5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread

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Dec 22, 2007 | 01:19 PM
  #4361  
P0133 and P0430
A few weeks ago I had P0174 and P0174, along with 'stumbling' when cold. After reading through posts here, I replaced the MAF.

The stumbling went away, but the SES stayed on. It did not clear after many, many trips.

Last weekend I checkedbooked an oil and sparkplug change at the dealership (yeah yeah... I know. I'm trying to sell the car soon though). They said it wasn't throwing any codes and they cleared the SES.

Two trips later, SES came back on. Got the codes pulled today and it's P0133 and P0430.
I couldn't find any threads relating to getting these two codes together, nor if they could come from replacing the MAF and not flashing the ECM. My guess is bad O2 sensor, but wanted to ask if anyone had this particular combo and what the solution was.

2001, BTW
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Dec 22, 2007 | 03:28 PM
  #4362  
Quote: A few weeks ago I had P0174 and P0174, along with 'stumbling' when cold. After reading through posts here, I replaced the MAF.

The stumbling went away, but the SES stayed on. It did not clear after many, many trips.

Last weekend I checkedbooked an oil and sparkplug change at the dealership (yeah yeah... I know. I'm trying to sell the car soon though). They said it wasn't throwing any codes and they cleared the SES.

Two trips later, SES came back on. Got the codes pulled today and it's P0133 and P0430.
I couldn't find any threads relating to getting these two codes together, nor if they could come from replacing the MAF and not flashing the ECM. My guess is bad O2 sensor, but wanted to ask if anyone had this particular combo and what the solution was.

2001, BTW

IIRC P0430 is o2 sensor.
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Dec 22, 2007 | 03:31 PM
  #4363  
Quote: IIRC o2 sensor.
Now I've seen conflicting things... It's a non-cali '01. Does it have 3 or 4 sensors? And is it just the first one that needs to be replaced?
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Dec 22, 2007 | 03:31 PM
  #4364  
Quote: Now I've seen conflicting things... It's a non-cali '01. Does it have 3 or 4 sensors? And is it just the first one that needs to be replaced?
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...4&postcount=38
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Dec 22, 2007 | 03:32 PM
  #4365  
Quote: Now I've seen conflicting things... It's a non-cali '01. Does it have 3 or 4 sensors? And is it just the first one that needs to be replaced?
Cali = 4
Fed = 3
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Dec 22, 2007 | 03:38 PM
  #4366  
Quote: http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...4&postcount=38
Thanks for the find! I'll replace that soon and cross my fingers.
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Dec 22, 2007 | 06:09 PM
  #4367  
i have some general questions: how do you know if yout throttle position sensor is bad?
whats a knock sensor , what it do?
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Dec 22, 2007 | 06:40 PM
  #4368  
Quote: i have some general questions: how do you know if yout throttle position sensor is bad?
whats a knock sensor , what it do?
tps should throw a code

knock sensor detects knock, and pulls timing until the knock stops.
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Dec 22, 2007 | 08:19 PM
  #4369  
Quote: i have some general questions: how do you know if yout throttle position sensor is bad?
whats a knock sensor , what it do?
Search.


Took two seconds on google.
http://search.aol.com/aol/search?inv...=what+is+knock

From the results: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_knocking
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Dec 22, 2007 | 09:19 PM
  #4370  
Just got my car back from having the clutch replaced. I was in a time crunch and got reamed accordingly, $1600 for clutch and dual-mass flywheel. I know, that's pretty bad, but the worst is that my car threw a P0021 code (intake valve timing controller, bank 2) a couple of hours ago. It idles just slightly rough, almost diesels when turning off. Could they have just unplugged something??? This is getting a little ridiculous seeing as I've had the car for 1.5 weeks now. Help!!!
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Dec 22, 2007 | 09:21 PM
  #4371  
BTW, I cleared the code and drove it around for a bit, it hasn't resurfaced (I know some codes have to happen on two consecutive trips, so I went for a couple drives). The idle and shutdown issues are still there though...
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Dec 23, 2007 | 04:44 AM
  #4372  
How can you determine if your car is Cali spec by the VIN #?
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Dec 23, 2007 | 07:02 AM
  #4373  
2001 maxima se ABS sensor
Quote: I went to the dearler today. They read the ECU and found out the right rear ABS sensor is bad even though the ABS light doesn't come on at all. According to the service guy the sensor is off if either of the sensors are bad. He thinks the ABS sensor is acting like a light connection, so this could be the problem. The dearler wants me to install a new sensor which costs $150 plus labor. I was searching on one website that I could either clean the sensor or buy a new one. Does anyone know if this is easy to replace? Where is the exact location of right rear ABS sensor? Do I need a special tool? Anybody have any good how to sites with pictures, could you send me a link?

Thanks in advance.
Can anybody answer above? Anyone?
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Dec 23, 2007 | 08:38 AM
  #4374  
small problem
i was attempting to change my dome light...didnt go so well...the metal peice that the bulb makes contact with wont go back in tight so theres no bulb in it....thats not the real problem though.....since i tried to replace it my keyless entry wont work....the open/close door button on the side of the door wont work either and the rear defroster doesnt work....im thinking that i may have blown a fuse...but what fuse will affect all of those things...thanks for any help
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Dec 23, 2007 | 08:55 AM
  #4375  
Well you don't list your year in your options, please do that, it will help us out a ton.

I'd start with #12 & #13 though...........

Just look at the fuse panel cover, start off with the ones that the abbreviations might stand for interior or illumination or interior illumination or anything else related to what doesn't work.
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Dec 23, 2007 | 09:01 AM
  #4376  
Quote: Can anybody answer above? Anyone?

Does the light come on at all or is there a problem with the abs or tcs system? The light needs to be on in order to read the codes, with the dealers consult tool or manually via consult port & jumper wire.

The sensors can bi a biotch, requiring hammering out. Yes you can make sure there is not metal shavings on the sensor tip or tons of build-up in/on the sensor ring (teeth attached to wheel that the stationary sensor reads)

To replace the sensor it's easiest to remove the hub (Make sure to properly tourqe wheel bearings afterwards!) and hammer it out from the inside. You can download the fsm from phatg20.net or vq35de.com/esm for more info.
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Dec 23, 2007 | 09:01 AM
  #4377  
sorry bout that
its a 2000 cali spec gle....everything died after i attempted the dome light....also is there a write up on dome light LED replacement....ive searched with no luck...thanks
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Dec 23, 2007 | 02:38 PM
  #4378  
Went to change my oil on my 2002 Maxima SE and discovered a lot of oil splatter. I checked and the filter did not seem like it is leaking and the drain plug was tight. Has anyone ran into this before, could it be the gasket around the oil pan?
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Dec 23, 2007 | 09:32 PM
  #4379  
Quote: Went to change my oil on my 2002 Maxima SE and discovered a lot of oil splatter. I checked and the filter did not seem like it is leaking and the drain plug was tight. Has anyone ran into this before, could it be the gasket around the oil pan?
Clean the oil splatter up and then check the area a few days later. That should at least eliminate the possibility you simply drove through some oil on the road, plus give you a better idea of where it is coming from should you have a leak somewhere.
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Dec 24, 2007 | 10:13 AM
  #4380  
After doing a bit of research, i decided that i want to drop my 02 Se with eibachs. Been hearing a lot of talk about spring/shock combos, and was wondering if its OK to install the eibachs without upgrading the shocks. I think Housecor (think thats the name) said that aftermarket springs would cause additional wear, and my Max has 72xxx miles on it, but hasnt been driven too hard. Anyone know if this would be ok?
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Dec 24, 2007 | 11:00 AM
  #4381  
It would be OK, but it is not recommended. ^^^
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Dec 24, 2007 | 11:10 AM
  #4382  
Im guessing its not recommended because of the wear to the shocks? Or does it have to do wth ride quality/handling? Eibachs website says its fine, although they do "recommend" purchasing their own shock kits, as expected. Also, while i'm at it, what are the downsides of purchasing a cheap set of new rims as opposed to some of the more expensive ones? Will they dent easily? I just don't see why i would spend an extra 1 or 2 hundred bucks if i like the way the cheap ones look.
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Dec 24, 2007 | 11:19 AM
  #4383  
Quote: Im guessing its not recommended because of the wear to the shocks? Or does it have to do wth ride quality/handling? Eibachs website says its fine, although they do "recommend" purchasing their own shock kits, as expected. Also, while i'm at it, what are the downsides of purchasing a cheap set of new rims as opposed to some of the more expensive ones? Will they dent easily? I just don't see why i would spend an extra 1 or 2 hundred bucks if i like the way the cheap ones look.
First off, yes, the 'wear and tear' is what I was referring to.

Next, explain 'cheap' wheels. Entirely. (material, brand, size, etc)
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Dec 24, 2007 | 11:21 AM
  #4384  
Quote: Im guessing its not recommended because of the wear to the shocks? Or does it have to do wth ride quality/handling? Eibachs website says its fine, although they do "recommend" purchasing their own shock kits, as expected. Also, while i'm at it, what are the downsides of purchasing a cheap set of new rims as opposed to some of the more expensive ones? Will they dent easily? I just don't see why i would spend an extra 1 or 2 hundred bucks if i like the way the cheap ones look.
Do you mean cheap as in, cheap quality, or price? You can find some really nice wheels that are OEM like 350Z wheels at a good price, but you have to keep looking through the classifieds on this and other websites.

Refer to the Tires and Wheels section and read the stickies.
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Dec 24, 2007 | 11:22 AM
  #4385  
Quote: First off, yes, the 'wear and tear' is what I was referring to.

Next, explain 'cheap' wheels. Entirely. (material, brand, size, etc)
Damn. You always get your post in before me.
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Dec 24, 2007 | 11:24 AM
  #4386  
Cheap wheels tend to be heavier and have a less durable finish.
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Dec 24, 2007 | 11:30 AM
  #4387  
I meant cheap in price. Went to tirerack.com, searched for wheels for my car, and came up with ones that ranged from 150 each to like 900 each. The more expensive ones are from brands like BBS and made of materials like forged magnesium or w/e, and are way out of my price range. Im not too concerned about weight, just wondering if they would be of a substantially worse quality. Ill post brands/size soon as i get back to site
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Dec 24, 2007 | 11:34 AM
  #4388  
Heavy wheels will affect MPG’s, obviously. Stock units are actually fairly heavy.

I paid $275/wheel for my lightweight wheels and they improved my MPG by 12-15%.
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Dec 24, 2007 | 11:40 AM
  #4389  
Maybe ill just look around for used G35/350Z wheels, im sure i could get they would be of decent quality and relatively cheap. Thanks for the help.
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Dec 24, 2007 | 11:40 AM
  #4390  
Quote: Heavy wheels will affect MPG’s, obviously. Stock units are actually fairly heavy.

I paid $275/wheel for my lightweight wheels and they improved my MPG by 12-15%.
Heavy wheels also make you slower. By choosing lighter wheels than stock, you may free up some weight from the driveline.
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Dec 24, 2007 | 11:42 AM
  #4391  
Not only feel, they actually make you slower.
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Dec 24, 2007 | 11:43 AM
  #4392  
Quote: Maybe ill just look around for used G35/350Z wheels, im sure i could get they would be of decent quality and relatively cheap. Thanks for the help.
I saw a set of 350Z wheels go for ~$300 in PA (pick up only). They had the sensors in them that can be sold, and you end up paying very little for a set of 4 wheels if you sell the sensors. Of course those wheels sold quickly. Look around, and read the stickies in the Tires and Wheel section.
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Dec 24, 2007 | 12:12 PM
  #4393  
Quote: Maybe ill just look around for used G35/350Z wheels, im sure i could get they would be of decent quality and relatively cheap. Thanks for the help.
Look in Auto Trader, or call around to the tire stores to see what they have in the way of factory take-offs.
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Dec 24, 2007 | 04:58 PM
  #4394  
answer to your question
I have 245 45 18s and I have plenty of space (my car is not lowered and I have 1-1.5 inches of space.
I think with 19s you could get the 235 35 19s on no problem and even the 40s. As far as the 45s, they will not look as good and will give you less handling perfomance than the 35 or 40 series tires. Get the
Quote: what's the tallest tire you can fit with 19' wheels on a 5th Gen (I35)?
I know the recommended tire size is 235-35-19 but can you fit a 235-40-19 or 235-45-19?
Has anyone done it? Thanks!
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Dec 24, 2007 | 09:18 PM
  #4395  
2 quick questions that should be easily answered. first one is on an 03 how much should i expect to pay for a stillen classic lip panted and installed?

2nd is when going w/ a HID fog light kit what kit do i need for the 03? h3, h3c mini h3?
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Dec 25, 2007 | 03:42 PM
  #4396  
Whats the difference between a berk and a frankencar intake? They seem to me like theyre pretty much the same.
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Dec 25, 2007 | 05:09 PM
  #4397  
Quote: Whats the difference between a berk and a frankencar intake? They seem to me like theyre pretty much the same.
they are pretty much the same.
biggest difference, frankencar isnt made any more.
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Dec 25, 2007 | 06:58 PM
  #4398  
Quote: they are pretty much the same.
biggest difference, frankencar isnt made any more.
And they are a rare commodity (for those that like them).
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Dec 25, 2007 | 07:45 PM
  #4399  
is a 6 speed transmission from an 02 3.5L capable of being bolted into an 01 3.0L (originally a 4 speed auto) without major mods? how much should i expect to spend on a professional doing the swap?

thanks in advance
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Dec 25, 2007 | 08:08 PM
  #4400  
Quote: is a 6 speed transmission from an 02 3.5L capable of being bolted into an 01 3.0L (originally a 4 speed auto) without major mods? how much should i expect to spend on a professional doing the swap?

thanks in advance
This is the newbie thread, not the advanced newbie thread.

Heres a link to an AT to 6 speed conversion in a fourth gen. Hope that helps.
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