greenmachine

iTrader: (1)

if i go ahead and buy this ecm(if the serie number match), do i have to reprogram it at nissan or just plug and play?

ThaWill

Not really a question, but I couldn't really find a relevant thread to post in. I just want to thank everyone for all the great info to be had on these forums. You helped me so much over the last couple of days in making the decision to buy an '02 SE this evening. I have a feeling I'll be hanging around quite a bit in the near future while I try and figure out all its gadgets and quirks. Anyways, thanks again!

How did you guys get so awesome? (Now it fits in the question thread )

dude504

I have a 2001 maxima and when im driving the rpm will jump from 1 to 3 then back down to 1 and the car jerks. My acceleration could be smoother also. Can any1 help me does my maf need to be replaced or is it deeper than that.

greenmachine

iTrader: (1)

not a pro but from what im experiencing here, its your mass air flow. i got the same problem and the new one is on its way!!!

Feldman

iTrader: (1)

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...10-w-pics.html

might want to give this a try before you get a new maf. by the way, any codes?

TheOnlyMax88

iTrader: (1)

Question, I wanna drop my 5th gen really bad and am lookin more into progress 2nd choice H&R because i can get them at a local store but I really dont have money for struts right now, wat should i do?

memphisballer

iTrader: (7)

That sounds like tranny problems a little.If your check engine light is on then you need to get it checked at Autozone.

memphisballer

iTrader: (7)

I would not recommend using your oem struts.check the link.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...em-struts.html

memphisballer

iTrader: (7)

most likely will have to be programmed @ dealer along with your car keys.
check this link> http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...cm-myself.html

VQ30DEK-5SP

Hi to everyone here ! Ive a 2000 SE VQ30DEK 5 speed and the car is throwing p1320 code, occasional shattering at idle when cold only. The code is primary ignition signal, and all my wiring is ok, i doubt a cold weld in the coil pack to be the problem, but no missfires can be observed via obd2 codes.

My question is : my previous car was a 1995 SE ATX VQ30DE , can i fit the VQ30DE 1995-99 coilpacks on a 2000 VQ30DEK engine. Will it clear the I.M. at the Right cylinder bank (different I.M., Plastic vs Aluminum). As anyone tried it yet ?

Thnaks, VQ30DEK-5SP.

alexz

on how much faster is 02 maxima 6sp than 02 maxima auto?

VQP0WER

For the love of God, pick a smaller picture. It's all about the driver. I've beaten 6th Gen 3.5's with my autotragic 5th gen.

If you are going head to head against someone who knows how to drive stick, then obviously the 6spd is gonna get a jump.

MaxinO2

iTrader: (1)

Ok so, this guy has a set of 350z 18" rims from an 06' model, wants $600 comes w/tires but only 45% tread in front and 15% /rear. All 4 rims have curb rash on them, a scratch or two but no bends or cracks.. is this a good deal?

amtran86

Hi to everyone. This is my "I'm new here and have a question" post. I have a 02' maxima 6spd with 98k. After returning home from another routine day at work, I parked my car in its usual spot in the garage. The next morning I try to drive to work, the car won't crank. I have had no issues prior to this. No check engine light, nothing. I thought maybe fuel system or ignition system. Checked both. I couldn't figure it out, and after a few weeks of scratching my head, I had it towed to the dealer. After several days, the dealer calls and tells me my ecm short circuited, $1750. That's a pretty hard pill to swallow. Has anyone ever had this happen to them? I guess at least I was in my own garage when it happened, but very random.

ame263m

Anyone want to sell me thier titanium rim? WTB a good condition set. let me know. thanks.

VQP0WER

We do have a section that deals with Selling/Wanted type stuff, you might want to post that there.

VQP0WER

Have you checked the obvious first, like the battery and/or starter? Can you clutch start it, meaning, get it rolling the pop the clutch while in first?

captain jack

I'll try this here. I did search but couldn't find anything. If I missed it maybe somebody can link me up. Anyway just got a 2003 GLE. Has heated seats. They won't heat up until you sit on them. I assume they are supposed to be like this. How can I bypass this? I'd like to get into the car after a brief warmup and have nice warm seats.

Thanks!

cole

um, how long/many posts do you have to make in order to start thread?

hi-tek22

iTrader: (4)

15

cole

thanks

hi-tek22

iTrader: (4)

glad to assist

NissanNewb

Hey Guys,

Recently my 2001 Nissan Maxima stalled out and I had it towed to a mechanic. He ran a basic scan and the error that popped up was P0505 (Idle air control motor circuit malfunction). He then went ahead and replaced the IACV. However, after he replaced it, the following things occured:

1) Error code P0505 still shows up.
2) SES light on (never was previously)
3) High RPMs (in P and N, it's between 2,000 and 2,500)....also, after the engine is warming for a bit, the RPMs jump back and forth rapidly between 2,000 and 2,500
4) When in drive, the RPMs settle around 1,000 but sometimes jump up ever so slightly when driving.
5) While driving and the RPMs hit around 2,000 there is hard shifting/bucking.
6) When I apply the break to come to a stop, it almost feels like it doesn't break quick enough and it seems like I have to put my foot completely down on the break.
7) When I come to a stop it again shifts/bucks hard before it comes to a stop.
8) Mileage seems to poor (more than usual).

My main concerns are:

* Is it OK to drive like this for now (2 mechanics I've talked to said it is)?
* What could be the cause/problem? I've looked on these forums and elsewhere and I have seen anything from cleaning the throttle, to replacing coils, to changing the MAF sensor (which seems to be the most popular fix), to leaks, etc. Having seen the symptoms, what could be the cause?
* Do I need to go to Nissan to have them update software?

I am going to be bringing the car within the next week to a mechanic who has many specialized computers and diagnostic machines (more than just the regular AutoZone scanners)...but I was just curious what it could be.

Also, as my screen name says, I am a newb and I really know nothing about fixing cars (except for the basic stuff), so any help that you guys could give me would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you very much for reading this.

VQP0WER

You should do the IACV relearn procedure found here:

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...00-2001-a.html

stitch

i recently bought a 00 automatic and sometime the check engine light will flash and the car is really rough till i accelerate hard then it smooths out ....anyone have any ideas ?? i also want to upgrade the performance if you know any good sites thanx

VQP0WER

Go get the check engine codes checked. Autozone type stores should be able to read it for free and assist you. What do you mean, "upgrade he performance?" If you browse these forums, you will find the answers.

Herofmine

i'm having exactly same problem with my car, same thing i got changed idle speed control valve and keep on driving on 2500 rpm after week my alternator died, if u live in brooklyn i know the place for 100$ reprograming but u need to find ecu by yourslef (i didn't fix my car yet)

memphisballer

iTrader: (7)

Dude....try www.upgrademymax.com. They have it all.

zackkaz

I just bought a 2000 GLE with the BOSE sound system, the sub has an annoying rattling noise from the car, not the sub itself. Any ways to fix this?

memphisballer

iTrader: (7)

Your answer is here> http://www.innerbean.com/housecor

Berto210

I'm planning on gettin some rotos from Irotors that are slotted and drilled... Do those need to be cut??? Need to find out before having them put on. Please PM me.

thanks!!!

nissandrvr98

iTrader: (3)

ummmmm.......you probably wouldnt feel it till you sit but they dont 'wait' till you sit down. Sometimes they arent as effective as they could be but if the switch is on...they are heating.

Stormzusmc

iTrader: (17)

why do you care as long as your a** gets warm? the seats take a couple mins to heat anyway if youre sitting on them...try a trial...sit on them bone cold and heat them up then time....then bone cold again dont sit on it and see how long they take to heat up to your liking

maybe its because where the heating elements are not close to the top of the seat.....

tappertrainman

Hello all,

I'm hoping I can get some assistance with my questions. I searched for quite some time, but didn't have luck finding an exact answer for my situation.

I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima, I purchased used a few years ago. It spent some of it's previous life in Colorado, and I bought it in San Diego.

The headlights (yes, I searched!) are as seen below. Forgive the dirty car!

Driver's Side:

Passenger Side:

I'm sure these images aren't too great, they were taken with my camera phone. Suffice to say, the headlights are not clear. However, they FEEL smooth, no pitting, scratches, etc. From a close inspection, the discoloration appears to be on the inside. I read through all the threads regarding the plastic polishing, but those don't appear to be the same as mine. I'm not sure the same techniques would apply. Can an expert comment here?

I'd like to get these clear again, whether by cleaning or purchasing new models.

Question 1: Is this something that can simply be cleaned? (It LOOKS like the yellow is on the inside, and it feels smooth to the touch on the outside).

Question 2: If not, is it reasonably easy to replace the entire headlight assembly? (I build/repair my own computers and do minor work on the car, I know my way around a screwdriver/wrench). I see various whiz-bang solutions on Ebay, and I'm willing to part with some money for a nice-looking solution, but I don't want to convert and rewire the whole headlight assembly. A drop-in replacement is what I'm looking for, but one that looks nice, and throws good light on the road, currently I think my night vision is being severely impacted by the bad coloration. So is there a decent quality aftermarket or OEM-equivalent option for the entire assembly, or should I go direct to Nissan? I don't need HID, etc. just clear housings without too much work (I would rather not bake my lights in an oven and do all that, for fear of screwing up my daily driver).

Any help you can provide will be welcome, I appreciate it.

Thanks!

Nelsito65

^^ Tappertrainman, the yellowish film is usually on the outside of the lense, I'm not sure how they can get stained from the inside. But if it is in fact on the outside, then they can be easily cleaned using any lens cleaning kit sold at most autopart stores, which involves sanding with various degrees of very fine sand paper and a final coat of polish. You can also clean them using a cleaning compound called Brasso (I purchased mine at Walmart). It is a creamy solution intended for metal, but it can be used on lens covers like yours. Be sure to mask the surrounding areas so you don't run the risk of ruining the paint. No need to replace your headlight assemblies if they are not broken. A couple of dollars for the Brasso and some elbow grease is all it takes to try it.

Stormzusmc

iTrader: (17)

cleaning should be easy as stated...if you feel the need search the 5th gen classifieds here on this forum for headlights for sale, they always are and decently priced

tappertrainman

I guess it can't hurt to try and clean a small area with the PlastX or whatever buffing solution and see if that helps. I doubt I can make it worse than it is if I'm careful.

If you run a search on Ebay for 2000 Nissan Maxima Headlights there are a number of products that come up that are described as "Angel Eyes". While the "halo" look around the bulb seems nice, are all of these junk/cheapo sets? I'd rather have quality clear original-style lamps than cruddy-looking HID-like replacements.

Most of the threads I found here are from 03 when there was a big scare about stolen lights, and 5 years can make a big difference in price and quality.

yamahariderdk

Ok, here goes..

Its a 5th Gen. When I turn the key the starter will turn over for 1 to 2 min, but engine will not kick over. Engine sounds like its trying to start but will almost "hicup". After the initial 1 to 2 min, it sounds like battery is losing power and getting weaker. Even though all interior lights work with full intensity. I then pull the key out and then try again after waiting for 30 sec and trying again which usually results in the car starting after a little more turning over. Once the car starts, it runs very strong. Only problem is engine pings when engine is under load in 5th gear when using any grade gas (93-89)

The Starter is brand new, The MAF is brand new. Fuel Pump is is brand new with cleaned out filter (all less than 5k). New Air Filter. No SES lights.

I had two bad ignition coils which I drove around with for a few hundred miles, could I have caused the plugs to go bad?

Could I have a bad 02 sensor that is still reading within spec, but at a high or low point which is causing the hard start up / bad spark plug.

When replacing the MAF I just swaped in a new one with no ecu reflash, is that ok?

Anyone have any ideas, I live in the northeast and its about 15 degress out, so I hate to be screwing around with stuff for too long. But I'm willing to try anything reccomended. Thanks in advance.

tmiggz

replacing the head lights are simple if you get an OEM replacement..as long as you don't get the angel eyes or the 02-03 ones that would require modification in the wiring...i replaced my foggy ones with the AE ones, all it is, is just two bolts on the top (quite ovb) and unplugging the turn signal and head light.. u'll feel tention behind the blinker when pulling it out but u gotta put a little bit of man power behind it cuz it's dug in there quite nice (just don't go he-man and break it lol)..

go AE if you wanna change them with out rewiring..brand new so the plastic won't be foggy and discolored

Herofmine

Over All guys My advise to anyone that owns one of these 01 maxima's must have the IACV replaced every 80,000 miles as standard maintenance or you will be buying an ecu as well.