Duckhead

He said he had a "parts car"........ He took it out along with whatever else he wanted.

From what I read last night, it looks like this part has quite a history of going out. Not just on the maximas...

ddh052286

Hey everyone. Heres another noob. Ok, I'm a Honda guy but switched it up a little bit and just purchased me a 2000 Maxima. Anyways I know nothing about Nissan Maximas and to me, a 2000 model car is the newest I've had. Before then the newest was a 92 Honda Prelude, which is a big diff, to me. Anyhow, I noticed that the ABS light is on and stays on. It doesn't go away... Any advice on what I should check for? I already checked the fuse and it was good, so we can omit that. Thanks for any help guys!

denny_1986

iTrader: (1)

hmm. the current alarm isn't high tech at all it seems. The fob just locks/ unlocks the car and that's about it so im guessing any smart person wouldn't gut out the oem system only to replace it with a sub-par one. I think the owner just replaced the oem fob with an aftermarket fob (just an assumption). But still, i can't get the trunk to open up with the remote. I checked the prestige fob manual and it said to press the green button for 3 secs....i did that nothing happened. I tried pressing both of the buttons together....nothing happened.
Can the broken trunk release button inside affect the remote release function?
am i using the aftermarket fob wrong? so confused!

VQP0WER

Most likely a ABS sensor. You're going to have to get the ABS codes read by a diagnostics machine.

Welcome!

denny_1986

iTrader: (1)

can anyone please give me a 101 on alarm systems

I have a "prestige" keyless entry remote (it only has 2 buttons). I cant get the trunk to remote open with this remote
Is it possible that the previous owner replaced the factory remote with this aftermarket remote.....would that even work?
Or do i have an aftermarket alarm system?
sorry for the newbie qs...i'm considering buying an oem keyless entry remote but im not sure if that would make a difference...please advice!

Duckhead

A lot of the auto parts store will hook up a diagnostic tool for free. It may not be as fancy as the ones at the dealer, but it serves the same purpose.

VQP0WER

Normal OBDII scanners will not read ABS codes. Autozone type stores don't have the right ones. Actron just came out with a scanner that will read ABS codes, but try locating a place that has it is tough, and it only reads domestic manu.

http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16349

ddh052286

Ok thank guys. I work at O'Reillys and see what they have

jdm0830

Edit: also is there an upper bleeder for the 5th gen?

i still cant post a thread, so far i have searched found three threads of interests.

replaced my clutch using a clutch kit. the flywheel was resurfaced and all that good stuff associated with a clutch job.

before the clutch job, i had problem with the clutch line. the master and slave cylinder were replaced. now with the new clutch, i had a problem where the clutch engaged really high. it started to slip and wheni hit the gas(like go faster , while shifting high. just did that once) it would also slip.

so the work done to correct the problem after the clutch was put in was to adjust the pedal. now it worked INCREDIBLE for ONE day.....the thing would catch immediately and the pedal was really smooshie(i thought it was great). then as the day went on i would lose grip on the clutch. to the point that i would be letting go of the clutch pedal all the way and the car was still on(instead of stalling out). sometime i could get into the gear without even pressing the clutch. the clutch pedal also even became stiffer and pushed back.

we think the master cyclinder is leaking, but i dont see any drop in fluids. also i only saw that replacing the slave cyclinder was a possible solution. the threads i searched didnt really conclude... so any other leads i could fallow?

also real quick, the clutch kit was OEM stuff from Nappa. it was short notice buy, but o well.

Juan

MikeyBreeze LI

Does anyone know if the grill on an 02 fits the 2000-01?

IHAVEA2KMAXIMA

iTrader: (7)

no. totally different stuff

Herofmine

U have to change Bumper Cover for it! cuz' 02 max has bigger grill opening.

Biomech

Hi everyone.

I got a 2003 Maxima SE 6sp. Ever since I got it, I found that (whatever the speed) when I slightly press on the gas, It seems like I have a constant loss of power and this for as long as I keep a slight pressure on the gas. As soon as I give it some more gas, everything is fine and nothing seems to be wrong with the power. It’s also a pain when I’m to a complete stop and start in first gear. I have to give just a bit more gas than what I should which is kind of uncomfortable and annoying because of the same problem.

Anybody have an idea what it can be and what should I do?

Thanks.

kjunior

Hello guys !!
I just need a little help. I change my trunk lock because it just broke. Now, my trunk dont close completly!! The problem is if I put the lock lower the automatic open door (the button on the remote and inside the car).They have a little cable that you have to put in the lock !! I just wanna to know if they have a spring on this cable. Hope you understand my situation. Thank you for helping me !!!

Junior

alexz

does anybody know if 235 45 18 tires will fit on 2002 maxima with g35 coupe rims?

DrunkieTheBear

iTrader: (17)

yes, but the series is too large..you want 235/40/18. your speedo will be thrown off and you might rub.

denny_1986

iTrader: (1)

hey guys
are subtle shift shocks a common thing in 01 maximas? I can feel the tranny shift with a very very little pause.....is that a normal thing?

DrunkieTheBear

iTrader: (17)

Auto or manual?

How many miles?

my auto, didn't shift instant it took maybe half a second to change into gear

denny_1986

iTrader: (1)

61K automatic
did it lead to any problems later on?

DrunkieTheBear

iTrader: (17)

I ran 150k miles on that car before I sold it...never had problems and I manually shifted the car all the time

denny_1986

iTrader: (1)

phew ! that's a relief! btw, what do u mean by "manually shifted the car" u said u had an automatic transmission right?

alexz

What about 225 45 18?

Nelsito65

Check this link out; you can play around with different tire sizes:
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

alexz

thanks!

Nelsito65

Glad to help

SINNER!

Just a quick ? these are the spec for the audi a5 rims, the guy told me that they won't fit because they have a bolt pattern of 5/112 where my maxima 00 has a bolt pattern of 5/114. Now I spoke to one of the dudes from a hub cap store told me even with an adaptive Wheel spacer it wouldn't clear. Is this true and if I get the 18" will that give me the clearance I need.
P.S. it's not lowered
Help me thank you

Spec.
Wheel Manufacture and model: RadArt A5R
Wheel Diameter : 19"
Wheel Width: 8.5" Front 5.5" Rear
Wheel Offset: ET32 Front and ET32 Rear
Wheel Finish: HYPER SILVER
19x8.5J

DrunkieTheBear

iTrader: (17)

Honestly don't even try... you'll spend more money trying to make them fit then what it would've cost you to buy a set of brand new rims that will actually fit. Don't waste the time.

DrunkieTheBear

iTrader: (17)

1 2 D (OD off) D (OD on)...I could control all 4 gears the way wanted. Upshifting this way is fine, forcing down shifts this way is bad. But I say let the car shift its normal course.

dcnded

iTrader: (2)

Where can i get me one of those little top of the rear window mounted wings?

memphisballer

iTrader: (7)

paradox-systems.com

denny_1986

iTrader: (1)

driving in the snow today i noticed something weird. When i applied the breaks, the breaks seemed to push back on my foot. I mean i could feel my leg move up because of the force. Was this because of the snow (well im sure it was) but can it also be an alignment problem which was most obvious in icy conditions? I do notice a slight drift to the right if i let my steering go while driving but i dont get any vibrations while driving....so im a bit puzzled

VQP0WER

It's called Anti-Lock brakes.

scottsqcc

Hi i am new here and i am wondering if anybody has had the same problem as me. My wifes car has 152k and we have owned it since it had 56k and overall has been a great car. But now when you are driving, if you hold in the clutch for more than a few seconds it will drop the rpms down to nothing and sometimes bounce back up or sometimes it will stall which can be a little dangerous. Car has no current DTCs. It runs fine at idle and never stalls but once you get going like 30mph or above if you hold the clutch in it will stall. Plugs are new and the coils have been replaced once, so has the MAF. I have been wondering if there is some type of speed sensor involved in this problem. Any help will be greatly appreciated as i dont want to bring it to the dealer.

dcnded

iTrader: (2)

found my info !!! thanks memphisballer!!!

memphisballer

iTrader: (7)

+1. http://autorepair.about.com/od/glossary/a/def_ABS.htm

Biomech

ANYBODY???

twstdstng

iTrader: (1)

ok i am getting a code p1574 on my 02 maxima. speedo reading is off by about half and cruise control is inop. abs light comes on when moving.
i think it might be a sensor on the trans but i am not sure where it is,any suggestions? thanks in advance

Pimpus Maximus

Okay here we go...

I have a 2k Maxima SE 5speed. 135k.

For about the last 3,000 miles I've had the well documented stalling issue. It hasn't really bothered me too badly but recently it has gotten pretty bad. I've done a lot of research on this, but here's my other question.

Recently while the engine has been under load at a lower RPM (say, 5th gear at 2000 RPM). If I go WOT or close to it, the engine will rev up 500-600 RPM, then come back down and the car will actually start moving...

Question is, are the IAC and what seems like a slipping clutch related? Could the IAC cause the WOT rev-up, or do I have both an IAC and clutch problem?

If the car needs both I'm just going to trade it in, I don't feel like sinking any more money into it, but if it's just the IAC, then I'll probably take care of it.

sangmin

Driving home from Manhattan last night... little black ice on the roads, nothing that I haven't experienced before. Then my brakes start to act funny.

It was like they were dead, I was trying to brake and it felt rock hard, no give. Then it would loosen up and I could depressed the brakes but it made a weird mechanical/ electrical short circuit sound.

Brought it to the shop ASAP on the way home, the dude said it was just my ABS being activated.

Turned the car on this morning and after a little bit of driving the ABS light came on. Wondering if the sensors are busted.

Also I know how the ABS feels on my car, I can feel the pulses when its activated... but this time no pulse, just a rock hard pedal and then a weird noise afterwards.

Any thoughts? Taking it over to LI tomorrow morning to get it checked out by Jeff.


2002 Maxima SE 125K miles... just replaced suspension kyb2- hr springs

Joe081484

Just bought a 02 SE with 65k, I've put 800 miles on it in the 8 days I've had it, yesterday the SES light came on. Autozone pulled the following two codes.

P0455 - Evap leak
P1147 - 02 Max voltage not met

I've looked into what people suggest for the codes, will probably try a new gas cap first as its the cheapest solution.

But my real question is can I tell if the ECU has been reset recently, like if it was reset before I bought it with these codes then they have popped back up after some more driving. My mechanic hooked it up to a OBD II device and didn't show any codes before I bought it but I wasn't sure if it could tell if it had been reset recently. Also if I remember correctly when you go for a MA inspection you can't pass if your ECU had been recently reset to hide codes but I could be wrong.