?? i try most of the time to rev the engine at 3500-4000 rpms before i clutch it seems to reduce the problem but one can still feel the engine lagging.
Old 02-26-2009 | 06:18 PM
  #2773  
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Originally Posted by Leo_Koneval
Hello I have a burning question I copied my post from another thread I was wondering if this actually does affect the start of your car.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

"Yeah my car is experiencing some of the more minor issues, like after it starts the RPM would all of a sudden drop and then go back up in the cold.

I would really love some input on this but I discovered that after you turn your key to ACC where all the lights are on, and then turn the key very slowly to START the car will start a lot faster compared to turning it fast. When I experimented one day and turned it extra slow the engine seemed like it flooded or something and would not start, and it took several tries before it started again, and since then I abandoned messing with the key. But does turning the key from ACC to start differently actually affect how your car starts?"

Umm... does anyone have any idea on this? Or am I just talking nonesense, which I am pretty sure I am
Old 02-26-2009 | 06:39 PM
  #2774  
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Originally Posted by Leo_Koneval
Umm... does anyone have any idea on this? Or am I just talking nonesense, which I am pretty sure I am
No, it shouldn't affect how your car starts in the least. The only difference you'll find in a properly working system is that pausing in ACC for the first start in the morning will let it start a little easier, rather than just turning the key all the way immediately.
Old 02-26-2009 | 06:41 PM
  #2775  
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Originally Posted by metalheart80s
thank you.the tune up is up to date:-) .only use OEM parts and like i mentioned the car was regularly serviced at the dealership by the origal owner. thats the main reason i bought it.is in really good shape for a 10 yr old car.

a friend who owns an auto shop mentioned it could be a problem with the fuel system management since it only occur during upshifting into high gears 3-4 & 4-5th third is matter of fact very strong.

as for the rpms i have not paid attention to that detail. could you please explain what should i look for ?? i try most of the time to rev the engine at 3500-4000 rpms before i clutch it seems to reduce the problem but one can still feel the engine lagging.
If you clutch in and the RPMs hang where they were for a second, and you release the clutch too quickly you'll feel a bit of a 'tug', it'll feel like it wants to jump forward for a second.
Old 02-26-2009 | 07:44 PM
  #2776  
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Originally Posted by OzarkSE
Quick question guys - my buddy who was putting the harmonic balancer on my 99se can't get the car started (lights on, starter turns, no start) - he also replaced the sparkplugs with ngk plat (is it really true you don't have to gap them??) and changed air filter. He called me and pulled a spark plug that was wet (gas), sounds like no spark or gapping needed or is there a trick to seating the wires on the plugs?

I told him to pull the ignition fuse and blow out the cylenders (assuming the engine will crank with it pulled) and will wait for any other suggestions here...

Also - he said the battery clamp broke, but is using a vice grip till we get that replaced, but I think it should still start if the starter is running.
BTW - we pulled one of the plugs and laid it on the block - no spark. After changing the harmonic balancer, spark plugs, and air filter - any ideas why there'd be no spark? The + battery terminal is very shoddy, but attached enough to get the starter to turn the engine.
Old 02-26-2009 | 07:53 PM
  #2777  
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Originally Posted by OzarkSE
BTW - we pulled one of the plugs and laid it on the block - no spark. After changing the harmonic balancer, spark plugs, and air filter - any ideas why there'd be no spark? The + battery terminal is very shoddy, but attached enough to get the starter to turn the engine.
Aftermarket or stock pulley? UDP?

Most likely he either didn't plug the CKPS REF back in, it got damaged, or you got a VQ35 UDP (no timing ring).

Old 02-26-2009 | 10:28 PM
  #2778  
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would a bent lower control arm cause a thudding while going down the road? it only does it between 20 and 45 mph. any ideas what else it could be?
Old 02-26-2009 | 10:41 PM
  #2779  
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when the heat is on in my car theres a heavy smell of gas, and only the heat...i have a feeling that its something to due with a lose seal on the gas tank but when i open the hood theres the heavy gas smell around the area where the belts are and the fuel filter is on the other side so i really dont know...if you guys have any idea about what it might really be cause ive herd like 50 different things...any help would be great cause im getting sick of smelling gas all the time
Old 02-27-2009 | 05:18 AM
  #2780  
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hey guys, i have a 97 Maxima SE AT. On acassion when i come out to start my car itll start up but then almost die (RPMs drop to pratically 0) then itll kick back up and idle normally. Sometime it wont even seem to fire and i tap the gas pedal and itll work fire up and itll be fine. It only casuses a problem when first starting the car, drive great still. Anyone had this problem before or know how to fix it? I think it might be something with the fuel system.... i just put in some techtron. Thanks guys
Old 02-27-2009 | 07:03 AM
  #2781  
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Originally Posted by DBrames
hey guys, i have a 97 Maxima SE AT. On acassion when i come out to start my car itll start up but then almost die (RPMs drop to pratically 0) then itll kick back up and idle normally. Sometime it wont even seem to fire and i tap the gas pedal and itll work fire up and itll be fine. It only casuses a problem when first starting the car, drive great still. Anyone had this problem before or know how to fix it? I think it might be something with the fuel system.... i just put in some techtron. Thanks guys
Does it have any other idling issues, or just that cold start? When's the last time you cleaned the TB and IACV?
Old 02-27-2009 | 07:27 AM
  #2782  
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Originally Posted by DBrames
hey guys, i have a 97 Maxima SE AT. On acassion when i come out to start my car itll start up but then almost die (RPMs drop to pratically 0) then itll kick back up and idle normally. Sometime it wont even seem to fire and i tap the gas pedal and itll work fire up and itll be fine. It only casuses a problem when first starting the car, drive great still. Anyone had this problem before or know how to fix it? I think it might be something with the fuel system.... i just put in some techtron. Thanks guys
Do you notice how your car is parked? Is the nose up? If I park on an incline and leave my car there for 24 hours or so it does the same thing. Fuel draining backwards maybe. If its happening to you on a flat surface and not after having left your car for a day or two undriven, it could be tb or iacv as pmohr suggests.
Old 02-27-2009 | 07:52 AM
  #2783  
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Originally Posted by The Wizard
There's an easier way. If you have white faced gauges, you have an SE. There are other indicators, but IMO this is the dead giveaway.
my gauges are blueish, i also have a spoiler if that means anything haha
Old 02-27-2009 | 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by plaf713
my gauges are blueish, i also have a spoiler if that means anything haha
Did you check the stickies to determine trim level?
Old 02-27-2009 | 12:10 PM
  #2785  
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Hey everyone, I have a 97 GLE and I am in the middle of attempting to remove the A/C clutch disc from the compressor to replace the bearing using the instructions given on a maintenance thread. I'm unable to remove the disc. I was going to get a puller, but is there a certain kind, or is it just whatever fits?
Old 02-27-2009 | 03:13 PM
  #2786  
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Originally Posted by pmohr
Did you check the stickies to determine trim level?

no i figured i would post here to get my post count above 15, ya dig? And I do have white gauges, thanks for the help everyone
Old 02-27-2009 | 04:24 PM
  #2787  
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A few things , summer is coming and I have A LOT to do to my car if anyone could recommend me places in CANADA , that I can get parts from it would be appreciated. Just good ol Nissan parts.

-I need springs / struts ( I wanna drop the car about 1.5 inches or so) , I would like a smooth ride as well.
-Stronger Brakes
-A new exhaust line , front to back
-New Headlights and fog lights also bulbs



I cant see ANYTHING with my current lights , good thing I live in the well lit city


- I want to take the saw blades off when summer comes around , what is a decent rim size / tire profile?

I wouldn't mind some rims like that , and some slim tires


Thanks in advance ( yes I'm a total noob )...also whats the best way to clean my dirty a$$ engine bay.

Last edited by Maxterror; 02-27-2009 at 04:26 PM.
Old 02-27-2009 | 05:39 PM
  #2788  
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Soo uhhh, during what I figured would be a non-destructive venture in replacing my KS following a variety of instructions which didnt require me to rip off the upper intake manifold, I figured itd be simple. First of all, I guess I need different tools since my socket couldnt seem to properly sit into the bolt itself, and I figure next Ill give a shot with a ratchet, but besides that I now have a car that refuses to start. I turn the key and it tries and tries, but fails. Im now getting the codes of 0304(God damn knock sensor), 0705(Which I had previously, but didnt cause me any problems), 1005 and 0709. Any ideas folks?

Last edited by nekromansur; 02-27-2009 at 05:52 PM.
Old 02-27-2009 | 06:18 PM
  #2789  
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I have a 1996 Nissan Maxima. Recently, I've noticed my front speakers making an occasional & at random times a static sound while the music is playing which makes the music stop for a few seconds at a time (like as if the speaker was skipping). I know it's not my cd/taple player since I just got that replaced w/ a factory model 1-2yrs ago by the Nissan dealership. I have a Bose stereo system.

I'm not sure if it's the speaker or something else, but I lived in places that had potholes and ran over my share of them. Which sometimes if they are bad enough, it makes the player stop for a moment. Does anyone know what may be the issue w/ my speaker or if I can just "ride it out"? i just dont want it to get any worse by just "forcing" it to play (& breaking it for good) and not turning it off when it has that noise.

I don't turn up my bass really high or loud as to damage it either, but any help advice would be great.
Old 02-27-2009 | 09:48 PM
  #2790  
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I had the guy run my obdII reader on it and it pulled a code p0335, iirc, cps problem - so you're right... but it looks like there's no charge getting to the terminal (per factory manual test) when ignition is 'on'. I suspect he whacked the harness when taking the crankshaft bolt off when changing the harmonic balancer... but it looks like a real *$)(% to fix it.

Originally Posted by pmohr
Aftermarket or stock pulley? UDP?

Most likely he either didn't plug the CKPS REF back in, it got damaged, or you got a VQ35 UDP (no timing ring).

Old 02-27-2009 | 10:00 PM
  #2791  
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Originally Posted by pmohr
Does it have any other idling issues, or just that cold start? When's the last time you cleaned the TB and IACV?
well i bought the car used about 6 months a year ago... i doubt its ever been cleaned unless theyve done it during regular maitence. i will definatly try cleaning it and see how that goes. thanks

Originally Posted by rxm6
Do you notice how your car is parked? Is the nose up? If I park on an incline and leave my car there for 24 hours or so it does the same thing. Fuel draining backwards maybe. If its happening to you on a flat surface and not after having left your car for a day or two undriven, it could be tb or iacv as pmohr suggests.
i park on a very slight incline, not enough to make a difference i dont think, ill give the TB and IACV a good cleaning and see how that goes, thanks
Old 02-28-2009 | 02:35 AM
  #2792  
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1 of my hub rings came off while changing a tire and it was broke.

How hard are these to change?
How important are they(will i be ok driving a few days without it)?
What are signs that they are going bad?

Last edited by Mr.A32ftw; 02-28-2009 at 03:05 AM.
Old 02-28-2009 | 07:17 AM
  #2793  
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Originally Posted by Jeffp
Hi. New problem/question. '98 Max.

I park the car, turn it off, get out. I hear a fairly loud hum coming from the rear, driver side, behind the wheel where it appears some of the fuel system stuff is (not exactly sure what it is - fuel pump?). Lasts for awhile.

If I open the gas cap, there is a rush of air and the noise stops.

This has been happening consistently for several months and just recently it seems to be getting louder.

Do you think I need a new gas cap? Or, perhaps it is a pressure leak somewhere? Any one experience this before?

Thanks in advance. I'd love to benefit from your experience!
Anyone else ever hear this noise?
Old 02-28-2009 | 12:56 PM
  #2794  
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Originally Posted by maXspeed96se
would a bent lower control arm cause a thudding while going down the road? it only does it between 20 and 45 mph. any ideas what else it could be?
is this just a bent control arm or something else?
Old 02-28-2009 | 01:49 PM
  #2795  
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Originally Posted by maXspeed96se
is this just a bent control arm or something else?
Doesn't sound like an LCA to me, but I'm no suspension guy. Have you not checked out the front end yet?
Old 02-28-2009 | 02:36 PM
  #2796  
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Originally Posted by pmohr
Doesn't sound like an LCA to me, but I'm no suspension guy. Have you not checked out the front end yet?
yeah we checked it out and the shock is blown and the LCA is bent. that is all we saw that was wrong.
Old 02-28-2009 | 09:54 PM
  #2797  
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alright maxterror some good places to get struts would have to be fleetfarm or just go online like ebay, i have done the same thing with the struts and tires and brakes...a good size tire would have to be 18in that way the tire size doesnt change but only the rim gets bigger so that way if you go back the the old ones you dont have to recalibrate your spedometer(sorry i suck at spelling)...17s really arnt to bad as well that what have, american racing has some very nice rims that would fit and as for the brakes...just go to your auto parts store and the should have some there and as for the engine bay...get some engine degreaser and that should work fine
Old 02-28-2009 | 09:58 PM
  #2798  
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Originally Posted by wcs1885
I have a 1996 Nissan Maxima. Recently, I've noticed my front speakers making an occasional & at random times a static sound while the music is playing which makes the music stop for a few seconds at a time (like as if the speaker was skipping). I know it's not my cd/taple player since I just got that replaced w/ a factory model 1-2yrs ago by the Nissan dealership. I have a Bose stereo system.

I'm not sure if it's the speaker or something else, but I lived in places that had potholes and ran over my share of them. Which sometimes if they are bad enough, it makes the player stop for a moment. Does anyone know what may be the issue w/ my speaker or if I can just "ride it out"? i just dont want it to get any worse by just "forcing" it to play (& breaking it for good) and not turning it off when it has that noise.

I don't turn up my bass really high or loud as to damage it either, but any help advice would be great.
well from working on cars that do this what i know is that its more than likely a loose wire on one of your speakers because ive seen this problem before and it ends up being loose wiring...what it does, is sends way to much resistance back to the recever and it messes with how much power goes to where which gives it that static sound...first try and take them off and see if there is any loose wiring because thats really the most common problem but if not let me know and ill see what i can do
Old 02-28-2009 | 10:04 PM
  #2799  
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Originally Posted by Jeffp
Hi. New problem/question. '98 Max.

I park the car, turn it off, get out. I hear a fairly loud hum coming from the rear, driver side, behind the wheel where it appears some of the fuel system stuff is (not exactly sure what it is - fuel pump?). Lasts for awhile.

If I open the gas cap, there is a rush of air and the noise stops.

This has been happening consistently for several months and just recently it seems to be getting louder.

Do you think I need a new gas cap? Or, perhaps it is a pressure leak somewhere? Any one experience this before?

Thanks in advance. I'd love to benefit from your experience!

what you could try to do is see if any of the breather tubes that would go into your gas take to provide air so that way there not to much of a problem with vaccume when your car is on...see if any of those are pluged and it also could be something in your fuel pump as well...maby a bearing goin bad or something
Old 02-28-2009 | 10:12 PM
  #2800  
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Newbie - Just Registered
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 7
Originally Posted by Kuhn_man
well from working on cars that do this what i know is that its more than likely a loose wire on one of your speakers because ive seen this problem before and it ends up being loose wiring...what it does, is sends way to much resistance back to the recever and it messes with how much power goes to where which gives it that static sound...first try and take them off and see if there is any loose wiring because thats really the most common problem but if not let me know and ill see what i can do
How do I do that? I'm not real car savvy. I only know how to change my oil & check some basic stuff under the hood. So what would I need to do to check on the speakers?


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