H-Keck, not the caliper
pmohr, it looks a lot like 44151
it is a thin piece of metal, same size as rotor, it goes on the rotor and is usually a protector....if you check all your brakes, you will see it covering the back of pad

 

The 'back of pad'? You're not really making any sense there.

Are you talking about a dust shield that goes on the front, between the wheel and rotor?

Better yet, can you just take a picture?

 

im sure he means that dust shield, id just tighten it down or take it off

 

okay i have spent litterally hours on this site and I have a question I wonder if q45 sfront seats can fit in a 95 max? and if so what if any are the mods? does anyone know?

 

yes, it is the dust shield....I will try to put it back on, if not, I'll just remove it...it won't damage my brakes right?

 

Not in and of themselves, no. It would just allow debris to come into contact with the rotor a lot easier.

It's likely that it's never been tried. Most likely you'd just need to modify the existing rails, or swap the cushions.

 

shouldn't, its really just an extra

 

well when I look at the bottom they seem to have the same mounting locations but getting them at the local junk yard I don't know if i can take them back if they don't fit but hey for $30 a seat it might be worth it

 

I am having issues with a new tein basic installation, the camber is off, the car veers on uneven roads. I had a shop do it and they dropped it low, it sits about 25" from wheel well in front, and 26" in the rear, I am also getting rubbing noise. If it is raised should that help the alignment?

 

The alignment will be 'better' if you raise it a touch, say .1250 - .250. This is due to the CV joints being @ a negative angle.

 

Mass ignore FTL

 

i am from puerto rico and i want to know where i can find the cam adapters to do my swap or if anyone can tell me the dimensions to make it myself..thanks

 

So again, you didn't search?

Contact Stephen Max, watch the classifieds.

Or search.

http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...imensions.html
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/2...imensions.html

 

just replaced my thermostat and flushed the radiator. i ran the engine with the radiator cap off to release any air. the coolant levels are good. took a road trip from kentucky to florida. during the drive the temp guage fluctuated quite a bit (half way to 3/4 then back to half way. is this a sign of an air pocket?

 

Could be.

For how long did you bleed the system?

Do you get heat at idle, or just when it's revved up?

Under what conditions would the temp gauge rise or fall?

 

while bleeding the system i let car completely warm up with heat at full blast. probably five minutes after engine was warm. i believe i'm getting heat at idle. had the car on cruise at 65-75mph most the way down. it almost seemed like while going uphill the temp guage went up and then coming back downhill it came back down. not completely sure about that though. seemed a little random at times. thanks!

 

could you give me the proper procedure for bleeding the system?

 

Correction Q45 seats does fit in a maxima (just to let anyone know) the front mounting locations are the same but the rear are off by an inch. So it looks like I will take the cushions

 

sunroof adjustment? replaced glass but now not flush with the roof? I added shims and it hits hard after I let it down? any thoughts?

 

Thanks alot! Also didn't help that the mechanic didn't install the mounts that came with the teins on the front coilovers along with the stock plastic pieces that fits into them. Appreciate the help.

 

Got the starter changed and everything looked good.
Then i started and drove home. Next time I started the car and turned the stearing, the servo locked up. Now it hears and acts a little funny.

Suggestions, or do I have to take it back to the garage..?

 

How many quarts of transmission oil does my 1999 Maxima SE-L MANUAL transmission take? What viscosity does the manual recommend? I'm putting royal purple max gear in, I don't think it has ever been changed. Thanks guys.

 

Spec is 4.5-4.8 liters, as both search and most likely the stickies can show.

75w90 or 80w90 will work just fine. Make sure it's GL4, though.

 

Thank you pmohr

 

Okay so i have a 96 se and i am just starting to build it up sowly i am just getting some exterior parts for it right now, and i ran into a problem with the one peice headlights that i got, i was hopeing you can tell me how to fix the issue please, the lights fit fine in the whole accept one part, right where the light hits the fender where the turn signal is there is nothing there to hold the light in place so it just kinda hangs there with a gap, i did get these two peices of black l shaped metal parts with the headlights which i am guessing belong somewhere in there but i just cant figure out where, if you now what i mean and i was hope you can tell me what you did to make it fit.

This may be a dumb question but i have been on this site and many others to find the answer but i just cant find it so i thought i would post it up here.

If you can please let me know how to make these things fit, i really want to get them installed before i go looking for wheels next week. Thanks for your time.

Cheers

 

is the oil sender unit the same thing as the oil pressure switch?? i have a leak and i'm trying to find out what can be the cause and was wondering if these two are the same. Since they are the easiest and it seems that i am leaking from the oil pressure switch and its a cheap easy fix. But i can't find where the oil sender unit is located. Can't even find it on the fsm

 

R34s or Cefiros? With the bracket, I assume you mean R34s. You just need to give it a good look and try the bracket every way you can, you'll eventually figure it out.

If you mean Cefiros, that's pretty much just how they fit.

For R34:
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ml#post4469869
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...4-fitment.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...t-problem.html

Correct.

 

Hi I have a important question today I was cleaning my battery studs and while I was bolting on the positive terminal I accidentally dropped my wrench and it landed on the already connected negative terminal while still hooked on the positive terminal. Sparks flew everywhere for like 2 seconds then I quickly grabbed the wrench and pushed it off.

I turned on the engine, checked the radio, headlights, and ect. Everything worked. But is there any damage that could have happened? Like internally in the engine? Or electronically? Thankyou.

 

Yes you could have fried the ECU, and possibly some sensors. If you get a CEL or any problems you know where to start. I doubt you did anyhting though. And I wouldn't grab the wrench..lol good way to get zapped.

 

Yeah haha, it just slipped right out of my hands when I was tightening the positive terminal, it was almost like that final destination movie

But I always wear gloves that are rubber on the side you touch things with when I work on a car. Maybe thats why I am still here

 

Would anyone know or have an estimate of what kind of horsepower a 96 with no muffler would put out?

 

A 96? I believe a 1997 that is stock would put out 190 HP, so yours could be higher or lower but in the general area if its stock

 

190.5 BHP, assuming you have no other mods, and your engine has been maintained to factory spec. But you'll sound and be regarded as an idiot/ricer.

Why would you want to take the muffler off? If you're looking to change out the exhaust with more free flowing components, just get a Y.

Or do a search, seriously.

This is exactly why you do the positive first and the negative last. There's absolutely no reason other than if you're swinging the wrench/ratchet around while tightening up the positive terminal, you won't ground out against anything other than the negative battery post.

 

Oh! Sorry I have always read how people say take off the negative terminal first then positive. So I assumed that it was the same thing when putting it back.

So now I know. When taking off the terminals it goes negative then positive and when putting it on you go positive then negative.

I know its a extremely simple thing, but I don't know anything about electricity or how the grounding and all that works. Thanks for helping me out haha

 

You remove the negative first for the same exact reason.

Basically, just remember this: if you're wrenching on the positive terminal, the negative should already be off.

 

Oh I understand now when I was putting on the postive and when the wrench landed on the already connected negative so it made a circuit with no ground so sparks flew as a result.

So the idea is that if I were to drop the wrench it would land on a not connected terminal creating a grounded circuit that would not spark.

Thanks Pmohr, if it weren't for you I would have probably done the same thing over again.

i'm sure I got the examples wrong, but as long as the general golden rule is followed I should be okay, gotcha!

 

How do I know if a wheel will fit my stock A32 without rubbing anywhere, wat are the required specs? More specifically, do 17" or 18" rims from a G35/350z fit seamlessly?
Thanks in advance and apologies if this has been covered.

 

Hey guys

I recently got a 98 Infiniti I30 and it ran fine at first but now i've been having some problems and not sure what it is.

What first started happening is the car would have trouble starting. It'll start right up no problem sometimes while others it has to crank for a few seconds till she'll fire.

Battery was replaced back in November 08 along with the fuel filter.
I just swapped the plugs with some new NGK's (i'm pretty positive they've never been replaced and were originals with 160k miles). Seemed to make it run better but still having problems.

I've also noticed it has a very slight stutter which is more noticable when going up hills. I'm leaning more towards it being spark related.
If if lay into it and give it full throttle it pulls fine and has no hesitation or stutter which i find wierd. But with casual driving and just maintain a constant speed you can feel a slight hiccup.

I'm thinking the starting and stuttering are related because to me it seems that if it tries to fire on whichever cylinder is having problems then that'll cause the starting issues also.
I've also thought it could possibly be an injector but you'd think it'd have fuel problems when I went full throttle and would stutter but it doesn't she seems to pull just fine.

There's no SES light on or anything.
So what should I look into?

Thanks

 

Here you go....

http://forums.maxima.org/tires-wheel...s-maximas.html

 

Did you search?

Had you searched, you would've found the sticky that describes Z33/V35 wheel fitment.

As the first post of this very thread says, this thread is not a substitute for searching.

Low speed or acceleration misfires, especially when they happen stopped at a light, are most often weak coils. Search on how to test them.

Did you do any work before all of this started happening?