I would STRONGLY suggest removing the headlights when wet sanding. YOu are oging to be working in extremely close quaters with sandpaper. TO me it is not worth the risk of perhaps coming into contact withthe paint and perhaps ruining the clearcoat or even worst.

The removal process will take you no less then 2 mintures for both headlights and install is the same time. Nissan did a very good good on ease of removal with this perticular part. It is literalily two bolts on the top then you pull straight on the housing. It will seem like you are going to break the light put you have to pull pretty hard because there is a retaining clip (not sure if it is correct terminology) holding it in besuides the two 10mm bolts on top. A word of caution though you want to pull the headlights straight out and NOT from the top where the bolts are.


On the laminx question. As I stated there are many products out there to do the trick. That one might work amazing I personally have never used it. I would start in a small area in the corner and test it. YOu just want to make sure the sealant is clear after you spent all that time to clear the headlights.

 

Does anyone know the answer to the shifter/ashtray bezel removal question I had? For referrerence this is a picture of the piece I am inquiring about. Remember it is the bezel not the sihft plate or shift assembly just the trim piece.

 

What a lil beyotch that parts guy is. Two suggestions:
1. Talk to your sales guy to see if he can get it for you.
or
2. Call Nissan North America to see if they can help you out.

***BONUS SUGGESTION****
Call the parts department again when that a-hole isn't there. Surely there aren't two ****** in the same parts department...

 

what was the question again? Are you trying to remove it?

 

This is EASY! Apply e-brake and shift car into N or lower. Take a philips screw driver and remove the one screw in the ashtray. Next get a flathead screw driver and wedge it inbetween bezel and car. It will pop out. Put a cloth around the tip of the screwdriver to rpevent scratching. Don't be scared, Pop that damn thing up and pull it out. Unclip electrical plugs when removed.

 

I am new to forum and have tried to find answer to my question. My 1993 Max SE daily driver just blew up, and my girl wants a 5th Gen Maxima to replace it. I know the 3.0 is a good motor, but have limited info on the 3.5. I have found some areas where ther is oil burning issues and a few others, but should that be a deterrent? How much difference in powere and torque is there? We have found some good deals on 01's and 02's and 03's

 

Also, the shifter and chrome shifter panel will stay put. The rubber gasket and everything else will pull out.

 

Welcome to the .org! DO NOT let any issues you see in these forums deter you from getting a Max. People come here to ask questions regarding a problem they are having, so do not be alarmed. All cars have problems once in awhile. Though I cannot answer anything about the 3.5, the 3.0 in my ride has been extremely reliable with no problems at all (67k miles). (knocks on wood)

 

BigBirney-

I just got an 01 and really love it, that being said, I wish I would have held out and gotten an 02 or 03, most of the mods I want to do are done on the 5.5 gen. Oh well, i am thoroughly happy with my Maxima so far.

 

Ok, here comes another question: I'm interesting in swapping out my stock A/T shift **** for a 6th gen Maxima shift **** or an Infiniti ****. Are the threads the same size or do I need some kind of adapter?

 

Like Vaporhead said there are problems with all cars. If you want a daily driver that you can buy and never think about again then I'd go get a new Hyundai. Those things come with 10years/100k warranty.

Find out what your girl likes about the 5th gen Max. If it's luxury, power, and a superior overall appeal that no other car in it's class can match, then yeah - get a 5th gen.

 

Its not about not having to worry about it. I had just read about those specific issues with the 3.5. I have a mid to low 13 second daily driver with many mods, but for her its different. Her brother has a 2000 Max and she likes it a lot. The 3.5 idea would be more for me, I would do some light mods, but not too much.

 

I bought a brand new OEM 6-speed **** for my '03 from Dave B (see FAQ's) for a mere $55 + S&H

 

For her purposes, an 00 or 01 would probably be fine. She doesn't need the extra power, and the insurance is considerably lower on the 00-01 because of the smaller engine displacement and lack of HIDs (due to theft concerns in certain areas). The VQ30 is more or less bulletproof. The VQ35 is still a great motor, but there does seem to be a slightly higher incidence of problems with it.

 

precisely what mods can you do with a 5.5 that you can't do with a 5.0? there are actually more mods available for the VQ30 than the VQ35, all in all...especially if you want to go FI...

 

Eh, the parts guy is always there, at least every time I've gone. So let me ask this, anyone on here have an early (very early) 2000 SE they could look at the remote fob and tell me the FCC #? Surely they couldn't have more than one within a few months of production date. Mine actually says 6/'99 on the door.

BTW, got the Murano washer nozzles on order. Wohoo!

 

Thanks for the info.

 

I have a question. I'm a NewB and I don't know much about cars but I do know Maximas are fun 2 drive this is my second (5th gen) one blk on blk '01 w/ 128,000 on it, anyways I'm having a starting issue. When I start the car it starts (vroooooom) and then goes off. Only way for it to stay on is to hit the gas pedal and it will idle ruffly like its about to go off but it comes back to life. This problem only happens when it has been sitting for a few hours. After I drive it and turn it off and start it back up it starts just fine. I replaced the fuel pump and screen, a friend of mines cleaned the throttle body and I got the spark plugs replaced, ngk Iridiums. The problem still exist and it is very annoying. Somebody, anybody please help. Oh yeah and the check engine light is not on and I have not gotten the codes read cause auto zone says the engine light has to be on. Please help me if you can.

 

Have you gotten your battery and alternator tested? Your battery may be running down. If they are good, it maybe your MAF. Disconnect your MAF and see if it stays running. Obvisouly do not drive with the MAF disco'd, but see if it stays running.

 

ATTENTION: Moderators will ban you if you use Why do they even have this smiley if you get banned for using it?

They can ban this account/IP, it don't matter, I have unlimited IP spoofing through proxy servers. They will permanently ban your account if you create a additional account to ask a mod why you were banned in the first place. The majority of the moderators are probably teenie boppers on a power trip. So, for you mods who ban people to get your rocks off, and you are also



This thread will prolly be deleted, but I will be back to post again.

 

You are an idiot, and nobody cares if you have proxy servers. Come back as many times as you like, but you will always be a moron.

 

I am getting a little tired of the rattling that comes from the rear deck of my Max from the Bose sub. While I tried stuffing the gaps with card board to dampen the rattling it's just doesn't cut it.

So I figured maybe I would just disconnect it and install a sub of my own. Anyone know of any subwoofer kits that can run off of the Bose line that is there? I would much rather not have to pull everything apart, run lines fro mthe front, etc... in other words, as simple as it can possibly get.

Thanks.

 

Hey guys,
here is a strange question. I have full collision coverege on my 02SE. Is it neccessary to tell my insur. co. about mods (intake, cattback, leather seats, grill)?
They did ask about aftermarket parts.
Installed Weapon R secret intake 2 days ago. So far so good. Love the sound. Did not have a chance to take it to highway and did not notice any changes in performance.
Cattback is next. Can't make up my mind about wheels: 19' or 20'? Need input on this one...
thanks.

 

Bose runs on 2ohm signals, while almsot all other brands run on 4ohm.

The rattle is not the Bose sub, though, it's the rear deck. There is a fix for it:

read: http://www.innerbean.com/housecor/bose_deck_fix.html

 

if you want the parts covered by your insurance, some companies require that you list them. Mine doesn't require me to, but they still cover my aftermarket stuff (including HIDs).

As to wheels.....18s. Definitely not 20s. They look stupid.

 

what about 19'?

 

its all about personal opinion man...I personally wouldn't put any rims bigger than 18s on my car. I think 18s look plenty big (see the left pic on my sig) and don't want to slow the car down even more with 19s......other people have different opionions. You have to do what YOU like and not worry about what other people like.

 

is there a thread talking about the fuel pressure regulator??

 

thanks. what i noticed that a lot of threads don't make any sense. yours- always do. good advice is hard to find and it is a great help.

 

My car has approximately 55,000 miles on it, and last week after
stopping at a stop sign, my check engine light came on and my car would
no longer accelerate over 2500 RPM's. Long story short, I towed the car
to my local Nissan dealer and they told me there were many faults, but
the main code seemed to indicate a faulty Accelerator Position Sensor.

The dealer then went on to tell me that this part is not available
anywhere in the US and shows up as backordered from the manufacturer in
Japan and will take a minimum of 8-12 weeks to get. They said my only
other option was to put in a used part, from which they could locate 1
from a car with 80K miles, and the price was about the same $220 versus
$240 new.


So my dilema is put a part with 80K miles use in for nearly the same
price without warranty or be without a car for several months while Nissan thinks about manufacturing the part. To me this seems to be totally unacceptable, it doesn't seem right that it would take so long to get a part for a 2003 car. Yet I called Nissan consumer affairs and they told be that the
part is not in stock and is on a manufacture backorder, meaning it has
not even been manufactured yet. Has anyone had similar problems with
Nissan and what did you do? This seems totally rediculus that it would
take months to get a faulty electrical sensor on a 2003 vehicle. Can
car manufacturers get away with not having parts available for newer
model cars?

 

Here's what I would do, others may have better answers.

1) I would find out as much as possible about this part on this forum and other sites so that you know it's function and history. Maybe it's available somewhere out there.
2) If possible get the car checked out by another reliable mechanic... your dealer might be on crack.
3) Check with junk yards, find out if they have any 03 Maximas. Might get it for cheap.
4) Get in touch with THE manager at your dealer and get him to explain again before you call Nissan and ask for the highest ranking manager you can get on the phone. The answer they gave you simply isn't acceptable by any means.

Good luck.

 

My car is behaving just like it's having the VTC problems found on 3rd gen maximas.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=491753
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=407923

On cold starts I get clacking and this morning it was down right scary (30 degrees). Sounded like my valve train was coming apart, then as it warmed up it went from heavy to light pinging and then cleared up altogether.

Other symptoms:
Before it got this bad it used to howl a little on cold starts until warmed up. Last year my starter died and was replaced. This year the new starter is beginning to grind on cold mornings like this morning. Could this be high compression left over from advanced timing when the engine was warm? Also I had some moderate pinging this summer when engine got warm so I replaced MAF sensor which seemed to help, but perhaps the cooler weather fooled me to think it got better

Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks

2000 Maxima w/110Kmiles

 

Seems more like a MAF problem. APPS is very unlikey to go out before the MAF.

 

Guys,
This one is about yellow capsules for fogs i got from hidtech: for 02-03 owners- don't take a chance getting them (i did). You better of with yellow replacement bulbs. Capsules do not fit properly into 2K2 fogs- period. They r too long for housing + taking a glass lense from housing is a major headache, baking them in the oven does not help a bit ( 00-01 housing is a lot easier to deal with and abviously a far better fit)
Just read hidtech's post- he "does not do glass!!"... wonder, why...
You might still take a chance installing but you will find that lense is sitting right on top of the capsule, touching it, which makes very difficult to put everything back together again. I actually end up cracking one of capsules and now have one fog ready to go (somewhat...) and hope that hidtech will sell me one capsule, not two.
...still overall- fit is horrible and you gonna need a lot of silicon to keep whole fog light together.

 

somebody didn't do their research

I'm not sure why you had such a problem though....several 02-03 guys have done it with no problems

 

Im a NOOB I know.... but I couldnt help but post this for those who havent done thier homework on performance filters. I havent really needed to ask any questions since all the answers are already on here, you just have to dig a little..THANKS MAXIMA.ORG

http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/2/

 

well, don't want to sound like little kid, but i did research, lots of it. there r few guys who managed to get it done but no writeups. Any how, hidtech sold me one capsule today for $20.00 shipped. What sucks, that I am only 15 min. driving from his place. I guess he does not want people to knock on his door.
It is 7th day of new intake, so far doing well.

 

Im looking at trading my 18" aftermaket wheels for a set of 06 350z 18" 5 spoke wheels, but will they fit? I ask because the 06 5 spoke wheel is a widder wheel in the back, let me know and if you have a picture of one please post it.

 

My 03' Maxima SE is making a funky rotten egg like smell, after hard acceleration. I have smelled when other Japanese cars have passed me on a 2lane. Our Maxima eats about a quart of oil per oil change, no leaks though. Any possibilites would be great, thanks.

 

Also it is time for me to flush the tranny, I called Nissan to find out wich fluid is best, they told me to buy Nissans. I have always used Mobil 1 oil in it so I found Mobil 1 ATF, but it dosn't say it works with Nissans, just many imports, Thanks for your help guys.